Originally Posted by Ghostknife (Post 21969422)

Thanks to all, I have been looking through all the sports threads I can find trying to do some learning on them. I was looking for some Sun CR18s and they prove to be quite difficult to find. I’ll post some cleaned up pictures when I get it home. Excited to add this to the stable and ride it to work. Have a 10 mile round trip bike path route to work.

Originally Posted by clubman (Post 21969440)

If you rebuild bearings, lube or replace cables, use nice new pads, you can dial in the Sports without the Sun Rims. It can be done. Suns can come later. 10 km/miles is perfect.

Originally Posted by erileykc (Post 21969297)

Yup, tried rethreading the indicator pin multiple times on the way back and it seems to thread in but then when tugged on even slightly it it pops out as if only the last thread was seated. I didn't have a chance to disassemble the hub before I left but when I do return to the house the Tourist is my only transportation so I was hoping to go back with those parts that would fix it regardless of what it turns out to be. Thus my question as to whether anything other than the indicator pin or the axel key could account for this. I know lots of people here have much older hubs than this still working well but I also read that the Raleighs by the late 70s were having a lot of corners cut. Not sure if this issue is emblematic of that or just bad luck.

Originally Posted by Ghostknife (Post 21969689)

I wont be doing anything before I clean and inspect everything, just looking at all options before I pick up the bike (part of the fun). I do know that it needs tires so the plan is to order those today, just not too sure what tires I wanna go with. So far I have found that not much is in stock, assuming that is due to covid. I recall seeing a list of tires in the 590 sizing somewhere on here so I will have to try to find that again.

Originally Posted by BFisher (Post 21970326)

I have had Panaracer's Col de la Vie, cheapos from Kmart, and Schwalbe Delta Cruisers, and if I were looking for 590 size tires I'd try to get my hands on the Schwalbes. I really like them, and they will take higher pressure than the Panaracers.

Originally Posted by Ghostknife (Post 21970337)

I see the Schwalbe's come in the 590x37 and 590x42, anyone have insight on if the wider ones would fit, be better, slower, ect?

Originally Posted by BFisher (Post 21970351)

I have the 37 size on my wife's '64 Huffy (Raleigh) Sportsman and there doesn't seem to be much more room between the chain stays, although I've never tried to fit 42s.

Originally Posted by Unca_Sam (Post 21970735)

EA-3's only came in 1 3/8" thickness, right?

Originally Posted by BFisher (Post 21970755)

Sounds right?

On Schwalbe's website I only see 37-590 (26x1 3/8) for the regular Delta Cruiser.
SJS Cycles shows a 26x1 5/8 Marathon Plus.

I'd just stick with the 26x1 3/8 (37-590). Never felt like they were lacking. They ride fine.

Originally Posted by Unca_Sam (Post 21970735)

EA-3's only came in 1 3/8" thickness, right?

Originally Posted by BFisher (Post 21969499)

Amen to that. It seems like too much emphasis gets put on the need to "upgrade" to aluminum rims asap by the well-meaning bike nerd masses. For basic transport/utility a steel rim is totally fine, and the braking issue is not nearly as serious or urgent as is so often parroted...

Originally Posted by adventurepdx (Post 21971262)

Well, that all depends on where you live and how often you plan on riding the bike, "bike nerd" or not. I wouldn't want to ride all winter here in Portland with steel rims. Yeah, I tried. I like to stay out of the ER as much as possible.

That being said, the Missouri Compromise is to either rebuild the front wheel or find a pre-built 590/650A/26"x 1 3/8" front wheel. Better stopping power on the front is most useful so that's the way to go first. I've done that with a couple three speeds for awhile, before I got around to having the rear rebuilt with a new rim. And the pre-built front wheels are reasonably priced, though you'll need to spread the fork for the new wheel to fit.

Originally Posted by Ghostknife (Post 21971285)

I have a Fatboy for winter riding so won’t have to worry about that. I’m going to start with the new tires, just undecided on the delta cruisers (white wall looks nice) and the Marathon plus. As of writing this they are about the same price, at least by the shops that have them in stock. On Schwalbes site they are far cheaper but out of stock.

Originally Posted by erileykc (Post 21969297)

Yup, tried rethreading the indicator pin multiple times on the way back and it seems to thread in but then when tugged on even slightly it it pops out as if only the last thread was seated. I didn't have a chance to disassemble the hub before I left but when I do return to the house the Tourist is my only transportation so I was hoping to go back with those parts that would fix it regardless of what it turns out to be. Thus my question as to whether anything other than the indicator pin or the axel key could account for this. I know lots of people here have much older hubs than this still working well but I also read that the Raleighs by the late 70s were having a lot of corners cut. Not sure if this issue is emblematic of that or just bad luck.

Originally Posted by gster (Post 21973255)

I recall working on a hub a few years ago and running it without the indicator installed. The axle key came loose inside the hub and chewed itself up...
Lesson learned.

Originally Posted by thumpism (Post 21967300)

I wouldn't worry about used parts if that's all I could get. I might have the new pieces in a couple of Sturmey boxes.

Originally Posted by arex (Post 21972807)