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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

photogravity 01-14-12 08:19 PM


Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 13720628)
Stunning bike pg...

Thanks Keith. :) I am SOOO glad you started this thread! The fact this thread gets bumped as much as it does shows how in tune you were to the need for this topic. "No ordinary man" indeed! ;)

hagen2456 01-14-12 09:06 PM


Originally Posted by photogravity (Post 13720044)
i think i may have posted this in its previous incarnation, but here is my 1956 hercules royal prince after some additional polish and spit-shining. I am really happy to have gotten rid of the wald fender stays...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7032/6...afe39ef0_b.jpg
1956 hercules royal prince - the evolution - 13 by sallad rialb, on flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7170/6...941b3ca4_b.jpg
1956 hercules royal prince - the evolution - 5 by sallad rialb, on flickr

wow!

oldroads 01-15-12 07:02 AM

Looks nice.
How many teeth on that rear cog?

photogravity 01-15-12 08:19 AM


Originally Posted by oldroads (Post 13721879)
Looks nice.
How many teeth on that rear cog?

It's a 24t... We have some BIG hills here. :)

Jawihan 01-16-12 07:13 AM

Are those cogs readily available and if so from where?
Thanks
James

wahoonc 01-16-12 07:43 AM


Originally Posted by Jawihan (Post 13726004)
Are those cogs readily available and if so from where?
Thanks
James

Quasi available. Best source I have found in the US is BikeSmith Design. He even has them in 26t! :eek:

Also a great place to get cotters and the best cotter press currently available.

Aaron :)

LuckyChow99 01-16-12 08:29 AM

I second this endorsement. Mark, at Bikesmith, is the go-to-guy!


Originally Posted by wahoonc (Post 13726100)
Quasi available. Best source I have found in the US is BikeSmith Design. He even has them in 26t! :eek:

Also a great place to get cotters and the best cotter press currently available.

Aaron :)


photogravity 01-16-12 11:23 AM


Originally Posted by Jawihan (Post 13726004)
Are those cogs readily available and if so from where?
Thanks
James


Originally Posted by wahoonc (Post 13726100)
Quasi available. Best source I have found in the US is BikeSmith Design. He even has them in 26t! :eek:

Also a great place to get cotters and the best cotter press currently available.

Aaron :)


Originally Posted by LuckyChow99 (Post 13726265)
I second this endorsement. Mark, at Bikesmith, is the go-to-guy!

Indeed, Mark is the go to guy and has 24t and 26t cogs available but they are not exactly inexpensive. The 24t is $15 + shipping.

I tend to be adventurous, so I bought a dozen directly out of Germany, six at a time, for about $8 each including shipping.

Don't get me wrong on this: I know Mark from having done business with him. I have bought almost everything he sells and he has a business to run so I'm OK with him making a profit. I am sort of an outlier with regard to this because of the number of cogs I needed. It would have been more expensive than I would have liked if I had purchased a dozen from Mark. If I was just buying one or two, I would have gotten them from Mark, but in my case a dozen was a totally different story .

Super.bee 01-17-12 10:14 AM

Kool-Stops
 
I recently picked up a 72 or 73 Sports in OK condition, and since it's not pristine in any way am riding it every day and fixing as I go. Make a new fender clip for the chainstay bridge, Repacked the front hub, WD-40'd, drained/dried, and oiled the rear hub, trued, tensioned and polished (so-so job - some rust remains) the wheels, new tires. Old Dunlop tubes still holding air. Still running old brake cables, that changes today.

I put some Kool-Stop Eagle 2 pads on for this morning's rainy commute (improved over 40 year old black rubber!), but as many of you have noted, they don't fit in the front (hit the fork). Other than buying Continentals (special order where I am), what are some options people have tried? Upside-down? Cut them down a little? Are there Kool-Stop shoes that can work in the old Raleigh metal brake shoe holders? I am interested in whether anyone has interesting tricks to share.

Thanks!

Super.bee 01-17-12 10:17 AM

On cogs:

I think I read somewhere that there's a theory that a larger than 22t cog could damage the innards of the AW. I guess hubs have an input ratio, can anyone report on actually finding the limit, what the conditions were and what breaks? I am running 22t, but would gladly go to 24 or more. I think it would broaden the appeal of the bikes too, as the climbing ability with 22 is already a surprise to most!

rhm 01-17-12 10:18 AM

There definitely are kool-stop shoes/pads that work in the old Raleigh shoes/holders. They look like this:


http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

The description often indicates they are for Campy brakes; but they will work in most old brakes. They work best in holders that are open at the back; if your holders are closed on all four sides, open it up at the back.

That said, I have had trouble finding them lately; could be they have been discontinued:eek:.

photogravity 01-17-12 11:10 AM


Originally Posted by Super.bee (Post 13731200)
On cogs:

I think I read somewhere that there's a theory that a larger than 22t cog could damage the innards of the AW. I guess hubs have an input ratio, can anyone report on actually finding the limit, what the conditions were and what breaks? I am running 22t, but would gladly go to 24 or more. I think it would broaden the appeal of the bikes too, as the climbing ability with 22 is already a surprise to most!

Mark Stonich regularly ignores the minimum input ratio of his hubs and has not had any failures I'm aware of. I would think that as long as you are not mashing or hard shifting you'd be hard pressed to damage one.

LuckyChow99 01-17-12 11:54 AM

I believe Mark told me a couple years ago that you'd be fine as long as you aren't standing up on the pedals and pumping it out. The larger the cog, the more torque increases. Also, the direct drive gear can theoretically withstand more torque than the other two.

Sixty Fiver 01-17-12 12:25 PM


Originally Posted by rhm (Post 13731210)
There definitely are kool-stop shoes/pads that work in the old Raleigh shoes/holders. They look like this:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

The description often indicates they are for Campy brakes; but they will work in most old brakes. They work best in holders that are open at the back; if your holders are closed on all four sides, open it up at the back.

That said, I have had trouble finding them lately; could be they have been discontinued:eek:.

Check Kool Stop's web page... they are offering replacement pads for many more type of shoes than they ever did and Campy style inserts are available.

Continentals are a good replacement but they lack the classic shoe... one might also seek out NOS Matthauser shoes and pads which are the forerunner to Kool Stops.

rhm 01-17-12 12:36 PM


Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 13731758)
... one might also seek out NOS Matthauser shoes and pads which are the forerunner to Kool Stops.

Yes, that is always a good idea. If you see them, grab them.

Super.bee 01-17-12 06:09 PM

Thanks a lot, will keep an eye out. I don't think I have ever seen these!

Is there a risk that NOS won't be soft enough to work?

LuckyChow99 01-18-12 12:30 AM


Originally Posted by rhm (Post 13731210)
There definitely are kool-stop shoes/pads that work in the old Raleigh shoes/holders. They look like this:


http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

The description often indicates they are for Campy brakes; but they will work in most old brakes. They work best in holders that are open at the back; if your holders are closed on all four sides, open it up at the back.

That said, I have had trouble finding them lately; could be they have been discontinued:eek:.

Found these pads tonight at Harris Cyclery. Went looking for them, as I have two rod brake Raleigh's. Not cheap I might add. I tried to get my LBS to order them for me. They couldn't get them from J&B even though J&B carries the Kool Stop line. Apparently they never ordered this model.

rhm 01-18-12 07:17 AM


Originally Posted by Super.bee (Post 13733044)
Thanks a lot, will keep an eye out. I don't think I have ever seen these!

Is there a risk that NOS won't be soft enough to work?

They're from the 80's, which isn't terribly old. At any rate, the ones I have are fine. Though I might add, the NOS ones I've seen on ebay were hardly cheaper than new Koolstop ones.

Harlan 01-18-12 12:32 PM

Got myself a sports today for a broken arm cruiser. Cream tires eventually. I'm happy since it was free.
http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/1017/imag0074r.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Sixty Fiver 01-18-12 12:34 PM

Harlan, what a great find.

silvercreek 01-18-12 12:37 PM

Wish I could find me one of those.

photogravity 01-18-12 01:12 PM


Originally Posted by Harlan (Post 13735805)
Got myself a sports today for a broken arm cruiser. Cream tires eventually. I'm happy since it was free.

Harlan, do you know what year it is? It looks like a late 60's model to me.

Harlan 01-18-12 01:52 PM

Not sure of the year. Free as in I traded a free mtb for it.

noglider 01-18-12 01:54 PM

I think it's from the early 60's. And it's an incredible specimen.

I had a customer in a bike shop whose hard pedaling damaged the hub, but I was able to fix it. He was very large, and he looked strong. We had not changed the sprocket, but I think his mass made up for it. But I've only seen this once, so yes, I wouldn't worry. I'm about to put a 24T, and I'm going to ignore the advice and stand on the pedals. I'm 175 lbs, I climb fairly steep hills, and I might be towing some big loads, so it should be a good test.

It's fine that direct drive can withstand more torque, but I normally apply the most torque in low gear. ;)

Sixty Fiver 01-18-12 01:58 PM


Originally Posted by Harlan (Post 13736132)
Not sure of the year. Free as in I traded a free mtb for it.

Check the date on the hub shell... you can also reference the serial number to get an exact year as the hub date may precede the bike's age by a year.


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