14-28T vs 14-34T freewheel
 

Hi all,
l am looking into replacing my current freewheel 14-28T. There is an option to replace it with 14-34T, but I have researched and can't find any source that compares both.
Please what's the benefits of either 14-28T vs 14-34T freewheel over the other?

​​​​​​Thanks

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34 gets up hills easier
but has slightly bigger jumps between gears
And is probably a tiny bit heavier
and you’ll likely need a longer chain for it (by 3 links so might even get away with it depending on how long the current one is) but a new freewheel probably deserves having a new chain at the same time anyway

assuming both freewheels have the same number of cogs of course.

sorry what does this mean? Thanks

Both are 7 speed freewheel.

Often the same except a large jump to the 34 cog

​​​​​​https://cambriabike.com/products/shi...hoC-qwQAvD_BwE

Thanks. I will go for 34T then, as I tackle a few hills around my route. I guess I will need my gears readjusted.

I agree with all of the above.
Looks like it is on sale for $13 - get it and see how you like it.
You probably can't find a source comparing them because they are both fine solutions - the choice of one or the other is a personal preference.
The "14" in each means 14 teeth in the smallest (fastest) gear. The two parts will function identically there.
The "28" and the "34" refer to the number of teeth in the largest (easiest to pedal) gear. Using the 34 gear on the 14-34 will be noticably easier to pedal than any setting on the 14-28.

Generally when replacing the cog set (freewheel) one also replaces the chain, cut to size.

Some rear ders don't work with the larger in diameter cogs that a 34 is, compared to the 28T. Are you sure yours will? Andy

The 34 makes a good bail out gear if you unexpectedly come us against a really steep hill.

Don't ignore the information about RD's and question in post #7

If you know the model of your RD, you can find that information online. If it's a Shimano RD, then model and version number is usually stamped on the backside of the parallelogram. Might have to clean some gunk off of it to see it.

Max Low Sprocket is what Shimano calls that piece of info you need.

First ask yourself how often you use the 28T back there.

If all the time, then you may enjoy the 34T to climb over tree trunks and boulders. The downside is that you may not find the right for the others, like gear#4 minght be too easy yet gear #5 too hard to use.

If barely or never, then stick wth the 14-28T as these are all-condition sprokets.

For example, most of my cycling is urban commuting, I usually have 12-23T or 12-26T in the back.

As long as the derailleur supports the 34 you have several options. I just installed this one on a project with a new chain for $25 I like the wider gear spread compared to the tight group and then jump to the bailout ring.

Sunrace MFM300 - 7 Speed at Cambria

And everyone isn't you, your terrain, or your physical abilities. It also matters what your front chain wheels are. While 12T freewheels, not cassette, are out there, they are not common and most start at 14T due to the design limitations. OP is looking for a 7S freewheel.

Do we not say granny gear anymore? Is that offensive to grandmothers?

I have a 28t ring and a 36t cog. My bike celebrates grandparents day.

John

Depends. What pronoun does the granny use in front of "their" name?

https://www.payettebrewing.com/granny-gear

https://www.etsy.com/market/granny_gear

My bike has a 24 tooth chainring and a 34 tooth cog.
Get off my lawn. :crash:

No. OP is comparing two Shimano 7-speed freewheels. Comparing both versions, the first 6 cogs (14T, 16T, 18T, 20T, 22T, and 24T) are exactly the same; they only differ as to the 7th cog (28T vs. 34T).

SHIMANO TOURNEY TZ Multiple Freewheel 3x7-speed | SHIMANO BIKE-EU

So, by choosing the freewheel with the bigger 7th cog, OP will get an easier bailout gear but a slower shift thereto because of the larger gap. OP may also need a longer chain.

Their is a perfectly valid pronoun, it does not need to be in quotes.

14-16-18 are good gaps. 18-20 is better than 18-21, but not by a lot. 20-22-24 are a bit of overkill especially with a jump to 34.

I’ve feel a 14-16-18-21-24-28-34 is much better gapping.

For a mtb, the old “K” 13-34 with the 29t was pretty sweet.

John

You are totally right, but the market is not currently blessed with a wide selection of 7-speed freewheels.

Sunrace 13-34 and 14-34 freewheels have a 28t.

And the 13-34 “K” was a cassette not a freewheel. My brain freeze.

John

Woah you won’t need to look down to check if you’re in 1 or 2 on that will you! :D

Ooops I can’t believe I didn’t think of that potential gotcha :thumb:

Clegg2 - you shouldn’t need the lateral movement adjusting as the cogs are all the same width as the existing ones so same cable position and pull needed, but assuming your rear mech is ok with this 34 cog as per Andy’s warning, you could well need to adjust what’s called the B screw. It changes the distance between the pulley wheel cage and the cogs, might need to open that up a bit so the derraileur clears the bottom of that new bigger cog as it swings under it.

I agree with more even spacing on the cogs, versus a big jump to the low gear. Note that for "even spacing", that means increasing spacing between the gears. For example, 14 to 16 is 14% gain in speed, whereas 32 to 34 is only 6%. Thus, going from small cog to large cog, you typically may have "gaps" between cogs of, 2,2,3,3,4,6 as noted in one of the more even-spaced recommendations above.

Also, we don't know your experience, so we are assuming you actually mean a freewheel, and not a cassette.