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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

BigChief 09-15-17 10:30 AM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 19863275)
@BigChief - I love it! It will be fine. FYI a Dremel tool with a small stainless steel wire brush attatchment does with Nedra with stuff like that. Wear a mask though, otherwise you'll inhale rust.

That would be nice. The only thing I have here are those toothbrush shaped brass brushes. There is a Dremel tool at my old shop. Maybe I could reacquisition it :D

BigChief 09-15-17 10:38 AM


Originally Posted by rhm (Post 19863379)
I'd appreciate a description of how you do this! If you can manage photos, that would be great; but whatever.

This shape isn't too difficult to form since I have an original to copy. I'll chuck different drills in my bench vise and wrap wire around them until I match that radius. Then I'll see how far to wrap the wire around the drill until I match the end that comes off the radius at an angle. The other side is straight. Then I'll make those two bends with needle nose pliers and cut to length.
My problem now is that the only .012 wire I have goes with sets of expensive strings for my acoustic guitar. The bulk packs I bought for my electric go from .010 to .013. .013 would be quite a bit stiffer than the original.011. I'm reluctant to go lighter with the .010.

rhm 09-15-17 10:50 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 19863604)
This shape isn't too difficult to form since I have an original to copy. I'll chuck different drills in my bench vise and wrap wire around them until I match that radius. Then I'll see how far to wrap the wire around the drill until I match the end that comes off the radius at an angle. The other side is straight. Then I'll make those two bends with needle nose pliers and cut to length.
My problem now is that the only .012 wire I have goes with sets of expensive strings for my acoustic guitar. The bulk packs I bought for my electric go from .010 to .013. .013 would be quite a bit stiffer than the original.011. I'm reluctant to go lighter with the .010.

I hear you! I wonder if I have any broken strings kicking around...

You can get individual strings on eBay reasonably cheap:

Professional 150XL/.304mm Guitar String 0.012in Musical Extra Light 88MM | eBay

Might take a while to arrive, but no harm in putting in an order sooner rather than later.

jungwiar 09-15-17 01:15 PM

My Fleet
 
5 Attachment(s)
My contribution and current fleet:

Top Left - '73 Sports & Newly Aquired step thru Robin Hood. Hub says '69 on this one. Got for $20 in rough shape... New front wheel, rear rim (rebuilt with original hub), tires, full strip down and rebuild and linseed oil for the patina. Apologies for non-drive side shot. Mid-way picture on 20 mile rail-trail run...

Next - 1973 Sports in "Platinum" - have had this for 6 or 7 years. Bought from a co-worker returning to Sweden. New tires and B72. Solid bike - co-worker commuted on it year round for a number of years...

Next - His and Her's '70 Superbe's. Near mint condition! Bought from original owners with keys, racks (men's not installed), one pump, B66's in great shape, original Dunlop "White Sprite" tires and tubes, working Dyno hubs/lights... Unreal how nice these two are.

His and Her's in action - mid-way thru another 20 mile rail-trail run...

Finally, after complete strip down and rebuild, post past-Sunday ride. Hard to beat this ride with no one on the trail, Packer's game on the radio listening to them beat down Seattle (OK - maybe a stretch there) and a couple cold ones in the cooler.

BigChief 09-15-17 06:53 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I ended up just using the needle nose pliers to form the wire. I used the .010 guitar string I had on hand. Remember the official size is .011, but the 10 seems to work fine. All you need is a circle big enough for the pin to fit through, kinked enough so it doesn't slip backwards off the pin and that little foot up front. The Evapo-Rust worked wonders after an overnight soak. So, I'm back in business. Might take a couple evenings off from working on this. Don't want the project to be over too fast.

Attachment 580785

arty dave 09-15-17 07:23 PM

Musical pawl springs - too cool for school Big Chief :) - I love the innovation on this thread! I'm very impressed with the evaporust clean-up too - that hub was looking POTUS orange :lol:

Looking at your fleet jungwiar - Raleigh did choose some really nice colours. That darker grey platinum is classy. And the other colours I've seen on this thread too - the light metallic blues, the golds, silver, and of course the shades of green, make for very good-looking bikes. With my DL-1 stripped down to bare metal I was very tempted to go with a darker green 'british racing green'. But I've stuck with black, and currently 1/2way through randyjawas brush painting advice.

rhm - I have two S5 hubs but I can't tell what is wrong with the image (nice image btw) - please share what you've seen?

thumpism 09-16-17 05:33 AM

Here's a pretty one.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...306909625.html

1963 LADIES ROYCE UNION 3 SPEED - $149 (CHESTER)

https://images.craigslist.org/00u0u_...Bb_600x450.jpg

NICE SHAPE

gster 09-16-17 12:52 PM

The $50.00 Superbe
 
3 Attachment(s)
Someone before me spent a little bit of money on this bike before I got it last weekend.
Not sure if they spent wisely....
I posted before that it appears someone tried to re-furbish the rear hub and had only succeeded in wrecking it.
The sun gear was completely ground down...
And the hub was way too tight. The adjustable cone side had the locknut and washer reversed as well.
The headset has been replaced and the chain and cables are new.
It also has a suspension seat post.
In any case, it's back on the road and I may take it to work for a while to get around on.
Attachment 580878

Attachment 580879

Attachment 580880

SirMike1983 09-16-17 02:20 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 19865822)
Someone before me spent a little bit of money on this bike before I got it last weekend.
Not sure if they spent wisely....
I posted before that it appears someone tried to re-furbish the rear hub and had only succeeded in wrecking it.
The sun gear was completely ground down...
And the hub was way too tight. The adjustable cone side had the locknut and washer reversed as well.
The headset has been replaced and the chain and cables are new.
It also has a suspension seat post.
In any case, it's back on the road and I may take it to work for a while to get around on.
Attachment 580878

Attachment 580879

Attachment 580880

Today, even a bike shop can make these mistakes. Some mechanics have never worked on an old-type AW, and think they need to run fully tight like many modern hubs (zero play, and totally locked down). The old AWs run loose by today's standards and have pretty wide bearing tolerances, provided you set up the hub centering correctly by backing off the drive side cone by the 1/4 turn the manual calls for. It all goes to hell if you just max-tight down but the drive and non-drive cones. Then you have a hub running gears not properly aligned and all jammed together.

Then the transmission breaks down and the person sells the bike (for $50 here, it's still a good buy). "I took it to a shop, and it's broken again, so this thing sucks!".

I once worked on a bike fresh from a shop that was having issues. I immediately saw: (1) the front hub was on backwards and (2) the cones were set up all wrong on both the front and the back.

gster 09-16-17 03:47 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 19865956)
Today, even a bike shop can make these mistakes. Some mechanics have never worked on an old-type AW, and think they need to run fully tight like many modern hubs (zero play, and totally locked down). The old AWs run loose by today's standards and have pretty wide bearing tolerances, provided you set up the hub centering correctly by backing off the drive side cone by the 1/4 turn the manual calls for. It all goes to hell if you just max-tight down but the drive and non-drive cones. Then you have a hub running gears not properly aligned and all jammed together.

Then the transmission breaks down and the person sells the bike (for $50 here, it's still a good buy). "I took it to a shop, and it's broken again, so this thing sucks!".

I once worked on a bike fresh from a shop that was having issues. I immediately saw: (1) the front hub was on backwards and (2) the cones were set up all wrong on both the front and the back.

I think you nailed it. In this case both wheels were tight!
The sad sun pinion below.
Attachment 580886
On the plus side the wheels are reasonably true, Dynohub works and the paint is presentable.

gster 09-16-17 03:51 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 19864656)
I ended up just using the needle nose pliers to form the wire. I used the .010 guitar string I had on hand. Remember the official size is .011, but the 10 seems to work fine. All you need is a circle big enough for the pin to fit through, kinked enough so it doesn't slip backwards off the pin and that little foot up front. The Evapo-Rust worked wonders after an overnight soak. So, I'm back in business. Might take a couple evenings off from working on this. Don't want the project to be over too fast.

Attachment 580785

I'm quite impressed that you make your own springs.
I'll have to remember that little trick for the future.
I think I made one years ago with a staple.....
didn't work.

erileykc 09-16-17 07:17 PM

Guitar strings! That is some major resourcefulness. I'm going to have to file that tidbit away.


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 19864656)
I ended up just using the needle nose pliers to form the wire. I used the .010 guitar string I had on hand. Remember the official size is .011, but the 10 seems to work fine. All you need is a circle big enough for the pin to fit through, kinked enough so it doesn't slip backwards off the pin and that little foot up front. The Evapo-Rust worked wonders after an overnight soak. So, I'm back in business. Might take a couple evenings off from working on this. Don't want the project to be over too fast.

Attachment 580785


gster 09-17-17 09:15 AM

Super Superbe
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quite happy with my purchase and happy that I spent $0.00 to fix up.
Pump and leather saddle were not included in original purchase.
It also came with a 17T rear sprocket that's been swapped for a friendlier 19T.

Attachment 580984

BigChief 09-17-17 02:03 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by gster (Post 19867251)
Quite happy with my purchase and happy that I spent $0.00 to fix up.
Pump and leather saddle were not included in original purchase.
It also came with a 17T rear sprocket that's been swapped for a friendlier 19T.

Attachment 580984

You're ahead of me. I put on some normal brake levers and a mid 60s printed face shifter. Got the spokes tensioned on the rear wheel using my scientific wiggle method and trued the wheel :innocent:
I need to make up the cables and see if I can work out a soft dent in the fender. It's got all new bearings, a new chain and a 20T cog. I think the Brooks mattress saddle is original to the bike. Really ugly though. I'm going to hate finishing off this project using it.

Attachment 581023

Attachment 581024

gster 09-17-17 05:26 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 19867774)
You're ahead of me. I put on some normal brake levers and a mid 60s printed face shifter. Got the spokes tensioned on the rear wheel using my scientific wiggle method and trued the wheel :innocent:
I need to make up the cables and see if I can work out a soft dent in the fender. It's got all new bearings, a new chain and a 20T cog. I think the Brooks mattress saddle is original to the bike. Really ugly though. I'm going to hate finishing off this project using it.

Attachment 581023

Attachment 581024

I'm only ahead because I didn't do a full breakdown on this one.
I didn't re-pack the BB as I didn't want to disturb the original Raleigh acorns
(I poured some heavy oil down the seat tube )
I didn't repack the stem.
I left the tires on it etc.
I already have a very nice, original tall Superbe and don't really plan to hang onto this one too long.
Yours is coming along nicely and the green looks good against the red BG.

johnnyspaghetti 09-17-17 07:47 PM

I am considering giving an offer for this Dunelt 5-speed. Hub is date stamped 67 11. no front fender otherwise looking mostly complete & original.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/r...277071875.html

Ballenxj 09-17-17 09:25 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 19867251)
Quite happy with my purchase and happy that I spent $0.00 to fix up.
Pump and leather saddle were not included in original purchase.
It also came with a 17T rear sprocket that's been swapped for a friendlier 19T.

NICE! :thumb: Is that a generator front hub?

gster 09-18-17 04:13 AM


Originally Posted by johnnyspaghetti (Post 19868502)
I am considering giving an offer for this Dunelt 5-speed. Hub is date stamped 67 11. no front fender otherwise looking mostly complete & original.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/r...277071875.html

A rare bike.
I'd buy it at that price.

capnjonny 09-18-17 09:19 AM

Raleigh paint Question
 
4 Attachment(s)
I have brought a few Raleigh Sports home from the Bike exchange for some love and have had success Clear coating the original paint with Rustolium clear lacquer.

Currently I am working on a black 69 Sport which, after I stripped it down and cleaned it, had excellent original paint, with most of the decals in great shape .

What I have done so far is paint everything with Naval Jelly, then sand with 1000 grit paper to set up the paint. On the rear triangle and forks I then sprayed it with Rustoleum gloss black lacquer.

On the main tubes I spot painted it with gloss black then sprayed the whole frame in Rustoleum clear lacquer.

Overall the frame now looks like new. I had to paint over the thin pin striping in some places (I could never duplicate that THIN gold stripe) but the bike is looking great.

Here is my question:

What paint did Raleigh use on the old Sports? was it enamel or lacquer? Did they clear coat ?

So far I haven't had any compatibility problems.

I do wonder about longevity if I use black or clear lacquer. From my experience painting cabinets I know that clear nitrocellulose lacquer will yellow over time. It probably doesn't matter with black but might with some other colors.

Right now I am waiting on some gum wall tires I bought off amazon and I will have it on the road.

Here are a couple pics of old projects. The root beer '78 had just a little fading on the top of the rear fender and looks like new. Sold it in the spring at the Bike Exchange semi annual bike sale to a young lady who was in love with it.

The silver Sport frame was in pretty rough shape paint wise. After de rusting with naval jelly and a clear coat it looked surprisingly nice. Still had lots of chips and scratches but the gloss really brought out the original colors.

The last pic is the current project "Before" . I tried soaking the seat to reform it and it just disintegrated! the old leather just crumbled. I think I might try to make a new leather saddle for it . If anyone can tell me what weight leather was used(I'm guessing 10 oz. ) and has any source for the rivets I would like to know.

In a past life I was a hippy leather craftsman selling hand made leather purses on the street corner and I still have all my tools.

johnnyspaghetti 09-18-17 10:19 AM

jster- No dnyohub. Thats ok. I need another three speed like I need a hole in the head. My OCD is kicking in & I will offer $75 in the ad e-mail response, but willing scrape together nickels to do the $100

adventurepdx 09-18-17 11:11 AM


Originally Posted by johnnyspaghetti (Post 19869615)
jster- No dnyohub. Thats ok. I need another three speed like I need a hole in the head. My OCD is kicking in & I will offer $75 in the ad e-mail response, but willing scrape together nickels to do the $100

But it ain't a three speed, it's a five speed! ;)

Ballenxj 09-18-17 04:02 PM


Originally Posted by johnnyspaghetti (Post 19868502)
I am considering giving an offer for this Dunelt 5-speed. Hub is date stamped 67 11. no front fender otherwise looking mostly complete & original.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/r...277071875.html

Just noticed this. For that price it should be at your house already. :thumb:

gster 09-18-17 05:39 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by Ballenxj (Post 19870579)
Just noticed this. For that price it should be at your house already. :thumb:

I'm partial to Dunelts. Someone busted in my shed door last year and stole my '67 3 speed.


Attachment 581225

3speedslow 09-18-17 05:54 PM

@capnjonny I believe they did use lacquer with a clear coat.

3speedslow 09-18-17 05:55 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 19870799)
I'm partial to Dunelts. Someone busted in my shed door last year and stole my '67 3 speed.


Attachment 581225

That was a nice bike and a damn shame!

Ballenxj 09-18-17 06:32 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 19870799)
I'm partial to Dunelts. Someone busted in my shed door last year and stole my '67 3 speed.

That SUX! Damned thieves. Need to have an open season on them. :mad:

BigChief 09-19-17 07:06 AM

Tektro R559s on a Sports
 
I used a pair of Tektro R559s on my Rudge Sports scorcher project. This is supposed to be a hot rod style. It already has a alloy case AW hub. Aluminum front wheel and a CR-18 rim is planned for the rear. I figured the aluminum brakes would fit nicely with the scorcher theme. On the front, it works fine, but the housing compression over the length of the rear brake uses up too much of the lever travel. I was hoping the new cable would settle in but I've been riding it a while now and it hasn't changed much. I was careful to square the housing ends and they are fitted to new ferrules. So in my opinion, the Raleigh lever and the R559 just isn't a good match for the rear brake. I'll leave one on the front, but the rear will be getting an old steel caliper with Kool Stops.

3speedslow 09-19-17 08:31 AM

Thought I would mention this here.

I am putting a trade request on that FT sub for a set of pre 73 levers and Raleigh North Roads bar, maybe some grips as well. For trade I will have a nice set of 1972 fenders and chainguard in blue.

Looking to keep my scorcher project going. Anyway, PSA over!

noglider 09-19-17 08:32 AM

@BigChief, you could install cable stops so you'll have two short lengths of housing.

BigChief 09-19-17 10:18 AM


Originally Posted by noglider (Post 19872049)
@BigChief, you could install cable stops so you'll have two short lengths of housing.

Hmmm, interesting. Did some research. They come in 28.6mm. That would mean I'd need 1.5mm shim for the 1" top tube. a strip of inner tube would be 1mm around the diameter. That's only a half mm short. I could glue two strips together if it didn't quite tighten up.
Might try that. Thanks
edit:
Brain cramp...I could use Sturmey Archer fulcrum clips.


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