Originally Posted by sykerocker (Post 14743851)

Sometimes I think I go too far just to not throw away a three speed. The latest to pass thru the shop is a '73 Phillips ladies' frame, found sitting in a leaky shed for 30 years with a bunch of cheap American junk.

Before:-----




After (lots of oxalic acid soaking):



http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...ipsLadies3.jpg

Originally Posted by Andrew T (Post 14746720)

Currently restoring a Raleigh Sports and was wondering if anyone had any closer shots / more knowledge of these lights on the fork legs that Veloria originally posted???


http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=273577

Originally Posted by Andrew T (Post 14746720)

Currently restoring a Raleigh Sports and was wondering if anyone had any closer shots / more knowledge of these lights on the fork legs that Veloria originally posted???


http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=273577

Originally Posted by Jawihan (Post 14749070)

RHM, Is there any information available for converting these old lights to leds?

Originally Posted by rhm (Post 12588321)

Here's a little more detail on the headlight...Attachment 200388

I use copper because it's soft enough to cut with a hacksaw (or coping saw or saber saw) and shape with a hand file, you can solder it, and it conducts heat well. Bonus: it won't rust.

I cut and flattened out a piece of copper pipe into a square from which I cut a disk the same size as the original parabolic reflector from the headlight; then I cut a hole in the middle of that and soldered a copper cap --the one made for 3/4" copper pipe-- into that hole. This makes a hat-shaped copper thing. If you file the corners of the black plastic lens holder, you can make it fit all the way into that cap. Drill a hole in the back of the cap for the wires. The LED+lens holder+lens are held to the copper cap with a drop of heat conductive compound. The copper piece, complete with the LED, is held in place in the bezel with four little W-shaped steel springs (original). I put extra solder on the back of the copper disk because I thought the steel springs would need to press against something; this proved unnecessary.

The bridge rectifier is soldered together from four schottky diodes in the configuration shown here. Four diodes are arranged as two pairs, their polarity reversed. Their leads at one end of each pair are formed into hook shapes and soldered together. Then the positive lead from each pair are attached to the positive wire; similarly the negative leads are attached to the negative wire. Some heat shrink tubing is employed to insulate the wires. The four diodes can be fit into a larger piece of heat shrink tubing.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=200390

The head and tail light LED's are wired in series; so the positive wire goes to the headlight, the negative wire goes to the taillight, and a third wire connects the negative on the headlight LED to the positive on the tail light LED.

Originally Posted by michael k (Post 14750662)

Where does one find replacement brake pads for rod brakes?Probably a silly question but having troubles.

Also,Do they make replacement rims for 28" wheels? The rear is in badly need of replacement.

Originally Posted by michael k (Post 14750662)

Where does one find replacement brake pads for rod brakes?Probably a silly question but having troubles.

Originally Posted by michael k (Post 14750662)

Where does one find replacement brake pads for rod brakes?Probably a silly question but having troubles.

Also,Do they make replacement rims for 28" wheels? The rear is in badly need of replacement.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/c...29_1327291.jpg

Originally Posted by _dylan (Post 14724033)

By the way, I know this should be posted in the for sale section, but if anyone is looking to sell their 3-speed (especially a matching mens/womens set) PM me! I want so bad, but I just haven't had any luck in my searches--patience is a virtue, but I'm not the kind of guy to sit around and wait without at least trying. So if you're trying to sell, let me know!! Thanks!

Originally Posted by rhm (Post 14749391)

You don't actually need the bridge rectifier, as long as you have two LED's (one front, one back; or two front; doesn't matter) with polarity reversed. Run a wire from one hub terminal to the + terminal of one LED and the - terminal of the other; run the second wire from the other hub terminal to the other LED terminals. If you do this, the LED's will flash alternately, which is annoying at low speeds. Over 12 mph or so you don't notice it much.

Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 14753585)

After years of fooling with different methods of securing wires, I came to settle on zip ties. They handle different conditions well enough, stay tight once locked down, and you can cut them and replace freely if you need to do more work. Lace and leather strips looked nice, but they didn't like moisture or temperature changes much. It was also hard to keep them tight and secure. White plastic was what the store had, though I suppose if I could get green ones that matched the paint I'd go that route.

Originally Posted by jrecoi (Post 14751447)

As far as rims go, in Colombia I've found some 28 x 1 1/2 Raleigh-pattern (Westrick) aluminium rims, as well as Aluminium Westwood-pattern rims. Pretty light too, some 500g/rim, although the spoke holes are unreenforced so rim washers are necessary for these.

Pardon the crappy cellphone quality.

Originally Posted by PalmettoUpstate (Post 14751617)

Hey Michael, I've gotta ask...

What kind of saddle is that?


Tx

Originally Posted by JohnDThompson (Post 14750877)

Yellow Jersey:

Originally Posted by brianinc-ville (Post 14755160)

jrecoi, I remember that you mentioned these Colombian aluminum rims before -- you don't have a link to a seller, do you?

Thanks!

(P.S.: Nice Willys!)

Originally Posted by brianinc-ville (Post 14755160)

jrecoi, I remember that you mentioned these Colombian aluminum rims before -- you don't have a link to a seller, do you?

Thanks!

(P.S.: Nice Willys!)

Originally Posted by jrecoi (Post 14756874)

Ciclo Torres makes the Westrick rims, but their website 404ed some six months ago. I got their phone number by extensive googling, and trying some of the variations from the results (the most commonly listed phone number went to an old warehouse that they don't own anymore, the online savvy of many Colombian businesses is quite crude).

I called them today, and they're willing to sell straight from the factory; they have 28 x 1 1/2 rims immediately available, and they know of 26 x 1 1/2 and 26 x 1 3/8, but they don't make them at the moment from lack of local demand (It was hard enough to get tires for 26 x 1 3/8 in the largest city in the country). From my location, they're pretty close, about an hour's bus ride. As far as shipping rims to the US, its a grey market affair, although I travel every once in a while back to the US.

Thanks! The Willys is from the same year as my Raleigh Sports.

Originally Posted by michael k (Post 14756167)

Its from RBR. http://www.hiwheel.com/parts/index.htm

Originally Posted by wahoonc (Post 14741166)

Okay I braved the wicked weather (rain and sun alternating :P) and hit the shop in between lattes and emails. ;)

Here are a couple of quick pictures via cellphone, the regular camera battery is dead and I can't find the charger base...again.

I stand corrected, there are tab slots in both sides of the stays, so the tabbed bolt is probably correct. However based on previous experience I suspect they are pretty weak and get wrung off on a regular basis. All of my Sports/Superbes have the one with the tab and a Raleigh cap bolt, those are the Raleigh 26tpi. I have had my hands on 4+ DL-1 bikes of varying vintage and every one has had a regular bolt on them... go figure.

Here are the pictures, now I have to go find a damned Raleigh seat post bolt...NOT!

Aaron :)

http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/50...425x425Q85.jpg http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/52...425x425Q85.jpg