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Something Wicked this way comes!
So I was at my bike collective yesterday yapping with my guy JP about old bikes and asked if he might have anything interesting in the back room. He said “I might have something you’d be interested in” and directed my gaze to this ugly, beat up old school bus yellow MTB.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c4dbae040.jpeg I mean, what a piece of junk, right? Missing wheels and a seatpost/ seat, it couldn’t be worth more than $20, right? When I sent that picture to my wife she asked if it was my size. I knew then I was in the clear, a deal was struck, and after an 18 year hiatus, I am now a two time owner of a Fat City Cycles Wicked Fat Chance! The first Wicked I found was at a Salvation Army thrift; paid $40 for it but it was too small for me so I sold it on the bay of E for a 10X profit. I paid more this time but it is my size and I don’t see it going on the auction block any time soon. Pics anyone? https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...dd424216f.jpeg As found - pretty rough https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3b8df78a9.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ecc87f8f1.jpeg Seatstay web https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0adc324a9.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...637ac4611.jpeg Bullet shaped tube ends https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...269bf51cf.jpeg Somerville MA manufacture https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...938b11535.jpeg Down tube gusset https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f17e4735e.jpeg Press fit BB https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...728284652.jpeg Press fit BB The collective was kind enough to throw in a seatpost, matching yellow seat, and what I thought at the time was a more appropriate stem than the Answer ATac stem that’s on it now. I love my bike collective! I’ll use this thread to document my progress… stay tuned for more! |
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Looks treaded on.
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Sweet find! :thumb:
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Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
(Post 22145754)
Awesome bike. |
^^^^ A young-ish Jonathan Pryce (it was just 2 years before Brazil). Also with Jason Robards Jr and Diane Ladd.
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So I couldn’t wait to get into it but a little research beforehand was in order. Off to the internet I went in search of enlightenment. Fortunately, there are a few people here and there who know a thing or two about these crappy old bikes. From the fatcogs.com website I found this helpful in decoding my serial number:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fe4c5de175.png So my SN is 359W11, making my bike frame #359, Wicked, 1991, 21” . A 1991 Wicked - made in Somerville, MA, before the move to Serotta. My measurement of the seat tube CTT comes out at 21”, so I think I can reliably say it’s all true. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...519147c23.jpeg Hard to see but it is definitely 359W11 The bike is a bit of a bitsa, with only 2 components dating to 1991: the FD (FD-M732) and crankset (FC-M730 in 180mm length!). The rest are from 1994/1995 time frame; all XT from before 1996 when Shimano unleashed V brakes on an unsuspecting cycling public. The RD is an RD-M750, so about 1998 or so. This is all good news as I’d been wanting to build a nice cantilever braked bike but didn’t have any nice canti’s available. Also I don’t feel constrained to building a period correct restoration job; I have the parts to do so but time and improvements in technology have combined to take the shine off the old stalwart M732/M735 XT. So let’s dig into this pig and see just how bad it really is. Of course it’ll need the full monty with a paint job but let’s start small. The biggest concern I had was the unique press fit BB, but it came apart without too much complaint; unfortunately the retaining collars are both destroyed : https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fe978f0c7.jpeg BB spindle looks to be in pretty good nick: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d83f620f6.jpeg Bearings are still smooth but in the interest of being thorough I think I’ll try to source some new ones. The part number on the rubber seal is SC0228LU, while the part number etched on the body is SC0228N. I suspect the LU designates a body with a groove cut in. The BB is interesting in that it is designed to allow for an adjustable chain line. The bearings are pressed into the BB shell and held in position with a circlip that fits in the groove of the bearing and presses against the outer edge of the BB shell. The spindle just slips into the bearing, and the side to side adjustment is controlled by the locking collars. Very simple and effective, but I can see how it could be a pain to set the chain line. There were (are) patches of black scattered around the frame and fork, and at first I thought it might have been repainted at some point. Turns out some previous owner covered up places where the original paint had worn through to bare steel. The most concerning of these areas is on the drive side chainstay where there appears to be some evidence of a nasty chainsuck event: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b392a1b29.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2ba39a06f.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6a9676bb7.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8e7cb903d.jpeg And that’s where I stopped. It looks bad but I don’t think it went through; I fully intend to get it repaired, just need to source someone local. I think while I’m having this repaired I might want to do a few other thing as well- add a 3rd bottle mount on the bottom of the down tube and add some rack braze-ons to the seatstays. I think I’ll make it an urban assault vehicle, and in that capacity it needs a clean rack mounting option. Thoughts? Feedback welcomed! |
Originally Posted by Smokinapankake
(Post 22146054)
So I couldn’t wait to get into it but a little research beforehand was in order. Off to the internet I went in search of enlightenment. Fortunately, there are a few people here and there who know a thing or two about these crappy old bikes. From the fatcogs.com website I found this helpful in decoding my serial number:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fe4c5de175.png So my SN is 359W11, making my bike frame #359, Wicked, 1991, 21” . A 1991 Wicked - made in Somerville, MA, before the move to Serotta. My measurement of the seat tube CTT comes out at 21”, so I think I can reliably say it’s all true. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...519147c23.jpeg Hard to see but it is definitely 359W11 The bike is a bit of a bitsa, with only 2 components dating to 1991: the FD (FD-M732) and crankset (FC-M730 in 180mm length!). The rest are from 1994/1995 time frame; all XT from before 1996 when Shimano unleashed V brakes on an unsuspecting cycling public. The RD is an RD-M750, so about 1998 or so. This is all good news as I’d been wanting to build a nice cantilever braked bike but didn’t have any nice canti’s available. Also I don’t feel constrained to building a period correct restoration job; I have the parts to do so but time and improvements in technology have combined to take the shine off the old stalwart M732/M735 XT. So let’s dig into this pig and see just how bad it really is. Of course it’ll need the full monty with a paint job but let’s start small. The biggest concern I had was the unique press fit BB, but it came apart without too much complaint; unfortunately the retaining collars are both destroyed : https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fe978f0c7.jpeg BB spindle looks to be in pretty good nick: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d83f620f6.jpeg Bearings are still smooth but in the interest of being thorough I think I’ll try to source some new ones. The part number on the rubber seal is SC0228LU, while the part number etched on the body is SC0228N. I suspect the LU designates a body with a groove cut in. The BB is interesting in that it is designed to allow for an adjustable chain line. The bearings are pressed into the BB shell and held in position with a circlip that fits in the groove of the bearing and presses against the outer edge of the BB shell. The spindle just slips into the bearing, and the side to side adjustment is controlled by the locking collars. Very simple and effective, but I can see how it could be a pain to set the chain line. There were (are) patches of black scattered around the frame and fork, and at first I thought it might have been repainted at some point. Turns out some previous owner covered up places where the original paint had worn through to bare steel. The most concerning of these areas is on the drive side chainstay where there appears to be some evidence of a nasty chainsuck event: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b392a1b29.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2ba39a06f.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6a9676bb7.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8e7cb903d.jpeg And that’s where I stopped. It looks bad but I don’t think it went through; I fully intend to get it repaired, just need to source someone local. I think while I’m having this repaired I might want to do a few other thing as well- add a 3rd bottle mount on the bottom of the down tube and add some rack braze-ons to the seatstays. I think I’ll make it an urban assault vehicle, and in that capacity it needs a clean rack mounting option. Thoughts? Feedback welcomed! thus something wicked has indeed arrived. so good luck keep posted. |
Originally Posted by Smokinapankake
(Post 22145690)
So I was at my bike collective yesterday yapping with my guy JP about old bikes and asked if he might have anything interesting in the back room. He said “I might have something you’d be interested in” and directed my gaze to this ugly, beat up old school bus yellow MTB.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...637ac4611.jpeg If you're going to repaint it, I'd take the opportunity to add a second set of eyelets onto the dropouts, so they don't have to share duty between the rack and the mudguard. But maybe that's just me. |
Nah that’s not a showstopper. Just inconvenient. It’s going to be a sweet ride one day
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
(Post 22146154)
Certainly worth salvaging!
If you're going to repaint it, I'd take the opportunity to add a second set of eyelets onto the dropouts, so they don't have to share duty between the rack and the mudguard. But maybe that's just me. |
A friend in another hobby did all the scene artwork for that movie (and a lot of others). Back in the day when they used real paintwork, nothing digital.
Originally Posted by Bianchigirll
(Post 22145754)
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https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fe978f0c7.jpeg
BB spindle looks to be in pretty good nick: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d83f620f6.jpeg Bearings are still smooth but in the interest of being thorough I think I’ll try to source some new ones. The part number on the rubber seal is SC0228LU, while the part number etched on the body is SC0228N. I suspect the LU designates a body with a groove cut in. The BB is interesting in that it is designed to allow for an adjustable chain line. The bearings are pressed into the BB shell and held in position with a circlip that fits in the groove of the bearing and presses against the outer edge of the BB shell. The spindle just slips into the bearing, and the side to side adjustment is controlled by the locking collars. Very simple and effective, but I can see how it could be a pain to set the chain line. s? Feedback welcomed![/QUOTE] For what its worth the LU in the part number refers to the seal . Full contact double lipped in this instance . LU one side only , LLU Both sides . The "N" on the body refers to the circlip groove in outer ring . In theory correct part number should be SCO228LLUNR .The "R" is for the clip in the groove if needed (too many years working in the bearing industry ) Also the lock collars look to be reasonably standard shaft collar which will be available through an engineering supply company. Sometimes only available with one grubscrew but nothing a drill and tap wont fix ! HAve fun ! |
Originally Posted by madpogue
(Post 22146050)
^^^^ A young-ish Jonathan Pryce (it was just 2 years before Brazil). Also with Jason Robards Jr and Diane Ladd.
edit...well, maybe Bladerunner |
Originally Posted by clubman
(Post 22145868)
That's the Dark Carnival rolling into town. One of Bradbury's many superb stories, rip. Looks like a young Jonathon Price.
Awesome bike. How my Mom got me interested in reading. totally messed me up for “see Spot run” in first grade. As a 5 year old reading about a carousel that the rider got older going forward and younger in reverse was fascinating. want to buy a lightening rod? |
Nice grab. Too bad about the chainstay, but good on ya for turning it into an opportunity. Curious to see how it all goes.
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Originally Posted by 1simplexnut
(Post 22146217)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fe978f0c7.jpeg
BB spindle looks to be in pretty good nick: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d83f620f6.jpeg Bearings are still smooth but in the interest of being thorough I think I’ll try to source some new ones. The part number on the rubber seal is SC0228LU, while the part number etched on the body is SC0228N. I suspect the LU designates a body with a groove cut in. The BB is interesting in that it is designed to allow for an adjustable chain line. The bearings are pressed into the BB shell and held in position with a circlip that fits in the groove of the bearing and presses against the outer edge of the BB shell. The spindle just slips into the bearing, and the side to side adjustment is controlled by the locking collars. Very simple and effective, but I can see how it could be a pain to set the chain line. s? Feedback welcomed! The "N" on the body refers to the circlip groove in outer ring . In theory correct part number should be SCO228LLUNR .The "R" is for the clip in the groove if needed (too many years working in the bearing industry ) Also the lock collars look to be reasonably standard shaft collar which will be available through an engineering supply company. Sometimes only available with one grubscrew but nothing a drill and tap wont fix ! HAve fun ![/QUOTE] Thank you! This is exactly the kind of information I was hoping to find here! I figured both the bearings and the locking collars were pretty standard off the shelf items, but was having trouble finding a grooved bearing. As far as the chainstay goes, I’m sure there are people local who can fix it. We’ve got a technical college just down the street that teaches welding and certifies students to aerospace levels so if anything I’m sure the instructors there can help me out. |
So moving forward, (both literally and figuratively), the fork looks okay except for a little damage to the threads:
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...dff16747c.jpeg This comes from the tang on the washer between the locknut and the adjustable cup. When the locknut gets tightened, sometimes the washer spins as well. The tang slips out of the groove, and if not caught, proceeds to tear up the threads. I usually file off that tang to prevent this from happening. Or use aluminum washers. Makes adjusting the headset a little more finicky, but worth the effort. So - what to do about it? Not much to do but run a triangular jewelers file through the threads, I guess. Ultimately, I’d like to source a nice Tange Switchblade fork: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4a250e6e75.png I’ve actually got a NOS switchblade crown and 1” steer tube, just need to source (or fabricate) some legs: |
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ce6f1bda7.jpeg
Don’t know what happened there… Anyway, if someone’s got a pair of legs without a crown, or even a full fork, PM me please. For now I’ll just stick with the original fork. I really like that the original crown has a threaded hole on the back: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...518c40f41.jpeg Seems so much cleaner than a through hole although it probably drives the cost of manufacture up a bit. Part of what makes it a Fat… Stay tuned! |
It’s amazing what a lick of lemon furniture polish will do, isn’t it, Gromit? To paraphrase Wallace & Gromit….
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ae4e53104.jpeg Dirty on top; clean on bottom https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d558a1a9d.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6f7c792d0.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b562e8779.jpeg |
More cleaning done - I’m amazed at how grimy this pig really is. Cranks before and after:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7a6a85ba6.jpeg Before https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...242a01107.jpeg After https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...170774e61.jpeg After On the other hand, I always like a drivetrain covered in dried up oil and dirty grime. It acts to protect the goods beneath, and usually comes off pretty easily. I cut my bike mechanic teeth in a small shop in Colorado Springs called Pedal Revolution, and I learned there that lemon furniture polish is the best thing for cleaning bikes because it doesn’t affect decals and lithography inks. So I’ve always used it and it’s always delivered for me. So there are nicks and dings and scrapes on all the parts I’ve cleaned so far. For about a New York minute I was tempted to try and polish them all out. But then you lose the patina, and character, of the whole. Oftentimes on my bikes I’ll see a ding or a gouge or a scrape and am reminded of the ride I was on when it happened. The frame is just too ugly to live with so it’ll get repainted but the parts will carry their scars with pride. Patina or character is different from serious damage, and my biggest concern turned out to be a false alarm. I took a dremel with a grinding stone to the chainstay gouge just to see how bad it was. Turns out it doesn’t go through the tube, which downgrades the emergency to just an annoyance: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...aff566ad9.jpeg I think I’ll just have it brazed to fill the dents and be on my merry way. Speaking of dents, I did find a minor one on the bottom of the down tube: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7b7fc9543.jpeg That’s the patina I’m talking about! So my plan of action going forward will be to get this pig brazed, build it up, and ride it for a while. Just to, y‘know, get acquainted with it. Do some commuting, around towning, jump a few curbs, and run down a few potholes. Maybe even take some fire road rides (oh wait, that’s called gravel grinding now) just to feel out that “east coast feel” the magazines used to rave about. |
New bottom bracket bearings came in the mail today - $10 for a pack of 4 from Amazon:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...03589b79f.jpeg Came with the retaining clips, but I suspect I could have gotten away with a flanged bearing as well. 5/8” bore x 1-3/8” OD x 7/16” thickness, just like the originals. They were listed as kart bearings. Now to get some locking collars… Meanwhile the frame is off to the maintenance shop at work, patiently waiting it’s turn under the hands of our resident ex-air force welder for some brass filler work. Should have it back in hand next week…I’m waiting much less patiently! |
Fresh locking collars:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b265b8616.jpeg Just need to get that frame back in hand… |
Awesome! Subscribed to this thread
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Some new chainrings from the bike collective:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1c59fe152.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9c315c974.jpeg I know the pin that catches the chain is misaligned; these came off a Sugino crankset that has the chainring bolt hidden behind the crank arm. But a set of new rings for a measly $10 was too good to pass up! 24-36-50 is a little tall but I’ve run 24-36-48 without an issue on other bikes so we’ll see how this goes… |
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