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Originally Posted by Salubrious
(Post 20866707)
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Hercules Progress
The rear tyre has been fitted. It was a bit of a struggle that included warming the tire over the heating vent.... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...272a8ae6cd.jpg The frame's been painted and some reassembly has started. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9773a9833c.jpg I'm trying to take my time with this project and not rush. |
Good on ya’ Looks like the effort so far will be worth the time! |
Just a random FWIW...
I commute on my '72 Superbe. Lately I've been dealing with a stripped nut on the rear axle. This would cause the rear wheel to engage the left chain stay in a rather disconcerting fashion. On my bike this is a two piece affair of a regular nut and then the indicator bit which is a threaded cylinder with a hole drilled through it, part of Raleigh's on-going 'penny wise pound foolish' tendency at the time. I was thinking I would have to replace the axle in the hub as well. Turned out that was not the case. The nut had simply stripped; upon doing so this put all the forces on the 'indicator nut' portion which then fractured. When I removed the two I found that the axle appeared alright (yay!) so simply cleaning the axle of the swarf from the old parts and installing an old-school single-piece indicator nut was all that was needed to set things right. Its my opinion that the two piece indicator nut system should be ditched in favor of the old school single piece indicator nut as the older part appears to be machined from better steel and is less likely to strip. Fortunately also the axle itself is made from better material as well else this could have been a real pain in the rear. So in addition to the metal pulley and fulcrum clip that jon@gentlemancyclist.com offers, obtaining this nut as well is a good idea if the bike is intended as a rider and part of the family. The newer nut system IMO is less reliable and could lead to a stripped axle. |
Originally Posted by Salubrious
(Post 20868069)
Just a random FWIW...
I commute on my '72 Superbe. Lately I've been dealing with a stripped nut on the rear axle. This would cause the rear wheel to engage the left chain stay in a rather disconcerting fashion. On my bike this is a two piece affair of a regular nut and then the indicator bit which is a threaded cylinder with a hole drilled through it, part of Raleigh's on-going 'penny wise pound foolish' tendency at the time. I was thinking I would have to replace the axle in the hub as well. Turned out that was not the case. The nut had simply stripped; upon doing so this put all the forces on the 'indicator nut' portion which then fractured. When I removed the two I found that the axle appeared alright (yay!) so simply cleaning the axle of the swarf from the old parts and installing an old-school single-piece indicator nut was all that was needed to set things right. Its my opinion that the two piece indicator nut system should be ditched in favor of the old school single piece indicator nut as the older part appears to be machined from better steel and is less likely to strip. Fortunately also the axle itself is made from better material as well else this could have been a real pain in the rear. So in addition to the metal pulley and fulcrum clip that jon@gentlemancyclist.com offers, obtaining this nut as well is a good idea if the bike is intended as a rider and part of the family. The newer nut system IMO is less reliable and could lead to a stripped axle. Also, those nuts are designed to fail/strip before damaging the axle threads. Back then, you bought a bike for life. |
Hercules Progress
Had a good day assembling/packing bearings etc. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...baa49375de.jpg All was going well until I realised I'd forgotten to attach this brake rod pivot piece... https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ae0f23da5f.jpg It wasn't that big a deal. The BB was only finger tight. As usual, I got ahead of myself. |
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...13058ea2f.jpeg Are the bulbs blown, we shall see! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6c96ebddb.jpeg Besides the lights, changed the grips, removed the bell and used a small leather saddlebag. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5f5472786.jpeg Added a bell, changed the bag, installed the original rack Rolled out for a coffee run on my Twenty folder this morning. Calm before the homeschool day! Late afternoon I installed the Miller light system I got from my buddy Ken. Is it too fancy for a scorcher, do you think? Testing it out tomorrow hopefully. |
Originally Posted by 3speedslow
(Post 20868315)
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...13058ea2f.jpeg Are the bulbs blown, we shall see! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6c96ebddb.jpeg Besides the lights, changed the grips, removed the bell and used a small leather saddlebag. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5f5472786.jpeg Added a bell, changed the bag, installed the original rack Rolled out for a coffee run on my Twenty folder this morning. Calm before the homeschool day! Late afternoon I installed the Miller light system I got from my buddy Ken. Is it too fancy for a scorcher, do you think? Testing it out tomorrow hopefully. Perhaps there's a new term to use for an upgraded scorcher. Scorcher Deluxe? Great looking bike. My only comment is to flatten out the trigger... |
@gster Will do, got put that way when I was installing the grips and moving things forward. Not sure I am happy with them. A Scorcher Deluxe... possible! |
Originally Posted by 3speedslow
(Post 20868315)
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5f5472786.jpeg Added a bell, changed the bag, installed the original rack Rolled out for a coffee run on my Twenty folder this morning. Calm before the homeschool day! Late afternoon I installed the Miller light system I got from my buddy Ken. Is it too fancy for a scorcher, do you think? Testing it out tomorrow hopefully. I just picked up a raliegh 20 in a real sad state. I'm hoping to do some improvements on it. What kind of wheels do you have on yours? |
Mine being an English market bike, it has the 451 sized 20”. The PO had new tires put on before he decided it just wasn’t for him. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fa064689a.jpeg Would love to see pics of your new R20. Is it a folder or shopper? I really got lucky with this one, the condition was quite nice and I already had the good stuff to put on it. Other then reversing some previous mechanics’s fumbleing, it is in fine running order. |
Originally Posted by 3speedslow
(Post 20868384)
Mine being an English market bike, it has the 451 sized 20”. The PO had new tires put on before he decided it just wasn’t for him. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fa064689a.jpeg Would love to see pics of your new R20. Is it a folder or shopper? I really got lucky with this one, the condition was quite nice and I already had the good stuff to put on it. Other then reversing some previous mechanics’s fumbleing, it is in fine running order. Mine is a single speed but the rims are pretty rusty. I'm considering having my 4 speed hub built into some new rims. If I like the ride of it I'll look into repainting. That is if cleaning the rust off the frame leaves anything to ride haha |
Sad raliegh 20
[MENTION=207730]3speedslow[/MENTION]
Heres my foldable 20. Got it for 40 bucks, I've been wanting one and the price was right for something to try and customize and modify. First order of business is too clean the rust off and see if anything is left to ride underneath haha suggested for rust of this level? Next order is tires, suggestions in a good source SJS cycles seems to have some choices, the CR18s seem a good choice. These are for kids bikes I think? Too weak I'm pretty sure, granted I only think that because they are 8 bucks and that seems too good to be true. I'm also going to need to do some modification so it can fit me. At 6' 2 even all the way up the seat and bars aren't quite high enough. Any suggestions on that? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f8858ba2fc.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...756a514c59.jpg The rust on the support joints is scary rough. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...63a79b7775.jpg |
Still like to see pics when you can! Does your frame fold? Sounds like you have a shopper , maybe. Did it come with the mudguards, chaingaurd? get it rideable before spending the bucks on it. So many possible outcomes for these little scamps. I choose to keep this one mostly original but some here have done wild mods to the Twenty. The aluminium rim change would be the first best upgrade if you plan on keeping it along with new brake pads. Welcome to the R20 club. Great to see a new(er) member! Edit: beat me to the download... |
That frame needs a rust removal bath! OX or evaporust. If at all possible, do a ride first. |
Originally Posted by Buellster
(Post 20868433)
[MENTION=207730]3speedslow[/MENTION]
Heres my foldable 20. Got it for 40 bucks, I've been wanting one and the price was right for something to try and customize and modify. First order of business is too clean the rust off and see if anything is left to ride underneath haha suggested for rust of this level? Next order is tires, suggestions in a good source SJS cycles seems to have some choices, the CR18s seem a good choice. These are for kids bikes I think? Too weak I'm pretty sure, granted I only think that because they are 8 bucks and that seems too good to be true. I'm also going to need to do some modification so it can fit me. At 6' 2 even all the way up the seat and bars aren't quite high enough. Any suggestions on that? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f8858ba2fc.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...756a514c59.jpg The rust on the support joints is scary rough. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...63a79b7775.jpg |
My Raleigh Twenty has disappeared from my basement! I'm annoyed but not completely upset. I hadn't worked on it in a long time.
[MENTION=330095]Salubrious[/MENTION], the axle nuts are made of soft material so that they will strip easily. This is by design so that you won't strip the axle, because replacing the axle is a big-ish job. |
Pix aren't great and the price is too high, but it looks like a nice little CB 3-speed bike.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...855003412.html 1974? Raleigh 3 speed ladies bicycle - $200 (The fan)https://images.craigslist.org/00r0r_...Zc_600x450.jpg https://images.craigslist.org/00404_...lo_600x450.jpg bicycle frame material: steel bicycle type: road frame size: Medium wheel size: other/unknown Vintage Raleigh 3 speed bicycle Sturmey Archer 3 speed rear hub Shifts through gears and brakes look good. Needs new inner tubes to be rideable and a good cleaning. Brooks saddle Overall great shape for its age, just needs someone to love it $200 Call or text 804-221-six nine four three |
Originally Posted by thumpism
(Post 20868958)
Pix aren't great and the price is too high, but it looks like a nice little CB 3-speed bike.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...855003412.html 1974? Raleigh 3 speed ladies bicycle - $200 (The fan) |
Originally Posted by noglider
(Post 20868650)
[MENTION=330095]Salubrious[/MENTION], the axle nuts are made of soft material so that they will strip easily. This is by design so that you won't strip the axle, because replacing the axle is a big-ish job.
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Squeaking from the BB of my Sports step-thru so yesterday with the aid of a borrowed cotter press I opened it up to do an overhaul and what a mess. The crank-side bearing retainer was in pieces. All cleaned, the inside of the fixed cup looks like crumpled aluminum foil. Spindle not so hot either on both sides. I slathered on as much grease as I could get in there and put it back together. It's a little rough (surprise!) but will do I guess. Not exactly a high performance machine. But I'll have to start thinking about getting the new parts to make it right, eventually. Funny my Rudge needs a new spindle, too. But that's because the flat for the left-side cotter is worn down, or some vandal filed it, perhaps.
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Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20869043)
Squeaking from the BB of my Sports step-thru so yesterday with the aid of a borrowed cotter press I opened it up to do an overhaul and what a mess. The crank-side bearing retainer was in pieces. All cleaned, the inside of the fixed cup looks like crumpled aluminum foil. Spindle not so hot either on both sides. I slathered on as much grease as I could get in there and put it back together. It's a little rough (surprise!) but will do I guess. Not exactly a high performance machine. But I'll have to start thinking about getting the new parts to make it right, eventually. Funny my Rudge needs a new spindle, too. But that's because the flat for the left-side cotter is worn down, or some vandal filed it, perhaps.
As far as I know, Raleigh never used caged bearings. Considering that this Hercules is 89 years old, the BB was in very good shape. If I had a front wheel for it, it could be back on the road this weekend. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3beae61a6f.jpg |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 20869143)
Sounds like some bad maintenance in the past.
As far as I know, Raleigh never used caged bearings. |
Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20869155)
Well then. Now I know who caused this, when, and how much they charged me.
This Tourist had caged bearings. But I doubt it came from the factory that way. Just watched this and I can't believe that he re assembled the BB with the plastic cages.... Yeah, there's some bad "mechanics" out there. In my search for a 28 x 1 1/2 rim, I stopped into a bike shop down the street. One of the older "mechanics" said with authority that "That rim doesn't exist". I pointed out that I had 7 of them at home and that there were probably at least 20 million of them out there. |
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