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Originally Posted by Velocivixen
(Post 19482153)
I have a question or two. Last spring I bought an all original, green Raleigh Twenty with the front G6 dynohub. The chrome is very good, etc.. It was a mess, cosmetically thought from a grunge factor.
So I dove in, took it apart, spent hours & days cleaning, polishing, waxing, removing rust. Replaced cables/housings/pads, new tires, repacked all bearings, trued wheels....you know the deal. All I had to do was reinstall the rear fender & Plescher rack and I'd be done. By that time I was on R20 overload, and just set it aside. It's been months....fenders are finicky and I don't enjoy installing them. How do I get my mojo back for this project? I've worked on other projects since then, but this little gem just sits there... Separate question: the anti rotation washers on the bike are worn down & I can easily get some from the co-op. How important is it that these washers are robust? Specifically, the raised section that keeps the axle from rotation has smoothed down along their edges as well as thinned down. Thanks |
Originally Posted by Velocivixen
(Post 19482153)
I have a question or two. Last spring I bought an all original, green Raleigh Twenty with the front G6 dynohub. The chrome is very good, etc.. It was a mess, cosmetically thought from a grunge factor.
So I dove in, took it apart, spent hours & days cleaning, polishing, waxing, removing rust. Replaced cables/housings/pads, new tires, repacked all bearings, trued wheels....you know the deal. All I had to do was reinstall the rear fender & Plescher rack and I'd be done. By that time I was on R20 overload, and just set it aside. It's been months....fenders are finicky and I don't enjoy installing them. How do I get my mojo back for this project? I've worked on other projects since then, but this little gem just sits there... Separate question: the anti rotation washers on the bike are worn down & I can easily get some from the co-op. How important is it that these washers are robust? Specifically, the raised section that keeps the axle from rotation has smoothed down along their edges as well as thinned down. Thanks |
Oh, and about the anti rotation washers. If they're scruffy at all, I change them. Ever notice there's two types? I find it handy to have both types available. One has a large wall that extends across the full diameter of the washer and the other has a very short wall next to the center hole that allows for more chain adjustment. Using the short walled washers can sometimes save you from having to use a half link when you run out of room in the dropout.
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@BigChief - Thanks for the info and feedback. I've got projects to share, but don't always post because they're not a lot different from others I've done. But I know we all adore lots and lots of photos.
In Portland there is one particular co-op called City Bikes Coop. They have literally drawers and buckets full of SA parts. What I learned from someone who used to own the place before it became a coop is that it was a bike shop which specifically focused on internally geared 3-speeds! Apparently beck then more folks were riding bikes with SA hubs and this was the shop who could fix them. I believe in the '60's & '70's. Anyway if I require a part, no matter how esoteric, they will have a drawer dedicated to it! I have noticed the different type of AR washers. The ones on this bike are very smoothed down and I highly doubt that under load they would work. I can always "borrow" some off one of the unused hubs I have languishing....I overhaul them then put them in plastic with a note saying when it was overhauled. |
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Went to the co-op for a front derailleur and a handlebar suitable for a three-speed and saw this out front. It had just arrived and the guy named a price ridiculously cheap for a Tourist. It's complete but the rims are rusty, 22" frame and hub date of '80. No room for it, no time for it and I don't particularly like these bikes, so of course I now have another one. I may not keep it for long, especially if the bride finds out it's here.
Attachment 558090 |
I think that's an excellent find, but I'm very fond of these bikes. A 22" frame is rare. I'm lucky to be tall enough to ride a 24" because they seem to always be tall frames. Until now. There's no way around the expense of replacing those Westwoods, but this bike looks to be worth it.
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I was checking the old Raleigh catalogs online. I can't find any reference to gents DL-1s in 22" frame size. I know they were available in the UK, but from what I can tell, they were only available in the US in 24". This bike would be a real treasure to someone who had their hart set on a traditional rod brake roadster but wasn't tall enough for the 24".
http://www.bulgier.net/pics/bike/Cat...39;Tourist.jpg |
Kind of an interesting 23" Superbe on Boston's CL for $125:
https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bik/6072926422.html Don't think that rear hub is original! |
Originally Posted by Velocivixen
(Post 19482153)
I have a question or two. Last spring I bought an all original, green Raleigh Twenty with the front G6 dynohub. The chrome is very good, etc.. It was a mess, cosmetically thought from a grunge factor.
So I dove in, took it apart, spent hours & days cleaning, polishing, waxing, removing rust. Replaced cables/housings/pads, new tires, repacked all bearings, trued wheels....you know the deal. All I had to do was reinstall the rear fender & Plescher rack and I'd be done. By that time I was on R20 overload, and just set it aside. It's been months....fenders are finicky and I don't enjoy installing them. How do I get my mojo back for this project? I've worked on other projects since then, but this little gem just sits there... Separate question: the anti rotation washers on the bike are worn down & I can easily get some from the co-op. How important is it that these washers are robust? Specifically, the raised section that keeps the axle from rotation has smoothed down along their edges as well as thinned down. Thanks There will be growth in the spring and all will be fine in the garden. |
I have a 1978 DL-1 in the smaller frame size - great bike. Bought it for $100 some years back. Some of the plastic bits have had to be replaced over the years. Good bike though. Don't balk at the smaller size when it comes up - the 24 inch is more common. Buy the first good small frame that comes across at a reasonable price if you're looking for one. You may have to wait awhile before you see another for sale.
https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lhF-1xyCB...828_181112.jpg https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8ZzE43Z_T...828_170839.jpg |
@gster - yes, regardless of how harsh the Winter, Spring guarantees a fresh start and renewal.
@SirMike1983 - very nice bike. Quite "stately". |
Ah, I didn't look far enough. The gents 22" DL-1 first appears in the 1977 US catalog. So after many years of shipping only 24" gents frames to America, they reintroduced the 22" in the last 3 years of production. That explains their rarity.
Great looking Roadster @SirMike |
Why does anyone even bother to advertise a bike for sale for ten dollars? Regardless, a good deal for somebody and it looks like a 23" frame.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/6059296948.html Raleigh Glider Bike - $10 https://images.craigslist.org/00v0v_...I_1200x900.jpg Needs work done to it but could be a fun project or useful to someone for parts. Asking $10 or best offer |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 19485436)
I think that's an excellent find, but I'm very fond of these bikes. A 22" frame is rare. I'm lucky to be tall enough to ride a 24" because they seem to always be tall frames. Until now. There's no way around the expense of replacing those Westwoods, but this bike looks to be worth it.
I figure the rusty rims are a plus if they help improve the braking. |
Originally Posted by thumpism
(Post 19488070)
I figure the rusty rims are a plus if they help improve the braking.
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Welp, I ended up getting myself another 3-speed off Craigslist.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachmen...402_184706.jpg https://scontent.fsnc1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...93&oe=595F5A09 It's a "Popular Sports Model" . Rides great, steers stops and shifts. I'm not sure what year it is, the Sturmey Archer hub says "6 11" on it. Anyone know anything about the maker? |
Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 19487215)
Kind of an interesting 23" Superbe on Boston's CL for $125:
https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bik/6072926422.html Don't think that rear hub is original! |
Originally Posted by exdraghunt
(Post 19488544)
Anyone know anything about the maker?
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Originally Posted by thumpism
(Post 19488062)
Why does anyone even bother to advertise a bike for sale for ten dollars? Regardless, a good deal for somebody and it looks like a 23" frame.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/6059296948.html Raleigh Glider Bike - $10 https://images.craigslist.org/00v0v_...I_1200x900.jpg Needs work done to it but could be a fun project or useful to someone for parts. Asking $10 or best offer |
Nice bike. It's a Nottingham built Raleigh, but it has Birmingham style fenders. I'm going to take a guess and say Raleigh used left over fenders from their purchase of Hercules in 1960. So the bike would date to sometime close to then.
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Originally Posted by thumpism
(Post 19488062)
Why does anyone even bother to advertise a bike for sale for ten dollars? Regardless, a good deal for somebody and it looks like a 23" frame.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/6059296948.html Raleigh Glider Bike - $10 https://images.craigslist.org/00v0v_...I_1200x900.jpg Needs work done to it but could be a fun project or useful to someone for parts. Asking $10 or best offer |
Originally Posted by RaleighBikeGuy
(Post 19489067)
I've never heard of the "Popular" badge, but I would assume your bike was built by Raleigh at their factory in Nottingham.This one is clean!
The seller says he got it through an estate sale, seems to me it was either never ridden or just barely. When I got it, there wasn't a speck of road grime anywhere, even the hubs. Some other pics https://68.media.tumblr.com/3fc76850...d9ko3_1280.jpghttps://68.media.tumblr.com/941cdeaa...d9ko2_1280.jpg It looks to me like the second digit of the year on the hub wasn't stamped fully. Maybe a '61? (It also has the 'upside-down' Sturmey logo on the shifter) https://68.media.tumblr.com/085600e4...d9ko4_1280.jpg |
The old rim brakes have been a bit of a fuzz, but once I discovered brake blocks suitable for steel and chromed rims it got a bit easier. I like the hub brake versions, but I think I've only seen those on roadster type bikes. I have yet to find a good way about the cottered cranks.
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I had a Popular Special briefly, which I passed on. It was just like the other Raleighs, no better, no worse.
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Originally Posted by Mickey2
(Post 19491109)
The old rim brakes have been a bit of a fuzz, but once I discovered brake blocks suitable for steel and chromed rims it got a bit easier. I like the hub brake versions, but I think I've only seen those on roadster type bikes. I have yet to find a good way about the cottered cranks.
The roadsters have 170mm cranks but the other bikes are 165mm. |
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