Originally Posted by jrecoi
(Post 14932161)
Pictures with tape measure please.
http://i.imgur.com/qXJYOl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/7l31ol.jpg http://i.imgur.com/jsNfMl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/dHxIUl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Knc9Ql.jpg More (and full resolution) in the album- http://imgur.com/a/0Bgfz |
Originally Posted by graywolf
(Post 14925783)
That is what I have, I do not recommend it if you have a full chaincase on your bike. The type of stand that came with such bikes in the old days was one that was part of the rack. I saw someplace that was selling them recently but it was out of my price range. Also, if you try to mount that one on a 3-speed you need some extra thin nuts under the mount to hold the axle tight.
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This bike may be a diamond in the rough; anybody have any info on it? It has just turned up on our local Craigslist. Thanks!
[h=2]ANTIQUE COLSON BIKE - $100 (Pelzer SC)[/h]http://greenville.craigslist.org/bik/3403009586.html http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=283359 |
I have a 24T sprocket on mine. Sure, the gears are low, but we have some hills here, and I've even used the bike to tow a trailer full of stuff. Top gear is about 69" so I spin out easily, but so what? By that time, I'm going downhill anyway.
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Colsons are nice, chainguard is a classic. Would make a nice project. the parts alone are worth more than the asking price.....but it's not English, nor a 3speed so Blah! Not interested....but I'd buy it if I were local
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Yeah, that Colson is an old American bike. Looks like it would clean up to a nice patina. The wood rims are really cool but the 28" singletube tires are really expensive. It's cheaper to convert them to English 28" clinchers. Look over at www.thecabe.com for more like that.
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Originally Posted by sailorbenjamin
(Post 14942201)
It's cheaper to convert them to English 28" clinchers. Look over at www.thecabe.com for more like that.
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Originally Posted by Velognome
(Post 14941795)
Colsons are nice, chainguard is a classic. Would make a nice project. the parts alone are worth more than the asking price.....but it's not English, nor a 3speed so Blah! Not interested....but I'd buy it if I were local
Here's a better pic of the chainguard that I have saved in my own archive now: |
Originally Posted by sailorbenjamin
(Post 14942201)
Yeah, that Colson is an old American bike. Looks like it would clean up to a nice patina. The wood rims are really cool but the 28" singletube tires are really expensive. It's cheaper to convert them to English 28" clinchers. Look over at www.thecabe.com for more like that.
Tx |
The chainguard was a common design from say 1890's thru the late teens.
Rims look to be 28" steel clad wood which would put the bike squarely in the teens or 20's |
Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate
(Post 14942957)
So are you saying that those are wooden rims?
Tx |
Originally Posted by Velognome
(Post 14941795)
....but it's not English, nor a 3speed so Blah!
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71 Triumph
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http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=283692Whle making plans to build up this Rudge Whitworth using new Sturmey gears and brakes I noticed a very slight bend in the seat tube at the juction of the looped down tube. The frame and fork are sound and show no signs of abuse or a crash so I'm thinking this is just from fatigue. My thought is to run a steel seat pin all the way down the tube, forcing the seat tube straight and reinforcing the junction. Any thoughts or comments ?
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Hmm, you mean no signs of a crash, or no other signs of a crash? But crash or no, that's the weak spot on a frame of this design. I have a fillet brazed chromo Schwinn frame in my cellar with the same problem.
As for your proposed fix, I think the problem will be getting the post down there. With careful measuring, generous lubrication, and some patient pounding with a mallet, you might get it in the right spot. My fear is you'll get it stuck somewhere short of destination, and then where will you be. |
Originally Posted by clubman
(Post 14945412)
This. A Colson needs it's own thread. Stay the course boys! (and girls)
Please forgive my faux pas... BTW, I will be taking delivery of the bike about 5:30 this evening. **This is easily the best thread for the 3-speed hobby on BF. And it attracts the most knowledgeable people from what I have been able to determine |
Originally Posted by Velognome
(Post 14945338)
The chainguard was a common design from say 1890's thru the late teens.
Rims look to be 28" steel clad wood which would put the bike squarely in the teens or 20's Although some of the infantilesque purists will surely diss me for it, I plan to part the bike out in order to fund my 3-speed thing. Any further advice on maximizing my ebay net is certainly appreciated. :thumb: |
Great find!
Originally Posted by w1xq
(Post 14945541)
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Originally Posted by rhm
(Post 14946271)
Hmm, you mean no signs of a crash, or no other signs of a crash? But crash or no, that's the weak spot on a frame of this design. I have a fillet brazed chromo Schwinn frame in my cellar with the same problem.
As for your proposed fix, I think the problem will be getting the post down there. With careful measuring, generous lubrication, and some patient pounding with a mallet, you might get it in the right spot. My fear is you'll get it stuck somewhere short of destination, and then where will you be. The plan for accurate placement of said seatpost is to invert the post so "TGF", taper goes first. Then a push rod marked to the correct depth will run the seatpost turned internal lug to it's final resting place. Lubrication should aid the insertion as well as a plan to fasten the frame via the lower down tube to the bench while the seattube is pulled backwards. Nothing ventured nothing gained. Plus, I don't think weight was ever a consideration in the design or construction of the beast, so another 16oz would just be ballast anyway. |
Right.
If you have a trashed frame around, you might consider taking the top tube from that, strip the paint off, sand it real smooth, and see how far down into the bent seat tube it goes. Diameter should be correct. Use plenty of lubrication, of course. This has the advantage that you can pull it out again (maybe). |
More work :(....I've got a few really heavy seatposts that are a snug fit, plus they come tappered!
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New Additions to the Family
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New additions to the family - all procured in the last 6-8 months.
Front to back with brief notes... AMF Hercules - built by Raleigh in Nottingham [needs more work but very sound; paid $35] BSA - built by Raleigh in Nottingham [This sweet beauty needs a chainguard... was amazed at how nice she is beneath the Colorado patina! Paid $30] Schwinn Breeze - built in Chicago [probably will part her out; removed a nice SA AW which more than justified $25 purchase price] Columbia Sports III - built in Massachusetts [probably will part her out; has a nice SA AW which more than justifies $20 purchase price] FWIW, this thread and the BBTE3S [Bring Back the English 3-Speed] thread quickly got me up to speed on these bikes so that I could make informed buying decisions and maximize this most excellent of pursuits. Thanks to all who have contributed and please see the next post I make with a couple of more shots of these bikes and brief notes that I hope are useful to people getting involved with these great lightweight bicycles. :thumb: http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=283751 |
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1. AMF Hercules headbadge
2. AMF Hercules chainguard 3. Schwinn & Columbia headbadges 4. Rampar [Raleigh] saddle that was to the best of my knowledge original equipment on the AMF Hercules |
Congratulations, w1xq, and welcome.
Velognome, if you believe the bend to be caused by fatigue, that probably means the frame is not safe. But I'll bet it was a crash or other abuse and that it is not fatigued. |
Congratulations, PalmettoUpstate.
If I remember right, Rampar was a name that Raleigh started using in the mid or late 70's. More likely that it was a replacement saddle purchased at a Raleigh bike shop. |
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