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Originally Posted by Ged117
(Post 22639448)
Re: brakes, I'm hoping the originals with some kool-stop pads will be suitable, though I do have a tektro set handy that would likely provide the needed reach. Neal, you've posted a 650b winter commuter with Soma tires before and I'm taking it as inspiration. I am not quite prepared to modify my Competition for 650 x 42mm quite yet, and I don't want to subject it to our very nasty winters. I've tried 35mm studded tires on an old hybrid during a few winter commutes, and I find that the low temps here render the rubber portion useless, and I end up riding only on the studs, which isn't great heading into corners. I like your solution of wider and yet grippy tires for stability.
https://www.somafab.com/archives/pro...00c650b-x-42mm |
Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
(Post 22639511)
Calling all Late 60's-Early 70's Raleigh Superbe Owners!
Would one of you provide a measurement from the rear eyelet to the brake bolt? I found a rack that has fixed mounting points, and my 21" 1969 Superbe is near where I bought it through my agreeable uncle, who is currently out of state. Yes, this request is odd, but it is still a great help for me. TIA! |
Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
(Post 22641645)
Still looking for a simple measurement. If that's not possible, has anyone fit an Esge rear carrier to a Raleigh 3 speed model?
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Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
(Post 22641645)
...has anyone fit an Esge rear carrier to a Raleigh 3 speed model?
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...51ca3c2083.jpg |
Originally Posted by Ged117
(Post 22639320)
Hi fellows. I'm thinking of locating a '50s or '60s Sports frame and building a 650b wheelset to make it into a foul weather / rougher roads four-season commuter, either with semi-upright handlebars or drops. I have a '56 AW and '49 GH6 hubs handy - I'd use the GH6 to power a Sturmey lampset off of a '49 Clubman that I have in the parts bin. I think the Sports frame can handle up to 40mmish tires, and the frames/parts bikes are cheap to come by, relatively speaking - so that's the initial outline of the plan.
Thoughts? Musings? Suggestions of alternatives? Condemnations? All welcome. I have done something similar on my '56 Sports. 650b with 42's (baby shoe pass) will fit. The stock front fender will not fit with this set up with the tektro brakes. With the slick tires at least, velo orange 650b fenders fit with good fender lines. I wish I had bought the 38mm tires as I think the stock front fender would work with those. Stock brakes will not work, reach is the issue in the rear at least. I think the stock brakes would reach in the front. The solution I found was Tektro 950a brakes, they are still available in nutted versions. I use the Kool Stop salmon brake pads, but the brake system is still not quite up to snuff in my opinion. (It stops fast, but not stoppie fast --- if that makes sense) Hope this helps! |
Originally Posted by thumpism
(Post 22641886)
I was referring to one of these: https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7b85eeb85d.jpg Esge Carrier There are similar ones with a bend up before attaching to the seat stays. |
Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
(Post 22639511)
Calling all Late 60's-Early 70's Raleigh Superbe Owners!
Would one of you provide a measurement from the rear eyelet to the brake bolt? I found a rack that has fixed mounting points, and my 21" 1969 Superbe is near where I bought it through my agreeable uncle, who is currently out of state. Yes, this request is odd, but it is still a great help for me. TIA! YMMV for 21" frames. Can ask a neighbor who has more small Sports than he should (like me, he rides 23"). -Kurt |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 22642124)
On my 23" Sports, this measurement is about 383mm on both the earlier bikes with tubular brake bridges and the late-1970's models with Pletscher flat bridges.
YMMV for 21" frames. Can ask a neighbor who has more small Sports than he should (like me, he rides 23"). -Kurt I don't think a smaller frame would affect eyelet to brake bridge distance much. The brakes have to reach the rims, so they're limited to that ~295mm radius. Admittedly, ~ ⅜" difference might be too much to try to bridge. |
Putting a WTB here where everyone who might have this may be able to see it: Seeking a pair of Lemon Yellow fenders and chainguard for a Raleigh Sports frameset :)
Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
(Post 22642394)
Thank you! I wish it was something different though... the same distance on the Tonard Brazing rack I had my eye on was 13" [per the seller]. The attachment points could work [though the top might not be level].
I don't think a smaller frame would affect eyelet to brake bridge distance much. The brakes have to reach the rims, so they're limited to that ~295mm radius. Admittedly, ~ ⅜" difference might be too much to try to bridge. -Kurt |
I thought folks in this thread would find this particular Raleigh Sports that is for sale in Toronto of interest. Alas, it is 21" - if it were 23", I'd already be on my way to Toronto to get it, or ask @gster to facilitate. Looks like a mid-'50s bike with Canadian spec colours and a drop bar. Coincidentally, it is the same colour scheme as the '56 Sports with an SW that I bought my wife a few years back.
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cruiser-comm...rts/1632514349 https://media.kijiji.ca/api/v1/ca-pr...jijica-640-jpg https://media.kijiji.ca/api/v1/ca-pr...jijica-640-jpg https://media.kijiji.ca/api/v1/ca-pr...jijica-640-jpg |
Originally Posted by Ged117
(Post 22643874)
I thought folks in this thread would find this particular Raleigh Sports that is for sale in Toronto of interest. Alas, it is 21" - if it were 23", I'd already be on my way to Toronto to get it, or ask @gster to facilitate. Looks like a mid-'50s bike with Canadian spec colours and a drop bar. Coincidentally, it is the same colour scheme as the '56 Sports with an SW that I bought my wife a few years back.
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cruiser-comm...rts/1632514349 https://media.kijiji.ca/api/v1/ca-pr...jijica-640-jpg https://media.kijiji.ca/api/v1/ca-pr...jijica-640-jpg Thankfully I am out of the country and am able to maintain my strict "No More Bikes" policy. This also includes, cars, motorcycles, guitars, boats, comic books and any other stuff that I already have. |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 22643225)
Putting a WTB here where everyone who might have this may be able to see it: Seeking a pair of Lemon Yellow fenders and chainguard for a Raleigh Sports frameset :)
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Remembering the Queen
I thought I aught to take my Hercules Coronation edition out for a ride in honor of Queen Elizabeth’s 70 year reign.
I did a Pennsylvania Dutch tour to Intercourse and home again. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f6d30858a.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ae5ed0bbb.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...945ca4a38.jpeg |
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Is it a Raleigh or a Norman?
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1980 Triumph....something
Hi everyone,
Recently I've been searching for a winter / bad weather commuter and errand-runner candidate that'll keep some of the salt nasties off of the Wasp this winter (it wears the 35mm studded winters), and figured I'd jump into the Raleigh Sports world again and have some cheapish fun. My last time here, I owned a very nice '50 Superbe that now belongs to cudak888 I wouldn't use a nicely original bike like my old Superb for this and that, so I set about finding an equivalent that I could mix and match parts on such that nobody would shed any tears. I DID find a '52ish Superbe in rusty condition about a six-hour round trip drive from Ottawa to just east of Montreal, and was about to pull the trigger when an oddity appeared in my searches. It was a 25 minute drive away, so that made the decision and I picked it up yesterday, and its a very interesting bicycle dating from the bitter end of Raleigh's lifespan of bicycle manufacturing under various marques and guises. The plan is to clean it up, install new Panaracer tires, cables, find a saddle (maybe an old B72 if someone here has a spare, or used B17), grease the usual bits, attach my panniers and get out on the road. I have a French 1950s flat bar that I'm going to use, with included brake levers to replace the rusty bits. The lamps work fine, despite the mess of wires. I'm going to install an LED bulb and clean up the lens cover. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7778cce3_k.jpgPXL_20220916_163626604.MP https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...dcbfd3ad_k.jpgPXL_20220916_163324878.MP https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e06e41d4_k.jpgPXL_20220916_163403430 https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c048b5ad_k.jpgPXL_20220916_163346213.MP Hub date of September 1980. The GH6 in the front wheel is dated 1975. The lamps seem early '60s to me. I think this is a "what do we have in the parts bin, Frank?" sort of bike. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0d69e5be_k.jpgPXL_20220916_163428778 Can you believe that I didn't notice the non-drive side shifter and toggle chain until I was poking and prodding it later on? It's a Sturmey five-speeder! I've never played with one before. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2529d011_k.jpgPXL_20220916_163434770 |
^ Great project! I think I read that the five speeds with a toggle chain on the NDS (as opposed to a push rod) can be a bit finicky to shift, but I've never had one myself to try. Lots of crusty goodness perfect for a winter commuter.
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If I had to guess, I think that's a early 1960's Triumph that's seen the framebuilder, given those left-side brazeons, pump pegs, and headbadge screws instead of rivets - which would also explain the nicer-than-usual paint job . Probably UK market too, given the front fork lamp bracket.
Someone definitely did restomod it, 1970's style, which makes it the perfect platform for further modifications. It's already been modified, so nobody can complain about further mods! What's the rim drilling? I'm guessing 32 in front and 36 in the rear. If you can find a 36h Dynohub, you could go to aluminum EA3s. Technically, those centerpulls should even spare you from having to invest in Tektros too. -Kurt |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 22649460)
If I had to guess, I think that's a early 1960's Triumph that's seen the framebuilder, given those left-side brazeons, pump pegs, and headbadge screws instead of rivets - which would also explain the nicer-than-usual paint job . Probably UK market too, given the front fork lamp bracket.
Someone definitely did restomod it, 1970's style, which makes it the perfect platform for further modifications. It's already been modified, so nobody can complain about further mods! -Kurt |
Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 22649613)
Yeah, my first impression is that it's a 60s Triumph road bike frame that someone retrofitted as a IGH 3-speed. That fork crown detail seems pretty darn nice for a lowly 3-speed!
That's the standard fork crown seen on a gazillion Raleigh secondary brand bikes, it's just a prettier stamped crown cap. One of the casualties of TI's cost cutting. -Kurt |
Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 22649443)
^ Great project! I think I read that the five speeds with a toggle chain on the NDS (as opposed to a push rod) can be a bit finicky to shift, but I've never had one myself to try. Lots of crusty goodness perfect for a winter commuter.
Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 22649613)
Yeah, my first impression is that it's a 60s Triumph road bike frame that someone retrofitted as a IGH 3-speed. That fork crown detail seems pretty darn nice for a lowly 3-speed!
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 22649460)
If I had to guess, I think that's a early 1960's Triumph that's seen the framebuilder, given those left-side brazeons, pump pegs, and headbadge screws instead of rivets - which would also explain the nicer-than-usual paint job . Probably UK market too, given the front fork lamp bracket.
Someone definitely did restomod it, 1970's style, which makes it the perfect platform for further modifications. It's already been modified, so nobody can complain about further mods! What's the rim drilling? I'm guessing 32 in front and 36 in the rear. If you can find a 36h Dynohub, you could go to aluminum EA3s. Technically, those centerpulls should even spare you from having to invest in Tektros too. -Kurt I'll update here as I clean it up. |
Originally Posted by Ged117
(Post 22649801)
Isn't it interesting? The braze-on for the pulley looks very...not factory. The badge and the fork crown detail were clues to me as well - along with the quality of the paint and the lack of evidence of any transfers, stickers, decals, or anything identifying the name apart from the badge. I've snooped around and the Sturmey Archer lamps are definitely early 1960s, so this bike has a history. The S5 was very sticky, so sprayed some PB Blaster down the oil port, lubed the shifter, and started gently running it through the gears on the drive side. I exchanged the PB Blaster / WD40 in and out of the hub until it stopped looking orange. I don't think the hub ever had a service or has had light oil in many years. Happily enough it came right back and all the gears run just fine, though the left side shifting is sticky (that cable is really rotten).
I'll update here as I clean it up. Would love to see that not-factory-looking braze on pulley wheel. The factory ones were pretty crude too, so I'm curious. -Kurt |
Just got myself another
Anyone happen to have a matching set of fenders and/or chainguard? https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...01238bbe98.jpg -Kurt |
My buddy sent the requested photo of his Raleigh Twenty. His wife's actually. It originally belonged to her mom and Leslie rode it during her college years in the '70s. This bike and the trusty Batavus I gave to Pat have hung in their various sheds and garages over the years ever since but have suddenly and surprisingly been returned to service.
Pat was a runner and played rugby and basketball for decades and his 72-year-old knees are ruined. He says he can barely walk but was surprised to discover that he can ride so has begun at this late date in order to get a little exercise. I always wanted to rescue this little bike from the rafters but now that it's being used by them I'm glad not to have it. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...51b1a16dd.jpeg He mentioned that he needs a longer seatpost, so has anyone found a decent replacement with some extra length? I don't know the diameter and length of the stocker so don't know what to tell him to buy. |
Originally Posted by thumpism
(Post 22651116)
He mentioned that he needs a longer seatpost, so has anyone found a decent replacement with some extra length? I don't know the diameter and length of the stocker so don't know what to tell him to buy.
https://www.porkchopbmx.com/bmx-bicy...m-long-ch.html Post currently appears to be barely installed, FYI. DO NOT let him ride it like that! -Kurt |
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Here's a nice DL-1 for sale in Toronto.
Listed as a 1981 https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b555584649.jpg Seller is asking $450.00 which would seem reasonable considering the condition and completeness. |
^^Full chaincase, too. Nice!
Had mine out the other day for a really nice ride. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0dc236a041.jpg |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 22651262)
26.8 is the size you need, and this 450mm post ought to give him a bit more wiggle room for height.
https://www.porkchopbmx.com/bmx-bicy...m-long-ch.html Post currently appears to be barely installed, FYI. DO NOT let him ride it like that! |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 22651823)
Here's a nice DL-1 for sale in Toronto.
Listed as a 1981 https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b555584649.jpg Seller is asking $450.00 which would seem reasonable considering the condition and completeness. |
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