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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

adventurepdx 05-27-15 11:24 AM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 17839511)
Slower for 2 reasons - compared to the cheaper Kendas (with the raised centre) that run at higher pressures, and secondly the width. Like I said though, they ride nicely....just not "fast". Main issue is the low pressure and the trouble getting them here in my area.

Yeah, I had to search quite a bit online to get them. And yeah, the low max PSI was weird. 45 is acceptable for my 26" x 2.1" tires, but for 26" x 1 3/8"? I generally overinflated them, but still got flats.

noglider 05-27-15 12:47 PM

@ncrnelson, very very nice!

desconhecido 05-27-15 01:07 PM


Originally Posted by JohnDThompson (Post 17840740)
I have a couple SW hubs here. My experience with them is that they're very easy to overhaul -- fewer parts than the AW and no fiddly pawl springs to deal with -- but the springless pawls do not catch as reliably as the AW's sprung pawls. Most of the time this just means you might go half a crank rotation or more before they catch, but in cold weather the problem is exacerbated. When it gets below freezing you really can't count on them catching at all!

I also have an SW modified to use flat springs under the pawls in the manner Brian Hayes describes on Sheldon Brown's site. This works well, but the flat springs do wear because the pawls rock on them and eventually erode through the spring.

N.B. I do have a supply of SW spare parts, if you find you need something.

What's your opinion of the SW compared to an AW from the utility perspective? It would be nice to have a little lower first gear, but the difference between gears is greater than an AW and the biggest complaint I have with the AW is the difference between 2d and 3rd. I'd like the ratios to be a little closer. Perhaps that's a problem with my abilities rather than with the hub. I have a Sports that I recently put a 22 tooth cog on and can use 3rd more often, when the distance between stop signs/lights justifies it, but I'd still prefer a somewhat smaller gap.

Salubrious 05-27-15 01:25 PM

You might consider a 4-speed like the FW if you want a lower gear. Its a lot more reliable than the SW. The problem I had with the SW is it would let loose in 3rd gear, regardless of temperature.

It didn't occur to me until after I got rid of it that a different lubricant might have worked better in it.

ncrnelson 05-27-15 01:30 PM


Originally Posted by noglider (Post 17842006)
@ncrnelson, very very nice!

Thanks, it's not high end (although with a few more nice components here and there...), but it's probably the bike I'm most proud of.

JohnDThompson 05-27-15 02:43 PM


Originally Posted by desconhecido (Post 17842083)
What's your opinion of the SW compared to an AW from the utility perspective? It would be nice to have a little lower first gear, but the difference between gears is greater than an AW and the biggest complaint I have with the AW is the difference between 2d and 3rd. I'd like the ratios to be a little closer.

In that case, the SW isn't what you want: it has both a lower low and a higher high than the AW. The SW hub is 0.72/1.0/1.38 while the AW is 0.75/1.0/1.33

noglider 05-27-15 05:01 PM


Originally Posted by JohnDThompson (Post 17842473)
In that case, the SW isn't what you want: it has both a lower low and a higher high than the AW. The SW hub is 0.72/1.0/1.38 while the AW is 0.75/1.0/1.33

That seems like a small difference, but the gaps in an AW are too wide for me, too. I think the more vigorously you ride (and thus the better your conditioning), the closer you want your gears. It's a big reason I don't ride IGHs regularly.

SirMike1983 05-27-15 08:24 PM


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 17842162)
You might consider a 4-speed like the FW if you want a lower gear. Its a lot more reliable than the SW. The problem I had with the SW is it would let loose in 3rd gear, regardless of temperature.

It didn't occur to me until after I got rid of it that a different lubricant might have worked better in it.


Correct- an FW would do nicely for what he is describing.

BigChief 05-28-15 04:28 AM

Never had the opportunity to ride with a FW or AM hub. Overdrive on the AW is too high for me also. Right now, I'm having fun riding a 69 Sprite with a S5. It has two modes (wide ratio and close ratio) controlled by a two position shifter on the left side. After replacing the top tube stick shifters with a regular handlebar trigger, it works perfectly.The close ratio mode is what I've always wanted on a 3 speed. I haven't come up with a shifter for the left side yet. I'm too busy riding it in close ratio mode. I'll get to it someday. Not really missing the two extra gears.

greg3rd48 05-29-15 08:50 AM


Originally Posted by w1gfh (Post 17833800)

Great show!

dweenk 05-30-15 03:39 PM

4 Attachment(s)
I rode the sofa perched upon the seat post for a couple of days before I went to a real saddle. It's not a Brooks, but a Japanese B-15ish Fujita Belt model. I would like to find a B-66, but this will do for now. Second gear needed a bit of adjustment. It always worked up shifting from first, but sometimes found neutral down shifting from third.

I put a leather backpack that I bought from a college auction for a dollar on it and made a beer run. This one is definitely a keeper. I am going to ride it this summer and then address all of the bearings come late fall.

The only change I may make is a larger cog at the rear.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=454568http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=454569http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=454570http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=454571

smontanaro 05-30-15 05:32 PM

I like my Fujita. If you want to sell it after you find a B66, let me know.

gster 05-31-15 06:43 AM


Originally Posted by dweenk (Post 17851318)
I rode the sofa perched upon the seat post for a couple of days before I went to a real saddle. It's not a Brooks, but a Japanese B-15ish Fujita Belt model. I would like to find a B-66, but this will do for now. Second gear needed a bit of adjustment. It always worked up shifting from first, but sometimes found neutral down shifting from third.

I put a leather backpack that I bought from a college auction for a dollar on it and made a beer run. This one is definitely a keeper. I am going to ride it this summer and then address all of the bearings come late fall.

The only change I may make is a larger cog at the rear.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=454568http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=454569http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=454570http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=454571

A good looking bike.

dweenk 05-31-15 09:29 AM


Originally Posted by smontanaro (Post 17851544)
I like my Fujita. If you want to sell it after you find a B66, let me know.

I'm not sure what I'll do with it when I find a B-66, but I'll keep you in mind. It seems that it takes forever to break in a Belt saddle.

forestine 06-01-15 02:29 PM

I've noticed a few three speeds with front baskets on here. Has anyone had issues with the basket interfering with the front brake? I just got a really nice front basket and I can't actually seem to ride with anything in it, because the brake keeps half closing and squeaking on my wheel. Do I have to buy a zillion dollar front rack? Ughhhh.

gna 06-01-15 04:46 PM

Depends on the basket and how it's mounted. What basket are you using?

You may need to set your cables in a certain position.

markk900 06-01-15 06:01 PM


Originally Posted by forestine (Post 17856541)
I've noticed a few three speeds with front baskets on here. Has anyone had issues with the basket interfering with the front brake? I just got a really nice front basket and I can't actually seem to ride with anything in it, because the brake keeps half closing and squeaking on my wheel. Do I have to buy a zillion dollar front rack? Ughhhh.

Here's the mounting of a normal Wald basket on the 1956 Standard. Didn't take a lot to get to the point of almost 0 interference with cables:

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...psxz44vlro.jpg
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...psj8ihaha9.jpg
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps4fdngdaq.jpg

forestine 06-01-15 06:06 PM

@markk900 Thank you! So maybe I should replace the basket straps with some other hardware? Hmm. I might diy a bracket to stabilize it (woven basket).

markk900 06-01-15 06:13 PM

Have you got pictures of your current set up?

Edit: just looked at your blog - yes that basket set up like that is not going to work well! I think that particular style of woven basket is designed for coaster braked bikes (ie. nothing with cables up front!). I also expect you won't be able to put too too much into it anyway as there is no lower mount to hold the weight.

I know I have seen woven baskets at the LBS that come with standoffs, and one style that had a frame like on my wife's but the basket lifted free - but on your blog you said you didn't want a permanent mount so the easiest thing I think for your setup is a couple of metal straps (like the wald mounts in my picture) to push the bag away from the bars about 6".

nlerner 06-01-15 07:01 PM


Originally Posted by forestine (Post 17857130)
@markk900 Thank you! So maybe I should replace the basket straps with some other hardware? Hmm. I might diy a bracket to stabilize it (woven basket).

I can't tell from your blog pic if you have a Raleigh head lamp bracket on your bike:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1034/...052700e0b6.jpg

I've made use of those to offset a front basket a bit. It won't work as well as that Wald set up, but it should keep the basket from interfering with the brakes.

forestine 06-01-15 07:11 PM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 17857151)
Have you got pictures of your current set up?

Edit: just looked at your blog - yes that basket set up like that is not going to work well! I think that particular style of woven basket is designed for coaster braked bikes (ie. nothing with cables up front!). I also expect you won't be able to put too too much into it anyway as there is no lower mount to hold the weight.

I know I have seen woven baskets at the LBS that come with standoffs, and one style that had a frame like on my wife's but the basket lifted free - but on your blog you said you didn't want a permanent mount so the easiest thing I think for your setup is a couple of metal straps (like the wald mounts in my picture) to push the bag away from the bars about 6".


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 17857313)
I can't tell from your blog pic if you have a Raleigh head lamp bracket on your bike:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1034/...052700e0b6.jpg

I've made use of those to offset a front basket a bit. It won't work as well as that Wald set up, but it should keep the basket from interfering with the brakes.

Hey, that lamp mount is cool looking, I wouldn't care if that was permanent. I don't expect to put a lot of weight in the basket, but it would be nice for lighter groceries (bread or my water bottle). I have a rear rack that I use for heavier stuff. I'm mostly bummed that when I was basket shopping, nowhere I looked even suggested it might not work with the brakes (my other bike has coaster brakes, so it didn't occur to me). I'm also okay with a permanent stabilizer on the basket, which I will probably try soon. I think it just needs to be a tiny bit farther out than I had it. Thanks for your tips!

michaelz28 06-01-15 08:07 PM

i have a Wald basket that came with my bike . it was on it and the headlight had a handlebar mount as the factory mount with a light would hit the basket .i still have the factory mount that the headlight is on now as the basket is off . i almost threw the basket away .http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...psk6d1bija.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...psl9tjitae.jpg

forestine 06-01-15 08:36 PM

Oh hey, this guy uses a wooden block (scroll down a bit). That looks like it'll work in a pinch. Hmmm. I just ordered a heron light mount from Ebay because it's pretty cool, although my bike is a Glider, so it's heron-less. If it doesn't work, i'll try a block.

crank_addict 06-01-15 09:59 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Went to the biker bar tonight on my badazz Raleigh twenty full dresser. Got all rowdy, tried to pick up a chick, but rather she wanted my bike and told me to fly a kite. :p

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...8&d=1433217532

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...0&d=1433217535

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...1&d=1433217539

http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...2&d=1433217542


http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=455258http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=455260http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=455261http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=455262

BigChief 06-02-15 04:05 AM


Originally Posted by forestine (Post 17857580)
Oh hey, this guy uses a wooden block (scroll down a bit). That looks like it'll work in a pinch. Hmmm. I just ordered a heron light mount from Ebay because it's pretty cool, although my bike is a Glider, so it's heron-less. If it doesn't work, i'll try a block.

It will fit. The Glider should have a plain washer in place of the headlamp mount. Just swap em. nlerner's bike looks like it has a washer on top of the lamp mount, but mostly, Raleighs I've seen have the locking nut directly on the lamp mount.


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