History of a Miyata 1000
 

I got this Miyata 1000 frame free for shipping from west coast to east coast, so it was not exactly free. But when I looked at the shop sticker on the seat tube it spoke to me - "Hand Assembled, Shaw's Lightweight Cycles San Jose California".
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3d94d77fe9.jpg
My in-laws lived in Campbell, just a mile or two from San Jose, and we visited them nearly every year. The frame still has a couple of bicycle license stickers attached.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f24d612ce4.jpg
The frame is from late 1983. The condition is "a bit scruffy", and I am going to put it together and keep it as my last road bike. It has a decent Tange Falcon headset and a new Sunlite 120mm bottom bracket (hope I got the size right on that). I bought a 26.8 Kalloy seatpost and now I can clamp it in the stand.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5161260945.jpg
The paint color in the photo looks a bit off. The actual color is a dark blue, almost purple. The frame came with the Dia-Compe canti's you see (960's maybe) and I'll keep them. I have some functional but rough looking 27" wheels; and maybe the brakes can adjust to 700c's.
I intend to use some kind of upright bar when I figure out what type of stem to use.

I forgot to mention that the frame came from philpeugeuot and was facilitated by swimmermike. Thanks to both.

Nice frame -- wasn't it in the pass-it-around thread? In any case, just be mindful of the cantis if they are indeed DC960s and you do not have the original straddle cable. Those take a double-ended straddle cable that is a devil to find, because it is in between the two common sizes being made today. The 960s take a 250mm cable, while the double-ended cables available today are either around 120mm or 360-380mm. I did several rounds of trial/error recently with my Univega Alpina, and I ended up scrapping them for Tektro CR720s, which are fantastic. Even DC 980s are easier to work with, since they take a single-ended cable with a cinch bolt on the other side. Looking forward to seeing it built up!

Is this the correct 250mm Dia Compe straddle cable? https://www.modernbike.com/dia-compe...wire-bag-of-10

Yup — it’s the same seller from whom I tried to buy, but was then told that they no idea when or if they would be restocked. I looked all over.

Ya know, I followed the link and I think you're right.

I just finished putting together a similar period Japanese bike (Fuji Touring Series IV). I did notice that the straddle cables that came with it were a bit shorter than the mountain bike ones I had. I know that my cantilever brakes are Dia Compe 960s. I am pretty sure they cannot be retrofitted for 700c wheels with the 960s. If you figure out how to retrofit it, then please let me know.

Enjoy your build.

Here’s another option in case you or anyone else needs one: https://www.biketoolsetc.com/Product...ble-250mm.html

I think the 960s are very difficult to adapt to 700c, and frankly, their performance leaves a lot to be desired. I’m partial to the 980 for vintage duty. Needs a loooooong straddle cable though.

While it was manufactured in late 1983, it is still a 1983 model, based on the logo font and frame features.

If you can't find the right straddle cable, these can help. Knarps

Recently picked up an almost all original 1985 Miyata Six Ten which apparently has the same frame as the 1000, just a different fork. Except for the pedals, everything is original, including the tires which are in surprisingly good shape for 37 years old. The Shimano brake hoods have some cracking where the cable exits the top. It's a nice ride but going back to downtube shifters will take practice after so many years of bar ends and brifters. I definitely don't need another bike but I couldn't walk away from this one.

I also look forward to seeing your 1000 built up.

If you need the bars up taller I found this combo to work well for me.

Sunlite North Road bars


Fito Stem (a bit of a knock off of Nitto Dirt drop stem)



I have that combo on 4 bikes now, I think. I sometimes loose track.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...26149ef89c.jpg

Bought the stem. I have some alloy north road bars, alloy trekking bars, and steel moustache bars already. Now I just need to select which to use. Once I chose handlebars, I'll need to select shifters and brake levers and straddle cables and find wheels and grips or tape and brake and shifter cables and pedals and a saddle and bits and pieces and...

I haven't had good luck with 960s- but other people have. I like the 981s better than the 980s.

For those playing along with copies of the home game- bikes with cantilever brakes had the posts spaced closer together than is the standard these days. And there was no "standard" back then. So even with brakes that ostensibly have enough travel "up/down" to make the 4mm change, because they're set closer to the rim, it makes it THAT much more difficult. So even very nice (and very expensive) modern brakes won't work (for 700c conversions OR 27") because they're designed to work with studs being spaced at a distance greater than 75mm. For a fun data point- my 1984 Schwinn Voyageur SP is spaced at 50 in the front. Yes. 50mm. So the trick is finding cantilever brakes that have the 4mm adjustability AND work at close distances. For me- that's a short list.

DiaCompe 981. Shimano XT MC70, M732. Suntour XC Pro.

I've read of others- and it stands to reason that the other Shimano variants based on the MC-70 and M730 brakes would work- as they're very similar geometry with differing metallurgy and features. I would say stick with medium profile brakes- low profile brakes were made later and wide profile brakes were made earlier. Sorta. There's outliers.

I guess if you're going to be sticking to "close to stock" or really close to "period correct," I'd roll with MC-70 or DC 981. If you were going for the best brakes that'll work- I'd go XC Pro or M732. IMO and all that.

I was absolutely stunned that the XTR brakes would not work on the back of my Trek 620. I *figured* they were close enough to the XC Pro brakes that it would be a slam dunk. Nope.

https://live.staticflickr.com/7918/4...85b044c6_b.jpgXT XTR1 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/4751/2...902aed01_b.jpgGrail Brakes by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr

I think I have found the straddle cables that fit, and also some knarps if the cables don't fit. Robbed a pair of wheels from a project that was going nowhere (crappy new tires, but they'll do for now). I wonder if I can get a decent chainline when I put it all together. We will see.

I have some NOS 8-speed Shimano bar-end shifters that work in friction mode - the left side can do 3 chain rings. I can't think of any reason not to use them on the Miyata 1000. It would not be period correct for a 1983 bike, but they are what I have on hand to shift a 5-speed freewheel. Down tube shifters are not an option at my age. I need all controls on the bars. BTW - I got my VO Porteur handlebars today.

I have the proper straddle cables and a pair of Grand Compe stradle cable pulley hangers are on the way.
Had to take a break from working on the bike due to a surgical procedure, but now I am on the mend. So I bought some silver braided cables from VO - brake and shifter. When I attempted to run the rear brake housing through the top tub guides i was stymied at the center guide. It had been crushed - not too bad - but bad enough to keep the housing from passing through it, so I had to figure a way to re-round the guide.
I was thinking of using an awl but the handle was too large - bad angle you know; then I considered a Phillips bit from drill/bit case, but that did'nt have the right taper. Finally I settled on a large nail set. The tip was small enough to fit in the guide, and with a few judiscious taps from both directions, the guide was opened enough to allow th housing to pass.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7c66ff5c03.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6a13a33a15.jpg

A bike worthy of your efforts and I love those porteur bars. I get the ones that fit bar cons.

That is what I bought. I was lucky enough to get two pair of down tube cable stops with adjusters for pocket change when I worked part-time at my LBS after retirement.