Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
(Post 14914316)
I host my own images and others use various image hosting sites.
You can also attach an image and then click it to get the full size version in your post preview, copy and paste that url as an image and your images will get upsized although the attached image thumbnail will still show. |
Originally Posted by akcapbikeforums
(Post 14915046)
Right... host the pics elsewhere (flickr, or imageshack.us, etc.) and when composing your post, you simply insert the image using HTML:
[img]here you put the link to the picture from the site where you host it[/img] |
Picked up a 1965 Foremost off CL a few weeks ago. Plan on doing some cleaning in a few days. It has the J C Penny stickers on the frame. It appears to be Raleigh built. Has the 3 speed twist shifter.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/w1xq/81...in/photostream |
Originally Posted by w1xq
(Post 14917726)
Picked up a 1965 Foremost off CL a few weeks ago. Plan on doing some cleaning in a few days. It has the J C Penny stickers on the frame. It appears to be Raleigh built. Has the 3 speed twist shifter.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/w1xq/81...in/photostream |
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Originally Posted by Juggler2
(Post 14910121)
Yes! Please do, I'd really like to see how it's coming along. I remember you posting your search for the chaincase, and eventually finding one. I've been mulling over doing the same to my Sports, but I probably won't. If I ever got my hands on a heavy weight roadster though...
On mine the rear stand is interfering with the chaincase and, being ill for awhile, I did not get that sorted out. I did get one of those Bernzomatic propane welding torches, and I keep thinking of brazing on a permanent mount for the chaincase. |
Originally Posted by w1xq
(Post 14917751)
I give up, will stick with thumbnails.
I think you need to choose the size of picture you want then right click on it and choose "copy image url" then paste that code. Aaron :) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7261/8...63f72569_c.jpg |
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That is gorgeous!
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Originally Posted by akcapbikeforums
(Post 14918111)
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Originally Posted by wahoonc
(Post 14917892)
Here you go...
I think you need to choose the size of picture you want then right click on it and choose "copy image url" then paste that code. Aaron :) http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7261/8...63f72569_c.jpg |
Originally Posted by graywolf
(Post 14917857)
Well they sell chaincases for the roadsters too.
On mine the rear stand is interfering with the chaincase and, being ill for awhile, I did not get that sorted out. I did get one of those Bernzomatic propane welding torches, and I keep thinking of brazing on a permanent mount for the chaincase. |
Originally Posted by graywolf
(Post 14917857)
Well they sell chaincases for the roadsters too.
On mine the rear stand is interfering with the chaincase and, being ill for awhile, I did not get that sorted out. I did get one of those Bernzomatic propane welding torches, and I keep thinking of brazing on a permanent mount for the chaincase. http://www.bikeworldusa.com/product_...roducts_id/101 |
this seller is just over in Brooklyn and every few months turns up a gem like this one (i.e. his & hers nos late 50s superbes)
I have been meaning to drop a them line to see about coming by for an awestruck look.
Originally Posted by akcapbikeforums
(Post 14918111)
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Originally Posted by akcapbikeforums
(Post 14918111)
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Originally Posted by Juggler2
(Post 14922785)
This might be of interest.
http://www.bikeworldusa.com/product_...roducts_id/101 |
Took my 'new' Raleigh Sports in to the office this week. It's a 1972 Standard (S22): no pump pegs, Endrick rims, no headlight mount... and after studying the sticker at the bottom of the seat tube (which is covered mostly by a bike shop decal from Sudgen & Lynch of Menlo Park)... the bike was definitely made in Malaysia.
I took it for a maiden voyage Wednesday, and it's super comfortable and smooth -- it's going to be the perfect downtown bike. I have a 20 mile drive to the office, so it will strictly serve for lunchtime rides and getting mileage in to prep for next spring's GAP/C&O trip. It's now shifting through all three gears well -- though downshifts seem to require more effort. This is one of those bikes that's suffered more dis-use than overuse, so now that I've lubed the hub well, it probably just needs some exercise. The chrome cleaned up super well, but the front Endrick rim seems to have suffered disproportionately -- I'd like to replace that so if anyone has a fairly nice Endrick wheel sitting around, let me know. Norfolk is almost completely flat, but we do get wind --3rd gear is just too high to be useful. I'm thinking of changing out the rear cog to either 22T or 24T. Any thoughts or recommendations on that would be appreciated. And I need to come up with a good name for her. Here she is at my desk up on the 15th floor of the new Wells Fargo Center (to the right you can see the tracks of our new light rail, The Tide): https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...49398552_n.jpg |
Very nice akcapbikeforums! Cool picture. I put a 22t cog on my Sports and I really like it. I think any larger than 22 would make 3rd too low. I think 22 is a very good choice if you have high winds or hills but still want a decent 3rd gear.
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Originally Posted by akcapbikeforums
(Post 14930924)
Took my new Raleigh Sports in to the office this week. It's a 1972 Standard (S22): no pump pegs, no headlight mount... and after studying the sticker at the bottom of the seat tube (which is covered mostly by a bike shop decal from Sudgen & Lynch of Menlo Park)... the bike was definitely made in Malaysia.
I took it for a maiden voyage Wednesday, and it's super comfortable and smooth -- it's going to be the perfect downtown bike. I have a 20 mile drive to the office, so it will strictly serve for lunchtime rides and getting mileage in to prep for next spring's GAP/C&O trip. |
Originally Posted by flammenwurfer
(Post 14931047)
Very nice akcapbikeforums! Cool picture. I put a 22t cog on my Sports and I really like it. I think any larger than 22 would make 3rd too low. I think 22 is a very good choice if you have high winds or hills but still want a decent 3rd gear.
In any case, it makes 3rd gear fairly useless for a bike that weighs 35-45 pounds and increasing the size of the rear cog improves the low gear and makes the 3rd gear more usable... I like to set up my 3 speeds with the high gear being my primary cruising gear and then I have two steps down for wind, hills, and bigger hills. |
Originally Posted by flammenwurfer
(Post 14931047)
Very nice akcapbikeforums! Cool picture. I put a 22t cog on my Sports and I really like it. I think any larger than 22 would make 3rd too low. I think 22 is a very good choice if you have high winds or hills but still want a decent 3rd gear.
Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver
(Post 14931420)
In any case, it makes 3rd gear fairly useless for a bike that weighs 35-45 pounds and increasing the size of the rear cog improves the low gear and makes the 3rd gear more usable... I like to set up my 3 speeds with the high gear being my primary cruising gear and then I have two steps down for wind, hills, and bigger hills.
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Originally Posted by akcapbikeforums
(Post 14931804)
Thanks flammenwurfer!
So 65er, are you a fan more of the 24T over the 22T? Same trip, though we are doing ours ad hoc! My winter bike has a 22 tooth cog mated to a 42 tooth chain ring to give it a low of 35 gear inches. |
In glass table flat Miami when I got my Raleigh, 48x22 worked well. Starting off on 2nd (56"), and then switching to 3rd (75") worked well most of the time, and when the headwinds and ocassional overpass got too strong, 1st (42") did the trick.
Now that it's in Colombia, the gearing became rather inadequate for both the hills and the unpaved roads. 2nd (56") works well on level unpaved roads, with 3rd (75") doing well on any downhills and level paved roads. 1st (42") works with short unpaved uphills, and extended paved uphills, but unpaved uphills are too much. To deal with this, I have three options: One, I change out for a larger rear sprocket, a 23t to get 72"-54"-40" gearing with the original 48 tooth crank. The issue this has is the full chaincase, I'm not sure how large a rear cog it can handle, but from what I've heard 23-24 teeth is the upper limit. I'll also have to play a bit with chain length, might have to get a half link as well. Two, I swap the crank for a 46t to get similar gearing with the same 22t sprocket. More expensive, but a simple change. Three, swap the AW guts for S5 or FW guts, and their associated odds and ends. An expensive and rather invasive change. I'll do this only if measures One and Two don't do the trick. |
Sorry, just saw this.
Originally Posted by jrecoi
(Post 14875170)
Question: can you provide the dimensions for that rear rack? They're awfully hard to find, and while I haven't looked too deeply into the local offerings, I might just have to build one on my own.
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Originally Posted by IthaDan
(Post 14932074)
Sorry, just saw this.
What would be the best way to do this? Pictures with a tape measure? Pictures against a backdrop of 1/4" graph paper? |
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