Saddle Height Formulas / Rules of thumb
 

A quick google return yields these 3 approaches for determining saddle height (snapshot below). Yes, I realize that these are starting points etc, but it's worth pointing out that, I actually get about the same yielded Saddletop to BB result with any of these formulas for my given inseam (84.5 cm)
Lemond: 74.6cm
Hamley: 92.1cm Saddle to Pedal spindle Minus 175mm crankarm = 74.6cm
Minus10: 74.5cm

All well and good -- seemingly pick your favorite method as they seem consistent to one another. However, my current saddle is sitting about 5 cms higher than these results at a bit over 79cm, and has been this way for a while. roughly a 2" difference seems like a lot. Anyone else this far off from what the formulas say? Wondering if having large feet (49eu) might be part of reason. None of the formulas speak to clipless cleat stack height, but I would assume they build in some type of average amount (seeing as cycling inseam is usually measured barefoot, right?

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7d1517afd9.jpg

What happens if you lower your saddle by 5 cm? How did you arrive at your current saddle height?

I don't know honestly. It would make my saddle top though about even height-wise with my bars. Saddle has been at this height for probably 10yrs+. No knee or leg pains, but just thought it curious that I have saddle set at such a different height than the calculators suggest. I was perhaps hoping to hear that this isn't at all uncommon.

Will be trying a MyVeloFit soon. It'll be interesting to see what it comes back with.

I always just played with my saddle height till it felt right. It was only about six years ago after coming to BF and seeing that too many seem to rely on formulas to tell them what to do that I measured my saddle height.

I was pleasantly surprised that when measured from the pedal to the top of my saddle it was 109% of my inseam.

Measuring to the pedal makes more sense to me, but only a tad. Then you only have to transfer that measurement to any other road bike and not have to worry if it has 165mm cranks or 175mm cranks.

Are you sure you measured your cycling inseam correctly? It isn't the one on your pants.

Yup. FWIW, overall height is 188cm

One of the reasons for your difference might be that you are a toe dipper. I tend to keep my feet at almost the same angle to the ground all through the stroke.

But a toe dipper with a large/long foot might have their saddle higher. Particularly if the cleats are more forward on the shoe than other of us keep them.

Yeah pedaling style, cleat fore/aft, shoe choice, pedal/cleat choice, chamois thickness, mobility, seat setback, drop and reach, femur to tibia length ratio all contribute to saddle height.

I have mine way lower than the lemond method or other rules of thumb would indicate for my fairly long (96,5cm) inseam. But I do have a long tibia, i have my cleats as far back as they'll go, I am a heel dropper and while I don't have a lot of drop, due to my long legs I have enough reach to match pro tour riders of the same torso length.

​​​

I have my saddle set slightly lower than the Lemond method would suggest, but not much. I think I’m within 10 mm IIRC. But I also adjust my saddle slightly up or down during the season depending on how I feel. For example a few weeks ago I decided to move it up about 5 mm because I was feeling a bit of strain on the front of my knees. It felt better so I’ve left it there. But I might well go back down at some point as I’ve done in the past many times. So I have a range of saddle height that I operate within, rather than a fixed in stone setting. I would say that range is at least +/- 10 mm.

I have used MyVeloFit too and that also gives you a range of acceptable saddle heights and I found that I was bang in the middle of their suggested range. The only odd thing about MyVeloFit for me was that it recommended an extreme amount of saddle setback. However far back I went it wanted me to go even further. This was using my Kickr Bike, so I had almost unlimited adjustment. But even with it maxed out it still wanted more! In the end I just ignored their setback advice. But the rest was good.

So you have relatively short legs?

Ask and ye shall receive. Guys riding with their saddle too high is very common.

I never thought so.. eg. wear 34" Levi jeans, but typically 32" dress pants to fall just at the top of the foot. Interwebz provide a 2.2:1 as average ratio of height to inseam. 188cm height/2.2 = 85.5cm, so maybe off from average by ~1cm shorter

Too many variables. Plus we can’t even decide if saddle height should be based on “proper” knee angles at the top, middle, or bottom of pedal stroke.

All the rules are fine to start, but tweak a bit for your comfort and riding style.

I personally think the “heels on pedal at bottom of stroke to lock knee” is easier and gets you a similar result to the calculations.

A while back, I saw somebody with his saddle set so high that, from a distance I assumed he was riding out of the saddle, but as I got closer, I saw that, no, he was seated. It was just that his hips were rocking like crazy.

Oh, yeah - one of my bikes has the saddle a bit lower than the others, about 1cm lower than the highest (I really need to pay closer attention!). I rode it last week for the first time since November, and I noticed a couple times that my cadence was in the 95-100 range, whereas on my other bikes it seems more like the 90-95 range. I think maybe I'll try lowering the saddle on the highest one and see if I notice a difference.

One thing that complicates the analysis, though, is that they have different pedal systems (low saddle has Look Delta vs high saddle has Look Keos) and I can't guarantee the cleats are set up the same, which would also affect this.

I've figured that since I use Speedplays, if anything the cleat stack height is less than a non-factor.

Crank arm length and shoe stack height both must be considered. Measuring the exact area of the saddle also varies.

Formulas are useless because people drop their heel to varying degrees. I set my saddle height based on hip stability.

Yeah, lots of variables. Size of feet, cleat position, pedal/cleat stack height, riding style, flexibility etc. I go off what feels comfortable and doesn’t cause any issues.

Well, the old formulas for bike size puts your height as a 60cm frame, but your legs as a 56.

So I'm still a little curious if you got the book up tight enough to your groin when you measured your cycling inseam.

Yes, I think so. Maybe I can get another 1/2" if I really wedge it up there.
Not sure what old formulas you're referring to though. Just a quick browse, Canyon, Cannondale, Specialized, and Giant, all put me on a 58. Technically, Giant puts me on a large (as being for 6' to 6'4" riders). Trek however is saying a 60 would be more appropriate.

One is that frame size = 2/3 cycling inseam.
And then the usual height to bike size is something like 5'4" = 50, 5'"6 = 52, etc.

Formulas get you in the neighborhood, but that's about it. If I use the same saddle height for my old bikes with 170s as I use for my modern bikes with 175s, I feel like I'm pedaling flatfooted.

A few years back (or more than a few) there was a rider in the pro peloton who used an FSA prototype seatpost that had 10mm of adjustment in 1mm increments you could adjust on the go. I believe the seatpost was used to transition from climbing position to descend position. Basically a more accurate slightly slower dropper post.

I inquired from FSA whether they were bringing said seatpost out as a product and sadly they had no such plans. I would have loved that seatpost. I find my seat height might fluctuate from day to day or even during a long ride so a few mm of adjustability would be very welcome indeed.

A whole different issue is bikes with dual sided pedals. I use them on my day to day / touring bike. The difference in seat height depends on the shoes being used especially on flat pedal side. The height difference between my clipless shoe and my regular winter shoe is in the region of 20mm or so. Having adjustability to 20mm would be godsend.

That does sound very useful. I would actually be tempted by a lightweight Road dropper post for endurance riding, especially in the mountains. Even different bib shorts can affect saddle height by a few mm. Also fatigue has an effect. I read that it’s quite common for pro riders to lower their saddle toward the end of a Grand Tour when their legs are suffering. Sometimes it’s just nice to move the position slightly anyway. I do that quite often on my indoor bike.