Originally Posted by bampilot06
(Post 22495495)
carbon seat post just sounds like a bad idea.
my madone has a carbon mast. Not the samething. |
Originally Posted by big john
(Post 22495625)
Seems like it would work if the rotor is the same diameter and position.
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Originally Posted by Mojo31
(Post 22495462)
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Originally Posted by LAJ
(Post 22495618)
I've got carbon posts and carbon bars. None of them were purchased without provenance.
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Originally Posted by bampilot06
(Post 22495440)
When carbon bars break do you get any kind of warning? A high pitch cracking noise? increase flex? Is it usually during sprints or going down hill or running into the back of a car? Asking for a friend.
:innocent: :roflmao2: |
Originally Posted by jwr0201
(Post 22495634)
Man - now I know why I live in Florida!
Originally Posted by rjones28
(Post 22495635)
|
Cinque.
Wordle 320 5/6 ⬛🟨⬛🟨⬛ 🟨🟩⬛⬛⬛ ⬛🟩⬛🟩🟩 🟩🟩⬛🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 |
Originally Posted by rjones28
(Post 22495615)
I used standard Jagwire 5mm brake housing. I don't think that caliper has any special needs.
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Originally Posted by genejockey
(Post 22495644)
The Canyon has a carbon post. Given it's rated for heavier than I am, I don't worry too much about it.
Originally Posted by big john
(Post 22495625)
Seems like it would work if the rotor is the same diameter and position.
|
Wordle 320 3/6
⬛🟩⬛⬛⬛ ⬛🟩🟨⬛🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 on a roll the last couple of days |
I choose to blame all of you.
Wordle 320 X/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜🟩 ⬜⬜⬜🟩🟩 ⬜⬜⬜🟩🟩 ⬜⬜⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 🟨🟩⬜🟩🟩 |
This weekend’s “race”
https://www.strava.com/routes/2954800741709751144 This is only about 20 miles of dirt that’s pretty well groomed. All of the major climbs are dirt which add some challenge. One of them last year I spun out and had to get off and walk, hopefully wider tires and better gearing will fix that. Believe it hits ~18% in a few places. Last year was 28s with 36/30 as lowest gear and this year will be 32s with 31/34. pretty excited and have no real expectations, just do it for fun. |
Originally Posted by gnome
(Post 22495567)
console yourself that the e-type will be much, much higher maintenance than your wife.
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Originally Posted by indyfabz
(Post 22495787)
I choose to blame all of you.
Wordle 320 X/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜🟩 ⬜⬜⬜🟩🟩 ⬜⬜⬜🟩🟩 ⬜⬜⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 🟨🟩⬜🟩🟩 Wordle 320 X/6 ⬜⬜🟨⬜🟩 ⬜⬜⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 |
Originally Posted by phrantic09
(Post 22495817)
This weekend’s “race”
https://www.strava.com/routes/2954800741709751144 This is only about 20 miles of dirt that’s pretty well groomed. All of the major climbs are dirt which add some challenge. One of them last year I spun out and had to get off and walk, hopefully wider tires and better gearing will fix that. Believe it hits ~18% in a few places. Last year was 28s with 36/30 as lowest gear and this year will be 32s with 31/34. pretty excited and have no real expectations, just do it for fun. |
Originally Posted by LAJ
(Post 22495823)
Whew. Punchy. Have fun!
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Originally Posted by genejockey
(Post 22495649)
Position should be the same, but fractions of millimeters count here. If you want to test them, I'd go ahead and center the calipers on them, using the business card trick, and then see if you still get rub.
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Time to ride. Today will explore the Blue Ridge Parkway South of Asheville.
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Originally Posted by bampilot06
(Post 22495451)
I’ve been talking to seattle forrest, he has a C3 with ardennes and hasn’t ever had brake rub problems. So now I wonder if it’s the cheaper carbon my bike is made of, or the super teams, though they seem bullet proof not sure what that says about flex’s.
if I put my bontrager wheel on the cervelo to test out the wheel theory, would it matter that the rotor on the bontrager wheel is sram? I would not touch the brake. I could tell in a matter of seconds whether or not the rub was there. If there's no rub in the stand but there's rub on the road, that obviously means that there's a change in relative position between the rotor and pads. The rotor is bolted to a solid, machined hub. The hub is being held in place by a ~1/2" thick axle. The axle is fastened in to the dropouts and there's only a couple inches of carbon fork between the axle and caliper - there's virtually no room for movement if everything is secured properly. If things aren't secured properly and if things aren't quite square and true, you get problems like you're getting. Make sure your rotor is true and properly tightened. Make sure your calipers are centered and aligned. Make sure you're consistently tightening the thru-axel. If you can't consistently tighten the TA because if its design, get a Robert axle and use a torque wrench. Done and done. |
Wordle 320 3/6
⬜⬜🟨⬜🟨 ⬜🟨🟨🟨🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 |
Originally Posted by bampilot06
(Post 22495451)
have not had that happen yet. I had the rear wheel not what to open once in Dallas. That was a head scratcher.
I’ve been talking to seattle forrest, he has a C3 with ardennes and hasn’t ever had brake rub problems. So now I wonder if it’s the cheaper carbon my bike is made of, or the super teams, though they seem bullet proof not sure what that says about flex’s. if I put my bontrager wheel on the cervelo to test out the wheel theory, would it matter that the rotor on the bontrager wheel is sram? I would not touch the brake. I could tell in a matter of seconds whether or not the rub was there.
Originally Posted by WhyFi
(Post 22495865)
If a closet door is sticking, you don't try a different door - you make sure that the hinges are tight, that the frame is plumb and that the door is square. Everything else is a shot in the dark and a waste of time when the basics haven't yet been addressed, IMO.
If there's no rub in the stand but there's rub on the road, that obviously means that there's a change in relative position between the rotor and pads. The rotor is bolted to a solid, machined hub. The hub is being held in place by a ~1/2" thick axle. The axle is fastened in to the dropouts and there's only a couple inches of carbon fork between the axle and caliper - there's virtually no room for movement if everything is secured properly. If things aren't secured properly and if things aren't quite square and true, you get problems like you're getting. Make sure your rotor is true and properly tightened. Make sure your calipers are centered and aligned. Make sure you're consistently tightening the thru-axel. If you can't consistently tighten the TA because if its design, get a Robert axle and use a torque wrench. Done and done. Have you taken a plastic tire lever and pressed your pistons in and then made sure they're retracting? |
Originally Posted by MoAlpha
(Post 22495913)
This. There should be enough clearance in the caliper and enough range in the positioning to fix anything but bad rotor runout.
Have you taken a plastic tire lever and pressed your pistons in and then made sure they're retracting? I have. The rotor has a slight bent in it. However, spinning in the bike stand with a white sheet of paper behind it there is plenty of clearance and it doesn’t rub, when I ride it sitting down 75 percent of the time it doesn’t rub. When I stand it’s a constant rub. The skewer is as tight as I can make it. sounding like a new axle and new rotor. I’m just super skeptical that’s going to fix the problem. And furthermore how the hell do my rotors keep getting bent? |
Originally Posted by datlas
(Post 22495857)
Time to ride. Today will explore the Blue Ridge Parkway South of Asheville.
keep coming east. I’m on 6 hours by car. |
Originally Posted by bampilot06
(Post 22495921)
I have. The rotor has a slight bent in it. However, spinning in the bike stand with a white sheet of paper behind it there is plenty of clearance and it doesn’t rub, when I ride it sitting down 75 percent of the time it doesn’t rub. When I stand it’s a constant rub. The skewer is as tight as I can make it.
sounding like a new axle and new rotor. I’m just super skeptical that’s going to fix the problem. And furthermore how the hell do my rotors keep getting bent? If the rotor is a Shimano IceTech, which is an steel and aluminum sandwich, it's not going to take much at all. If it's a solid steel rotor, you may need to bend it a little beyond true so that it springs back in to a more true position. Jump to the 3min mark or so, if you're impatient - |
Originally Posted by rjones28
(Post 22495650)
Do I spy a 5 speed?
I just enjoy their beauty. I've never had the chance to drive, or even sit in, one. |
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