As stated, best to remove the glue, and +1 for use of a brass wire wheel. :thumb:
I also subscribe to the theory of 'diminishing returns'; and it may be better for the rim if a small amount of hard, dried glue remains rather than grind away to get the hardest glue spots off. For rims with excessive dried glue, I use wire wheel then a solvent. But for a wheel with minimal glue and zero flaking, I have glued over it without an issue. With so many tubular wheelsets (8), I check them regularly for issues, both adhesion and tread condition. Many people glue to excess - probably me!!! |
The red glue in Patriot's photo up above is pre-historic mastice gutta. Comes off easy and quick with paint thinner. Which we used to do when it got on side of rim or wherever.
I can remember removing tape from other people's used rims. Only worth it if the rim is something rare. Otherwise 51 years on tubulars and don't think I ever removed glue. Wouldn't breathe solvent fumes just for that. |
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d61f89de6e.jpg
I gave up on stinking, messy chemicals. An electric drill with wire brush or abrasive attachment wheel will clean a tubular rim quickly, thoroughly and without damage. Do wear gloves, because when it slips the spinning wire wheel hurts. Goggles a good idea, too. |
Originally Posted by Steve Whitlatch
(Post 20314074)
The glue I removed with Goo Gone was red. I am not sure the Goo Gone did much besides act as a lubricant and keep the glue form just moving to another spot and sticking. As the glue comes off with the steel wool it gets coated with goo gone oil. That is my guess anyway. Those glue remover chemicals never worked for me very well. The Goo Gone made it easy and cut the time in half. :)
|
has anyone tried these? I know I got the original link from C&V?
Mavic Reflex CD Ultegra Tubular Wheel Set Mavic Reflex CD Ultegra Tubular Wheel Set |
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...99e039a147.jpg
I picked up a box of glue from a shop going out of business. Never tried this glue but the price was right. Anything I need to know? |
Originally Posted by Steve Whitlatch
(Post 20566877)
I picked up a box of glue from a shop going out of business. Never tried this glue but the price was right. Anything I need to know?
I know it sounds involved and very slow, but it's one of those things I find kind of therapeutic, so I don't mind the time or process. HTH... |
Originally Posted by Steve Whitlatch
(Post 20566877)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...99e039a147.jpg
I picked up a box of glue from a shop going out of business. Never tried this glue but the price was right. Anything I need to know? By comparison, stuff like Conti glue will get properly firm when it cures. In fact, you could say that it gets hard to the touch. Tubasti, IIRC, stays rather sticky and will stick to anything. Possibly handy when it comes to a spare tubular, and perhaps nice to have on the rim when you need to install a spare. The only thing I recall is that when the tube leaks, it gets all over anything nearby and is tough to clean up! :) well, there's also the poem that Aldo Ross on the Classic Rendezvous list wrote: Tubasti on the sidewalls Tubasti on the spokes Tubasti on my workbench Sticking to the nuts and bolts Tubasti on my fingers Tubasti on my arms Tubasti on my chin and cheeks I hope it won't cause harm Tubasti on the light switch Tubasti on the cat Tubasti on my shoes and socks And on my car's floor mat Tubasti on the carpet Tubasti in my hair I tried to glue just one damn tire Now Tubasti's everywhere! don't say you weren't warned. ;) Steve in Peoria |
Originally Posted by squirtdad
(Post 20508609)
Challenge Criterium Tubular (320TPI) black and white $31.93https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/chall...0tpi/#pid=6584 Never tried them. |
Originally Posted by Steve Whitlatch
(Post 20566877)
I picked up a box of glue from a shop going out of business. Never tried this glue but the price was right. Anything I need to know?
Mineral spirits (aka thinner or coleman fuel) works well for cleanup, the secret appears to be only use the rag for a wipe or so then replace, otherwise the glue on the rag just spreads. As far as applying, instructions says rim only. I'm not usually comfortable with that so will apply to the basetape as well then let it dry for an hour before mounting. You will need a thick coating for it to work. I apply a blob and spread with an acid brush - usually two segments between spoke holes per blob - try to keep it off the outside of the rim. I wipe the top edge of the rim with a rag and mineral spirits before mounting, otherwise the tire sticks while pushing the tire over the edge. Take a slow spin around the block to even out the tire. I'll glue up a tire and then couple days later deflate it and test the hold. If it comes off easily, I didn't put enough on. Rip the tire off and put more on the rim. A quick rub of mineral spirits on the tire softens up that glue for mounting. Agreed it stays tacky. If all this scares you, I'll be glad to take the tubasti off your hands. Joe |
Thanks for the heads up on Tubasti being messy. I will wear throw away painters clothes and cover the area with drop cloths when I glue with it. I got a bit of the stuff on my pants and hands when I opened one up to check if it was still good. I wish I had seen this before I did that. LOL
It seems to be a bit thin and wet compared to Continental glue. I will figure it out. I`m sure the first tire I glue will not look very pretty when I am done. By the third tire I will be a pro. :) |
One disadvantage (IMO) of Tubasti is its color. White.
|
Originally Posted by jcb3
(Post 20567184)
I really like tubasti - totally old school and most appropriate for C+V. It does get all over the place, but that is part of its charm - a Saturday afternoon with tubasti everywhere: priceless!.
Mineral spirits (aka thinner or coleman fuel) works well for cleanup, the secret appears to be only use the rag for a wipe or so then replace, otherwise the glue on the rag just spreads. Joe |
Not sure what Coleman fuel is, but "mineral spirits" "paint thinner, and "white gas" are all the same thing:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit |
Originally Posted by CV-6
(Post 20568108)
One disadvantage (IMO) of Tubasti is its color. White.
White? Mine looks the same color as Continental glue. Maybe mine is an older or newer formula? |
Originally Posted by Steve Whitlatch
(Post 20568181)
White? Mine looks the same color as Continental glue. Maybe mine is an older or newer formula?
|
Originally Posted by Classtime
(Post 20568174)
A bit of thread drift but.... Coleman fuel is Mineral Spirits?! In California, "paint thinner" has replaced Mineral Spirits on the shelves at the paint and hardware stores so the s is good news to me. I think we still have white gas. I get Crown Camp Fuel for gasoline lanterns at Walmart - for about half the price of coleman fuel. |
Originally Posted by CV-6
(Post 20568266)
I am guessing a newer formula as I have not used Tubasti in 20 years.
|
Originally Posted by Steve Whitlatch
(Post 20567849)
It seems to be a bit thin and wet compared to Continental glue. I will figure it out. I`m sure the first tire I glue will not look very pretty when I am done. By the third tire I will be a pro. :) |
Originally Posted by Steve Whitlatch
(Post 20566877)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...99e039a147.jpg
I picked up a box of glue from a shop going out of business. Never tried this glue but the price was right. Anything I need to know? I used it once and rolled a tire, which soured me on it permanently. I only ever happened to me that one time. Given that I was 15 and not an experienced mechanic, improper application was at least partly to blame. In retrospect, I think I'd put at least 3 coats on a new rim, maybe 4, and let the first two dry before the final sticky coat. Also put a coat on the tire. Let dry for longer than it says to on the tube. I'd physically test it by pulling on the tire to see how stuck it is. |
Originally Posted by Salamandrine
(Post 20568325)
FWIW this was considered by many people to be the tourist glue, at least by the racing set. It stays sticky, so it's convenient if you get a flat. Still, I knew some good racers who preferred it. It is a lot thinner than Clement red was.
I used it once and rolled a tire, which soured me on it permanently. I only ever happened to me that one time. Given that I was 15 and not an experienced mechanic, improper application was at least partly to blame. In retrospect, I think I'd put at least 3 coats on a new rim, maybe 4, and let the first two dry before the final sticky coat. Also put a coat on the tire. Let dry for longer than it says to on the tube. I'd physically test it by pulling on the tire to see how stuck it is. |
Got to keep this thread going :)
OK as usual for me, I get a great bike cheap or free and then obsess over the build (in this case I was justified because the crankset was to small for me :) ) It is a an '84 team miyata and I am trying to bring it back to close to it's original appearance if not specs In this case original means gum wall tubular. I probably should bite the bullet. be done with it, etc and get the Corsa G+, but this is not my prime rider and I want to save some bucks..... I would like to put a a little (or lot) less expensive tire on it. Would prefer to have a removable valve core for sealant or can sealant be forced in through a non-removable valve core? or just not bother and as they are cheap just get extra tires? Any way the usual suspects at the low end with gumwall seem to be Vittoria Rally Continental Giro Yellow Jacket 3 for 50 Thoughts, experience, invective? thanks |
YJ tubulars 3 for $50 have been surprisingly good. Mount straight, no lumps. Not as good a ride as the pricier tubs (like the Corsa G+) but for the price, hard to beat.
UPDATE: the YJ tubs are 23mm |
I've used the Conti Giro and the Yellow Jersey sew-ups, and they've been functional. The Giro is probably a better tire, though.
Currently, I've got a Yellow Jersey tire as my spare. Are the Conti Giro's still gumwall? I'm using the Sprinter on one bike, and it's progressed from dark brown sidewall (previous generation) to black sidewall. Too modern looking for my tastes. Steve in Peoria |
Originally Posted by squirtdad
(Post 20661834)
Got to keep this thread going :)
OK as usual for me, I get a great bike cheap or free and then obsess over the build (in this case I was justified because the crankset was to small for me :) ) It is a an '84 team miyata and I am trying to bring it back to close to it's original appearance if not specs In this case original means gum wall tubular. I probably should bite the bullet. be done with it, etc and get the Corsa G+, but this is not my prime rider and I want to save some bucks..... I would like to put a a little (or lot) less expensive tire on it. Would prefer to have a removable valve core for sealant or can sealant be forced in through a non-removable valve core? or just not bother and as they are cheap just get extra tires? Any way the usual suspects at the low end with gumwall seem to be Vittoria Rally Continental Giro Yellow Jacket 3 for 50 Thoughts, experience, invective? thanks I have tried the Vittoria Rally and the Continental Giro and was less than impressed/ |
Originally Posted by squirtdad
(Post 20661834)
Got to keep this thread going :)
OK as usual for me, I get a great bike cheap or free and then obsess over the build (in this case I was justified because the crankset was to small for me :) ) It is a an '84 team miyata and I am trying to bring it back to close to it's original appearance if not specs In this case original means gum wall tubular. I probably should bite the bullet. be done with it, etc and get the Corsa G+, but this is not my prime rider and I want to save some bucks..... I would like to put a a little (or lot) less expensive tire on it. Would prefer to have a removable valve core for sealant or can sealant be forced in through a non-removable valve core? or just not bother and as they are cheap just get extra tires? Any way the usual suspects at the low end with gumwall seem to be Vittoria Rally Continental Giro Yellow Jacket 3 for 50 Thoughts, experience, invective? thanks Panaracer Practice 270 black/tan. Three for $90 should be the ballpark retail discount. I've been getting them for less through a LBS (wholesale and when they place large restock orders) Also consider Tufo S33 pro when on sale. Seem as if they were machined on a lathe. Butyl tube. |
Kinda hard to beat tubulars at $0.06 a pair. Even if I have to fill them to the gills with Orange Seal. That's me, your friendly neighborhood bottom feeder. ;) https://www.ebay.com/itm/173622247985 |
The YJ tires do have a vintage kind of look to them - they're narrow and intended for high pressure and ride hard... but I remember thinking that was cool in 1984.
And IME, they fail less than V or C brand cheapies. |
Cheapies are good to just start with and get used to mounting tubs on rims and have an idea what the difference in ride is between most clinchers and tubs. But after graduating to higher quality tubs, I now just relegate my Rallys and Giros to spare tire duties, just to get me through a ride after a flat. The whole point of tubular tires is to get the best ride, and the cheapies just don't provide enough of an improvement over clinchers to make them worth it in the long run.
|
well I pulled the trigger.....trying the Challenge Elite Pro 25mm/removable core/black and tan at $28.99 from probike will report out
meanwhile I have a set of corsa g+ clinchers to installs damn this addiction :) |
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