I do not, but I'm pretty sure you won't need the biggest one available. Your FG hub is basically an FW with dynohub. I have an FW on my 1950 Norman Rapide, so I know that gearing pretty well. When I got the bike one of the first modifications I made was to switch the sprocket to a 22, but one ride told me that was too big; with a 22 I could get up most hills in L, and rarely needed B at all. I switched it to a 20, I think, and found that to be about right, though I may switch to a 19 one of these days. Now, your bike is definitely heavier than mine, but your wheels are also smaller. So though you may well want a bigger sprocket than I'm using, I don't think you'll need a 22. I'm guessing a 20 will suit you fine. Get two or three of the cheapest ones you can find --you can get them for $2 or $3-- and experiment.

I guess it depends on the bike. Here's my Norman three-speed!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3318/...033e7666_b.jpg

The pads you want are part number KS-CRSA.http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/campy1.jpg
I've never seen them in a shop, but there's an ebay seller that has them with free shipping.

The old Raleigh and GB brakes have an L-shaped brace attached to the brake shoe that supports the caliper against the fork when you apply the brakes, and it's important to keep this; without it the brakes will have a tendency to flex and shudder, and so won't work very well. I don't know if you can use it if you change the shoes; so I definitely wouldn't. Just change the rubber.

If you happen to be missing those L braces, you can also look on basically any crappy Xmart bike that has caliper brakes. You could probably pick one up on Craigslist for $10.

Hello. I'd like to share a couple of images of my latest acquisition; very new to the vintage bike scene but had so much fun recalling a 1930's BSA last year that I just had to do it all again this time with a 1936 Rudge Whitworth that has a '39 AW hub.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=141070http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=141072http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=141071

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8728562...7623572509816/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8728562...7623572509816/

Just the rear pads have the brace. The forces are opposite on the front.

Right. I suspect my head is on backwards today.

Very cool bike.

Yeah, and those front calipers really move when you hit the brakes.

Nice Rudge.
Nice to have the original catalog, makes yours look complete without a chain gard.
How does it ride?

You ought to see the exxxxtra long reach ones they use on the Raleigh Twentys:eek: When those Kool Stops grab I almost expect to see the calipers out in front of the fender.:lol:

BTW AFAIK the replacement pads will fit the housings with the L-stops on them, I recall having replaced the blocks on ones like that before.

Aaron:)

Thanks David, I only rode out to take the photo's before starting disassembly, a 22" frame is on the small side for me but like riding a pony instead of a horse? Nippy!?!
more images: http://www.flickr.com/photos/8728562...7623572509816/

Chas

Matt, you do the MOST impressive clean-up, shine-up work of anyone. Do you have a web page or document on how you do it? I have a lot to learn from you.

I'm not sure, but I think not all Sports models had the headlight bracket.

The Malaysian bike is interesting. I don't remember ever seeing one. The lack of a date stamp is spooky.

I noticed in the early 80's that the Chinese clones of the DL-1 were made of crappy steel, e.g. the nuts and bolts had a tendency to strip and round off. Have you noticed anything similar with the Malaysian ones?

And what kind of tires are those?

Thank you Tom, that is very flattering. I don't really do anything special or out of the ordinary, I just spend a good amount of time on them. I use white vinegar to remove rust from steel. It can take me a week or even a month to finish one bike so I am on the slow side. I disassemble every single component and tackle them one by one, I grease every single thread when I put the parts back together. It's so so nice when your barrel adjuster move freely!

I did notice that some of the bolts seemed like they may be delicate. The "R" bolts were a little bit rounded off when I found it but I don't know where they were manufactured. The tires are NOS Cheng shins that I found at my favorite dusty LBS, I was hesitant but in the end couldn't resist them. The same LBS has a pink and gum version too, I need to find a bike for them.

It's tempting to pull the tires off and hoard them but I don't have anything to replace them with.

Nope... nothing out of the ordinary at all.

:)

I have one of the Malaysian Sports as well as half a dozen other Raleighs. The build and material quality is certainly as good as the similar year Nottingham ones. The one I have has been ridden heavily and is still a serviceable bike. The rims on the Malaysian ones are Endrick pattern which are not as heavy as the Westricks that are used on the regular Sports. The only bikes I can find pictured in catalogs without the head light bracket are the children's and the Tween's bikes. Models like the Colt and Space Rider.

FWIW I am thinking that the Malaysian Sports was marketed as a Sports Standard which would have put it below the regular Sports that came with an air pump, headlight bracket and Westrick rims. They may have been attempting to hit a price point. I have seen 4 Malaysian built Sports and none of them had date codes on the hub, air pump pegs or the headlight bracket. Unfortunately most of the Raleigh Catalog scans that I have found concentrate on the light weights and not the 3 speed bikes.

Aaron :)

Do those hubs say "Made in England" on them?

Ha, well maybe the vinegar is a bit unusual. Of course I owe a lot of what I know and do to the members of this forum. There is an old children's book that I used to love called "Monkey See, Monkey do". I must have taken it to heart because that about sums up my time spent here.

I believe they do. I will take a look when I get home this weekend, or perhaps mkeller234 can look at his and check for sure.

Aaron :)

Mine just says "England" is that different then norm?

You can see it in this picture, in the upper right hand corner of the logo:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/...ca7d6913_o.jpg

It wasn't English but it was a 3 speed...

A young lady came into the co-op to get her trike fixed as some punks had taken it on a joy ride and the Worksman trike she uses to get around was already missing it's shifter, cable, and fulcrum stop.

Her friends "stole" her trike last year so the could have it professionally re-done as it was looking pretty battered after almost 2 decades of use but had not been able to find a shop here that could set up a Shimano 3 speed or could get the right parts.

She has to be really strong as I'd have trouble pedaling a trike that was stuck in third gear all day... she did say she had to walk it up small hills but that just would not do.

Found a Shimano 3 speed trigger, installed a new 3/16 bearing so it would index and now the bike shifts through all three gears. I had to fabricate a fulcrum stop as the frame tubes were larger than any stop I had... will get pictures of the bike when it comes back (cause it's sweet) as we are looking at upgrading the drive to an 8 speed.

The lady has a disability that hinders her ability to walk, but she rides... and that wider range will let her travel farther then she ever imagined.

A week is slow? I've been working on mine for two months!

I still have to tackle the polishing on my old Raleigh and am thinking that this is how I will spend my Friday evening...

I've been working on one bike for over 30 years

Well, that is if I am excited and stay focused. I was comparing my speed to BigBossMan, according to him it's typically less than a day.

I can build a bike up from a naked frame in under 2 hours and be out test driving it but polishing parts is a time consuming process.

Ultrasonic cleaner ftw. :)