Do you have 650B rims? These aren't Sports sized.

I see 37-590 right on the side. The rims are all OEM and all tires are 26 x 1-3/8" 37-590. Is this correct?
I do know the 37-597 26 x 1-3/8" is to big to clinch the rim properly.

https://d2j6tswx2otu6e.cloudfront.ne...3993e603b4.jpg

The ISO metric standards do clear up a lot of confusion. 590mm is the inside diameter and 37mm is the width. So 37x590 works for English light roadster 26x 1 3/8 wheels.

@johnnyspaghetti, just making sure you didn't buy 650 B's if you didn't need them.
Since there's so many 650's many it's easier to call them EA3s or 590's.

I have been around the block on tires that don't fit the rim proper.

I really don't even consider 650 abc spec. I asked the seller but didn't look at the 2nd picture that revealed the size.
They look like pretty good tires. Far better quality than the lowest price Kenda tires I usually get.

He said they don't fit a 26" rim... No...they don't fit his rim.

The ISO spec & the fractional spec. is correct for me. I have gone thru 100's of tossed out tires in the alley at the co-op and have tried all available 26" sizes that looked like they might fit before a sidewall blows out and ruins the tube.

finally found a replacement indicator rod (top) for the broken one (bottom)

That's a 4 speed indicator isn't it? Never even rode a SA 4 speed. Would love to find one someday.

Yup, those 4-speed two-piece indicators are tough to find. I’ve snagged some individual sides on eBay, hoping I’ll find their mates at some point.

The two-piece indicator rods were also used on some, but not all, SW hubs. I actually prefer the two-piece indicators. Most of the SA hub overhauls I've done are to replace stripped axle keys, and the two-piece indicator is immune to this problem in that in the event that the rod breaks or strips, it can be replaced without opening the hub.

If anybody else is looking for a two-piece indicator, I have a couple spares here:

http://www.os2.dhs.org/~john/two-piece-indicator.jpg

This indicator rod set is for a ASC hub.

I had to look that one up. 3 speed fixed. I guess finding that indicator was a real long shot.

Challenging is an understatement. The hubs are in the "hens teeth" category; spare parts for them in the "almost unobtanium".

1953 Raleigh/Parliament Bicycle



This popped up local on CL like new but very unfortunate that nothing but the frame is original. 60's & 70's parts for a lot of money

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...479767550.html










https://images.craigslist.org/00L0L_...v_1200x900.jpg

Weird. Whatever it is it's not a Nottingham built Raleigh

I like a good mystery. I'm going to hazard a guess. Not a Raleigh frame or fenders. Maybe some parts were added, but I don't think this is a restoration. I think it was built and sold this way. I don't think the frame and fenders are even English. What seals the deal for me is the Hi-Tension steel sticker. No English speaker would have made that mistake.

Agree, not Raleigh. There were some Asian knock-offs with the thimble fork, could be one of them. Waste of time, money and parts.

It's a 69 2 AW hub pictured. I am not privy to older frame lugs.

Saves me asking, because I was about to ask how you could tell? I could see maybe $200. for a well put together bike, but $685. for a knock off? This would be a major sting for the buyer if found out. :(

Time for tires for Roadster#2. Any recommendations for 40-635 tires? (28x1 1/2"). I'm located in Canada.

I picked these Conti Tour Rides because they are supposed to be puncture resistant. So far so good. And I have put quite a few miles on these.

Attachment 597633

Low price tires from Niagara.
https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...hoCxTMQAvD_BwE

They are a nice ride. Imagine your normal 3 speed setup, with the 4th gear being an extra low. If you set it up right, you can have high a little higher, while low is a bit lower than what you have now. You can climb better and not spin out so quick.

You want to avoid the alloy version of the FM (Four speed Medium range) hub- the alloy shell cracks quite easily. This is not a problem with the FW.

FWs with the Dynohub built in are easy to find on ebay.co.uk

Y'all seem pretty sure of yourselves based on crappy CL pix. I don't have an opinion one way or another myself. Some stuff there looks a little hinky I agree but it could be just what it claims to be. Raleigh made bicycles on contract for British retail chains, just like many American bike companies did (including Schwinn.) As with anything even slightly suspicious I'd want to inspect this bike personally before dropping any money on it, of course.

Show me another Raleigh Sports or rebrand-clone with mudguard attachments above the axle and not at the rear. Just one. Made anytime.

Here's a poor picture of an Indian roadster but you can clearly see the thimble fork crown. Try to find another Raleigh Parliament online. This is a company that made bikes in vast numbers. Not trying to be cocky here, just brief.

http://www.kwcycles.com/imgs/kw-rl-type.jpg

That's the whole reason I gear down my AWs. I sacrifice the overdrive for a granny to help me get up hills. I'm especially tempted by the idea of the FM. I love the medium spread I have on the S5. The only issue there is if you're riding the S5 in medium mode, engaging the bell crank to reach the granny in wide mode is a trickier shift. It's reliable, but not as smooth and easy as the right side shifter. Takes a bit of a knack.