Jitensha is not the location. Jitensha means bicycle.

You know what, you may be right about the green super deluxe. I really can't remember. It has been in the "to do" pile of bikes I have stored in an old shed my dad owns.

Not really a great deal. Those frames feel dead compared to a Sports from the same period. Save your pennies.

Older CCM bikes are very nicely made bicycles and were rather light for their day but I am not a fan of the later versions from the 70's as they are more tank like and cannot compare to the feel of a Raleigh on the road.

My 1940 CCM has a rather lightweight frame (5 pounds) and has a pretty amazing ride... my 1933 CCM roadster was also relatively lightweight compared to the 60's versions which used much heavier frames that go *thunk* when you tap them.

You raise an interesting point - under what circumstances does it make sense to pay top dollar for one of these bikes? I got mine for $200 (that's including sales tax, so the before tax price was about $185), which I know sounds crazy - especially considering that it requires some pretty serious overhauling. But I justify it in two ways - first, I was redeeming a gift certificate that I got from my wife for Christmas, and among the bikes in the shop it was by far the one that fit my needs best. Second, I felt that part of what I was paying for was a relationship with the shop. The gift certificate came from a relatively new shop in my neighborhood - just a few blocks from home - and before I even rode it away I asked them to replace the brake pads with some Kool-Stop Salmons and to change out the cog and chain. Also, I wanted a standard trigger shifter to replace the twist grip. I got all that for $30. The shop charged me $10 for the pads, $10 for the chain, $5 for a used trigger shifter (which came attached to an old cable - which was useless - AND a shift cable pulley, which I've cleaned up and will install when I reassemble the bike). Total labor was $5. I've been in the shop several times since, and gotten a ton of free advice. I feel as though I have to assign some value from the original purchase price to this relationship, and so I feel like I've gotten some meaningful additional value for my original "inflated" purchase price. Does that make sense?

Yes, I agree that there is some "worth" to that relationship that you talk about with the LBS. At least here in Savannah, there are two shops that will bend over backwards to answer a tech question or sell you a seat cover and give you the same attention that a new bike buyer receives. The third (and unfortunately the one that is only 4 blocks away) could give a damn about you if you are buying a new bike (and maybe not even then). There is a monetary value to the level of customer service you receive.

By the way, what bike did you get?

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/sportsdrop2.JPG

Had this Raleigh roll into the co-op and got her all serviced and ready to roll and my friend, who has just returned from a world tour where his beloved touring bike was written off, was looking for a good commuter bike.

He said that after taking this for a ride he couldn't get the smile off his face and he took it home for $80.00 - he got the volunteer discount.

I dropped the shifter to the lower drop position and he just loved that.

The cable housing at the rear brake seems a bit long to me.

And is there a reason the seat clamp is on backwards? I know sometimes people do it deliberately, but not always.

Very nice bikes, everyone. The old 3-speeds (and single-speeds) certainly have a very classic look and a wonderful ride. One of these days I might try one, but the weight issue is keeping me from doing so: I just haven't been able to convince myself to get back into heavy gas-pipe frames and steel parts. The Lenton shows that there are a few lighter options, but I have never seen one for sale. One can always convert a lightweight, but then you lose the authenticity, which is kind of the point to begin with.

Certain designs of bikes don't need to be light. Others do. It's hard to appreciate this point until you try one.

It's a '72 Sports, "All-Gold Edition." I posted a photo earlier in this thread (post #35). It's the same model as the one that bbattle posted in post #29.

I have to agree with Tom. Craigslist has been very good to me over the past couple of years. I would check the CL several times a day, every day. My first was a '68 Robin Hood for my wife that I paid $35 for.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2540/...fcbc5c48_o.jpg

The following summer I found a pair of matching Raleigh Sports. I follwed the listing for a month and watched the asking price fall every week until I was satisfied with the price and then I made my move. At that time I found out that the seller, who owned a flea matket store, just received a pair in better condition. Those are the ones I bought and they had Brooks saddles, seat bags and new tires. My cost for the pair was $125.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3462/...9fc1cc1c_o.jpg

Last year my main find was a pair of Raleigh Twenty's that I was able to snap up for the total sum of $100.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3525/...c232a713_o.jpg

It was... :)

I recently built up this "three speed" -- it's actually a five speed, with the new wide range hub with drum brake.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/...38621e20_o.jpghttp://farm5.static.flickr.com/4049/...366f17fb_o.jpg
Being 6' tall, and preferring short crank arms, I wanted a (too) big frame that I could put (too) small wheels on. So this is a 62 cm Lambert frame with 26" (MTB size) wheels. The small wheels necessitated drum brakes. It rides very nicely! I haven't weighed it.

Goodness, rhm, that's incredible. I adore it.

Why do you like such short cranks? Do you spin really fast?

Funny... I prefer 175's and don't like anything shorter than 170's.

Thanks!

I don't know, what's really fast? Judging by other cyclists I see, I often see cyclists who spin as fast as I, but only occasionally do I see someone who spins much faster; so I guess I'm at the higher end of the "normal" range. These cranks are 140's, which is frankly a little on the small side. I've tried everything between 127 (5") to 175 and found that crank length really doesn't make much difference at a normal cadence (90-100 rpm). The short ones offer a small advantage at a high cadence and a small disadvantage at a low cadence. In deep snow, they are a disadvantage (confirmed this morning) but I don't ride in that very often.

That Robin Hood is gorgeous - I love the paintjob! - and I'd love to see more of the twin Sports.

For those of you afraid to tear into your AW hubs, check out this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea6krXSs-lc

It's not so scary after all!

While technically not a 3 speed, here's my 1968 Sprite. I bought it for $40, but stuck about another $60 into it.

I just started a phot sharing account we'll see if this works.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/47987290@N03/4399727397

http://www.flickr.com/photos/47987290@N03/4399727397

Very nice. I'd love a S5 hub.

Graham is organizing a tour in England, http://www.togglechaintour.co.uk/ , that looks like fun.

Buck, you can check out more pics of the Robin Hood, the green Raleigh Sports and more of my bikes on Flickr:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/stl914/sets

Ooooh, pretty! I've got to say, though - as much as I admire your 3-speeds, it was that '76 Grand Prix that caught my eye. You see, my first serious bike was a '76 Grand Prix....