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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

Amesja 04-21-11 08:28 AM

I straightened a crank arm that was BADLY bent by heating it up slowly with a MAPP torch and bending it back and then slowly letting it cool back down (still putting heat on it but pulling back the flame so it took a good 10 minutes or so to come back down to merely "hot." Of course this caused the chrome to rainbow and it bent so far the first time that the chrome cracked a bit when it came back. Works well and I've never had an issue with the crank.

You can probably find a crank cheap. Last one I bought at my LBS was a used one they had in back -they charged me $5 for the left side. Is it possible to pull the chainwheel off. I wonder how it is even attached -welded/pressed? Never really looked at it. They look pretty joined to me.

planetirving 04-21-11 09:17 AM


Originally Posted by Amesja (Post 12523638)
I rinse the part off in the sink or with a hose outside. If in the sink I use HOT water and get the part nice and hot and then towel dry. The warm metal will then cause whatever I miss with the towel to evaporate quickly before it rusts. I've found that polishing with mother's polish does a nice job of protecting a part from future rust as it has waxes in it. Sometimes I'll polish again with a heavy auto wax as well. Short of clear-coating the part there isn't much more one can do to keep a bike part from rusting again.

Pulling a part out of OA to just air-dry without neutralizing or washing off the acid isn't a good idea.

This sounds great., thank you so much! I had just 2 small question, though, for clarification:

1) Mother's Polish: This is the auto wax, and is it for the painted parts only , not the chrome parts, or is there a chrome polish, similar to the Turtle Brand Chrome Polish, or is it good for both?

2) Is it ok to soak in the OA the screws, bolts, nuts, and brackets holding the brake and shifting cables?

I can hardly wait to start working on my bike restoration project!

ahson 04-21-11 10:28 AM

Where can I find those cotters replacement that will fit the original Raleigh R nut? I checked with Mark from BikeSmith and he said his cotters won't fit the 26tpi threading for the R nut.

Amesja 04-21-11 12:57 PM

There was a guy online that was selling the R-nut cotters. I don't remember where I saw it but there is a guy somewhere. I'll search my bookmarks.

Mother's is chrome polish. It's good stuff. For the painted parts I use a heavy car wax.

Some cheaper zinc-plated parts will turn black in the OA. You need to experiment. It will polish right back up though if it turns black with rubbing/polishing compound and some elbow grease. I wouldn't put alloy brake parts in. Anything chromed or painted seems to be just fine though.

Amesja 04-21-11 01:03 PM


Originally Posted by ahson (Post 12537229)
Where can I find those cotters replacement that will fit the original Raleigh R nut? I checked with Mark from BikeSmith and he said his cotters won't fit the 26tpi threading for the R nut.

Found it!

$20/pair

noglider 04-21-11 01:46 PM


Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 12529620)
Raleigh manufactured at least twice a many wheels as they did bicycles and think it was a case of these being good enough for mass produced wheels and they have shown that they can stand up to many decades of use and they were using very strong steel rims as opposed to lightweight aluminium on most of their bicycles.

I believe that their high end racing and performance wheels used cross spoke patterns throughout.

I think the data suggests that Raleigh changed their wheel building procedure in '68 and started building crossed spoke wheels and also moved to a 36/36 and stopped using a 40/32 wheel set.

Certainly they've been crossed for a very long time. I'm talking about interlaced, where the spokes cross each other laterally at the last cross.

gna, your problem suddenly reminded me of the crank straighten tool we had long ago. It was steel cranks only, of course. It was big, really big.

gna 04-21-11 02:44 PM


Originally Posted by noglider (Post 12538070)
gna, your problem suddenly reminded me of the crank straighten tool we had long ago. It was steel cranks only, of course. It was big, really big.

Good to know that it's possible. I asked the fellas in the machine shop and they said they would use a hydraulic press and straighten it for me. I just need to get it off the bike and to the shop.

Stupid railroad tracks...

Schwinnsta 04-21-11 03:21 PM


Originally Posted by gna (Post 12538351)
Good to know that it's possible. I asked the fellas in the machine shop and they said they would use a hydraulic press and straighten it for me. I just need to get it off the bike and to the shop.

Stupid railroad tracks...

I straightened one on mine with pipe.

Mike Mills 04-21-11 03:51 PM

"Give me a big enough lever and I could move the Earth."

Sixty Fiver 04-21-11 04:39 PM


Originally Posted by noglider (Post 12538070)
Certainly they've been crossed for a very long time. I'm talking about interlaced, where the spokes cross each other laterally at the last cross.

gna, your problem suddenly reminded me of the crank straighten tool we had long ago. It was steel cranks only, of course. It was big, really big.

I meant to say interlaced... with the exception of radial wheels all spokes are crossed.

Sixty Fiver 04-22-11 12:02 AM

Finally got the '54 out for an inaugural ride today and was pleasantly reminded why I have so much love for this bike... it is smooth, fast, and actually pretty nimble although you don't have to dodge much with those 700:32 tyres.

Swapped my Japanese front wheel for one with a beautiful Spanish high flange hub and a Weinmann concave rim which looks very nice and the old wheel is going to become a parts donor for another wheel build as I need to match up some rims.

Those Zeus hubs are some kind of beautiful to look at and an absolute joy to ride on... they are every bit as nice as Campagnolo hubs.

rhm 04-22-11 06:55 AM


Originally Posted by Schwinnsta (Post 12538568)
I straightened one on mine with pipe.

I straightened one with a bench vise. But it depends where the bend is, 'cuz if the chain ring is in the way there's no room to work.

Schwinnsta 04-22-11 08:45 AM

I just took the crank off.

michael k 04-22-11 10:27 AM


Originally Posted by Schwinnsta (Post 12538568)
I straightened one on mine with pipe.

Used the handle from a 2 ton floorjack.Surprised how easy the arm straightened.

noglider 04-22-11 02:32 PM

Yeah, it's not rocket science. You just have to make sure that the pedal eye is in a plane that's perpendicular to the spindle's axis, or your pedal will wobble this way and that.

planetirving 04-24-11 08:26 AM


Originally Posted by Amesja (Post 12537848)
Some cheaper zinc-plated parts will turn black in the OA. You need to experiment. It will polish right back up though if it turns black with rubbing/polishing compound and some elbow grease. I wouldn't put alloy brake parts in. Anything chromed or painted seems to be just fine though.

Hi Amesja, thanks! One more dumb question: Besides the obvious parts and struts holding the book rack on back and the cable and brake clips, what other general parts on a '76 Raleigh are "aluminum or zinc plated or alloy"? The bracket holding the handle bars, for example, has a white corrosion on it, does that mean it is an alloy? Are the bolts and nuts, also not best to soak in OA (some have surface rust on them, mostly the ones around the handle bars)?
Thanks!

Amesja 04-24-11 08:59 AM


Originally Posted by planetirving (Post 12548528)
Hi Amesja, thanks! One more dumb question: Besides the obvious parts and struts holding the book rack on back and the cable and brake clips, what other general parts on a '76 Raleigh are "aluminum or zinc plated or alloy"? The bracket holding the handle bars, for example, has a white corrosion on it, does that mean it is an alloy? Are the bolts and nuts, also not best to soak in OA (some have surface rust on them, mostly the ones around the handle bars)?
Thanks!

Parts from a Raleigh I would not put into OA:
  • Fender and chainguard mounting bolts.
  • Brake lever mounting bolt & nuts.
  • Brake pivot bolt, locknuts and washers.
  • Brake cable adjuster and locknut and the cable since bolt and nut.
  • Brake pads and brake pad nuts/washers (these will turn black within the hour).
  • Seatpost binder bolt and nut. (you might get away with a short soak but watch it.)
  • Leather part of the saddle -any acid will attack the leather and getting it wet is not a good idea much less soaking wet. I have put the vinyl mattress brooks directly into a soak and it cleaned up beautifully like new. It takes a LONG time to dry in front of a fan. Spray down the metal parts with WD or other oil so it doesn't re-rust. I imagine you could pull the leather off of a really rusted brooks frame and de-rusting that if you feel up to that. The Vinyl seats went from very ugly and rusted to looking like new after a 48 hour soak. After they dried out fully I wiped more oil on the springs to protect them and they were quiet and wonderful and looked like new.
  • The wheelhubs and the spokes. The rims you DO want to get so this is a hard one. The spokes might turn black but they probably already are pretty black on the older bikes. The only way around this is to use a shallow pan like used for drywall mud application under a wheel truing stand or other jig. I usually just dunk it deeper and then clean the spokes back up if they get a bit blackened. The only other solution is to de-build the wheel and soak the rim alone. At that point you might as well put new spokes in too. And then replace with SS spokes and put on a CR18 alloy rim...

Anything with a nice chrome plating will be fine. Anything that is already kind of old or not very shiny might end up darker but it is NOT a big deal to use some rubbing or polishing compound to make it shiny again with a bit of elbow grease so it is not the end of the world if you do blacken something. Just be careful with alloy stuff as it is harder to polish back up and might pit Use a magnet. If it doesn't stick then don't put it into the OA.

Another thing is pedals. They WILL clean up very nicely but the oil/grease inside them will kill your OA in a hurry. It's best to take them apart and degrease each part before soaking if they are rebuildable. If not then use a separate small bath and be aware that the OA will probably not be very usable afterward. Be sure to rinse well and use WD or compressed air to get out all the water before they rust. Re-lube the bearings the best you can with something like heavy gear oil. Non-rebuild-able pedals suck. Some of the non-chromed cheaper pedal parts can be sensitive to OA as well. It's not the end of the world to have to polish them back up.

planetirving 04-28-11 01:47 PM

Hi Amesja,

Once again, such great detail, thank you so much. I am just about ready to go (if my 2 and 4 year olds don't help too much). By the way, what do you think of "Duro" brand Aluminum Jelly to clean the back rack and other aluminum parts and Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish to coat it and the other non chrome parts or is that over kill (I am not trying to get out of hard work, I just want to avoid scratching and such). Cheers!

Amesja 04-28-11 02:55 PM

Never used it. All the aluminum parts or anything greasy goes into my ultrasonic cleaner if it fits into it. Bigger alloy stuff if it is bad enough to need polishing gets rubbing/polishing compound on a cloth. But like I said somewhere else in this thread. Alloy is usually treated with some sort of finish. Burn through that and it will not stay shiny -it'll turn a dull grey with oxidation.

Sixty Fiver 05-11-11 03:25 PM

Just spent a few days at the frame shop and after 30 years stuff tends to accumulate and sometimes parts get purchased and then don't get used... came home with 8 new pairs of Mavic rims that were in the graveyard that just happen to be 650A.

Wonder what I will do with these ?

:)

Amesja 05-11-11 03:45 PM

Giant ring-toss game?

djkashuba 05-11-11 05:27 PM

Can you tell me where you got that front rack? Nice build!


Sixty Fiver 05-11-11 09:27 PM


Originally Posted by Amesja (Post 12629252)
Giant ring-toss game?

Excellent idea... :D

Maybe I should save a few for rebuilding 26 by 1 3/8 wheels... will be interesting to have the quintessential English bike rocking some vintage French rims.

Guess the boss bought a bunch to make trailer wheels and after doing that had a bunch of extras that were not needed for anything else... our bikes are typically build on 700c and 26 inch wheels and an odd size like a 650A (albeit nice) is not as universal and at the time, the options for decent 26 by 1 3/8 tyres was limited to pretty low end stuff.

They had been sitting out for years but are in remarkably nice and nearly new looking shape and have never been built up..

Sixty Fiver 05-11-11 09:29 PM

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...s/IMG_9412.jpg

I so need to build a rack like this...

Mexican Street Dog 05-12-11 05:39 AM

Hiya folks,
Just the other day at the swap meet I found a Raleigh Golden Arrow.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/carl_brill/5692668925/

Beauty huh? The hub is a 1936. It's been painted over poorly and all the decals are gone. New tires and pads and I'm going to give it a test ride. Then I will clean it all up and paint it. I dunno what I'm going to do about a seat, the one on it is pooched and I can't afford a classy Brooks or alike so...
Everything works it just needs love and lube.
Cheers

Velognome 05-12-11 05:54 AM

Great find! Don't be so quick to paint it. Better to clean it up first and see what you have. A repaint will destroy the patina it has developed.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5070/...eee49a3d0f.jpg

Amesja 05-12-11 06:17 AM


Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 12630776)
Excellent idea... :D

Maybe I should save a few for rebuilding 26 by 1 3/8 wheels... will be interesting to have the quintessential English bike rocking some vintage French rims.

Guess the boss bought a bunch to make trailer wheels and after doing that had a bunch of extras that were not needed for anything else... our bikes are typically build on 700c and 26 inch wheels and an odd size like a 650A (albeit nice) is not as universal and at the time, the options for decent 26 by 1 3/8 tyres was limited to pretty low end stuff.

They had been sitting out for years but are in remarkably nice and nearly new looking shape and have never been built up..

I"m assuming these are steel rims? Even so, I bet they were worth something. I need to start dumpster-diving behind bike shops...

Mexican Street Dog 05-12-11 06:33 AM

Velognome- I am in the process of cleaning it now, it has been repainted recently but a very poor job, gaps, runs and brush marks. But we'll see. There are no decals or striping or anything left. It has Dunlop 26x1 1/4 rims. What kind of tires would look good as replacements? This being from the 30's.

Also, is it alright to break in on a thread like this to show this bike or ? I am new to forums and don't know the etiquette.

Schwinnsta 05-12-11 07:35 AM

Carl, you may be able to remove the paint without removing the factory original paint.

clubman 05-12-11 07:48 AM

Spectacular Golden Arrow! Looks like a Terry horsehair racing saddle. Keep it as original as possible...it's so cool.


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