Originally Posted by datlas (Post 22262557)

That is SO NOT erg mode. Erg mode means the trainer keeps you at a specified power level regardless of your cadence. It's torture. Trust me.

Originally Posted by Eric F (Post 22262560)

Non-erg mode.

Originally Posted by genejockey (Post 22262561)

Sounds like "Trainer Difficulty" setting. I use 100%, which kinda mimics riding IRL, though, honestly, there's a bit of lag. I take advantage of that in the Zwift crits - there are some quick rollers right before the finish line, and I spin up before the resistance hits, rather than just bogging down over each one.

Originally Posted by mvnsnd (Post 22262605)

Zwift only does erg mode when in a "workout". All other times it defaults to slope mode and determines slope from the slope on the course at that moment. But you also have the 'trainer difficulty' setting which does a percentage of the 'actual' slope in Zwift. So for a trainer difficulty setting of 50% and a road slope of 8%, Zwift will make the slope 'feel' like 4%. The drawback is that it still calculates your in game speed by the power being put out and therefore won't make you any faster up hills. It essentially flattens the course at 0%, and gives full slope at 100%. And therefore at higher percentages, you will find you need to shift to keep cadence where it is most comfortable.

As a side, I usually use 75-80% trainer difficulty

Originally Posted by WhyFi (Post 22262608)

Ah, I think that part of the confusion may be that different platforms call certain trainer behaviors by different names (whereas Zwift doesn't seem to use those names at all). I've heard "Slope Mode" used before, which sounds like base of the scaling behavior that genejockey is referring to (default is set to 50% or something, IIRC). I assume that, with Zwift, this is the default and erg is something that you can bumble your way in to?

Originally Posted by WhyFi (Post 22262609)

Cool, that explains it - thanks!

As an aside, when doing workouts, can you opt to do that in a slope mode, as well?

Originally Posted by datlas (Post 22262503)

Erg mode is merciless. Avoid.

Originally Posted by genejockey (Post 22262615)

In Zwift, erg mode is the default for structured workouts, but you can un-select it, and even turn it off on the fly if you're also running the Zwift Companion App on your phone. It also allows you to pause your workout, or to adjust your FTP setting up or down in the middle of the workout.

For free riding, races, group rides, etc., I think Zwift defaults to 50% Trainer Difficulty. Note, however, that even at 100% Trainer Difficulty, downhills are only 50%, so the 15-17% gradient you had to go up to climb the Radio Tower climb is only 7.5-8.5% going down.

Originally Posted by mvnsnd (Post 22262627)

Correct, erg is the default, but it can be turned off. ( and will be disabled for a short time if you pause and resume a workout while you get back up to power)
Zwift defaults to 50% when installed. If you change it, it stays that way all the time.

Regarding downhill, its actually worse than you think. Zwift reduces the road slope by 50% to give a feeling of downhill resistance, but then uses half of your trainer difficulty setting to reduce it again.

It's sort of explained here: https://zwiftinsider.com/trainer-dif...y-on-descents/

Originally Posted by genejockey (Post 22262620)

I never thought of that, because it would make holding the right power a lot more difficult. With my Kickr Snap, as I mentioned there's a lag between the visual and the perceived resistance, so outside of the really flat courses in Watopia, I'd be constantly chasing the power.

Originally Posted by genejockey (Post 22262620)

I don't think it's possible to do slope mode AND erg mode at the same time.

Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets (Post 22262474)

Made it through another morning of grinding by hand. The little lady even ground the second batch. I need to lube the spindle because it squeaks a bit. I'm surprised these things are about $100 new. I should check eBay and see what a 1970ish one with patina goes for.

Originally Posted by WhyFi (Post 22262609)

Cool, that explains it - thanks!

As an aside, when doing workouts, can you opt to do that in a slope mode, as well?

Originally Posted by sbxx1985 (Post 22262580)

Me too.

Originally Posted by WhyFi (Post 22262647)

Ah, I wasn't considering that you'd be traveling over faux terrain and affecting the slope. I just like doing intervals with something resembling the IRL relationship wheel speed and required power on a fixed gradient (whether that's 0% or 1% or whatever).



Heh - my bad. When I said, "as well," I meant having the option to do workouts in either mode, not both at the same time.

Originally Posted by seedsbelize2 (Post 22262688)

Rain

Originally Posted by Velo Vol (Post 22261864)

Nope. It was nominally about time travel. Included Philip Bosco.

Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets (Post 22262550)

I once took out a side view mirror with a U-lock BITD. Almost getting killed used to piss me off to no end back then.

Originally Posted by sbxx1985 (Post 22262580)

Me too.

Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets (Post 22262707)

Originally Posted by datlas (Post 22262030)

Late night last night, we went to our first real concert in 18 months. It was at the University and the program was quite good.

Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets (Post 22262740)

Have you ever seen a concert in a copper mine? Just a quick trip over to the UP and you can!

https://www.mlive.com/news/2021/10/1...rt-series.html

Make sure to dress warmly :)

Originally Posted by MoAlpha (Post 22262765)

So, as I’ve mentioned, I have a loud click that goes away when I take the crank out, pull the threaded BB apart and put it back together. It is now coming back sooner. Would you just take a flyer and replace the BB?

Originally Posted by big john (Post 22262786)

What BB? Is everything torqued? if you have cups with grooves that could be a problem.

Originally Posted by MoAlpha (Post 22262791)

Ultegra. Not torqued to spec, just honked on pretty good. It’s a modern BB with self-contained bearings.

Originally Posted by big john (Post 22262805)

So when you take the crankset out the bearings stay in the frame? Is the spindle smooth or does it have a step from wear? Do you turn them with your finger when you grease them? Just spitballing here.

Originally Posted by MoAlpha (Post 22262810)

The bearings come out with the “cups,” but, of course they are just holders with the bearing units pressed into them. I have spun, palpated, and inspected visually each time and never found anything.

Originally Posted by big john (Post 22262842)

My old bike has 6600 Ultegra and when it was clunking/clicking I took the crank spindle out and cleaned it and greased it and it's been quiet since then.
Wish I could be more help but it seems like you've covered the obvious. Have you thought about the mechanic's forum? Maybe rjones28 can help?