Just use some Goof Off and a rag to remove the mastic from the rims. Using a brush on a drill just sprays the bits hither and yon. Usually the hither is various components and the yon is one of my eyes, that's why I use safety glasses.

Bill

I use tape exclusively, and have never had that problem. It always stuck to the rim. So much that I've twice forgotten to re-tape.

I have read the entire thread, in about a week. Seems like something I'd like to try. Ideally I would go YJ, cheap, to learn the ropes and see if I like it. Actually, I live in Mexico and, though they might ship here, and they might actually arrive, there would be duty to pay.
I will search out a wheel, or rim set preferably. And I will see what glue is available. Tires are not cheap here. Even cheap tires are not cheap. Slow and steady.

Something to do when it's too hot to ride?

If you do try sewups, make sure they have removable valve cores so you can squirt some Stan's Tire Seal in them. Also check out TireAlert.com. Or consider that patching sewups is something else to do when it's too hot to ride.

Just make sure you get the can with the handy-dandy well-ventilated area included in the box.

Working garage door, functioning fan and operable window all are there, and get used every time.

I use an off the shelf contact cement to glue my tubs on, DAP, Weldtite contact cement. The 3M product used for so many years was discontinued, I understand its been reformulated now, however. Works just as well as the tire manufacturers' branded stuff, and costs a fraction of the price. Hardware stores and the big box home improvement stores have to on their shelves in several sizes, acid flux brushes come from Amazon, in bulk.

Bill

Just got 5 tubular rims , two sets and a spare for $20 total. This will be my first attempt at tubulars.

One set of Campagnolo Record rims has mismatched tires, red and black. Only one of the Nasbar set has a tire and it's black. Is it worth it to try and remove these tires so I can have a matched set??

Asking because new tubulars add up.

Also rims were previously glued and most spoke holes had been filled with a clear silicone type substance (to ensure they are sealed?). What can I use to fill the holes? I cleaned the rim surfaces and now they are clear but also stripped out theat silicone type stuff.

I don't know what that clear silicon was put there for. Never heard of it being don.e Never did it or needed it. I'd just ignore it.

You won't like it if you use the YJ tires. I would recommend not using tubulars if that is your plan.

YJ tires are perfectly acceptable as a spare, nothing else.

No need to fill any holes.

But if you must, there are mini corks made specifically for the job. I think they are silly, but if it floats your boat, by all means, knock yourself out.

Won't fill holes then but assuming not worth effort transferring tire from one rim to another?

If the color mismatch bothers you then do it. It will be good practice for when you need to do a real tire installation.

But I would be more concerned about the quality of the tire than about its color. How old are they? How much tread do they have? Is the tread covered with a zillion tiny cuts from the previous owner's riding? Can you trust that they were glued well? What sort of tires are they anyway? If you are going to ride tubulars, you might as well ride good ones. You will need to know how to install a new one if you ever get a flat on the road that Stan's Tire Seal won't fix.

Tufo S33 Pros are great starter tires - $30 each, nearly impossible to flat, last forever, and constructed such that sealant works very well.

Ride like gator skins, and not a lot of love to be found for TUFOs, but a good gateway to get over the fear of tubulars.

I’m now riding vittoria pave and like them a lot, although they only last me 1200 miles on a rear.

jimmuller - tires are old but have no nicks or cuts. Previous owner had rebuilt hubs a year ago and then hardly ridden. Was thinking that besides aesthetics it would give me a cheaper chance to learn than maybe wrecking a new tire.

No, so you have a spot where you can grab the tire and get the removal started, without tearing off your Presta valve.

Personally, I'd recommend the YJs for an initial look at how tubies are fitted and how they feel. They when you try the best ones, you'll be wowed.

for a few buck more go with these Challenge Elite Pro $26 from probike kit.....

black or black and tan..... 220 tpi...... I don't have a ton of miles on mine yet but can say putting them on gl330 rims was no problem, quality looks good and the rid is amazing

https://www.probikekit.com/bicycle-t...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

For cheap tubular tires...…. why for goodness sake, why???
But people always ask.

For a really damped ride, from a cotton tubular, Vittoria Rally. Buy 3, have a spare.
For a harder tire, but sharp in it's handling when pumped = Conti Giro.


I have no experience with YJ or Tufo or Michelin or Challenge, or the cheap Richey

As always mentioned in this thread, Vittoria Rallys are at best. Just an "introductory" tubular tire for people that just want to try out tubs for a first time to get a sort of idea how the ride on tubs are different from the typical clincher tire. And also a good training tool for how to glue and mount tubs to rims. At this point, the good condition Rallys thst I started out with are now delegated to spare tire duty for my bikes that I take with me on the road.....
If someone would really like to know how superior the ride and handling is with tubs, one hast at least try a mid level brand model, which would provide a ride that would definitely be very different from clinchers. My current favorite tubular tire these days is the Vittoria Corsa G. Fast, light, really smooth, lively....and did I mention FAST??!!

Why do people insist on claiming cheap tubulars will give a notion on how they feel?

I'll tell you how they feel, like ****. I would recommend Paselas over cheap tubulars in every circumstance. A great clincher is better than any mid-range tubular. The only way you get an idea of the "advantage" to tubulars is to spend money. Which is the only disadvantage to tubulars, their cost.

tubs.... That word triggers me , I have to go to my safe place .

Steel Dremel brush tips will NOT hurt dark anodized rims. Been using such for some years now to remove hard old glue on my dark anodized rims with no problem. Yes, you can hurt your dark anodized rim finish with them IF you apply way too much pressure and if you keep the spinning brush against the same spot way too long. the secret to best performance with the steel Dremel brush tips is to just use moderate pressure, letting the brush do the work and keep the tip moving.
Also, if you are using steel Dremel brush tips, make sure you get the stainless steel version of the brush tip as they last much longer than the regular steel brush tips. A bit more expensive, but the stainless steel brush tips easily pays for themselves as you can double the number of wheels you can clean with each tip.

Ritchey Comp Race Slick tubular tires...they appear to be dirt cheap. Any experience?

https://www.merlincycles.com/ritchey...0c-110825.html

I dunno, I like the YJ 3 pack. If I've got to use skinny tires, I'd much rather ride on cheap tubies than 21mm clinchers. They've got a removable valve core, (which I don't think the Rally's do) so with some sealant I don't have to be anxious about pinch flatting at every bump or not dodging all of the road debris. A luxurious ride they most certainly are not, but from a pragmatic standpoint I think they're a better deal than even mid-range skinny clinchers.