Xt Is this Crank fully seated?
 

I was trying to remove this craink on my Giant hybrid with the Park tool and it wouldnt budge. I noticed the bracket cartridge male shaft square key had a gap of 1/8 inch in the crank female square shaft. I checjec th druve side and it was the same way, So I guess thats thd way it is, or is it?
Jusf seems the crank is flush with the bracket on m uhh other bikes.
Funny thjng is I have had this bike 3 years and never noticed this.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8de1d2bb8f.jpg

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uh

Here is a better pictute.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6226944b82.jpg

How far into the crank arm tapered hole does the axle go? What's the torque you used for the retaining bolt? Andy

Thanks for your help. I will post a picture tomorrow showing what's underneath the edge bolt on both the drive side and non drive side. They actually match!
Insofar as torque is concerned you're talking to a guy who shears automotive bolts. Recognizing I an working on bikes now, I tried a bit hard, but I knew when to stop.

I googled my bike -- a Toughroad- and I found a picture showing there is a gap.

The important issue isn't how much of the taper is visible, but rather how the arm is seated on the spindle:

I am still wondeing.Trouble is I cant even budge it so I can inspect the inside geometry to see if its fully seated. Its on there tight and the Park tool wont budge it.

Check carefully to be sure there isn't a washer at the bottom of the crank's extractor opening. If there is it will prevent the extractor from working.

no there isn"r one, but thats the kind of mistsle i would make

The classic trick with a too tight cotterless arm is to leave the retaining bolt a tad loose and go ride the bike. In time the arm will migrate off the axle and the still there bolt will prevent real damage. Andy