Are you sure the "catch" isn't the slight delay that happens sometimes if everything isn't fully aligned in the hub as you shift? I notice a slight (very slight) delay sometimes in the upshift to high but never thought much about it...even on the stand if I shift to high the cable goes loose for a fraction of a second before the shift fully happens. I assume that's because the spring hasn't had a chance to push the clutch back once the tension is off the cable....and its only a very small delay.

My indicator chains are all flexy on that last link, and given the rod is straight at that point the last link shouldn't need to be flexy anyway so I can't imagine a stiff link there hurting, but you never know.

What kind of Atoms?

Looks like the have "700" on them
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=433450
They came on a Falcon I bought in 1975. Eventually, they will go back on the Falcon.

Nice...how are they working for you?

They work well. They were on the Falcon until 1997 and then sat around for about 14 years or so. They clean up pretty well, but not as nice as some alloy parts. It seems they were not machined/polished as smoothly when originally manufactured. The cages are steel and are prone to rust a bit. Nice to have some decent quill pedals other than the new Sylvan pedals, which are very nice, and the Campagnolos with the black cages. Don't see the Atom pedals every day.

Hoop Driver Bicycles here in Toronto sells these repro vintage pedals that are quite good and very sturdy. $30.00/pair
https://threespeedmania.wordpress.co...intage-pedals/
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=433496http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=433497

Those MKS pedals seem to be available from several retailers, including Harris. I've installed a couple of their tourist model sets and a pair of Sylvan Prime road pedals which are a very nice repro of the old Campagnolo NR pedal, I think. If I happen to need some replacements, those look to be pretty nice and MKS appears to make good stuff.

They are good! I bought a pair of these Electra branded pedals but discovered they were hard plastic and not rubber (as the MKS' are).
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=433499Also bought a pair of these, not sure of the brand. also quite good.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=433500

The Minnehaha/Banjo Bros. are "ok" bags. They are based in Minneapolis, but the bags are made overseas. Cheaper than Carradice, but definitely cheaper for a reason, as the quality isn't as great. (And note that Carradice's quality has dropped somewhat over the years.) But they do satisfy that vintage look.

Not a Raleigh....A Flying Pigeon!
According to the man I bought this from it’s a 1957 (or so) Flying Pigeon that was bought at Eatons in Toronto for his landlord when the Raleigh (which this bike is modeled after) he wanted wasn’t available. This bike weighs close to 100 lbs and as far as I can tell, completely original right down to the Flying Pigeon brand tires. This model is equipped with rod and lever drum brakes. It's far too heavy for an everyday bike but comes out for shows. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=433568http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=433569http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=433570http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=433571http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=433572http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=433573

I've been trying to find a new home for a ladie's 3-speed Dunelt for a few weeks on CL...thought it would make somebody a nice winter project...no love for the old girl though.



Steve

Hey Steve, if I were in your area I'd come take a look. Out in Oregon though. Better luck in the Spring maybe?

This old thing has been serving me well... your old Carradice fits the '54 so well.

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...otle%20(3).JPG

I was wondering if those new tires are Specialized brand and if they have reflective sidewalls? IMO they compliment the bike quite well.

Wait...it's summer in Alberta? ;)

1967 Hercules 3-speed, womans $90.

1967 AMF Hercules Made in England Bike

Nice bike Sixty-Fiver, - nicely staged- well done!!

OK I have a problem and I hope someone here can help. I am wanting to change the sprocket on a Brampton hub. Its similar to a Sturmey Archer AW but there is no snap ring retaining the sprocket. I suspect it uses a track sprocket (I think I can see threads)- if so, how do you get it off without destroying the part??

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=433822http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=433823

While I totally agree that it would be nice to see that pretty woman reach over to put something in the front basket of her bike I gotta say that you paid way, WAY, too much for that ESGE.

Try THOR; while they specialize in the folders, the Pletschers are full sized and you just hack saw 'em off as needed.

Pletscher made in Switzerland

Interesting that you say that: "Of the 20 or so 3 speed hubs that have passed through my hands in the last few years I've only found one that was troublesome."

...as my experience has been the same since I was bitten by the 3-speed bug but...

I got a really nice '78 or so women's Raleigh Sports out of Charleston, SC a couple of years ago and have decided to surprise my sister with it as a gift. [she saw the bike and was quite smitten when her son, my nephew, retrieved it for me while he was working in the Holy City at the time]

Anyway, this hub just will not smooth out even though I have pretty much scrupulously followed the sage advice found earlier on in this thread regarding such matters.

On the stand, when I spin the rear wheel, it drags the crank along somewhat and will not spin freely for nearly as long as with ALL the other SA hubs on bikes I own. [This one is the coaster brake model; can't recall the Model # offhand]

I do have several other SA 3-speeds that do the same in regard to pulling the chain along when I spin the rear wheel when the bike is up on the stand but not nearly so much as this one thus it hasn't been an issue as I've been able to adjust them all to shift well.

Thoughts all?

This is the bike that started this madness almost 6300 posts back.

I can't see any outer thread where a lock ring would thread on, but if it is one of the threaded variants there was a special fixture to secure the driver body so you could turh the cog off with a chain whip.

This could be fabricated to do the job.

Those tires are Schwalbe Marathon Plus. They're supposed to be about the closest thing to bullet proof there is though some people say they feel like they're lead-lined. Feel fine to me, though, and it's a Sports, not an English racer.

I was looking at something yesterday and a reference to Specialized TriSport tires came up. They offer that tire in 26 1 3/8 for $15 each. I've never seen one and don't know if they have reflective sidewall. The Schwalbes do.

A similar question came up in my Black Widow thread because the very old SA AW hubs have a threaded on cog rather than the three tab jobbers. John D Thompson, in that thread, said:

Somebody pointed out earlier in this thread that having the rear wheel move the chain while coasting is caused by having the axle bearings too tight. I have experimented with bearing preload with the wheel off the bike and this seems to be true. If you tighten up the bearings, it will not coast properly. So, first thing to do is to loosen up the left side, tighten the right side IAW instructions, then the left side so that you get ever-so-slight play at the rim.

Something else I've noticed is that the balls in the ball race -- the big round race -- don't seem to get as clean as easily as the other ball bearings (i.e. the axle balls). So, if adjusting the axle bearings doesn't do the trick, loosen up the axle cones and take apart the right side so that you can remove the driver. Make sure that the cone on the driver that makes contact with the ball ring balls is clean and gum free. Check the functioning of that bearing setupo by hand by turning the driver cone against the balls. I've found some roughness on a couple hubs when I've done this. A little bit of solvent with an acid brush has cleaned the crud from the balls and race and cone so that everything turns freely. Or, you can pop the seal off the balls and clean it properly.

I think that if you get all three sets of ball bearings clean and get the axle bearings installed and the cones adjusted properly that your problems will go away.

[MENTION=275798]PalmettoUpstate[/MENTION] - I, too, after completely disassembling/cleaning/lubing my SA AG Dyno-Three hub had slight pedal "ghost" turning as I walked the bike around. I did that to test because it could mean that:
1. the chain is too tight
2. the cones are adjusted too tightly.

In my case I was careful to ensure that the chain was properly tensioned and I didn't feel that "slightly perceptible" play at the rim, so with the wheel still in place, I loosened the left side axle nut, adjusted the cone slightly, then retightened everything. I felt slight, almost imperceptible play at the rim. I walked the bike around, just pushing it and the pedals no longer turned on their own.

i paid nothing for the bike so 45 bucks for a correct kickstand isn't that bad ( which I still haven't got) . It's a 28 mile survivor so I want it to look correct .