@Buellster Thanks for the tip. Works great. The electrical tape binds up in the shell threads and holds the lens on firmly. Now I can put it all back together and wait for the LEDs to show up.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c7fa10c5fc.jpg

That sturmey archer box definitely puts brooks' current hipster marketing in perspective.

Glad to hear it!

use this stuff every day. Listen to records and the cub games on this, as well as running the tv through it!https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5a53d1c3d7.jpg

Nice.
My main system is a Marantz 2252B with a pair of large Advent speakers.
Getting back OT...
A new Toronto Kijiji listing.
A 1963 Raleigh built Super cycle 3 speed.
These were sold (by the thousands) here in Canada at Canadian Tire stores.
Seller is asking a reasonable $125.00
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...389346f4db.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c71cb43c60.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...100b3f0b2c.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1cdd56d7bc.jpg

Interesting place to put your passport.

My computer room is drowning in elder tech, got a UFO Weltron record player in here, phillips ghetto blaster with a fancy three motor tape deck and electric push button controls, which means that the fast forward and rewind don't work and I can't figure out why. Many many old cameras from every corner of the world, a lot of soviet and eastern bloc made stuff like watches, monoculars etc. Plus obligatory piles of old commodore and atari equipment that I really need to get around to fixing and selling.

A lot of it isn't even mine, it just sort of entered my orbit. I guess that's what happens when you work in the attic.

That's the standard Wald chainguard that was available in just about every bike shop in the 60s and 70s. A rusty hockey stick could be refinished in an off white to match the mudguards.

Yes, also noticed that the brakes are set up "British" style w/ front brake on the right.

The printed face plate on the shifter is in exceptionally good condition. Usually these un-embossed ones fade. Especially the red parts. This picture shows why I don't like those 2 bolt brake levers. They interfere with the trigger shifter. At least the way I like to set them.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e9ca31ff64.jpg

Takes me back ...all my stuff is on the phone or on an old Ipod in a speaker doc, (or lost) takes up much less room but its not quite the same tactile feel or sound. Its works for me and I don't miss schlepping cds or LPs on a move but its fun to see the old stuff getting used and being appreciated, kind of like an old steel bike :D

I've got a box full of those levers (discards) for that exact reason.

I've officially got my first three speed!
I believe it's an 80s model given the downtube decals but the headbadge looks to be 60s?
any help figuring age.
no serial on the top tube. the BB havnt, or the drive side drop out. Havnt had a chance to check the other side.
I mainly bought it for the hub and front crank as I'm looking to convert my Harding when I have a chance. The hub is in great shape! Got it for $30.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ad98f96847.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...726671b04d.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5b7eeaa1a5.jpg

It wouldn't be hard: a new rear wheel with the internally geared hub, and the appropriate shift lever, fulcrum clip and cable. Depending on the hub and frame, you may need to adjust the dropout or axle spacing to make it fit. The limiting factor would be how much you're willing to spend.

N.B. I believe the "27" is a reference to the tire size.

Check the date on the hub, but my guess is mid seventies? Welcome to "threespeeding"

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0490fde0cc.jpg

Yup 78 looks to be.

I know it's not anything amazing, but what is the general feel on late 70s AW hubs? It is in great co edition and I'm using it regardless I'm just curious where these fall in the Raliegh quaility hierarchy.

[QUOTE=gster;20483647]
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...389346f4db.jpg

Those Supercycles were the odd ball Raleighs, the only ones I've seen with Birmingham style fork crowns. Every other rebrand had Raleigh sloped crowns

[QUOTE=clubman;20484804]I suspect many of these Super Cycles were assembled from the parts bin.
They would have been priced below a Raleigh branded bike.

The later the AW hub, it seems, the more people disparage them. It is true that SA quality went down over the years and that SA/Raleigh/TI was financing itself through depreciation -- that is, not investing in equipment maintenance, repair, and replacement. The story goes that when the Taiwanese Sun Race people bought the SA marks, brand, equipment, etc, that they couldn't make anything with the machinery because of the poor condition. That is, that it was worn out. That's what the internet says, anyway, and if it's on the internet, it must be true.

All that being said, there's a metric buttload of late 70s early 80s SA AW hubs out there (I've got a couple in service) and they seem to tick, tick, tick right along without a problem or discouraging word. I guess it shows that if you design something with lax tolerances, worn out machinery doesn't necessarily cause a result that is noticeably more poor than the result with new machinery. Sort of like a Chevy 235.

So, it turns out to be a 78. The two-tone graphics, I think, were a late 70s thing.

$30 is pretty good, I think. You can get all the 3-speed stuff (shifter, clips, etc) and still have a 21" Sports frame that someone might be interested in and other stuff like the stem and bars and front fender and those later model (in the Sports world) Weinmann brakes and levers. Check out the brake pads -- they look like they might be Kool Stop Continentals. Not valuable, but worth keeping and using or passing along.

About that crank -- it's attached to a bottom bracket setup with the Raleigh specific BB shell which is about 70mm wide and has 26tpi threads. So, you won't be able to use the BB cups on your Harding (please don't try). You will need either normal 24TPI cups that are the correct thickness for the spindle or a cottered BB setup for the Harding in order to use the Raleigh crankset. You may be able to find a cottered crank spindle that will fit right into your Harding -- I don't remember from previous discussions and pictures what your Harding crank and BB looked like. Maybe it's already cottered and you're good to go -- can't remember.

edit:

If you choose to not save the frame, you might scavange the headset (Raleigh 26tpi threads and 27 mm crown race). There are very few NOS ones around and when someone has a Raleigh Super Course or Grand Prix that needs headset parts, there you are. Again, not valuable but nice to have around and it doesn't take much closet space.

it's my first ever passport, at 61! I like to see it often.

I had a 64 2 Door Chevelle with a 230 Turbo-Thrift engine with a 2 speed Power Glide transmission (Planetary gears..)
Not fast but pretty much bullet proof.
It was stolen around 1984 but I still have the keys and the ownership.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b28dd67d56.jpg

This saddens me haha
I dont have a cottered crank, it is a three piece spindle but not cottered.
I had figured an english bottom bracket would work with an english bike. That was foolish of me haha
It is a holdsworth model BB bracket if that changes anything.
what are the chances the spindle would go in, and if it doesnt what are my options to get this single gear on my Harding?

Coincidence, I owned a 64 Chevelle Super Sport. Mine had a couple non stock items like a 400 small block, T-400 trans, & 4:11 gears. Had just gone through a divorce with the ex getting my 72 Cuda, (which she destroyed) then upon seeing how the Chevelle ran had the nerve to say she wished she had held out and got that instead. :rolleyes:

Look on the left side or front/rear of the seat tube just below the seat cluster for the serial number. It might be a very faint stamping. It would be a shame to part it out but someone would probably like to have the frame. I'd take the brake levers, cables and calipers.