Can't ride rigid bikes anymore.
 

For the last dozen years or so, I've almost exclusively ridden a cheapo (129 EUR / USD) full suspended MTB, on which I mounted a plushy sprung saddle and slick 42mm tires.

In anticipation of future endurance rides (or possibly even credit card touring) that I'd like to try, and because common knowledge is that a full sus MTB wouldn't be the ideal bike for that, I bought an used '90s rigid MTB to modify for the purpose.

Sure, its 52mm tires and the said plushy sprung saddle which I mounted on it, make it certainly more comfortable than un upright city bike (or a road bike), and yet the full sus MTB is noticeably more comfortable.

Infact, the asphalt where I live is definitely not in good conditions. Moreover, with the full sus I can steamroll over the many speedbumps I cross.

"Duh! Of course a full sus is more comfortable than a rigid!", you are thinking. Yeah, I know. I was just wondering if there's some of you who only rides suspended bikes, with at least a suspension fork, and maybe a sprung saddle. Especially for long distance riding. I know that almost all "advanced amateurs" cyclists ride rigid bikes even for long distance riding, and I wonder how they do it. I would probably be knackered if I'd try that.

To be blunt, they’re probably not riding $129 bikes. It makes a difference.

Actually, the 129 $ bike is the comfortable one...

Anyway, I doubt that an expensive road bike is even remotely compliant as a 129 $ full sus with a sprung saddle and wide tires, no?

Yeah, you’re right. Stick with the $129 bike.

You have no arguments so you reply with sarcasm.

Do you think the most expensive road bike on 25mm tires is even remotely compliant as a full sus with a sprung saddle and wide tires?

Yes / no.

O.P., you're missing the point. For long distance riding and touring, it's likely you're going to be more focused on efficiency than comfort. In addition, you're going to have to get into shape to push those pedals for hours on end. If you start to focus on riding (and especially pedaling) for longer times, you'll probably start developing some leg strength and endurance that'll let you tolerate a rigid bike for longer periods.

If your 129 suspended bike is working great, then I suspect you are not riding long miles. Or you are just a troll....

What is your weight and what tire pressure are you running on those 52mm tires?

Thank you for your constructive post! :)

Yeah I'm aware that more power mean less weight on saddle and hence less need for suspension.

Regarding efficiency, well that's an interesting subject. A few years ago, I remember finding several scientific studies which proved that a suspended fork is either more efficient or not less efficient than a rigid fork, even on roads (I should search for those studies again).

Also, I wonder if, below a certain level of comfort, efficiency also decreases in very long distance riding. One thing I know is I couldn't ride for hours on a rigid bike with narrow tires. Not only because I'd feel much less safe, but also (and mainly) for comfort.

I would ask what distance rides you have been doing on your full suspension mountain bike. I would also ask how well the rigid bike you bought fits you. Fit is at least as important to comfort as a cushy ride. Fitness is another factor in being able to ride long hours in comfort. In my 50+ years of riding long distances I have learned that my ability be comfortable on my bike is closely linked to how many kilometres I have done so far that year. The one thing I do know is that my full suspension $3000+ mountain bike is the last one I would choose for a 100+ km ride

No, I'm not riding long miles at the moment (I rode 30 miles a few times). What do you mean with "working great"? Efficiency, reliability, comfort?

I suspect you have a physical condition that is behind the criteria you laid out which also strikes me a difficult. I am far from an expert at endurance rides or credit card touring having done very little but you are in for a challenge if with a heavy bike doing a half century endurance ride or even carrying extra kit for credit card touring unless your showers/meals/shelters are very close.

:wtf:

If you want to do touring you can get a bike with suspension of some kind if you feel you need it. A loaded touring bike is heavy already and the addition of a few pounds for suspension shouldn't be a big deal. When I've done credit card touring (no camping) my bike weighed 55 or 60 pounds. I've ridden with guys who had bikes close to 100 pounds.

I spend a lot of time out of the saddle, particularly over anything rough, so arms and legs are the suspension. To my mind, suspension is for single track. YMMV.

Otto

How much does your full suspension bike bounce when you pedal? That bounce is wasted energy that could have been used to propel you forwards on a rigid bike. Your suspension units are easily 1kg each, so your full suspension bike is at least 2kg heavier than a rigid bike which is significant on a 15kg bike.

A lot of the rest of it is down to tire choice, riding position etc. A full suspension bike is naturally going to be more comfortable in terms of dealing with road surfaces, but it will take more work to cover a given distance, and won't be as comfortable in terms of body position over a longer ride.

I've ridden my 2002 - $100.00 - TARGET MAGNA 7spd - Aluminum Frame - Suspension Fork, Spring Seat Post - Springy Cushy Wide Seat - Upright Bars - Front Basket - Rear Rack - 26x1 3/8 tires on 100 mile FLAT SW FL roads in my 60's.
p.s. - bike has 15,000+ miles

You want to do some long rides on pavement but you bought a mountain bike for that?

Seems you'd need a road bike of either the touring flavor if you are going to be loaded with stuff or just a endurance geometry if you are going to be unloaded other than bottles and emergency kit.

Suspension can be a good thing, but cheap suspension generally is not good.

If you are serious about investing in suspension that will take the edge off and just not be an around town anchor, you’ll need to spend some money.

I’m not sure exactly what is available for very light touring, but I would think that something like a Lauf lightweight fork might be nice if you are not running front panniers.

I can’t imagine rear suspension on a touring bike, but I could see where a high quality suspension seat post like a Redshift might be nice.

In the end I suspect that you will probably opt for a lower end solution. If you can find an older softail mtb with front suspension it might work for you.

John

Rigid bikes are fine on the road because with an adequately chosen tire pressure (I run about 88-90 psi* on my road bike, anything more would be excessive) and if the bike fits you well, you've got all the suspension you need. For any potholes / speed bumps you unweigh the saddle a bit and absorb the hit by letting your body move.

Of course it's going to depend also on body weight, you probably will at least need wider tires if you are overweight to find comfort, and again - you would want to try with lower pressures and then work your way up.


*Pumps can be quite inaccurate. After calibrating mine, I found that what I thought was 105 psi was actually more like 95.
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​​​​​​2 of my friends have bikes with the Lauf fork and both are very happy with them.

Remember the Cannondale Silk Road? It had a Headshock, I think 20mm, and a suspension seatpost.

Bikepacking has become a thing for mountain bikes so bags and storage options are available.

When I ride my enduro type bike on the road I just switch on the lockouts unless it's a rough road, then I let the suspension work.

Both touring bikes I have owned had flexy steel forks and long wheelbases and could fit large tires. I used 32s for a 3000 mile tour but I have also used 23s on week long trips.
One of the Lauf guys.
https://scontent-lax3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...eA&oe=62F8C9E9

There is more than one way to skin a cat. Some are just bloodier than others.

Whats the H stand for? Lol

There's really no substitute for time and miles in the saddle. Just like any physically demanding activity, you're going to have to do it often enough, like every other day, at least, and push yourself to go faster, farther, climb harder, in order to condition yourself for the kind of rides you imagine yourself doing.
The more you do it, the more you will find that your chosen-for-comfort steed is holding you back if you're trying to do more than ride around the neighborhood at 10 mph for an hour a couple times a week.

I rode a lot as a teen, did some other stuff for a couple decades, and made a re-entry into sport about 8 years ago. I put the time into training, adding a second -hand touring "road" bike to my old MTB, then a more modern road bike as I took on longer, more challenging rides.

THe more you ride, and the more kinds of rides you do, the more you learn what your strengths and weakness are as a rider, and you'll be more able to understand what characteristics in a specific bike can make the most of what the rider brings.

As mentioned a couple of times above, comfortably riding a road bike takes technique and experience. Scan the road, identify obstacles, and if you can't avoid them you unweight and let your body flex rather than the bike. There's also a certain amount of HTFU.

A MTBer friend from out of town was visiting me and wanted to go for a short ride around my town. I loaned him a road bike. I was appalled at how much punishment he was taking. Every little bump was telegraphing up his spine and arms. I could see him wince. Less than ten miles into the ride he had enough neck and hand pain we aborted the rest of the ride and went home early. I realized too late he had no idea how to ride a road bike. And I know there are MTB techniques I've never mastered.