I would just replace the chain. For under $20 you get a fresh clean chain that will run quiet and trouble free for years. Even a small amount of chain stretch will eat away at your cogs. If you do reuse it, check it with a proper chain stretch tool. My Robin Hood had a good looking non-stretched chain but it was stiff and sticky and I couldn't seem to get it clean. The new chain worked beautifully.

I inherited this James 3 speed and am trying to decide what to do with it. It's chrome, but I don't suppose it has much collector value?

http://s89693915.onlinehome.us/img/misc/the-james.jpg

It might have some collectability, I don't believe there were too many chrome 3 speeds in the past.

Nothing wrong with that chain except for a missing master link & dirt.
Get a small brush and clean that thing. Clean it like you clean your teeth, dunk it wipe it and see if you got it all. then doit again if needed. I don't see any rust.

Spend $2 on a master link. It will last you another 45-50 yrs.

That is very unique, I would love to have that.

I have a pair of chrome fenders & chain cover off a Hercules that would really give it the look.

The 3-speed English market is narrow. Some parts of the country are better than others.

I think not. Collectible 3 speeds have to be old, original condition and a desireable marque. Even then they show up cheap all the time. A modded James wouldn't make you much, even with chrome.

So, that James is neither old, or originally a 3 speed? It does have a COOL factor going for it. :thumb:

I couldn't find enough to make heads nor tails of it, but if this is the same company, the James has quite a pedigree.
https://oldbike.wordpress.com/1914-j...adies-bicycle/

That chrome James in the picture tiger style posted is crying out "Raleigh product"

I like that James. It could be left stripped down, stripped down with drop bars, or maybe full dressed roadster style with chrome fenders and chainguard. It may not be worth a lot of money, but it has plenty of charm.

Looks like a Brimingham bike even with the rear mudguard stays. They weren't absorbed by Raleigh and seemed to have mostly went away after Francis Barnett got them in 57.

You know I think most all 3 speed genus are down with cool. Those early century James are VCC collectible. But this one has a centrepull brake, replaced cockpit, no accessories, crap seat and post etc. Nice crank, maybe williams and we should look for a date code on the back.The OP wanted an evaluation of sorts. Honest, I'd walk away from a $25 price tag...many more fish in the sea.

Oh yeah,OP inherited. So make it cool again, just don;t do it for money :thumb:

The serial number is consistent with a mid 1960s Raleigh. I was just curious if it might be a worthy restoration project for someone. Otherwise I’ll just probably put it back on the mean streets.

As I've mentioned already, I think it's way cool, and if you rolled up on me with it for sale, depending on price, I'd most likely be riding it home. :thumb:

I gave away the 1958 Robin Hood Sports step thru frame to a friend. I guess I'm very surprised what he did with it.

Attachment 601617

The days have gone down in the west, behind the hills into shadow

FWIW, Raleigh did make chrome three speed frames. They were usually given to dealers as rewards and demos and so are rather rare.

If that is a Williams crank and not a copy, its worth $50 all by its lonesome.

It's always a long winter in Minn.

This is like some kind of weird taxidermy...like a moose head in a bar wearing sunglasses, a scarf and mardi gras beads.

A few days back I asked for ways to raise the handle bars on my Raleigh Sports bike. One of the solutions was to install a modern stem that would require shimming the bars because there is a 1/16" difference in the bars and clamp diameter. I have searched vendors and have not yet found a shim that size. If that is the case what should I use for "shim material"? Thanks!

The diameter difference is 1/16" so the shim should be half that at 1/32" (.031), but anywhere close to that would be fine. A range between say .025 and .035. I like to use a softer material like brass or aluminum. For my Rudge with the long stem, I used a piece of lead chimney flashing. I kept hammering it thinner and trimming off the edges until it fit.

Others might disagree but you can cut a shim yourself from an aluminum beer or soda can.

+1 - more than one vehicle in my life has been repaired with the beer can shim.....

I like it! I get to put a little bit of myself in it. I have plenty of hammers and snips as well as flashing and cans. Thanks again for your knowledge and support!

Just to be clear here, the correct term is 'Bavarian Shim Stock'.

Flashing is usually too thick. If you're using an alloy stem, the best solution is a shim that wraps around the bars once or slightly less than so as to not create a stress riser. Brass shim stock comes in variable thicknesses if a beer can doesn't work.

The problem with using beer can aluminum or lead is that they are very malleable, and that property doesn't change once it's installed. Under cyclic pressure it will continue to get thinner and thinner. Brass is far less malleable, and is usually fine. Steel shim would be best as a set-and-forget solution.

This is great! Thanks to all. I will need to lengthen my cables as Big Chief suggested. My one original which is on the shifter is close now. Are there any cable housings that are preferred or, especially some I should avoid.

I used lead chimney flashing. I hammered it to the desired thickness and trimmed the edges to the clamp width. I cut the length so there was a gap over the gap in the clamp. It conforms easily to inside diameter of the clamp and holds the bars firmly. Lead flashing will work well for this application. It's not going to compress and it's supported on both sides. It's not so soft that it will ooze out the sides. There's nowhere for it to go. Works fine. No reason not to use it if you have material handy. Brass shim stock or aluminum would be fine also. I would pick those over unplated steel only because of rust, but since we're only talking about a .030 shim inside of a clamp, that probably wouldn't actually matter.

My neighbor gave me a 1964 Phillips Ladies' roadster today. Has what appears to be a functioning S-A twist grip shifter. Probably hasn't been ridden in 35 years. Original EA3 front tire even. She's going to look for the fork key, it wasn't with it.

Unfortunately it's covered in red spray paint, probably from her kids' attempt to make it cooler and faster. Going to try to strip that off without damaging the factory black enamel. But the Brooks saddle is burnt toast, and the tires probably too. Trying to decide whether it's worth it to spiff it up a bit and sell, or not. It's way too tiny for me, and I don't often ride in a kilt.