That is really a beautiful bike. I can understand not wanting the expense of lacing in a drum brake or restoring a front rod system. But...Remember those brake adjuster arms on the steering tubes of center pull brake bikes? If you replaced the lamp bracket with one of those and made a pinch bolt adapter to bolt onto a stirrup, you could have a cable activated stirrup front brake. There's plenty of return spring power in the stirrup for a front brake. I really don't think the coil return spring on the DL-1 handlebars is necessary. Just a thought.

Yellow Jersey's prices on Fibrax pads are WAY inflated. When I bought a bike's worth of pads last year, it was cheaper to buy them from the UK, even with shipping included. Thankfully Harris sells the roadster pads for $11 a set, plus shipping.
Fibrax SH70 Rod Brake Shoe (PAIR) - Harris Cyclery bicycle shop - West Newton, Massachusetts

Modern rack on 73 Raleigh Superbe
 

I had this modern rear rack that I desired to mount on my '73 Raleigh Superbe. I bought the bike with the rack missing, so a modern one installed wouldn't be a crime. I prefer the prestolite mousetrap the was originally installed, but this would be a quick and easy upgrade. Nope!
Turns out the rack didn't fit anywhere. I had to machine small risers to raise up the back supports so they would clear the tire. 1 1/2" taller, machined out to clear the flat stamped into the original strut.Attachment 536649


Machined in the back at the bottom to bolt up the the Raleigh dropouts


A plastic nylon clamp was fabricated



looks mint!

All good suggestions, BC. If I found a 3 speed hub w/ coaster brake I might consider it...I don't think I've ever seen one although I know they exist.

I have had several bikes with the old Sturmey 3 speed coasters on them. It's one of the areas where Sturmey came up sort of short in the past. The TCW series is OK, but the braking is weak and the neutral can cause you to lose brake power. The S3C fixed the neutral/no brake issue, but the brake power is still weak. The AWC isn't a bad hub, but can self-destruct under the right conditions. The modern Sturmey coasters made today are actually better than the old hubs enough that I'd consider just getting a new Sturmey 3 speed coaster brake for a bike that's going to be ridden a lot or used as a commuter-- SRC3 or S30.

I have no experience with the new Sturmey Archer hubs, but the XRD-5(W) sure looks like it would be nice on a roadster. I would prefer a hand lever drum brake to a coaster and 5 speeds would be nice

In other news. Vice with sockets didn't work, hammer and punch didn't work. Next up is having my friend help me with a drill.
Im tired of these darn things. Hopefully it works and hopefully these cranks are not to messed up when we are done.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8250/2...a88f3b2d_z.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8100/2...c000d61d_z.jpg

If you can get a hold of a cotter pin press, it should not be that difficult. Park used to make one many year ago and some bike shops may still have them. My local guy has one and I have borrowed from him in the past.

Mark makes one that I have and it works great. His address should on the pic of the tool.

http://bikesmithdesign.com/CotterPress/Press.jpg

Took the DL-1 out for a shakedown ride the day before yesterday, ended up doing 24 miles on the virginia creeper trail. I had no time to work on the brakes before heading out, so they remained sketchy. Yesterday I moved and readjusted everything using your picture as guidance, and its much quicker on the decel. as a result.

The fresh crop of Tourist pictures in the last couple of pages wash the push over the edge that I needed. I'll soon be retiring the original Dunlop roadster tires (cracked and rotted, I've no clue how they didnt explode 2 miles into the creeper ride) in favor of a set of creme Delta Cruisers. An older bottle generator and lights set is on its way as well. After pics soon to come.

One more thing- Ive got an old rat trap rack I'd love to install on this bike. Unfortunately, it came off a 26" wheeled bike. Is it worth trying to hold out til i can find an original DL-1 rack, or ahould it just mount this one up a bit on the seat stays and be done with it?

You might have an issue attaching the rack onto the bottle shaped seat stays also. Might take some creative engineering, but if done well, that can add personality to a bike IMO.

Sorry you had to run into this problem. This is the third time this condition has happened on this thread in the past 6 months or so. Both other times success was had by drilling, but it is an arduous task. Drilling steel with a hand drill isn't easy, so make sure you have sharp drills and start with a strong center punch to make sure the drill won't walk off center. Good luck.

I posted this in the where did you ride but figured it would make a nice contribution to this thread. 1978 Raleigh Superbe on the Alex Fraser Bridge overlooking the Fraser river. Not too many other three speeds around here due to the topography.

http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...psjmzlstlw.jpg

It is much easier for me to get access to a hydraulic press. Anyone ever use one to remove cotters? If so, anything to be careful of?

Hwith a pic of my recently restored Raleigh 3 speed Sturmey Archer FROM 1974,
https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8179/2...aaa2e410_h.jpg

You can buy a new SA 3 speed w / coaster... just built up such a wheel for a DL1 as the customer is a big guy who in not that enthusiastic about the rod brakes when it rains so now he has a third brake.

This is not the first time I have done this upgrade and have built up a lot of these wheels, they are also particularly nice for the Raleigh 20 which has an abysmal rear brake.

Okay Sturmey Archer people, identify THIS one:
I found a guy selling this SA model AB hub brake hub.
It looks brand new, there are no telltale spoke stretch marks around any holes, and as you can see, the threads look like they've never had a nut tightened on them, or a had dropout around the flats.
Date code seems like its just the letter I
40 spoke holes stamped on the hub.
Three cogs look like they are installed from the factory, going into the same clip type arrangement common on any AW hub Ive seen.

so, what the hell are these three cogs doin on this
is it a NINE SPEED

This thing weighs 3.8 pounds.
The cogs are 23t, 19t, and 15t
Yes, it is for sale.

There's two advantages to a dedicated cotter press. One is that it's easy to position on the crank. Home made jigs tend to be clumsy. The second is that the punch is concave which helps to ensure the force is directed squarely on the pin. At some pressure point, the threaded end of the pin will bend, so the more stable and square the punch is, the more pressure can be applied before the pin bends.

The unit was likely used with a Cyclo dérailleur. This was a setup most likely used in the 1950s.

It looks like it is still possible to use the press- a ball bearing might sit nicely in the cotter-press' cup. But I would try to apply it directly first.

As has been stated on this thread many times its best to start with a cotter pin press when removing cotter pins before resorting to other means. In this case since there does not seem to be much in the way of rust, there is still a good change that a press could be effective.

I would really like to try an air chisel/air hammer on a stuck cotter some time. I've found that impact guns are amazing on stuck bolts/nuts.

Nice shot! I brought my three speed up to Vancouver on New Years 2015. I found that the Raleigh Wayfarer did OK in town, though I do have it geared low (23 tooth cog). Vancouver is definitely "hillier" than Portland, but not as hilly as Seattle!
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7513/1...523b7d7d_z.jpg

Three-cog setup for the Benelux conversion. I have a complete NOS set in the box. Here's an illustration but it's not on a 3-speed hub.

http://www.flying-scot.com/miscellan.../cyclo_mk7.gif

Good Evening to all,
Just a couple of questions for your consideration....

In a Raleigh Superbe with filter switch unit (4.5 volts)
What is the correct lamp voltage?
In mine a 6v is fitted making the light very dim when not pedaling.
The dynamo is 6 volts, so thats why a 6 volt lamp is fitted ?

On a cable operated brake (side pull) is there a recommended
way to center the brakes ?
On a modern V brake you have tension adjusters to do this
just wondered if any similar method could be used on three
speed side pull cable brakes.

Regards and have a nice one

Very nice photo and bike. Do you have a closer photo of it? Looks like the beach on the way to UBC. I have only been through the PDX airport, never in the city and while having visited Seattle a few times I haven't gone biking. It is on the list.

I've got a photo from Christmas Day 2015 from nearly the same area.


http://i1037.photobucket.com/albums/...ps90hjrvdj.jpg

Yep, it was taken at Jericho Beach! The bike is my Raleigh Wayfarer, which I obtained in 2010 and built up to a great commuter/fun machine with much much help from the OP. (Thanks, sixtyfiver!) Alas, it is no longer a bike, as I stripped the frame of a lot of good bits for my current three speed, a 1968 Raleigh Superbe. A lot of photos of the Wayfarer are here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/urbana...7627977286149/

Here's a good shot of "Version 2.0" of the Wayfarer, after new mudguards and new paint job:
https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3859/1...68b71283_z.jpg

To the first, yes.

To the latter, a bit of trial and error; loosen the mounting nut, bias the brake so the cable side is away from the rim and tighten it down. Then operate the brake and see how it looks. Further adjustment may be needed.