Fixed up the shifter on my DL-1 today. Wanted a new cable and casing, but wanted to keep the original adjuster instead of using a pinch bolt. A piece of 3/32" brass tubing makes it easy.
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Well done, @BigChief.

nicely done BigCheif. Did you end up crimping it on? How is it held in place? I like this idea.

Put a 22t on my Sports today. Quick job. Ive got a twist grip shifter and no matter what i do it hunts to find 1 and 2. 3 is never a problem. I am debating on replacing the original cable/housing or just saying the heck with it and going to a trigger. I think those are much more reliable from what i recall reading. IM trying to sort out if the hub has an issue or not. i have replaced the indicator chain and tried every adjustment i can think of and is the same old story. I threw a new part of kool stop continentials on the front and it stops on dime now. I replaced the chain when i put the 22t on because my original was a bit short. IT just keeps getting fancier and fancier.

of what ?? nice original paint ?http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...psssef3b8u.jpg

Yes!
And anything else.
These pages are much more interesting with the visuals.

Thanks for that photo...it'll make color matching a lot easier on my wife's bike.

Another LTD-3 question: I mounted a front rack on the fender eyelets, which are threaded. The M5 bolts that came with the rack seemed to screw in OK even though from everything I've read they should not be M5 threads. (Based on the condition of the bike when I received it, I really doubt anybody has re-tapped those eyelets.) Are they going to seize up or do something else awful if they aren't retapped? I did put some anti-seize on the eyelet threads, but I'm not sure whether that's enough to make up for truly incompatible threading.

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how about a nice shifter with a perfect plastic cover ( no over tightening )http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...ps9pxv5ieg.jpg

I used silver solder and frayed the cable end a bit. I'm thinking regular 60/40 solder would be strong enough for a 3 speed shifter. Crimping would work too, but you might have to file it a bit to get it to turn freely in the adjuster barrel.

Any problems with solder adhesion, or did the cable soak it right up?

IIRC, they're Imperial 10-32 thread, which is close enough to M5 to work reliably for this purpose.

I used a file to saw the tubing so it wouldn't burr up too much. I coated the cable with paste flux and slid the piece over the cable and used a sharp knife to loosen up the cable end. I tinned up the cable and laid a good blob of solder on the end then held the tubing with needle nose pliers and moved it up and down to spread the solder while I heated it. I didn't depend on the solder to migrate like you do when sweating pipe. It had a nice thick coating before I let it cool. Next time I do this I'll use regular 60/40 solder. It will be easier and I won't have to heat the cable up so much. I'm used to using silver solder for brake cables, but I don't think it's necessary for this application.

In February 1975 I bought myself a brand new 1974 Raleigh Sports in the coffee paint. I've been riding it for 40 years - and boy are my legs tired! If I like something, I tend to stick with it and I like the Raleigh ( I also have a 64 ½ Ford Mustang that I've had longer than the bike ).


I retired this May so I have had more time to ride. I start each day with a 3 – 5 mile ride before it gets too hot. I found this forum while researching some maintenance items. I recently replaced tires, tubes, cables, seat (Brooks B72), etc. - mostly just normal wear items.


I replace the lever shifter with the twist shifter as soon as I got the bike home. I first tried a cheap after-market shifter that wasn't too good. I quickly located a genuine Sturmey-Archer shifter and I still like it. I located some Whitworth wrenches that makes maintenance easier and less frustrating. I wish there was an affordable and reliable source for Raleigh nuts & bolts.


I love my bike and enjoy reading about others bikes. Thanks to all those who posted maintenance tips!

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Don

@rdg20 - Hi Don! Welcome to the Forums and to the Love of English Three Speeds thread. Your bike looks nice and its encouraging to hear that you've kept it and regularly ride it, especially in this day & age. People like to "dispose" of things to get new. ;)

Stick around.

@rdg20 - +1 - welcome. What a great time machine you have....I love the coffee Raleighs and yours is a great example. I found one in good shape and cleaned it up for my sister - looked almost as good and probably wasn't ridden more than a couple of hundred miles.

nice bike and welcome .. great story , unfortunately , my bikes story is a little different . i have a 74 sports in coffee also . i fished it out of dumpster .. its a one owner , 28 mile bike . the as found shot in the van ..http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...psqdggvdw0.jpg http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...pshrccq6la.jpg

What a cool kid's seat!

rdg20-

Try here and here for spares for Raleigh 3 speeds.

i've since painted it http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...ps6clphyon.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...psk7ghjiq8.jpghttp://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...psixw8annq.jpg

The second "here" looks quite reasonable.

I always like a free bike.

Four speed might disqualify it from inclusion in this thread.

Moulton 4 Speed Vintage English Bicycle Archer

Moulton 4 Speed Vintage English Bicycle Archer - $495 (Ashland) < >
http://images.craigslist.org/00o0o_k...2m_600x450.jpg


http://images.craigslist.org/00000_d...Pt_600x450.jpg


http://images.craigslist.org/00o0o_k...u2m_50x50c.jpghttp://images.craigslist.org/00P0P_a...EKb_50x50c.jpghttp://images.craigslist.org/01313_k...kJp_50x50c.jpghttp://images.craigslist.org/00000_d...9Pt_50x50c.jpg
condition: good


Made in England.
Has some wear & scratches to paint finish.
May have some shifting issues.
I'm not quite sure of the operation of the Archer shifter.
Otherwise overall good condition for its age.
Rides nice.
$495.00 obo
Email, text or call Kenny show contact info (cel).

The DL1 has a 22T cog on it now, changed from the original 17T. As expected it was a tedious bit of work. The chain required 115 links, up from the original 110. Where the axle adjustment had been forward in the dropout, it is now outward. That meant readjusting the brake linkage and moving the cable fulcrum to keep it in a good range of adjustability. There is ample clearance between the chain and the chain guard.

The change made a large difference in riding it. Where I had formerly only used 'H' on downhill runs, I now use it for cruising range. L spins easily for steep climbs. It is now comparable to my Rudge Sport in the gearing. For the $22 it cost for the parts, it is a very worthwhile upgrade for this bike.