Innicycle threaded to threadless converter
 

Tired of your flexy old bars, but don't want to use an awful boat anchor quill adapter or swap your fork for a rare 1" threadless one? Years ago, I daydreamed of a solution incorporating the upper half of the headset, but joejack951 went and made one. Then he made more, and you can have one yourself. It's glorious. Comes in silver or black.

https://www.innicycle.com/

Nitto UI12:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...513bfb6912.jpg
quill stem with 31.8mm clamp.

Yeah nah, that's been beaten up with the fugly stick.

9/8 threadless steerer extension gives you your choice of stems, and the Innicycle one is way nicer than the alternatives, even before you throw in ditching headset wrench flats and locknut.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...n-headset.html

Great product. I've built three bikes using this amazing headset. And the quality is VERY high, like up there with Chris King...

It doesn't appear to be any lighter than a quill adapter and headset., and a lot more expensive.

I like that Innicycle design that would be an excellent option and wish I had known about it long ago.

Maybe, but it's way sleeker, has less stack height, and provides a stiffer interface to make use of the 31.8 bars you can hang off a modern stem.

This is all I use for putting modern stems on older threaded fork bikes. Simple, high quality, doesn't make me change out a vintage headset for something that isn't native to the group I'm using and is height adjustable in 10 seconds with a 6mm Allen. I wish him well, but it isn't for me.

Nitto MTC-04 Quill Stem to Threadless Adapter - 28.6/22.2mm | - Ben's Cycle (benscycle.com)

An uncut innicycle is 240 grams (90mm steerer extension). Cut down to 45mm (for a slammed stem) and with the steel stud trimmed, total weight is down to 185 grams.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6549c36b_c.jpg

Well, there you go. Quick googling says a campy headset is about 135 grams and the VO threadless adapter is 272 grams on its own. 407 grams for that setup vs 240 for an Innicycle. I haven't bought one of these yet but if I end up with a bike with a threaded stem that ends up being a long term keeper then I am going to seriously look at these.

It's possible to go even lighter with the headset.

https://velobase.com/ViewComponent.a...ee49c&Enum=111

but the difference isn't enough to justify the added weight of any adapter I have found.

and sticking to threaded stems if you want a stiff front end you have to pick a pretty solid stem which comes with a weight penalty - Seems to me the differences in weight are negligible and the inni upgrade is hard to argue.

Or am I missing something?

Perhaps even lighter exists but this is the ultra-lightweight headset that came on my Trek 660:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...174a5233_z.jpg

Not without compromise, those are plastic cups! It seemed to work ok for the few times I rode the bike with it installed.

the innicycle stem/headset conversion is a nice "modern" alternative to a quil stem, and right now my only question has to do with the "steerer tube slippage" or pivot around with enough stress of the stem on the tube it attaches to. the mnftrs send it with a semi polished surface, without the dull finish friction you get with a "normal" steerer tube in steel/alum/CF. not sure the best solution to add the friction albeit spray mount stickiness or a primer paint to metal. its an issue, surprised they made it this slick.

otherwise, it was a good install and yes, worth the 130.00.

after all, a decent stem after shipping runs 80.00 and a decent headset around 60-90 or more depending on what you want to put on(chris king much much more).

I'm not sure the griping about cost, this is an upgrade unless you love your bar and stem combo, which many who have had their bike dialed in for yrs do. others who buy an older beautiful frame but are retro building with newer components, the innicycle is the only good alternative without using the butt-ugy adapters available otherwise.

Glad to hear things went generally well with the install. Being aluminum, texture on the quill surface will only get mashed down by the harder steel of the steerer tube so I've focused on maximizing contact (hence the smoothness).

If slippage is an issue, be sure that you:
1. greased the threads
2. greased the outside of the cone itself
3. greased between the top cap and steerer tube (that's the bearing surface for the fastener)
4. torqued to 15 ft.*lbs./20 N*m
5. added grip paste to the inside of the steerer tube

Typically that'll do it. If not, I have looked into the issue back when it was first mentioned and made some slight adjustments to the cone/quill interface to improve the available grip range. Your headset shipped prior to the running change being implemented as I just shipped the first silver headset with the updated design yesterday. I'd be happy to get that in your hands if you feel like you've exhausted your other options.

all items well greased before install. in fact, i watched the install video 3x to ensure I did everything right. its a great product, unique.
the only thing I DIDN'T do was to add grip paste to the inside of the steerer tube. what type/brand of paste?

I purchased this a month ago, so its probably the latest version. my suggestion on the design has to do with the pre-set finish, it should be a mat finish that won't slip, so no need for paste. the other change I'd make would to make it 25mm longer so as to avail a slightly higher setting and to allow a 7degr stem to run upsided down to look more traditional. I know its lighter right now, marketing purposes. the material cost is minimal and the ability to cut to length still there. one final item would be to make the top cap larger dia as it sits atop the stem anyway. just a thought.

paste brand/type?

The video actually doesn't specifically mention greasing under the top cap and it also mentions a lower torque spec (15 N*m). The grease isn't a big deal but it may help transmit the torque somewhat better. The higher torque should definitely help. I am pleased to hear that you watched the video, though! For grip paste, I would use what you can get easily provided that it has friction beads in the paste. I have not tested them all but have personally used Finish Line Fiber Grip on carbon fiber parts and it works for that purpose.

I build them right around the corner from where I'm typing and just put the first silver headset together with the new cone so I'm confident that you have the 'old' style. If the shaft on your top cap assembly is black and solid with M8 threads, it's the old version. If it's silver and hollow with M10 threads, it's new.

I appreciate your feedback on the design. I've considered a special extended version for those who want such a thing. I'd say that most customers cut theirs down so making the standard product longer is a waste. A handful of customers like yourself have asked for more length. As such, I'm still mulling it over as it requires at least two new components in two colors (more if offering it in a French or Schwinn version) which means more stock to carry, more SKUs, etc.

The innicycle top cap is the same diameter as the steerer tube portion. The top cap very intentionally does not sit on top of the stem as threadless stems aren't designed for that amount of compression load nor are they all that flat in some cases. By not covering the top of the stem, you can easily swap/flip stems without having to touch the headset. It also allows for adding on a top cap of your choice (a new feature added along with the revised cone geometry). Most users will cut the innicycle steerer so that the top of the top is flush with the top of their stem (see page 1 for images of my set up: https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...n-headset.html).

Please keep me/us updated on the slippage issue.

still slippage with the compound - a textured surface would be good, too good of a product for slippage.

I like the appearance of Inni stem adapter much better than others that are available. Others are cheap and they maker the whole bicycle look like a cheap Franken-bike.

The only reason for my hesitation is the need to remove a perfectly functional Shimano DA headset and replace it with Inni.
Is there a way to use Inni quill to stem adapter without having to waste the existing headset? If that is possible, I would probably get 3 of them.

It will make for a good weekend winter project.

Yes, sort of. While a full headset is provided, there is no reason aside from aesthetics to replace the lower portion of the headset. I’ve heard from a few customer running expensive headsets that they just left the original lower portion intact. There’s also nothing keeping you from swapping back to that Dura Ace headset later down the road (as would be the case if you modified the fork for a threadless headset).

For the upper, it is a little known fact that my initial innicycle concept did not include a full headset. I initially set out to design an integrated upper race and threadless adapter that would replace only the lock nut and upper race of the original headset. I have CAD somewhere for this design, at least for the Stronglight A9 headset on my Trek 660. It was only when I then started looking into how many variations I’d need to cover all the common headsets on the market that I realized it would be a mistake to proceed that way.

I could go into all the reasons but suffice to say making matching upper races and cups is a lot easier than reverse engineering and producing matching parts for a lot of headsets.

So while that doesn’t help you reconcile your Dura Ace dilemma, hopefully it sheds some light on why the innicycle exists as it does.

I love mine, no issues.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9a3577b48.jpeg


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...efd6f7417.jpeg

BMC_KID: Nice Tesch… Built for Speed! 👌

I have one in blue color and I have not seen any other in my city.
The thought to change Tesch had not occurred to me. It looks very nice with Cinelli quill and down-tube mounted shifters. Looking at yours, I think the silver color adapter will look great on mine.

Did you get the rear of the bicycle stretched to accommodate 10x or a more contemporary hub/wheel accommodated?

Quite understandable!
Now, it looks like I might need 3 sets! 😉

When I had the frame powder coated, I had them ensure that it was size correctly for 7400 Dura Ace and in alignment. It worked fine with my previous Dura Ace 7400 but the Campy Record 11 was a little tight, so I carefully stretched it a bit more.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fedb5261a.jpeg

Before I changed it, it was a Dura Ace quill stem.


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0f1bc8043.jpeg

And I can always easily revert back when I want to.

Thanks for the information.
Mine looks like yours in the second photo - blue frame, white handlebar tape, and white leather seat.
Its paint is still quite intact. All I have seen are a few surface scratches on the clear coat that have not even made it though the pint layer.
When you got yours powder coated read, did you already have new decals with you? I imagine, they will be impossible to find now.
If I decide to change, I will go to a local bike shop whose owner is very experienced, has all the tools to ensure that the frame is straight, and I have known him for a long time. He does not recommend changing things that are perfectly functional and safe. So it may be a bit of sales job on my part to convince him to stretch the frame. ;)

just so there's no question about WHAT the slippage is that I'm talking about.

the "steerer" tube is tightened as the upper race/headset and is tight -------- doesn't move. the cap then tightens in from the top, no issue with slippage with the headtube, in the alum finish I might add, not powd ct'd in a color. only the stem, when slipped over top and tightened at the desired ht does the STEM slip/move side to side hoiz around if pulled enough after tightening and the bar intact. the issue I see is the texture of the steerer tube shouldn't allow the stem to slip/rotate around the st tube when tightened. most steerer tubes on forks have dull/matte finishes in the alum or CF. once they are tight enough, rotation ONLY happens with a LOT of pressure, such as an impact.

I'm thinking the best approach is a locktight or light spray glue to the surface. otherwise, it may be tight enough with normal riding ---------- I'm more concerned about the torque when turning with vibration and higher speeds.

anyone else had the issue I have with the "rotating" stem once tight with the bar installed and putting pressure on it?