That's an old, pre-Raleigh, Hercules. Looks nice.

So, I'm in a bike shop and this teenager comes out of the back....
 

Pushing his 1970 Sports, looked like showroom condition. I had to comment, and he's looking for the pins to re-attach his head badge. Beautiful green with gold decals. Dyno front hub. He got it from his father and was not sure the year, but it was a 60cm and way too big for him. No matter, it was his and he rode it. I struck up a conversation and he pulls out his phone to show a soft mint green Sprint? with matching frame pump, also with what looked like an OEM bottle dyno on the rear.

There's hope for this world.

So, I directed him here, his mom took down the bikeforums.net info and he's looking for the mounting pins/rivets, for his headbadge. I told him there may be people that can help. The only bike swap that really specializes in these parts was already held this year in Springfield (MO).

Minty. Nice small women's frame.

Thump, the rear sprockets shrink with time and wear - kinda like underwear!

I have a 1972 that same brown, but the finish is all dinged and a lot of the brown is rust. I'd like to fix it up for Mrs. Road Fan so she can ride the Lake Pepin with me next year. Maybe I'll just strip it down and have it powdered or may be I can get on Franklin's list for a delivery next January ...

Anybody know a source of good decals?

I think I have some #2 screws that will work. He needs three and I can mail them for free. Give me the mailing address.

I’ll get it from the shop, Billy Goat Bicycles, then get in touch.
Awesome of you.

That explains a lot of things.

Anyone know the part numbers for front hub axle cones?
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f91e9188b0.jpg

I've got some pitted ones in a Twenty I'm working up for my daughter.
I have a lead that has many NOS Sturmey parts, but they have them organized by part number and don't know what they have without a part number.

Interesting post, and fantastic picture, but I would bet simply a part number would not help. OEM information lost to time, and tracking any remaining inventory would be hard. Is the hub marked SA? Measurements similar to what is on this page might lets the holder of the parts measure id them. (Tried to post the Wheels Manufacturing cone measuring link, but I still have not reached the magical 10 posts on Bikeforums.)

Would be best to salvage some from another hub, or chuck up the used cones and regrind the bearing surface with some carbon sandpaper on a dowel. Following the radius. Not sure how hard they are, but if pitted at least it would cost less? Not having any of my 20s around, and if that picture shows the actual cones, it looks like they also have the dropout recess. I know Union supplied Raleigh with many of their early 70s steel hubs. Not as high quality as the SA or Raleigh factory hubs that I have seen.

I stole that picture from an old thread. Not from my bike, but just about every Raleigh 3 speed I've seen has similar cones with raised ring w/o locknuts.

I could buy another front wheel--I've bought several over the years just for the cones--but I'd prefer not to buy any more wheels.

They have parts in boxes--they're not going to measure anything. If I need a pawl spring, I tell them HSA-120 and they say yes or no. I need a number for the cones. Kurt's Headbadge page (https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_raleigh_sp_1_P2.html) has some old numbers, but none of them work...

gna : not sure if these are for your hub but better than guessing.....


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5569696c03.jpg

Here's the reference picture as well, however not sure it helps too much.....


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0e9968651e.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ec6fd29b11.jpg

Well, I bought a 1975 Raleigh Sports off eBay. The hub is stamped March 1974, frame serial number says May 1975, made in Handsworth (Birmingham). The shifter is still the clear cover version that would go with a 1974 hub. UPS dropped the box on the side or ran it over with a forklift or something, and the hub indicator chain and spindle were mangled and had to be replaced, but happily there was no other damage. The bike shop folks looked it over and made sure everything was tuned up. Everything is generally in great condition, very clean. I bet it wasn't ridden very much at all.

I'll probably want to get a slightly larger cog; the current one is 17t. I'll put Kool Stop Continental brake pads on and change the tires eventually. I'm thinking down the road I might get a bottle dynamo and move over the lights I had on my Pashley Roadster. Any recommendations on bottle dynamo models? And has anyone managed to somehow mount a modern headlight using the existing heron bracket?

I've only taken it around the block so far, and I still have to tweak the saddle and handlebar positions, but it's a lot of fun to ride. Much zippier than my Roadster was!

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...addf950687.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...464381d861.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...011235cd64.jpg

:beer: Your Sports looks fantastic!
I've found that modernbike.com has a decent selection of SA parts for reasonable prices. I just saw a 20t chrome splined cog available, so you should be able to reduce that gearing.

As far as bottle dynamos go, you could check a bike coop free shop to see if they have some. The one I used to volunteer with before COVID had a milk crate full of bottle dynamos and lights. They'd probably pay you to take them, if they could. I get the charm of the bottle dynamo set, but I'm no fan of how poorly they function compared to battery lights. You get 1) dim light 2) only while moving, while the dynamo 3) adds a good bit of drag.

That said, I'm still considering trying an LED retrofit with standlight capacity utilizing the dynamo and existing fittings. I just have to decipher the electrical diagrams first.:foo:

In terms of cogs, the chromed steel ones made for Shimano Nexus also have the S-A 3-spline pattern and are usually available for less than 10 USD:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/32230971314...mis&media=COPY

Man that looks great!

I raised and angled my saddle, and I tried to raise the handlebars but I couldn't get the stem to release. Is there a knack to this that I'm missing? I loosened the stem bolt and gave it a few raps with a rubber mallet but I couldn't get it to budge. It's weird because it was shipped to me with the stem out, and the bike shop greased it and installed it, so I don't understand why it would be seized up only a few days later.

I shouldn't need to loosen the nut on top of the light bracket, right? Isn't that the headset locknut?

You need only loosen the stem bolt. Makes me wonder if they did pull it and grease. Drizzle lubricant down the bolt hole and if that doesn't work, flip it upside down and do the underside. Also, a hammer with a block of hardwood is better than rubber.

I've had to whack stem bolts pretty good with a non-marring mallet once they're torqued properly. I understand your reluctance, but just give it a good, straight whack with the front wheel on the ground.

Yep, that's all it needed, just not being too gentle about it and giving it a solid whack with a rubber mallet. Got the saddle and bars raised and it rides great now. I think I will get a larger cog because I'm not using the high gear on the straight and level. The brakes shriek, but I'll try to deal with that when I put the Kool Stops on. Other than that I'm pretty happy about it.

Toe-in!

Loop Turista for $50 in PA!

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...34878137398811

https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...Jg&oe=62D7DAB1

I've swapped out the cogs on most of my bikes, 19,20 and 21T.
You'll need a new chain as well but it's worth it.
Nice lookin' bike.

This Pashley Roadster 3 speed came back the other day for some TLC...
The owner is not the hands on type.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...669f0ddeb0.jpg
I fixed a few things but what's interesting is the saddle.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ef95c0fcb0.jpg
It's an old Dunlop rubber? saddle. I included it in sale because the original leather saddle would have pushed the price too far,
It's very resiliant considering it's age. 60 years +
It must be real rubber.
When | sell a bike, I usually discount the price by $100 if I keep the leather saddle...