The Westrick is a pretty beefy looking rim in that 28 inch size. I have a 1978 Raleigh DL-1 I bought many years ago off of craigslist in DC. They're good bikes that still have the old style roadster feel.

My 1976 Sports is currently under the knife! The paint was in really rough shape. It's getting some updated cable routing, water bottle mounts, a light mount and a fender mount in the chainstay bridge. It will be powder coated a metallic light blue that is close to the original color. Work done by the excellent https://www.instagram.com/etiquefabrications/. I'm hoping it lasts another 47 years!



https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0345bda12.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...46d273497.jpeg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6745f03c0.jpeg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8db87e0f8.jpeg

Those are some nice modernizations. Some thoughts and questions: By using plural "bottle cage mounts" do you intend to put a set on both the seat-tube and down-tube? By "light mount", do you mean you are brazing a lamp bracket boss to one of the fork blades? You must have meant you are upgrading the fender mount on the chainstay bridge, because I think all Sports' have them. That is a nice, re-inforced one.

Thanks! To answer the questions:

We added one set of bottle mounts on the downtube, I still want to have the traditional decal on the seat tube.

You can see the light mount in the first photo. I have a Bluelug Koma light that will screw into it. The location is inspired by a Hufnagel I saw online. I hope I works this was a bit of a risk!

For the fender mount: Surprisingly mine didn’t come with one. It is a Canadian made frame so maybe that’s the difference?

Last but not least: I wanted to move the rear brake brake-ons from the drive side to the non-drive and update them to a modern style (that doesn’t require stepped ferrules) but they were very securely welded and removing them risked leaving some marks on the frame, so they stayed.

I’m also very excited about the chainstay cable stop replacing the finnicky bolt on one.

I’ll post some pics once it’s powder coated.

Finished up some minor upgrades/restoration on my Raleigh Sports.
- I've installed new brake cables, but left the original cable housings since it is in great condition.
- Installed a rear rack (Wald 215), with a slight modification to clear the fenders. I used some bar stock and drilled a couple holes to lift the rack approx. 2". The modification worked perfectly.
- Replaces the old rotting tires with new Schwalbe Delta Cruisers.

Really pleased with the result.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f91a5fe445.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6d3e18ee28.jpg
Rear rack modification

The frame color and the tire color combo is incredible.

Looks good. You just need to do something about those pedals.

Yep! I've got new silver pedals from Velo Orange on the way ;)

It looks great. Good work on the rack. How do you keep the leather on your Brooks B72 so nice?

@1989Pre, honestly I got lucky that the saddle came with the bike in that condition. I know the bike was stored inside for many years. I do also use a leather conditioning product (that I've for a long time on horse saddles/boots) called, Passier Lederbalsam. This has kept all my leather bike saddles really nice!

I'm really liking all the coffee Sports showing up here. My 1972 Canadian market Sports.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0eaccb1d6e.jpg

Sturmey Archer AW Spare Parts?
 

I don't really do three-speeds, but we have an old Raleigh Sports my lovely wife dragged home from somewhere. The hub wasn't coasting at all, so I was assigned the task of refurbishing it. Everything seemed to go according to plan until I couldn't get the indicator pin to thread into the axle key (variously p/n K526 or HSA124, depending on your parts diagram). I pulled things apart and not only was the axle key rotated, it was shifted to one side and broken through the threads. That's on me, obviously. It looked okay when I put the hub back together.

Where do I go to find small S-A hub parts, given that I have no desire to start accumulating old AW hubs? I can check with my local co-op and see if they have some AW hubs (they likely don't have spares outside of complete hubs), but again, I really don't want to start accumulating old AW hubs. Any other suggestions?

I have had great results using these guys. Sturmey-ArcherParts.com The ordering is a little strange, and the dude contacted me by text at like 8 on a saturday night. But the parts were priced fair, same with shipping. and showed up on time.
If you want the very best price, SJS cycles in england. But because of the minimum shipping cost only maks sense to buy in bulk from them.

Thanks. An iBoB person also recommeded them. I'm connected.

Skip, I’m glad to send you a couple of axle keys for the cost of mailing. I somehow ended up with a small drawer full.

Make sure you screw an indicator into the key while you reassemble the hub, until you get the cone screwed down. This keeps it aligned. See step 9 of reassembly: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/aw.html

Yeah, I did that, but obviously removed it too early.

As promised, new sliver pedals
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...68bba86d38.jpg

Looks like a 24" wheeled Raleigh for $30 in MI.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...61960041088254

https://scontent-iad3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...GQ&oe=644A5DA3

Well.... finding an hub is probably free. Buying specific hub parts can be very expensive on Amazon etc. One hub can probably supply all the parts you need now and in the future. I've had problems with the key before. I think the trick is that once the hub is back together, install the indicator BEFORE any testing/spinning etc.

Thanks for the responses. I found an axle key locally in a friend's parts stash.

Looks like not much is needed to get this looking good.

Some months back I found a 1953 dated AW hub in a worn-out wheel, which I thought would be a perfect candidate to run on my commuter Triumph while I have the S5 hub wheel off the bike for a rebuild.

The '53 hub was gummed up from many years of use without maintenance and wasn't working, mostly due to missing parts inside and frozen pawls - so it turned out that I had to rebuild that one too. I took it completely apart and rebuilt it with new bearings, new pawl springs, 1 or 2 new pawls, and a few other parts I sourced from that guy in Seattle at Rat City Bikes (sturmeyrarcher parts.com).

Today I installed the wheel on the bike to test the function of the hub - and it ticks along perfectly. I have to say the apart from the parts that were missing and the broken pawl spring, the remaining bits were in great condition. I hope my S5 rebuild works out just the same - I suspect I'll find worn parts in that one.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6e06342f_b.jpgPXL_20230106_000729017

Older Raleigh Sports in NJ:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/167804332864409


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...45c3e1f0c3.jpg

The mid-1950s Sturmey hubs, like that 1953, are excellent parts to have on hand. They are early enough that they don't have the cost cutting of later hubs, but late enough that they don't have some of the quirky parts of the early hubs.