Newbaums cloth tape tips/tricks?
 

Any taping tips when using the Newbaums cloth tape? I have never wrapped with the Newbaums (non padded) cloth before.

2 layers?
Top to bottom?
Bottom to top?
Any special wrap pattern?
Special tips to wrap around levers as there are no hoods.
Etc.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3bd1d3fd7a.jpg
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Last thing to wrap up the Bottecchia project!

If I recall, I went bottom to top last time: nothing special. Might need some electrical tape to finish off.

It's easy to use, quality product. One layer, but I guess you know it won't be as cushy as modern tapes. Bottom to top is most durable but BITD it wasn't unusual to wrap top to bottom. You may have to experiment around the levers but IIRC the length is relatively generous.

Yes, very basic. I do end to center, I wrap toward the out, on the straits tape overlaps about 1/3, 1/2 lap inside the curves never lapping 3 layers maybe 3mm lap on the outer curves, a couple of tabs for gaps at the levers. I keep taught throughout, then cut a long taper at the end.

I finish with a grip tape, I think it's an electrical silicone/cloth tape. Similar to hockey stick tape I think.

cloth wrap.
 

keep an eye out for gaps and remember it won't stretch like conventional wrap.took me about 3 times longer- patience is key.back in the day it maybe have been applied top to bottom if your going for originality.
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If you do two or more layers, don't waste the Newbaum's on the first layers. Get some hockey tape if you want to build up the thickness, and then do the Newbaum's as the last layer.

I do bottom-to-top, but good arguments can be made for either.

If you do bottom-to-top and need to finish off the wrap with electrical tape, go to the hardware store and get the best 3M tape they have. The cheap stuff has crappy adhesive that doesn't hold, and also melts and oozes out, making a mess. The good 3M tape comes in five or six different colors, too.

The adhesive on Newbaum tapes is pretty strong and can mess up the tape if you try pulling it off while doing the wrap to adjust overlap because it will severely stretch out the cloth weave and distort the tape's width. So be very careful you get your overlaps right when wrapping your handlebar as you only have one shot to get it right.

Cut a bit of innertube and slide that on right up to the stem before wrapping bottom-to-top; wrap TIGHT; tape the end of the cloth at the top to the bar so it'll stay tight, and slide/roll the inner-tube bit over the end to make it tidy:


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...83abef1681.jpg

A guy I met at a LBS one time had a MBK or something and he said he used medical gauze as an under layer for padding. I wondered if it moved and he said it stayed put...guess the adhesive melted into the weave or something.

Might be an interesting experiment.

Shellac after wrapping and it won't matter whether you start at the top or the bottom.

Here's a real honest to goodness French setup that might help in your situation. These bars were from an eBay France purchase. I use it to display some bells.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0c4af38439.jpg
Came with the handlebar bag

All of this... And I wrap top to bottom for the reason that my boomers were wrapped that way. I'd love to do the shellac like Gugie described, but for the sake of originality I've never owned a vintage bike worthy of that treatment.

I never wet tape but it has been suggested that doing so helps. None the less, this is what I manage to achieve with cloth tape, which I find to be hard to wrap with. Anyway...
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The problem comes when one tries to wrap, cleanly, around the brake lever mounts. I avoid this problem by positioning the mounts exactly where they are the most comfortable for me. I actually test ride the bike to ensure the lever location is where I want. Then, I secure the mount strap in place with PVC tape. I also use a bit of silicone seal to properly position the housing and make starting the mountain bold easier. Much easier.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7430fa545f.jpg

The basics of wrapping are simple. Decide if you want to start from middle to end or visa versa. With cloth tape, I wrap from middle to end, these days. As a rule, the cloth is thin enough to allow me to tuck it inside the handlebar end, whether I use bar ends...
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a91fb694ad.jpg

Or end caps...
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9d55dbde65.jpg

What solvents/techniques work for removing the sticky residue that is left behind when removing Newbaums that has been on the bars for a long time and many miles?
Brent

I try cooking oil in cases like this before moving on the harsher things.

Good looking job. Do you run an old inner tube along the handlebar and tape over it?

I'm getting ready to tape a bike with Newbaum's. I may use this stuff underneath:

https://www.amazon.com/Fizik-Bar-Fou...%2C112&sr=8-32

I've used it before with cork tape. It's not bad stuff and will provide some extra cush where it's needed. I do find Velox Tressostar tape easier to work with than Newbaum's.

90% alcohol & synthetic steel wool.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...69489103dd.jpg

Its the only tape I use. I got top to bottom have never wet it. I overlap about 1/4 as I wrap, maybe a little more. If you're going to double wrap then just spring for their padded cloth tape which is just a little thicker, but I don't love the look of that. Don't forget to cut a small piece off to cover there area where the hoods sit.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...605e1d7979.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1deb6f19d3.jpg

https://grepp.cc/collections/cloth-handlebar-tapes

I wanted cloth but didn’t want unpadded tape so I got some of this. The tape is cloth and padded but uses little silicone dots to hold it in place. It provides about as much padding a Brooks leather but with a bit more grip when dry.

I wrapped bottom to top and used no tape to finish it off. It is a track bike with no brake levers so it was pretty easy.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...559113fb35.jpg

I like to finish off all my bar tape (as well as on former customers’ bikes back when I worked at a shop) using waxed leather working lace. Heavy waxed bookbinders thread works as well. The waxed thread for leather working is extremely strong and will hold through all kinds of weather, it looks really nice when done correctly as well.

I wrap with either of these two tapes (bottom to top, in-out):

Newbaum's
- No figure 8
- Cut a small cover for the lever clamp
- No finishing tape
- Cut the end at the top straight across
- End under the bar.

Fizik Classic
- Toss clamp covers in the trash
- Figure 8 over the lever
- Cut end diagonally at bar sleeve
- Finish with 9mm wide strip of Fizik finishing tape.

Pretty sure Brent can't buy 90% alcohol easily in California anymore.

But why is it necessary to remove residue?

Not necessarily answering the OP's question, but here's how i do it (with or without the jazz music in the background).

The paper backing over the adhesive strip can be bothersome and if you should drop the roll while wrapping, it all unwinds. This is not a problem with Tressostar tape since there is no paper backing, but your color choices are limited..

Now I tear off 12 - 15" of the paper backing and re-roll just enough so the roll won't unwind should I drop it. That way I can focus on getting the wrap the way I want.