That crank will cost me close to $60 total including shipping! Eeeek

Post "looking for a Raleigh Twenty crank" on the folding bikes forum, see what happens. Most of the Raleigh Twenty fans are to be found there, rather than here, and have already upgraded to cotterless.

For what it's worth, my Raleigh Twenties have the left side crank arm shown above, and the more angular arm on the drive side. In other words, they came from the factory with non-matching crank arms.

Mine is a Superbe, not a Twenty. Though I can still post a Want to Buy thread over there maybe some of them have these type of crank around. Who knows

I don't know of any difference between the cranks on Raleigh Twenties and Raleigh Superbes, though I admit I have not actually compared them side by side.

I am not sure either and was just saying it. Anyways I posted a Wanted thread in the folder section hopefully someone have a spare one lying around. Thanks anyways!

Cool. Good luck!

Ask for a complete junk bike. You might get lucky. Just about anything will work for you that came out of Nottingham. It really doesn't matter how ugly it is either because it is amazing how they will clean up with a little bit of Oxalic Acid in weak solution.

Look for the brands on this page here. Most of that stuff will work for you. If you can get it cheap/free and has a bunch of part you can at least get a Frankenbike running so you can ride it. Then you can replace stuff little by little with exactly correct parts later if you still want to make it perfect.

I think I have one (46T) that is in very nice condition BUT it is from a Royal Scot, Raleigh B line, and is not the Heron pattern. No R nuts either. One of the cranks shows a little tinge of rust but I think it would clean.

I would like to trade even for a rear rack in Bronze Green in similar condition. I am not sure if this is an even trade. I have not been following eBay of late except for the price of R nuts, which is obscene.

Email if you are interested in discussing this.

I have just fallen completely in love with my 1960 or 1961 Rudge. I have it just about the way I want it. It has the whitewall Schwalbe tires and a Brooks B72 saddle. Everything is original except fo the tires, one spoke, one chainguard attachment bolt, and the rear sprocket. I went from an 18 to a 22.

I rode it last night 11 miles to Montclair State University to perform in a masters thesis composition recital. I was quite a spectacle wearing a suit and tie going through all those streets, and I got a lot of waves and hollers and astonished looks.

The trips there and back took a long time, but I enjoyed them a lot.

Today I took the bike to Manhattan wig me, on the train. I'm typing this message on the train back to NJ with he bike leaning up against me. Tonight in the train station, a young woman took a picture of me with her phone. Life is so funny!

^ Excellent! I've got a Chrome '61 or so Rudge.
I should have it rolling soon.

And surprisingly, the bike is incredible agile in traffic. I can make tight turns at high speeds. It brakes extremely well with Kool Stop brake shoes on the original calipers and rims. Shifting in traffic is great, because my first gear is now super low. Whenever I brake, I shift down. I pedal again when it's time to pedal, and in two strokes, I shift back up. I shift because I can. And it's nice.

It's slow, though, but I don't mind. I can do almost anything with this bike, including bang it around. It's very sturdy and reliable. It's dented and rusted, so I don't worry about ruining the way it looks. And it takes some effort to dent it further.

I might shine it up eventually, but not soon. I might upgrade the rims or tires or both one day, but I'm happy with them for now. The brakes are really amazing in the dry. I don't know what they'll be like in the wet.

I need a bell!

Tom...Just wipe the frame and exposed bits down with a little light oil... you will be amazed at the transformation and it provides a very good shield against moisture as well.

+1

Only difference is I use the heavy weight transmission oil for the first go around, put it on heavy and let it sit overnight, then wipe off. Maintenance consists of wiping the bike down with an oily rag every now and again.

Aaron :)

Be aware that the R-nuts only work with original raleigh-threaded cotters. New commercially-available cotters have a different threading that the old R-nuts are not compatible with. There is a guy out there machining the cotters with the Raleigh thread but they aren't as cheap as the ones you can buy at a bike shop.

This guy makes a set for $20 plus shipping. Don't forget to add that to the price of acquiring the nuts themselves if the set you have isn't OEM and/or serviceable condition.

If the OP isn't interested in that crankset I would be willing to trade you a set of R nuts for just the left-side e crank if it is 165mm.

Since I am looking for the heron Raleigh crank, so that's not exactly what I am looking for. I found you a great trading partner now. :)

Are Raleigh partsd really a pickle to find? you should see how many of them things I always have, where abouts are you in ontario Ahson? I always have alot of Raleigh stuff.

I won't say it's hard but it has to do with some luck and timing. I am here in T.O. but could travel if it's not way too far or pay for the shipping. Maybe you have one of those crank that do not use anymore?? :)

Depends on where you are...

In my part of NC they are quite scarce, none of the current bike shops maintain any vintage stock, in fact one throws "old junk" out on a regular basis, however I act like a dumpster and catch most of it. :D

Aaron :)

In NYC/NJ they're pretty common, conditon varies quite a bit.

After some cleaning on the bits, nuts, bolts, I decided to take a picture on some of the 'stuff' that I've removed from the bike so far. :p

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5069/...aaf19ac81c.jpgBits, Nuts, Cranks, Stem, Hub... by W....., on Flickr

[QUOTE=Amesja;12437457If the OP isn't interested in that crankset I would be willing to trade you a set of R nuts for just the left-side e crank if it is 165mm.[/QUOTE]

I will check on the size tomorrow. I would like to keep the set together with the sprocket and axle. I now have slight surplus, 1 extra R nut, for crank so I am not looking for them any longer.

I would like to find an original rack, bronze green in good condition and could make up any difference in parts or cash. Would also consider a vintage Pletchor (sp?) rack.

Is that what you're looking for?

http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-70s-RALE...item4aa9dd3804

Wow, looks nice. I will check the recycler for a Raleigh crank for you--no promises, as people have been buying lots of 3-speed parts lately....

Thanks, I really appreciate it. It's a 46t btw. :)

Pretty much that or a Pletchor. I will likely try to snipe it. There looks to be another one perhaps in a little a better condition but not as many pics to tell.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT