Runner Turned Cyclist? Need Advice
 

Recently injured runner and started biking as cross training. I ended up liking it much more than I thought I would. I love being able to bike for 3+ hours and feel fine the next day. I loved watching the tour this year. I don't think I am very good at it. Here are some things that I think are holding me back. Is this normal for a beginner?

1. I am terrified of going fast. Anything over 24mph feels like I am going to crash and die. Going downhill is even worse. Is this just something that takes time to get better at?

2. My bike is pretty old. It's a Trek 1220 from 1996. Very little maintenance has been done in the past 5-7 years. Taking it to a bike shop this week.

3. My bike just has regular pedals so I'm not able to pull up on them.

4. My bike is too big for me. Probably made for someone 5 inches taller.

I can't say whether or not that's normal for a beginner, but I would say that it doesn't strike me as being unusual for someone on an ill-fitting bike with questionable maintenance.

Do you have an idea of what the bike shop visit is going to cost you? It may be worthwhile to see how far those funds would go towards a better fitting bike.

With more riding will come confidence in riding at speed. Until then, just go slower.

Old bike is OK, but bike that does not fit is not. I sounds like your bike is way too big! You will be a lot more confident on a bike that fits.

Regular pedals are fine. You can try the special "clipless" pedals and shoes once you get more cycling experience. Or not... I used them for mountain biking, but for the casual, non-competitive cycling I do flat pedals are just fine.

I took it to a Trek store and they said around $450

You will probably never feel confident on a bike that is that much too big for you

$450 for the work to be done on it? If so, no way - I wouldn't sink that kind of money in to a bike that doesn't fit.

agreed. you can get a low-end, but totally serviceable new bike for $1,500. get one that fits, ride the heck out of it, if you're still bitten by the cycling bug you can sell it in a few years and upgrade.

Get a bike that fits properly.

Do it now and thank me later. Even if it's old/used, fit is really important.

Thank you! I really appreciate all of the responses.

If I were to get a new bike would it be possible to find something that I could race on for less than $1,000? Is there a thread on here that has discussed budget racing bikes?

What is your experience riding in a group?. Bicycle racing involves being a safe enough bike handler to be able to ride in close proximity to other cyclists at high speeds. It also depends on what you consider to be a race. Things like charity rides are not races. $1000 for a race level bike would mean buying second hand and you might run into some of the problems you are having with your current bike unless you become really good at assessing the mechanical condition of the bikes you are looking at as well as being able to figure out proper bike fit. My recommendation once you find a bike is that you look around and find a cycling club to join. There you can acquire the skills to ride safely in a group before you try to jump into racing. If you look at my avatar, the picture was taken during the Coupe des Ameriques which was at the time the North American championship stage race for master racers. I was on the front at the time

Yes but probably you are looking at used. Maybe a used CAAD with 105 groupset from a few years ago, but remember FIT is KEY.

Or cough up 1500 for a NEW one.

New under $1000? That's a hard no. However, depending on where you are Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace can be a goldmine. You don't need a new bike right away, but finding a quality used ride that physically fits you will do absolute wonders for your enjoyment, and your wallet.

A lot of people bought some very, very nice pandemic bikes and are now realizing they make terrible clothes hangars. Keep an eye out for people just trying to clear space in their garage, especially since we are getting later in the riding season.

These are extreme examples, but I got a 2001 Trek 2200 for $20 that I put less than $400 in to, and my cousin found a 2021 REI CO-OP ADV 2.1 for $50 (new, $1050 on sale currently). One new brake cable and a quick derailleur adjustment later and it did a 65mi ride the next week.

I agree with finding a group ride/shop ride/ club, or something where you can ride with experienced riders before you consider racing. It's not like running.

Definitely don't invest in a bike that doesn't fit. A Cannondale CAAD would be a decent starter bike which can be raced. You're going to have to figure out what size you need first.

As far as downhill speed, some people never get comfortable with it and that's ok. Some go crazy before they have the skill or brains to handle speed.

Even if you get clipless pedals eventually, it is still advisable not to pull up the pedal based on many studies showing you're actually less efficient when doing it and some develop issues from doing it.

Even the racers in Tour de France don't do it. It's only okay to pull up just a little to unload your feet from the pedal using only the hip flexor muscles but not to brute force pull the pedal up with the hamstrings simply because our legs are less efficient at flexion compare to extension.

When tour racers bob up and down on the steep stages, that means they're using their glutes and hamstrings on the downstroke of the pedal. If they also pulled up with the hamstring, they'd burn out their hamstring or even force it to cramp from overuse. Not a good thing. Nevertheless, clipless pedals would still deliver significant improvement despite not brute force pulling up the pedals simply by giving more efficient and secure interface between the feet and the pedals.

Some think they have gathered enough experience to go full speed on descents, then they crash, break some bones, rushed to ER and telling everyone that's normal and part of the hobby.

For $1000 you could buy a very nice USED racing bike. Try to find one relatively new. If you don’t know your proper frame size, go to your local bike shop and ask their opinion on the right size.

if there is a good sized bike club in the area, check their classified. Craigslist is another. Buy the best bike you can afford

1. Think about what is making you scared and if you can address it.

2. The biggest difference between the 1970's and the 1980's is that shifters became indexed (one click per gear), and then before Y2K they moved to the brake levers. Your bike is from a transitional period so it might have this, I haven't googled it to check. Maintenance parts for an old standard road bike are still available and you can keep it working fine. The biggest difference since Y2K has been integration of power meters and smart trainers so you can use software for your training plan and Zwift in the winter.

3. Someone probably already talked about this.

4. Hey! You have an excuse! Don't let us get in your way. For reference someone of an average height of 5-10 would likely be on a 56cm.

You know, the bike might not be as much to big for you as it feels right now. Lots of new people get into cycling and think their bike is too big because they can't put their feet on the ground while in the saddle and think that's what bikes are supposed to feel like. It's not. It's really not. What size is the bike? How tall are you? What's your inseam?

#2 and #4 could contribute to #1, at least partially, outside of just more experience handling a bike.

^^^

Craigslist is your friend. I've bought all my bikes of CL. Bought 10 year old bikes for $400 that sold new for $2500. At this point there is zero sense in spending good money on a brand new bike. Let someone else pay that depreciation.

Buy a good used bike(or two) and figure out what you like to do first. You may discover you prefer trails more and decide to go full suspension mountain bike. You might learn you like gravel bikes or you might want to try a triathlon/TT bike.

The only trick to Craigslist (and buying used in general) is that you may have to be patient until the right bike pops up. Don't buy the first bike you find (spoken from someone who has done that). Throw some very basic maintenance into your current bike and just check used bikes every couple days until you find the one you want.

OP, you didn't say, but what kind of "racing" are you interested in? I do triathlons and I use a road bike for it (now) but I'm shopping for a triathlon bike. What kind of racing you want to do will influence what kind of bike you want to get.I've now done both flat pedals and clipped in. Honestly, I think it's all personal preference, but for me, I'm comfortable with flat pedals. I think it's something everybody should try, and give both a fair chance, but for the majority of people out there I think clipping in is kind of like buying jerseys with sponsor names on it. Mostly for show. But you know, you do you.
I'm curious too. Bike fit is very individualized. I'm 5'4", but I have relatively short legs so I typically ride a 49 or 50cm bike. I've ridden a 54cm bike before, but that's on the very ragged edge of just being too big.

This "pull up" vs. "don't pull up" on the pedals discussion is somewhat of a simplification. In reality, there is plenty of pushing and pulling in different directions throughout the pedal cycle.

Different muscles are engaging throughout the pedal cycle to make the pedals go in circles, pushing forward on the pedals near the top, pushing down and forward in the first quadrant (0º-90º), pulling back in the next two quadrants (140º-270º), pulling up in the last quadrant (270º-360º).

Here is what the quadriceps and hamstrings are doing throughout the pedal cycle. I've marked the graphs with what the muscles are doing, either flexion (bending) or extension (straightening) a joint.


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d79d615dc0.png
Roughly, the hamstrings extend (straighten) the hip joint on the down stroke (pushing down on pedals), flex (bend) the knee around the bottom of the stroke (pulling back on pedals).

Also roughly, the quads extend (straighten) the knee on the down stroke (pushing forward on pedals), flex (bend) the hip on the up stroke (pulling up on pedals).

I think having a bike that's too large and hasn't seen maintenance in years has something to do with you not being comfortable at speed.

Your posting history indicates that you don't know much about much when it comes to cycling. Maybe you should save the aspersions for later.

Fantastic... Runner going to cycling... What a great transition. There certainly are more things in common then differences between the two. You are going to do just FINE!

I had an 80s FUJI that was way to big for me. But I was making a transition to ridding back roads and torn up asphalt which was a bit different from plain paved road biking. I was making changes to wider tires, chain wheel and freewheel experiments and many other things. Gravel bikes had not evolved as a specific species yet. I called it my Horse cause I had to jump on and off of it... Ha

Keep ridding. You will soon know just what kind of bike (Bikes) you really need... Happy Happy, Joy Joy...