Maybe, will look.

The cranks used on the rod brake machines tend to be 170s. Those on the caliper brake machines tend to be 165s.

So I've got a drive side, 7 inch Williams 5 pin crankarm (~177 mm). I've got a similar NDS arm, 'British Made' also 7 " but it has a 1/2 pedal thread so it would have to be tapped to 9/16". Anyway, yours for shipping plus 2 cans of Old Speckled Hen. Sorry I don't have an extra 5 pin ring.
Edit. The chrome is in better shape than the pics show. Also, the NDS arm looks older, it appears to be nickel plate.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bcc7e2bb57.png

FREE Raleigh Twenty in MA.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...32596744888103

https://scontent.fric1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...b5&oe=619CBB67

PM inbound!

Front fender stay?
 

I hope this doesn’t violate forum rules but I thought I would get more traction in this thread.

Looking for a front fender stay for my single speed Rudge. Measurement is a hair over 14.5 inches.

TIA
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a3e4fdc7a6.jpg
Tape measure is deceiving. 14.5” is accurate.

BTW - I’m assumingleft and right are mirror image but I’ve been wrong before…😬

Found on a Facebook R20 group:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7343944de8.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...da9517ecd4.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0758741584.jpg

^ Zip ties. They really should have used a full loop of chain, and someone will really be pissed about that wasted Rudge crankarm.

Where do they get the clock mechanisms? I could make up a clock for my shop.

Any arts & craft shops sell those. Around here that would be Michaels or Hobby Lobby. Of course amazon or ebay would have them.

I did that once for our bakery...without the clock. The bottom chairing, the chain and cog are all 3/16" gauge.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b566e8ab34.jpg

I got one at Woodcraft.

Walmart stores also carry one clock mechanism kit ON THE CRAFTS aisle which is usually next to -or- on the other side of the Sewing aisle(you know, thread, needles, scissors, pins, buttons, fasteners, velcro, etc). You may however wish to study the many different ones available on ebay & amazon etc, because although all of them are pretty reliable and accurate as any AA battery clock mechanism, you might want a particular version BECAUSE of the LOOK/style of the clock HANDS. That right look of the HANDS of the Clock might just make the difference between a good looking Sprocket Clock and a great looking Sprocket Clock. I would imagine that some vendor/suppliers also sell individually the various styles/colors, etc of interchangeable Clock Hands to fit most all of these typical generic AA battery clock mechanisms.
You certainly could even scour GOODWILL for something to use as a Donor clock . As FBOAT & thumpism already mentioned, MICHAELS & HOBBY LOBBY & WOODCRAFT have plenty of these.

This bike is still available in NYC. I just don't have space for it. Can't go wrong for $20 can you? I may still go up and grab it Tuesday if no one else wants it. Just have to endure the screaming from the trouble and strife.

https://newyork.craigslist.org/brx/b...404623558.html

Have now worked on three cottered three-speeds and the Bikesmith cotter pin tool has saved all three. Thanks to all who recommended it and to Mark for providing such a beautifully finished and efficient too. I will no longer pass up a good bike with a cottered crank.

Found a rider for the restored grey '73 Sports.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c9ab6c290d.jpg
Before: Thought the bike was brown...Stripped it down completely for the rebuild.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fa8a8deff.jpeg
Original paint cleaned up nicely with Maguire's rubbing compound and then some wax. Mostly original parts and it runs great.

In typewriter world we call them "key choppers". Any typewriter with the nickel rims on keys have their keys chopped for jewelry., and other parts go to steampunk artsy whatevers.

Anybody here a fan of WD-40? Gawd that stuff can be awful. I picked up a Superbe last week and tore down the SA 3 spd. I think the last 10 years of it's life WD-40 was used in the lube hole. Once it dries, it is very tough to remove.

WD-40 is not bad for cleaning, displacing water, or preventing light rust in some applications. It can be used as a penetrating oil for loosening rusted parts, but there are better products for that use.

It is not a substantial enough lubricant, though there's a segment of people who insist that it can substitute for oil or grease. This is a corner that should not be cut. A good quality lithium grease and good quality light oil should be on-hand in the garage or shop as lubricants. I think part of it is people who don't know any better just grab a can of WD-40 and use it for everything sometimes.

[Don't get me started on key choppers... bad business]

If I get in a project and the hub isn't shifting right, I'll spray a bunch of WD40 in it and take it for a short ride. Usually its shifting within a couple of blocks. Then I put it on the stand, rotate the oil port down, and spray more in while catching what comes out so it doesn't make a mess. Once its done draining I use automatic transmission fluid as a lubricant and take another ride- about ten miles or so. Then I change out the oil and again and use a bit of light gear lube like I use for the Rohloff.

WD40 is a tool and not a lubricant. I prefer to use Kroil if I have a stuck bolt, seatpost or stem, but it smells terrible so I have to use it outside and make sure everything is cleaned of it before bringing the parts back inside. But for freeing stuff that's stuck its the best I've encountered.

Full name Drew Gutenberg.

For sale in/ near Pittsburgh
 

A ladies, maybe 23"? Brown. And a blue LTD, small. Both look ridable.

Not mine:

https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/bi...414807367.html
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/bi...406560697.html

Really? I like it, kinda like wintergreen. I put a dab in the aftershave.

A 23 looks taller with its seat cluster level with the top of the head tube. Here's one in TN for $200, too much for this condition.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...20428388259016

https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...df&oe=61AD8762

Price drop on this Sturmey 5-speed in VA. Now $160.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...35837557818814

https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...a5&oe=61AF2F18

I had a neighbor bring me a bike yesterday with the rear wheel locked up tight. She said she was riding and all of a sudden the back wheel locked up, then broke free, then locked up again.
The SA AW hub was locked up tight.
As soon as i put the bike up on the stand I could see something really bad happened. There was a dent in the shell from the inside, and the shift cable was pulled out of the shifter up top.
I removed the cable from the indicator, removed the indicator, and removed the axle nuts. That's when I really realized how bad it was. The axle had twisted on the left side only, spreading the dropouts a bit and wedging the round part of the axle in the frame. I had to take a block of wood and drive the axle down out of the dropout on the left side.
I immediately saw that the left axle threads were twisted almost a quarter turn and the axle had 'threaded' the inside of the dropouts.
I then backed off both bearing cones, and both axle bearings and cones were fine.
I then found that the driver was stuck in the hub. It took a brass mallet to knock it loose.
The bearings, race, and driver were stuck together, the bearings that fell out were black and burnt looking. The right side race was blue and the driver had come color as well and a few chunks out of the bearing race.
I pulled the internals and soon found that the pinion gear was loose on the axle, and half the pin that holds it in place was gone. The gears and the rest of the hub were fine except for one broken left side pawl.
The owner is a big woman, 6ft 5in or so in her 60's. The bike is a ladies Sports.
The hub was well oiled, and there was no real grinding or cutting going on, which made me think it did indeed happen pretty fast. However, I didn't find the missing half of the pinion gear pin, or the missing half of the one pawl.
The driver bearings were about half their normal size and not even close to round and there was a lot of grinding dust in with the bearings and not much lube there, but the bearings were pretty much burned black.

The hub shell was re-usable, I replaced the axle, right bearing race, cone, and all the bearings and its back up and riding. The pinion gear was actually fine too, but rather than mess around with the old gear I just found a used axle for it.

Here's the axle


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...88ffa90763.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...58ef122651.jpg
The entire axle is twisted, not just the end, look at how far the flats are from each other on the other end. I also thought it odd that the sold end of the axle twisted before the hollow end. Both no-turn washers were also destroyed, with the left one broken in half. Since the dropouts were so chewed up, I added an extra no turn washer on the outside as well on the left side. When i thought about it and what had to happen for this to fail this way I figure that both the driver and the pin or pawl had to lock up the internals at the same time. Otherwise, the locked up driver would have just made it a fixed gear but it was locked up completely. I suppose if it didn't lock up, the axle would have kept turning and just eventually snapped.