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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

jjhabbs 01-29-19 08:55 PM

I made my own thread for this bike...but it belongs here too. LOVE This 74 Raleigh Superbehttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3dd4569d9e.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...69c013c3d1.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0fd98c7d04.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ac46b1c6ae.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...48c01f8886.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...61e4a38543.jpg

gster 01-30-19 07:37 AM

Your bike looks like it just came off the showroom floor.

jjhabbs 01-30-19 11:45 AM

Thanks the bicycle is in good shape. It passes the 5ft test well. however when you get close you can see the wear and tear on the fenders and such.. But over all in great shape.

JJ

crank_addict 01-30-19 12:27 PM


Originally Posted by jjhabbs (Post 20770529)
I made my own thread for this bike...but it belongs here too. LOVE This 74 Raleigh Superbehttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3dd4569d9e.jpg

Nothing but 1st Class, John!

markk900 01-30-19 01:10 PM


Originally Posted by crank_addict (Post 20771294)
Nothing but 1st Class, John!

Agree - wonderful bike!

As to the question around special tools: I made do with a c clamp for cotters for quite a while but finally got the Bikesmith cotter press - yes it is better but not quite the magic I expected (it works great on English cranks but some French and Canadian cranks haven’t as much clearance so it is still a challenge).

i still use a punch and hammer for the bb lock ring - not sure why you would need anything else as long as you are not a gorilla. Also use that for the SA hub.

i use a large adjustable for headsets - channel
locks work but are too easy to slip and/or bear down on too hard.


BigChief 01-30-19 03:19 PM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 20771373)

Agree - wonderful bike!

As to the question around special tools: I made do with a c clamp for cotters for quite a while but finally got the Bikesmith cotter press - yes it is better but not quite the magic I expected (it works great on English cranks but some French and Canadian cranks haven’t as much clearance so it is still a challenge).

i still use a punch and hammer for the bb lock ring - not sure why you would need anything else as long as you are not a gorilla. Also use that for the SA hub.

i use a large adjustable for headsets - channel
locks work but are too easy to slip and/or bear down on too hard.



The reason I like the HCW-5 lock ring spanner is that I can tighten the lock ring single handed. I can hold the cup in place with pliers...or the HCW-11 makes it even easier, then tighten up the lock ring with my other hand.

markk900 01-31-19 06:01 AM

@BigChief: for sure the right tool makes the job easier....just letting @Ged117 know some specialty tools are not really required until you do those jobs regularly. I when doing my BB adjustment it often takes me several tries to get things "just so"....but I only do about one a year so up to now haven't seen the need to buy the "right" tool.

BigChief 01-31-19 07:23 AM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 20772362)
@BigChief: for sure the right tool makes the job easier....just letting @Ged117 know some specialty tools are not really required until you do those jobs regularly. I when doing my BB adjustment it often takes me several tries to get things "just so"....but I only do about one a year so up to now haven't seen the need to buy the "right" tool.

Well...I do have to admit to being a tool junkie. I'm always looking for an excuse to buy them.

Road Fan 01-31-19 09:40 AM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 20740572)
I'll look tomorrow...standard Sports top tube yes?

Sorry to jump into this topic late, but it looks to me like the fulcrum needs to be rigidly fixed in position on the frame, as does the guide wheel at the top of the seat tube. If either of them moves, the indicator positions are commensurately moved, changing the shift points. A rubber shim might slip over time. I'd think a metal shim would be a better choice - maybe cobble up a few Nitto handlebar clamp shims to fill the space?

clubman 01-31-19 09:53 AM


Originally Posted by Road Fan (Post 20772653)
Sorry to jump into this topic late, but it looks to me like the fulcrum needs to be rigidly fixed in position on the frame, as does the guide wheel at the top of the seat tube. If either of them moves, the indicator positions are commensurately moved, changing the shift points. A rubber shim might slip over time. I'd think a metal shim would be a better choice - maybe cobble up a few Nitto handlebar clamp shims to fill the space?

Correct on all counts. Set your pulley position, (or use braze-on), thread cable and then find the optimal position for the fulcrum stop and clamp and secure firmly.

The clamps generally came in 2 sizes to match the common tube diameters so James needed the smaller. Shims are less than ideal. Usually fulcrums were clamped to bare (painted) steel, although a little clear tape underneath couldn't hurt.

Road Fan 01-31-19 10:53 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20748283)
Yes, vinegar is another step milder than Evapo-rust and is the only thing I would use to get rust stains off a shifter faceplate. The chrome there is very fragile. Never use abrasives. It's not the usual type of chrome plating. It's almost like it was printed on somehow. The back of the plate is bare brass and even the embossed areas aren't plated. If the color comes off, you can see there's no plating underneath. By the way, I can repair that shifter. If the bend is towards the back, the repair won't be noticeable. If the bend is forward and the faceplate is bent, it gets more tricky. A soft bend in the faceplate might smooth out, but there's no way to get a crease looking flat again. The colors in the embossed areas can be replaced.

Very interesting! I'm hoping to be close to finally getting my Rudge's chainset disassembled, and then comes the frame. It's 1952 and has similarly wonderful paint to Peter's Phillips. The figured painting or decals are wonderful and in good condition. I have a few tasks after mechanically stripping, and I wonder what's the best order of operations. I would like to preserve but not renew the decals as they exist, and repaint or touch up the rust spots once they have been cleared. After that I'll have to peruse available equivalents to the Raleigh/Rudge/Super Lenton blue that was used and see about a match. I'm a better mechanic than paint technician.

As I see it:

> strip off all the parts
> photograph the decals and the details
> degrease inside and out - citrus degreaser? what about the decals?
> use vinegar or Evaporust soaked onto rags to address spot-corrosion and larger corrosion areas (seat lug and BB)
> smooth, prime, and stabilize as necessary [at this point it should be rideable with OEM chainset and BB]
> (somehow) address the decals and worn paint,
> Consider hot-rodding
>>>light rims, alloy double chainset, alloy seat pillar and stem, match the brake handles, possible build a new wheel with my FG hub.

I think this will ultimately be a great century rider if I can manage a wider gear range, fenders, and some lighting!

Road Fan 01-31-19 11:56 AM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 20764860)
@BigChief: I recently stripped down my 49 Humber and was surprised that the frame felt as light as it did, but I have not had access to a post 2030 frame in the same size to compare.

Riding it I did find it a bit heavy feeling but I attributed that partly to the Panaracer tires (lovely ride but soft) and the higher gearing of the Humber chainwheel - perhaps it was indeed the weight.

Warning to the patina police: I finally decided I was fed up with the condition of the paint (it was Humber blue over black and the factory blue was 3/4 missing) so I’ve repainted and I must say I am glad I did. Looks amazing (not up to @SirMike1983 level but ...). Photos coming after I put on the decals which won’t be for a while - too icy here.

According to Peter Kohler's blogs (On the rivet) Humbers in those days were clones of Raleigh designs as were Rudges, all the way down to the same chainring/rear sprocket counts, fork offset, and frame angles. Plus, on many of the Clubman series, Reynolds 531 at least main tubes was supplied, of course with appropriate decals. I wonder how the two types of frame you evaluated would compare to a "Guaranteed Built with Reynolds 531 Plain Gauge Tubes, Fork, and Stays?"

browngw 01-31-19 03:59 PM

The Root Beer Express
 
A first showing of my 1972 Raleigh Sports 23" frame winter project. With the help of a good friend we got the front mudguard and chain guard acceptably straightened . I went with the original style of cable routing for a change. It will be compared "head to head" with SWAT my DL1 for summer town cruising.https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b39b9a73ec.jpg

BigChief 01-31-19 04:26 PM


Originally Posted by browngw (Post 20773372)
A first showing of my 1972 Raleigh Sports 23" frame winter project. With the help of a good friend we got the front mudguard and chain guard acceptably straightened . I went with the original style of cable routing for a change. It will be compared "head to head" with SWAT my DL1 for summer town cruising.https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b39b9a73ec.jpg

Wow! That is one beautiful roadster. Computer images can be deceiving, but that looks to be burgundy. The 72 catalog doesn't mention that color. Then again, it shows the top tube cable routing and self adjust levers too. Can't always depend on catalogs with Raleighs.

gster 01-31-19 08:26 PM


Originally Posted by Road Fan (Post 20772653)
Sorry to jump into this topic late, but it looks to me like the fulcrum needs to be rigidly fixed in position on the frame, as does the guide wheel at the top of the seat tube. If either of them moves, the indicator positions are commensurately moved, changing the shift points. A rubber shim might slip over time. I'd think a metal shim would be a better choice - maybe cobble up a few Nitto handlebar clamp shims to fill the space?

I have a nice untouched Superbe in the garage and often use it as a guide for cable routing, parts placement etc.
I've discovered the three finger measure for the fulcrum stop and stand by it.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...27629479bc.jpg

Measure from the lug back and you're good.
This one's got a leather shim.

gster 01-31-19 08:50 PM


Originally Posted by browngw (Post 20773372)
A first showing of my 1972 Raleigh Sports 23" frame winter project. With the help of a good friend we got the front mudguard and chain guard acceptably straightened . I went with the original style of cable routing for a change. It will be compared "head to head" with SWAT my DL1 for summer town cruising.https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b39b9a73ec.jpg

Beautiful bike.
My only comment is I'd prefer the trigger "flattened"...

clubman 01-31-19 09:40 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20773776)
I have a nice untouched Superbe in the garage and often use it as a guide for cable routing, parts placement etc.
I've discovered the three finger measure for the fulcrum stop and stand by it.

Measure from the lug back and you're good.
This one's got a leather shim.

This method works if you're got the right gear cable. There were different lengths available over the years. Ultimately, the indicator chain needs to have the right range of movement to dial in the gears and that may require adjustment of the fulcrum

gster 01-31-19 09:47 PM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 20773877)
This method works if you're got the right gear cable. There were different lengths available over the years. Ultimately, the indicator chain needs to have the right range of movement to dial in the gears and that may require adjustment of the fulcrum

Yes, based on a full sized cable with a nice wide arc at the front.

browngw 01-31-19 10:18 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20773802)
Beautiful bike.
My only comment is I'd prefer the trigger "flattened"...

Flattened??

Uruguay 01-31-19 11:53 PM

What brand of bicycle is it?
 
Hola, mi nombre es Nicolás, soy de Uruguay. Me gustaría saber qué marca ?es esta bicicleta vieja, tiene ruedas 28x 1 1/2 number frame 23032

Midnite 02-01-19 02:51 AM

wow thats great

gster 02-01-19 05:49 AM


Originally Posted by browngw (Post 20773917)
Flattened??

Parallel to the ground rather that standing up on the bars.

BigChief 02-01-19 06:25 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 20774086)
Parallel to the ground rather that standing up on the bars.

I generally set mine up that way too. I can reach the trigger with my forefinger while my hand is still at the grip. The longer window shifters lend themselves better to this position than the shorter through body bolt style though.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...877914a556.jpg

gster 02-01-19 06:37 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20774106)
I generally set mine up that way too. I can reach the trigger with my forefinger while my hand is still at the grip. The longer window shifters lend themselves better to this position than the shorter through body bolt style though.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...877914a556.jpg

Less wind resistance as well........

browngw 02-01-19 10:20 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 20773416)
Wow! That is one beautiful roadster. Computer images can be deceiving, but that looks to be burgundy. The 72 catalog doesn't mention that color. Then again, it shows the top tube cable routing and self adjust levers too. Can't always depend on catalogs with Raleighs.

Thanks BigChief! I will post a couple of more pics and hope the color comes through better. Glad you brought up the Catalog issue. Virtually all the catalog information I find on line is for the USA line of products which most of the time differs from bikes imported to Canada. This particular bike was sold in Canada by Briscoes Sporting Goods and Hardware a store that grew through the 50s, 60s and seventies in Long Branch (Missisauga). I purchased it with original cables, brakes and tires although it looked like the grips had been replaced. The original saddle was a Brooks vinyl mattress style in very good condition. I replaced it a newish B67 I had purchased on sale. Perhaps some of my fellow Canadians know of a source of Canadian sales information. @gster , I will try it "flattened" lol. I usually put them "up" to prevent damage in fallover incidents. Incidentally, the cables and clips are identical to my 71/72 Robin Hood, also a made in England product for the Canadian market. It gets even more confusing after circa 1973 when Raleighs were produced in Canada.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e7fe1b04e4.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b47700de7a.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...dc5b5f7c99.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5e23cd7f25.jpg
Colour touch-up was done with a mix of "Profoundly Purple" and "Copper Pot" nail polish followed by "High Gloss" top coat. I could not find a paint even remotely close although I believe it was featured on some 72 Jeep Wagoneers!

gster 02-01-19 10:43 AM


Originally Posted by browngw (Post 20774409)
Thanks BigChief! I will post a couple of more pics and hope the color comes through better. Glad you brought up the Catalog issue. Virtually all the catalog information I find on line is for the USA line of products which most of the time differs from bikes imported to Canada. This particular bike was sold in Canada by Briscoes Sporting Goods and Hardware a store that grew through the 50s, 60s and seventies in Long Branch (Missisauga). I purchased it with original cables, brakes and tires although it looked like the grips had been replaced. The original saddle was a Brooks vinyl mattress style in very good condition. I replaced it a newish B67 I had purchased on sale. Perhaps some of my fellow Canadians know of a source of Canadian sales information. @gster , I will try it "flattened" lol. I usually put them "up" to prevent damage in fallover incidents. Incidentally, the cables and clips are identical to my 71/72 Robin Hood, also a made in England product for the Canadian market. It gets even more confusing after circa 1973 when Raleighs were produced in Canada.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e7fe1b04e4.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b47700de7a.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...dc5b5f7c99.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5e23cd7f25.jpg
Colour touch-up was done with a mix of "Profoundly Purple" and "Copper Pot" nail polish followed by "High Gloss" top coat. I could not find a paint even remotely close although I believe it was featured on some 72 Jeep Wagoneers!

That bike should be in a museum.
We've got a carp shop on Brown's Line next door to the old Raleigh offices/factory.

BigChief 02-01-19 12:25 PM

Ah yes. I can see it's coffee now. Touching up those 70s colors seems like it would be tricky. I've never tried it. Not sure if there's metal flakes in the paint or if it's a candy type with a metallic undercoat. Beautiful bike. At some point in the 70s, Raleigh stopped using the Brooks B72 saddles on the US model Sports too. I prefer the B66 anyway. This B67 looks to be the same as a B66 except for the single rail.

markk900 02-01-19 12:37 PM

I did an almost completely original root beer (or perhaps it’s called coffee) ladies bike (a little later - maybe 1974) for my sister - came from an estate and had been hardly ridden - original vinyl bag, mileage counter, etc. The paint cleaned up amazingly well and in the sun is one of my favorite Raleigh colours.

clubman 02-01-19 01:05 PM


Originally Posted by browngw (Post 20774409)
Perhaps some of my fellow Canadians know of a source of Canadian sales information.

I have a 1965 catalogue/price list from the Merchants Trading Limited, who appears to have owned Canadian distribution rights. The early to mid 60's were a strange time when they 'Canadianized' most of the 3 speeds models as Laurentians, Mounties, Canadians, Space Riders, Colts and Explorers and offered a different range of colours and equipment. You couldn't buy a Sports but you could buy a Superbe...in black, red or blue. I'll scan it when I find it.

By the 70's, everything had reverted to typical Raleigh models, names, colours and equipment but I can't find any documentation.

BigChief 02-01-19 02:37 PM

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...de7d760036.jpg


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