Perhaps this is a wacky idea, but how about using a rear brake on the front and attaching the nut to the mounting bolt inside of the fork crown (thus bypassing the misaligned rear hole on the crown)?

Hey quick question,
Is this kickstand a Raleigh thing or anyone know the manufacturer, i love this one and the one on my 64 sucks...lol

I'd like to find another if possible, is it a axle kickstand or?

https://flic.kr/p/YKuK4z

I cant get img linking from flickr to work :(

I think that reads like a sound decision. Keep an eye on it now an again.

Got back home and had some time for fun. Threw some parts on the Raleigh frame I will use for my scorcher. About got them all cept a few.

Took some study shots. Last one shows what the 73' brakes look like without all that self tightening mechanism on the front.

Honestly it's probably best to either weld up the hole and make a new one, or bend the new brake's bolt just like the old one was and pretend it's fine. If raleigh did it you can do it.

what pump is that? Id like to find a pump to fit my pump pegs on my sports. I know they are not the best but they complete the look. Nice bike by the way....

@scale it's a Bluemmel from England I got from @Flog00 it was missing the hose but I found one at the LBS here. Works great. Thanks!, the bike is a fun work in progress.

That's a very good looking bike. That stem is what I'm looking for, to finish my 61 scorcher....

I pulled it off my 61 Rudge 10 speed. It is a Raleigh branded item and the clamp area works with North Road bars. I will keep an eye out for one at the LBS I haunt. I am their shop ghost!

Thx,
I have a couple on other bikes but I don't want to start stripping complete projects.

I agree. Lucky enough I needed a little more reach on the Rudge so I found a GB stem and steel bar for it. That freed the chrome stem for the sport which also gave me a little more reach there.

That looks like the rear stand that came on the Fuji Cambridge III and the Cambridge VI back in the '80s. That one looks pretty grody and I've only ever seen shiny ones. On my own Raleigh Sports the one I use is a Greenfield alloy rear axle stand in black.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_P7m8p3pz-z...0/IMG_0682.jpg

Pic assist:
Attachment 581871

Thanks!

Would this be the one your using?
https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...pouch-packaged

Wow, that is beautiful. Brings back so many memories. Although my teenage scorcher was nowhere near as slick as this. Wish I could flip the bars on my new scorcher, but I know how my back would feel after a half hour or so.
I needed cable adjusters for the calipers on my green Sports after I ditched the self adjuster levers. Luckily I found some in my parts box. A bit rusty but useable.

Correct. Works fine.

It is a solid idea. The only problem I envision with it is tightening the nut up inside the fork tube. Not much space in there. The other end of the bolt is a shallow screwdriver slot. With the right box wrench, it might just work.

Cable adjusters! Doh! I'm sure it would have occurred to me at some moment in time. Back to the bins! Thanks @BigChief

So I pulled my 73 sport out today and while I was spinning the back wheel like I was riding and coasting was fine but if I move the pedals back like if it were a coaster brake It sounds like a metal groaning which I feel is due to it having probably no lubricant left in it as when I got the the hub was covered in a thick black layer of what I assumed was grease.

Again it sound normal riding forward but reversing the pedal rotation cause a intermittent deep scraping / grinding sound

It has the fill cap but I worry that it’s broken or isn’t sealing

So is the hub dead , is this normal or is it rebuild time?

The bin doth give bounty! This should give me cable adjustment after taking the auto adjusting feature off the brake lever.

All AW hubs make some noise, some much more than others. I've had the hub apart on my 72 DL1 twice and haven't been able to calm down the runch-runch sound it makes while coasting with the crank at certain positions. Move the crank a bit and it calms down. Most hubs do this to a degree, but this one is particularly noisy. Everything in that hub is cleaned, degreased, oiled and in good order. I write it down to a misalignment somewhere. Seems like lots of things came out of Nottingham misaligned in the 70s. Been riding this bike a lot for a year now and with the exception of the noise it works fine. Wouldn't hurt to service the hub. You could also swap in the guts from another AW into your hub shell. I was thinking of that for my roadster.

Monkey See, Monkey Do
 

I stopped by George from Parts Unknown and picked up an extended stem for $5.00. Not exactly what I'm looking for but will work as a place holder for now. I had to make a little leather shim to clamp the bars down.
Overall a big improvement.
Attachment 581930

Attachment 581931

Reality has set in. Not going to be a simple swap for the adjuster. Way I see it, I have two options.
1. Drill the brake arm hole from .30 to .92 insert adjuster

2. Use the base of the Raleigh cable holder, drill and tap that hole to accept the replacements cable adjuster stop.

Time for me to think. It has to be done since I have taken away any means of adjusting the cable with the brake levers now.

Hey, I like bananas, and I like that machine of yours! Wish mine was that far along.

I may be one of the few people who actually like the self-adjusters. I have a set on my '74 Sports and they work nicely. They take a little of the "feel" out of braking because they auto-set the brake lever travel, but that doesn't bother me. I would not add them to earlier bikes that lacked the adjusters, but I left them on this sports, and they do fine.

Yes, I don't dislike them either, I just did not want them on the scorcher build. I used these for another build and they did fine.