Alright I've got everything compiled to do my first tubular glueing but have a few final questions. I still need to know what to reattach some seperated base tape with, sheldos site says latex emulsion, where would I get this? Also try as i might I just cant get the old glue off the rims. It is completely hardened with no tack at all. I tried Goof Off goo remover and mineral spirits. What else can I try to remove this as from my understanding it must be removed before re-glueing?

Steel wool takes old glue off pretty well. It needs to be sort of coarse. Be sure to wear heavy duty gloves, and clean up all the pieces of steel wool that come off.

Also, there may be other viable options for latex emulsion, but try googling "jevelots". I think that would qualify.

I just tried and got 2 pages that were in french. Am I doing something wrong.

Oops, there's no "s". Try jevelot, latex

I have had good luck using a spoon to remove the old glue. It fits the contour of the rim and chips it right off. But then maybe the glue I removed was pretty ancient.

Other options are bronze wool, stainless wool or a synthetic type pad. The maybe a bit more fdifficult to find & are more expensive. Their benefit is that the missed residue does not leave the rust spots that steel wool can. Bob

Has anyone tried these tubulars?

http://www.yellowjersey.org/tt.html

Inexpensive. What did you think?

Paul

Never had expierence woth those tubulars but yellow jersey is a fantastic shop. Great customer service. Easy to work with, probably one of the best online shops.

I've heard very mixed reviews of the new Clement tires.
One problem may be the comparison to the clement seta silks of
old, how can anyone beat that?

Marty

a tangential tubular question

I recently scored my first set of tubular wheels, and pretty wheels they are. Campy Omega rims with older dura ace hubs. They are however 28 spoke wheels. What would you consider a safe rider weight for 28 hole wheels with these rims. What are your experiences?

Guys who weighed 150 pounds used to race on those with no problem. I think you're safe up to at least 180 if you don't abuse your equipment.

I'm purchasing a used set of tubular wheels. They have a set of Conti Sprinters glued on. The tires have been on for a couple of years. The seller recommends regluing. These wheels are for track use on 42degree banking? Should I reglue?

If I reglue, should I take off all the old glue from the rim? from the tire? How would I do that for the tire? Any other differences between a reglue and a new installation?

USA Zorro
Thanks for your reply. I guess I have to drop the 15 winter pounds before riding those wheels. The combination of the two should be very good for my uphills.
Paul

If the glue is dried, yes, you want to remove it. It isn't hard to get it off the rim - a brass brush should knock it off pretty quickly. I've never had to deal with getting dried glue off a tire though.

the wheels i pulled the trigger on aren't real vintage being Zipp pave rims laced to Phil hubs, but they are still tubulars. so i figured you guys might have the best imput on tire recommendations.

in uptopia, i would have the lightest, most puncture-proof tire available... but as this is earth, i'll have to compromise... any endorsements for a lightweight, puncture-resistant, durable tubie? thanks!

Vittoria corsa cx

I've been really happy with conti sprinters for an all round tire. Conti also recently released
a sprinter with gatorskin technology, supposed to be bulletproof.

that said my Tufo Elite Roads are seriously bulletproof, damn things won't wear out
and they ride like clinchers. . . .

marty

I had to remove a fresh tubular to change the valve extender. What do i need to do to remount this. Both the tire and rim have glue residue on them... do i need to remove all of this or just apply some more glue on top of the old on the rim and tire and put 'em back together.. ?

Is the glue crackly and glazed? If it is, you'll want to take it off the rim (thoroughly), and gently remove as much as you can from the tire before re-glueing. If the glue has some elasticity remaining, all you need to do is reapply fresh glue.

yeah it's still all elastic and boogerish (if you can pick it off...) esp on the tire ( man that conti stuff sticks..)

yup just put a fresh layer of glue on the rim and remount the tire, you should
be good to go.

marty

Old Roval wheels
 

Some years ago i found a little used set of Roval tubular wheels at a fleamarket. I am now considering using them (probably with Conti Sprinter). They are lightweight wheels and I wonder if it is safe to use them even though they are made more than 20 years ago.

As long as they're not damaged, they're true, provide a decent braking surface and there's adequate spoke tension, they should be fine.

I recently bought a pair of Vredestein Volante Pro Tri Comp tubulars.

Caution - they are made in Thailand.

I put them on, headed out for a ride and was thinking how really nice they rode. About 25 miles out the front tire absolutely exploded. Gone. Blew apart right at the base of the Valve.

I was looking at the second one of the two last night, still mounted on the bike. It has about 100 miles total on it.

I noticed that the rear tire, the still "good" one, has a Bubble right in the centre of the tread, turning white.

Deflated the tire, pumped it up again and sure enough - there's the bubble, only bigger.

Two tires.

$100 total.

one gave me 25 miles.

The other 100 miles.

They're both done.

I ride and like the Vred. clinchers, I suppose the $110 Fortezza Tri Comp Pros would be better, but still and all. You're putting your name on the tires. I haven't even had this happen with the $20 Clements.

Beware everyone.

fwiw - I've had mixed success with Challenge brand tubulars (can't say I'm super-impressed with their quality control). I've had better success with Clement Futurox (yes, made in asia) and Vittoria Rallys (Kevlar, also made in asia). I strongly recommend deflating the Clements between rides though.

rovals were made for time trialing...the most spokes that they came with was 24, and you find them more normally in 20 or 16(!). These aren't Rolfs with the big beefy rims. These babies were light. I have been riding a set (24x20) for a couple of years with no problem, but I don't ride 'em on anything rough, and don't go honking around the corners when I'm on 'em. They are fun, though.

Tufo Tape....who else has used it?

Let me relate a recent experience. I used Tufo extreme to install the tubies on my Ambrosio rims for the SLX Guerciotti. I tried it mostly because I always seem to make such a mess with glue. Anyway, put the tires on, lined 'em up, pulled out the tape. Rode a few weeks and yesterday while doing regular maintenance on the bike, noticed the rear tire was definitely not centered. "Well there," sez I. "You need to deal with that." So I proceed to try to remove the tire by hand. Not happening. Try again. Jeez...it looks like the bloody tape on the tire is coming off. Try another couple of spots. No go. That tire is on there. Good thing I did not need to change it out on the road as there was NFW that I was doing it without some leverage. I ended up using a BFS to pry the tire from the rim. Oh and the residue is fun to get off, also. There was probably enough residue there to remount the tire.

Back to glue for me...besides I figured out how to do it without making a mess.

I know the gatorskin sprinters are listed on Conti's web site but have not seen or heard of anyone riding them yet. Anyone have any first hand experience with them yet? Bob

well, I have a pair firmly stuck on - I didn't use the EXTREME stuff, though, just the cyclocross tape. I hope those tires last for ever, because I don't want to have to cut 'em off by the side of the road somewhere...

You guys have to mention this RIGHT after I spent $120 on regular sprinters, didn't you?