Hah, no pictures, but myself and buddies rode our old one speed, balloon tire, coaster brake bicycles most of the way up to Lake Arrowhead from San Bernardino back in the mid sixties. On the return trip down the steep grade, one of my buddies sister came driving by, honked and waving. I asked her how fast we were going? She looked at her speedometer, then back at us while saying sixty. You're going sixty miles per hour. A sudden chill went down my spine, and I said; guys, we had better slow down. :eek: Now with coaster brakes only, that took a little ways, but slow down we did, with no casualties. Nice pictures. :thumb:

Listed as a Sheffield...
Looks like the trigger has been swapped out.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...33b9358b96.jpg

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...1093179007598/

https://scontent.fric1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...98&oe=5EA5A06B

More root beer!

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...3119714250310/

https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...4f&oe=5EA686F1

Coastal brakes!

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...3494337294233/

https://scontent.fric1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...18&oe=5EA39A89

Looks like one of the Dutch production bikes, loop with a 3CB.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...8220862297168/

https://scontent.fric1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...03&oe=5EA30F92

Peugeot AO8 four speed
 

Hi folks. I'm just about at the test ride stage of this build. 700c wheels with sturmey archer four speed hub and dynohub. For those who have worked on dynohubs, what level of play at the hub when installed and tight is to be expected? I've followed the proper procedure for cones and what not. Just seems to have more than a hint of play. Chain line is 95 percent. It might need to be a bit tighter. I may adjust the wheel position in the dropouts. Before the pandemic hit I was going to have a more modern alloy 26mm seat post brought down to 24mm, but it's too late. For the moment I'm stuck with the old one. Apart from that the headset is original (and in great shape). Handlebar is a Sakae unit off of my Voyageur. Original mafac calipers with kool stop pads and the Dia Compe levers off the Voyageur. Thoughts on the dynohub play? The FW is shifting beautifully.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5e4f8b47f7.jpg

I sold this one a couple of years back for around $140. Removed the drop bars. They are still have the Raleigh DNA and were good bikes for the new price of about $70.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bea81b9076.jpg

I remember that one.

Gotta like a smooth FW.
I think the dyno gets adjusted to a point where, before cinching it up you have a little wiggle and after tightening, you can just smell a little play.

I love it!!! I have a similar 3 speed road bike I built not long ago, coaster brake 3 speed to be exact.

The chain does look too loose.

Here is a pic of mine,

https://i.postimg.cc/Y21XQ1HS/E4-F9-...CAE1-D42-F.jpg

Yeah...
 

Yeah... I like that...it’s like you sense/smell, a touch of looseness... I’ve done that with pedals, I’ve had to go back and do the first pedal again because the second pedal raised the bar so to speak...OCD is a hard master...

I think I've got it there now. I adjusted the non-dyno side cone a little. There is still a little bit of play. This '62 dynohub had no wear on the internals whatsoever, and when I turn the wheel, the magnets are certainly grabbing.

I like this bike. The purple really pops! This mirrors mine - nice IGH simplicity. I'm thinking of moving the rear wheel further ahead in the dropouts and taking a link out of the chain. I did move it back a little bit, and the chain is tighter, but I think it is still too loose. I might have to bring it up a little and take out a link. The MKS Touring pedals are so light. I can't wait to ride this week.

i think thats a shimano hub and trigger

Yeah,
It's a Sears Dept store bike.
Probably Japanese with a "British" sounding name.

Thanks! The paint is catalyzed automotive paint which is really easy to get great results with, this was my first bike frame I've sprayed with my HVLP gun, and I'm very happy with the results.

Are the dropouts really short so you can't move the wheel back far enough to get the chain tension correct? You can get a "half link" for the chain too if you are really looking for a specific wheelbase.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It definitely is!

I rode my first century on a bike identical to this one!

The dropouts on the AO8 have lots of space. This is just my first time on a full build IGH conversion, so it took some trial and error. It is nice and properly tensioned now. At this point I have to tighten things here and there, and wait for decent weather for a test ride. Then I'll adjust the stem and saddle, and wrap the bar. I plan on a layer or two of hockey tape, and then a layer of Newbaum's cotton tape in black. I have to find some M6 bolts for my fenders - these French '70s frames have huge eyelets. I have a B&M IQ-X lampset waiting too - I have to find some connectors for the dynohub.


What frame is that? The lugs look nice. Frame preparation and paint may be something I start looking into in the future. I have a '54 Armstrong Consort Reynolds 531 frame with beautiful green paint with burgundy on the head tube and seattube - but there are light rust spots all over the place. My plan right now is to use evaporust, and then clear coat to save the patina.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...86e62791ff.jpg
1954ish Armstrong Consort straight-gauge 531 frame and fork

One thing you might look for is the "anti rotation washers" for 10mm dropouts, Amazon does have them, https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00IWS06...v_ov_lig_dp_it .

The flats on a sturmey axle are 8.5mm wide, so there is a fair bit of slop in a modern 10mm horizontal dropout, I have been ok using the originla 8.5mm anti rotation washers, bt I do adjust the chain tension with the bike on the ground so the axle is against the top side of the drop out, if you adjust tension with the bike in the bike stand the axle will be resting on the bottom side of the drop out, and when riding one side, or boths side could shift to the top side of the drop out and your brake pad adjustment will be just a bit off.


Love that you have a Sturmey Dyno hub in the front!


It is a 1988 Schwinn Premis, lower end columbus tubing, one of the last years Schwinn was still making bikes in Chicago!


For this bike I was able to use a 120 horsepower sand blaster to get old paint and rust off the frame, its seriously only took 3 minutes to go from a kind of scungy old frame to that beautiful flat gray that is nice and porus for so the paint can stick REALLY well.

I did just prep and paint a tall bike I built, I did not have monster sand blaster and it took hours to use a tiny spot sand blaster and an orbital sander to get all the paint off, but that paint job came out great!

A can of 2k clear is a bit spendy, but would be great for that bike, catalyzed (2K) clear is a great product that has superior UV resistance to hardware store clear, and you can get it in matte finish, some info on 2K clear and 1k clear below,

I showed this pic in another thread but thought it was worth repeating here: I found that the seat tube three-speed cable guide on my Jeunet was slipping, and my roadside fix was to shim with what looks like the filter of a cigarette:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a412d2f8d.jpeg

Definitely not a permanent solution.

Nice ghetto roadside fix! It will outlast the bike lol

I haven't done a roadside bicycle fix aside from fixing a flat or adjusting gears, tightening handlebars and the like.Years ago I was riding 300kms city to city on an 80's Honda CBX550 four (wish I'd kept that bike) & halfway there I lost all power, no-where near services or civilisation (Aussie middle-of-nowhere). Took me a little while (In cold, drenching rain) to find a little hole in the pipes, which I plugged with chewing gum. Got me there and back, another 450 kms :)

My best friend in grade school had one - and I wanted the 36h hubs for a future 700c project. I stripped the paint last fall and found some surprises underneath like a split bottom bracket lug and part of the headstock bearing cup boss missing on the fork. They repaired the split lug at the factory by dropping a blob of weld on it.

I was going to get it powder coated a Copper colour like Wilier Ramato but now you guys have me feeling guilty - but I know of another for $600!

Just popping in to see how everyone is doing during this difficult time... this really is the thread that never ends.

I hope you are all doing well.

And all the best to you. Stay Safe Bicycle Repair Man!

I bought a few of those washers, and promptly broke one the other day. Happily enough, my '79 AW hub off a donor bike I found some time ago had the same size lockwashers. I ordered some more as well just in case. The sturmey dynohub is a '62 and in great shape. I found it, and two earlier examples from '47 and '48 (each with the bakelite terminal cover) for very cheap. I know they are heavy, but this is for a commuter / all-rounder sort of bike and wheelset. I plan to use one of the others for my fiance's '56 Sports with an early 50s sturmey lampset I bought off of UK eBay. If she likes the bike a lot when I'm finished making it road-worthy, next winter I'll build it a new alloy wheelset to lighten things up and improve the braking.

Those 1980s Schwinns made with Columbus or Tange DB tubing are really, really nice riding bikes. Being a '90 model, my Voyageur was made by Panasonic in Japan, but the ride and build quality are really something. Not three-speed related, but I like that era for Schwinn very much.

Nice to see you Sixty-Fiver. Thank you for the thread. It has inspired appreciation for all things C&V, hundreds of projects, and thousands of miles of accumulated three-speed riding by all of us over the years.