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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

markk900 12-09-15 01:04 PM

Sure looks restored (to a high quality mind you), but silly money should be reserved for original bikes (if at all).

dweenk 12-09-15 01:06 PM

7 Attachment(s)
A grey lady followed me home:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492485

I must admit that she was both cheap and easy. Cheap as in little money, and easy as in only having two badly rusted spots to deal with. The right rear brake pad bolt and nut needed treatment as did the lower brake arm. The front rim had three badly rusted spots and rust patina on the rest. A little OA bath, and all is better now.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492486http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492487http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492488http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492489http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492490http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492491

Mechanically she is sound, but could use some TLC that may not be coming until next year. She rides like a Raleigh Sports should and shifts precisely. I had to replace the front tube, hence the twine tied to a spoke to remind me about right and left.

3speedslow 12-09-15 01:50 PM

6 Attachment(s)
Well I had to go get my 73 but I didn't mind.

These are as gotten, overall in good mechanical shape with a few items needing TLC.

Sadly, the B72 which looked great in the pic had a tear on the nose which will continue as it is ridden:(

Paint is in nice show with just a few chips. The hint of rust wipes gone with fine brass and WD-40.

Original bag is in good nic with all original sales lit included and wrench.

Pump was non functioning but further inspection revealed a loose bolt connecting the leather plunger. Fixed right away and it forced good pressure. Looks like it stayed that way all it's life and the leather plunger is well oiled still.

Tires original Raleigh with the front fine and holding air for now. Back is split and flat. Replacing them anyway.

Enough for now...

Pics. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492494 With seat raised to my height. 21" size had me worried.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492495 Got some reading tonight!

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492496 Maybe use this bag or my Carradice.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492498 Have since shined it, looks factory fresh! Nice deep green valve attachment.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492499 Cock pit. Plastic dial broke, bummer!

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492500 Raleigh!

Clean up begins and a few parts to look for.

michaelz28 12-09-15 05:32 PM


Originally Posted by 3speedslow (Post 18377696)
Well I had to go get my 73 but I didn't mind.

These are as gotten, overall in good mechanical shape with a few items needing TLC.

Sadly, the B72 which looked great in the pic had a tear on the nose which will continue as it is ridden:(

Paint is in nice show with just a few chips. The hint of rust wipes gone with fine brass and WD-40.

Original bag is in good nic with all original sales lit included and wrench.

Pump was non functioning but further inspection revealed a loose bolt connecting the leather plunger. Fixed right away and it forced good pressure. Looks like it stayed that way all it's life and the leather plunger is well oiled still.

Tires original Raleigh with the front fine and holding air for now. Back is split and flat. Replacing them anyway.

Enough for now...

Pics. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492494 With seat raised to my height. 21" size had me worried.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492495 Got some reading tonight!

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492496 Maybe use this bag or my Carradice.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492498 Have since shined it, looks factory fresh! Nice deep green valve attachment.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492499 Cock pit. Plastic dial broke, bummer!

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492500 Raleigh!

Clean up begins and a few parts to look for.

looks great ! it should clean up nice . i don't know if this is an an excepted practice but i used a polishing compound lightly on the paint ans then a good wax and the the paint really came out .

michaelz28 12-09-15 06:03 PM

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater ..... 68 sports for 125 .

3speedslow 12-09-15 06:09 PM

Paint does need to come out. Dust build up has to go first. Tomorrow will be a full hot soapy wash before I decide on the next treatment. I have used some of those paint polish compounds with good results. I'm really loving the black paint, seems very old fashion.

Original brake pads are perfect but rock hard ! Found complete set of new Kool stops in the bin so that problem is solved. Tires are going to be harder.

Found out the plastic fulcrum piece has cracked. Time to look for another.

I have a new B68 in the bin which will take the old B72 s place.

Narhay 12-09-15 07:01 PM

I need both time and motivation go rebuild a dynohub and aw hub on alloy cr18 wheels and db stainless steel spokes, as well as finish up two ladies superbes.

Motivate me!

browngw 12-09-15 10:25 PM


Originally Posted by 3speedslow (Post 18377696)
Well I had to go get my 73 but I didn't mind.

These are as gotten, overall in good mechanical shape with a few items needing TLC.

Sadly, the B72 which looked great in the pic had a tear on the nose which will continue as it is ridden:(

Paint is in nice show with just a few chips. The hint of rust wipes gone with fine brass and WD-40.

Original bag is in good nic with all original sales lit included and wrench.

Pump was non functioning but further inspection revealed a loose bolt connecting the leather plunger. Fixed right away and it forced good pressure. Looks like it stayed that way all it's life and the leather plunger is well oiled still.

Tires original Raleigh with the front fine and holding air for now. Back is split and flat. Replacing them anyway.

Enough for now...

Pics. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492494 With seat raised to my height. 21" size had me worried.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492495 Got some reading tonight!

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492496 Maybe use this bag or my Carradice.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492498 Have since shined it, looks factory fresh! Nice deep green valve attachment.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492499 Cock pit. Plastic dial broke, bummer!

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492500 Raleigh!

Clean up begins and a few parts to look for.

Looks good! Have some fun with it.

gna 12-09-15 11:51 PM


Originally Posted by browngw (Post 18375011)
This past Sunday was a special day for me. On a grey cool day I donned a tweed cap and wool sweater and went for my first ride on the Raleigh Roadster, "Sir Wayes A. Tonne". Wow! This bike is a different ride than I had imagined. Smooth, upright, momentum, all words describing the tour of the 'hood. Thanks to all BF peeps for your help and support.

:thumb:
You have mastered the art of living.

Narhay 12-10-15 02:01 AM

It appears as though my drive side crank arm for a '72 Superbe has some threads that need cleaning up. Would your standard 9/16 pedal tap work for the steel that Raleigh used for the crank or is it too hard?

BigChief 12-10-15 07:53 AM


Originally Posted by Narhay (Post 18378932)
It appears as though my drive side crank arm for a '72 Superbe has some threads that need cleaning up. Would your standard 9/16 pedal tap work for the steel that Raleigh used for the crank or is it too hard?

I don't think the crank arms are hardened. I've seen plenty of bent ones. In fact, I just bought another Sports junker with a bent arm. Unfortunately, it's the chainwheel side which means it won't fit in my bench vise. I'll figure some way to bend it straight.

3speedslow 12-10-15 09:27 AM


Originally Posted by Narhay (Post 18378399)
I need both time and motivation go rebuild a dynohub and aw hub on alloy cr18 wheels and db stainless steel spokes, as well as finish up two ladies superbes.

Motivate me!

I feel your pain of time, chore restrain ! Those are some heavy tasks to get done. What I tell myself " pick one and do it, keep moving along. Soon your completed. Just keep moving"

I have all the time in my day but still get bogged down by errands and chores before I get to work on the bikes. At least I get to ride while I am knocking the errands off.

You can do this !

brianinc-ville 12-10-15 10:06 AM


Originally Posted by browngw (Post 18375011)
This past Sunday was a special day for me. On a grey cool day I donned a tweed cap and wool sweater and went for my first ride on the Raleigh Roadster, "Sir Wayes A. Tonne". Wow! This bike is a different ride than I had imagined. Smooth, upright, momentum, all words describing the tour of the 'hood. Thanks to all BF peeps for your help and support.

Once you go slack (angles, man, angles), you never go back...

browngw 12-10-15 10:26 AM


Originally Posted by Narhay (Post 18378399)
I need both time and motivation go rebuild a dynohub and aw hub on alloy cr18 wheels and db stainless steel spokes, as well as finish up two ladies superbes.

Motivate me!

A finished bike will be something that will be enjoyed for years to come (by someone). Unfinished bikes lanquish in storage purgatory and could be scrapped one day. Trying to save them all keeps me going!

gster 12-10-15 11:08 AM

It's like a lot of things, bikes, cars, guitars, motorbikes etc. Once you take them apart (the easy part) there's a good chance they'll never get put back together.... also known as a basket case.

Slash5 12-10-15 12:04 PM


Originally Posted by Narhay (Post 18378932)
It appears as though my drive side crank arm for a '72 Superbe has some threads that need cleaning up. Would your standard 9/16 pedal tap work for the steel that Raleigh used for the crank or is it too hard?

I would have said they are 1/2"?

Salubrious 12-10-15 12:05 PM


Originally Posted by 3speedslow (Post 18378270)
Found out the plastic fulcrum piece has cracked. Time to look for another.

Contact Jon the gentleman cyclist through the Lake Pepin 3-speed tour website The Lake Pepin 3-Speed Tour

He has metal fulcrum clips instead of the cheap plastic ones. He also has LED replacements for the lighting.


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 18379190)
I don't think the crank arms are hardened. I've seen plenty of bent ones. In fact, I just bought another Sports junker with a bent arm. Unfortunately, it's the chainwheel side which means it won't fit in my bench vise. I'll figure some way to bend it straight.

There is a bicycle tool that was made by Cyclo and others before the war that was designed specifically for straightening bent crank arms. The tool has fallen out of favor with alloy cranks as they can't bend without breaking. But it works great on steel cranks, which can bend if the bike is in a crash.

3speedslow 12-10-15 02:51 PM

Salubrious,

Yes, I saw those offered on the site. Will eventually get one but for now will dig through the bin at a long time LBS here and see if I can come up with one.

Spent some time on Tube for refresher on tuning the shifters then followed the steps. Shifting is crisp but the tick is too loud. Must go find my oil can.

Ment to hit the LBS for tire order but got side tracked with a long out of town bike errand. Sucked the time right out of my day!

At least the weather was fantastic !

dweenk 12-10-15 02:58 PM


Originally Posted by Slash5 (Post 18379867)
I would have said they are 1/2"?

I think that the only 1/2" tapped cranks are one piece (Ashtabula).

dweenk 12-10-15 04:24 PM

This popped up on the local CL today. 2 VINTAGE BIKES

I know the guy pretty well, he always has some interesting bikes. Once I asked where he found them - he gave me a story that only a 12 year old might believe. I think that he finds them at the auction in Crumpton every Wednesday. In any case, I have purchased a few bikes from him (the price drops as time passes).

I need another bike like a hole in the head, but an Armstrong/Ross? I am considering if it gets down to $30.

BigChief 12-10-15 06:34 PM


Originally Posted by dweenk (Post 18380452)
This popped up on the local CL today. 2 VINTAGE BIKES

I know the guy pretty well, he always has some interesting bikes. Once I asked where he found them - he gave me a story that only a 12 year old might believe. I think that he finds them at the auction in Crumpton every Wednesday. In any case, I have purchased a few bikes from him (the price drops as time passes).

I need another bike like a hole in the head, but an Armstrong/Ross? I am considering if it gets down to $30.

I know. I couldn't walk away from a 40 dollar mid 60s Sports. Another 21" of course. My problem is that even though it's shabby and missing a few parts, it's not rusted much at all and too nice to strip for parts. It will make a fun winter project next year. If things go as usual, I'll put two weeks of work into it and sell it for a hefty $60 profit!

arex 12-10-15 06:52 PM

How rebuildable are the later-year Raleigh rubber block pedals?

I know they're not MADE to be torn down, lubed, and adjusted, but I don't think that's a real barrier. I'm just wondering if I'm headed for heartache if I try.

3speedslow 12-10-15 07:18 PM


Originally Posted by arex (Post 18380817)
How rebuildable are the later-year Raleigh rubber block pedals?

I know they're not MADE to be torn down, lubed, and adjusted, but I don't think that's a real barrier. I'm just wondering if I'm headed for heartache if I try.

I think if you can get lube, grease into the bearings then you've done all that you can.

3speedslow 12-10-15 08:42 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Had another think about the steel fulcrum and thought I should just go and get it.

Emailed Jon and getting things going. All steel bike...steel fulcrum. Sounds right.

From the site The Lake Pepin 3 speed tour

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=492751

michaelz28 12-10-15 09:33 PM

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...psyzy04xt4.jpg

Originally Posted by 3speedslow (Post 18380888)
I think if you can get lube, grease into the bearings then you've done all that you can.


BigChief 12-10-15 09:38 PM

Those steel fulcrum bushings stuck around long after the change to plastic pulleys. Any Raleigh earlier than those with the plastic cover triggers should have them.

markk900 12-10-15 10:03 PM


Originally Posted by arex (Post 18380817)
How rebuildable are the later-year Raleigh rubber block pedals?

I know they're not MADE to be torn down, lubed, and adjusted, but I don't think that's a real barrier. I'm just wondering if I'm headed for heartache if I try.

I had the same thought about a set of the Raleigh rubber platform pedals - got them apart, lubed them, even special ordered "C" clips to reassemble them. They worked great for about 5 days, then fell apart. Crappy pedals and I have a bag of 98 clips sitting on the shelf (min order 100). Agree with @3speedslow - just get some lube in there and don't go any further....you *are* headed for heartache.

3speedslow 12-10-15 10:05 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 18381149)
Those steel fulcrum bushings stuck around long after the change to plastic pulleys. Any Raleigh earlier than those with the plastic cover triggers should have them.


True. Would love to find an original steel fulcrum sleeve but not going to get me on the road when I need it now.

I figure it helps a great ride organization as well with the purchase.

I will continue looking for the older steel one.

browngw 12-10-15 10:07 PM

I have been using 75-90 gear oil (from my Triumph TR7)and letting it run in the pedal, and then wipe up.

3speedslow 12-10-15 11:10 PM

One set of pedals I took a straw, jammed it down into the tub of grease then wiped the outside clean. Pushed one end into the space next to the bearings and slowly squeezed the grease onto the bearings.

It works where the pedal threads into the crank arm side. Mostly I just use Phil's tenacious oil.


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