I believe the latter year Cannondales with the cantilevered seat stays had removeable dropouts for this very reason. I never really cared for the cantilevered seat stays on my 1995 R900. They contributed to a very non-compliant ride that focused the impacts squarely onto your backside. Plus there was very little clearance between the rear tire and the seat tube, so I could really only run 25 tires on it. I ended up converting mine to a TT bike, which took advantage of the bike's ability to efficiently transfer leg power directly to the real wheel. Plus about 90% of the TT's I did were 10 milers that were over before my fillings were rattled out of my teeth.

I converted it back to a drop bar road bike when my son took it off to college a few years ago.

I guess that Nitto isn't so neato, anymore. ;)

I would have anguished over that for weeks, and several posts here at BF. Looks like you made the hard decision.

I felt that I ran out of options and I needed to move on.

None of those catalog pages show the cantilevered seat stays, so the newer frame should be less prone to dropout failure. That design as mentioned previously, made the dropouts very vulnerable to failure either from fatigue or accident.

You mean the older purple frame should be less prone to dropout failure right?

Yes, sorry the older Cannondales didn't have the cantilevered seat stay design. However at some point in the late 90's Cannondale stopped making the cantilevered seat stay design.

Also noted that the blue Cannondale at the top of the page had the break occur at the hole in the dropout.

Not so much hard to believe as incorrect. In the years during which I worked in Cannondale and Trek dealerships, among other brands, none of the companies' reps ever refused a legitimate frame warranty claim, regardless of the age of the bike. In fact, there have been threads here where people have reported getting upgraded replacement frames and forks because their warrantied bike was so old that the bike company no longer had replacements in stock.

I have an '85 SR300. I think you'll like it when it's built up. Mine is set up with eight speed 105 1055/1056 Shimano. I call it "Barney". It's old and purple.

I am I interested in the fork. I'm confident I can remove the stem piece without destroying the fork. Those steel Cannondale forks are worth saving. Shoot me a PM if you'd ship it.

Sure. Consider it yours. PM sent.

This one will be set up with 600 Ultegra tricolor & 105.

Yes, Cannondale and Trek might globally honor warranty claims more towards what "lifetime" is usually understood to be, but it was explained to me that in the State of Wisconsin specifically, lifetime was interpreted as max. 7 years. Not sure if that was true, but that's what people told me back then when I lived there.

Sure do like the simplicity of the graphics on those old Cdales. A name and a bunch of panted tubes is all that is needed. Really stands out in my eye.

Finished
 

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...70ceaa83c.jpeg


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I had 2 Cannondales - one road bike and one mountain bike - that were ridden hard. I had them from 1987 until 2019. Both were still in great shape when I sold them. I still have a 1985 Cannondale ST500 and a 1987 ST400. Both are still going strong. The frames always seemed strong to me. That being said, I’ve always stayed away from the Cannondales with the cantilevered chainstays. It always seemed like a potential failure point in an otherwise very strong frame. Cannondale used that design from 1989 through 1996. According to the 1989 catalog, the design was used for less weight and t provide easier access to the rear quick release. I would avoid those frames.
As stated previously, older Cannondale touring and sport touring bikes came with a front fork boss for a rack and a third bottle rack on bottom of downtube. Besides that, there’s a much larger gap between the rear wheel and the seat tube (2.5-3”). The higher ST touring models had triple chainrings, while the lower touring model came with a double. Of course you could order a lower touring model frame and spec it how you like, too.

I’ve heard that some call it Cannonfail...

Crack'n'fail was what I always heard!

And your point is? 😀

And Binaca, and Cramp-And-Go-Slow, and Shi*mano, and (going way back) Flexxon Lafftek.

I think that 85 catalog pdf is actually an 83
 

I bought one of those in 83 and still ride it. I think that pic is the same bike. Rd being a suntour superbe is the give away. I'm not sure but I think 83 was the only year they used it..

QUOTE=Charliekeet;21979568]Bingo!
[I attached the catalog here.] The STs had chainstays 2.25" longer than the SRs. Love that violet color - paint looks to be in good shape![/QUOTE]

More on 83 st500
 

This bike has 2 bottle cages only. One on top of and one below the downtube. Friction downtube shifters, suntour newest ultra 6 freewheel, 13-30 I think. 120mm spread. Rd was suntour superbe but I put an xcd on. For years I used campy rally. Cannondale recognized the problem with the superbe and offered a retro fit cable stop to be rivetted in place.. Rear dropouts had threaded holes for racks. Front fork was tange with dual eyelets forged into dropouts. There were no braze-ons for front panniers on the fork. Rear seat stays just below seat have braze-ons for carrier. My 58cm with 700 wheels (upgrade from OEM 27x1 1/4) has clearance for mudguards and 25mm tires. Still a good ride . I just finished London Edinburg, London with 41k climbing and was grateful for the triple cranks ( now 34 tooth max in rear). I did Paris Brest Paris with it a couple years ago . All good . Speaking of shifting, the setup is half-step.. which is pretty cool.. all 18 gears are usable and useful..

Good bike.. I can't complain.. I probably have 20-25k miles on it.. just my little tribute to a fine bike.

.Nice looking build, the Canti Rear drops can have issues, but 30years is a good run and they aren't all problematic.
Best, Ben