Is there a way to tighten a freewheel?
I'm not talking about tightening it on the wheel but tightening the freewheel itself. My Suntour
Winner freewheel has a very small amount of inward outward play holding the center ring causing a slight creaking sound that vibrates into the frame.Can this play be tightened any way? |
Besides the noise is there a functional issue? If not, then I suggest just flushing and lubing the freewheel. The creaking is likely from rough bearing surfaces (be they rust or pitting) and/or a lack of lube. Freewheels really like a slight freeplay, call it negative preload:). As long as it's not enough to cause auto shifting the freeplay, onto itself, is not usually an issue. However a slightly tight/too great a preload, can cause all kinds of coasting problems. Andy
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
(Post 22345522)
Besides the noise is there a functional issue? If not, then I suggest just flushing and lubing the freewheel. The creaking is likely from rough bearing surfaces (be they rust or pitting) and/or a lack of lube. Freewheels really like a slight freeplay, call it negative preload:). As long as it's not enough to cause auto shifting the freeplay, onto itself, is not usually an issue. However a slightly tight/too great a preload, can cause all kinds of coasting problems. Andy
The is no play at all on the shimano freewheel |
They were often adjusted with thin washers between the freewheel hub and body. Not a job for the faint of heart.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...o-heavy-3.html |
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SunTour "Perfect" and "Pro-Compe" freewheels used shims to adjust the bearing pre-load. The "Winner" freewheels used a cup-and-cone arrangement with a special wrench to set the pre-load:
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
(Post 22345636)
SunTour "Perfect" and "Pro-Compe" freewheels used shims to adjust the bearing pre-load. The "Winner" freewheels used a cup-and-cone arrangement with a special wrench to set the pre-load:
PS I have (or had) that tool. Brings back some good old memories! |
I never run vintage freewheels like that with non-ramped teeth anymore. With ramped teeth the shifting is 100x better, especially with friction shifters. Much less fumbling around with the shifter to get it in the perfect position. I use Sunrace freewheels and despite the fact that you can buy them for $10-15 they are very good quality. Shimano also makes them but I think theirs are ugly with a black big cog and huge logo.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18522038986...0aAp8lEALw_wcB |
Remove the cogs, don’t open it up, soak in solvent and let dry. You might use compressed air.
After dry, drip in Phil’s Tenacious Oil until it quiets down. It may, or may not, solve your problem completely, but it is the route I would go. John |
Originally Posted by 70sSanO
(Post 22346895)
Remove the cogs, don’t open it up, soak in solvent and let dry. You might use compressed air.
After dry, drip in Phil’s Tenacious Oil until it quiets down. It may, or may not, solve your problem completely, but it is the route I would go. John |
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