Bike Forums

Bike Forums (https://www.bikeforums.net/forum.php)
-   Classic & Vintage (https://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php?f=181)
-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

adventurepdx 06-25-15 02:39 PM


Originally Posted by stm25rs (Post 17926666)
I'll see if he can do better than $100, but it does have new tires, brakes, brake lines, and a new seat, which makes me think it's worth at least $50, right?

Maybe?

I know how tough it is to hold out when you want something bad now, but...I'd say hold out. Because Murphy's Law dictates that as soon as you buy that bike for probably a bit too much, a nice British three speed will come on CL for a good price. Then you'll want to buy that, but feel guilty because you already bought the Huffy, so you won't buy the British bike. Or then you'll try to sell the Huffy to justify buying the British three speed, but then that Huffy won't sell...


Originally Posted by stm25rs (Post 17926666)
Never heard the term BBL before, but that's exactly what I'm looking for.

That's because I just made it up! :)

Minksy 06-25-15 02:40 PM

Hello All,

I am wondering if anyone can recommend a suitable front hub replacement for my Rudge Whitworth "deluxe"
The original front dyno hub is frozen and the associated head lamp is long gone. I'll keep this and maybe try to overhaul it, but in the mean time... I'd like to find a front hub that suits this old bike and can pair with Sun CR 18 rims / Sturmey Archer AW in the back.

Any suggestions/experience would be much appreciated

dweenk 06-25-15 04:54 PM


Originally Posted by noglider (Post 17926120)
I was a bike mechanic when the Shimano hub was in production. My hazy memory says yes, it was more likely to break, but that doesn't mean it will break on you. It might work just fine. But when it breaks, it is done.

I agree with noglider. I have had 2 bikes ith Shimano 3.3.3 hubs that worked well, and I donated them to a shelter. I had another that was useless (may have been prior lack of oil). But parts, forget it.

BigChief 06-25-15 05:02 PM


Originally Posted by forestine (Post 17926506)
That tab seems fine but I checked again and the band around the middle of the fender (with the tab that connects to the brake assembly) seems very loose, like the whole fender wiggles inside the band. I guess I'll have to take the whole thing off and bend it, or maybe add a shim. That explains why all the bolts are tight but it's still wiggling. Tried to get a photo of what I mean, but it's not really working. (And they weren't sideways when I uploaded them. Stupid thing.)

You can also crimp the ends of that bracket tighter onto the fender with pliers. Might help. Sometimes the fender comes a little too close to the chainguard and be put right with a little (custom body work)

arex 06-25-15 07:14 PM


Originally Posted by Minksy (Post 17926715)
Hello All,

I am wondering if anyone can recommend a suitable front hub replacement for my Rudge Whitworth "deluxe"
The original front dyno hub is frozen and the associated head lamp is long gone. I'll keep this and maybe try to overhaul it, but in the mean time... I'd like to find a front hub that suits this old bike and can pair with Sun CR 18 rims / Sturmey Archer AW in the back.

Any suggestions/experience would be much appreciated

I'm using an old Maillard track hub that has the same axle size, so I didn't have to file the dropouts. However, I did have to spread the fork to accommodate the slightly wider hub.

gna 06-25-15 08:27 PM


Originally Posted by stm25rs (Post 17925997)
Can anybody explain what is so bad about the Shimano hub?

Only thing I can really find is that it's not as easily to rebuild as a SA, and therefore not as desirable. Is it more likely to break in the first place?

According to St. Sheldon, yes, they did break more easily (scroll down to the "Older Shimano Hubs" section). There are many of these hubs still in use, though, so it could be just fine.

I've had three problems trying to fix them:

1. Documentation is sparse
2. Parts aren't available
3. Shimano made changes, so even with a donor you may not be able to fix one.

Bike like that are not as nice as Raleigh-built Huffys, but sure, they're worth $25. Hundred, I don't know.

gna 06-25-15 08:34 PM


Originally Posted by forestine (Post 17926050)


I also did my headset while I had it apart, my front hub, and as mentioned in another thread, my bottom bracket. It's like a whole new bike! I do have an issue with the rear fender, which has a really bad rattle. Everything is as tight as it can be, so I'm not sure how to fix it. Maybe some leather washers?


Looks good! You can come to Lake Pepin now with the Winnipeg crew!

Where does it rattle? I had a Robin Hood with a rear fender that rattled. I needed to snug up the nut on the brake bridge and crimp the fender bracket to the fender a bit.

EDIT: Saw post above. You can try crimping with needle nose pliers, but you may have to take it off the bike.

adventurepdx 06-25-15 08:51 PM


Originally Posted by gna (Post 17927620)
According to St. Sheldon, yes, they did break more easily (scroll down to the "Older Shimano Hubs" section). There are many of these hubs still in use, though, so it could be just fine.

I've had three problems trying to fix them:

1. Documentation is sparse

A few years back I went to the library and took a look at the big ol' Schwinn dealer repair manual from the 70's. They had sections on repairing AW hubs and yes, the 333 hub, with exploded diagrams.

gna 06-25-15 09:33 PM


Originally Posted by adventurepdx (Post 17927681)
A few years back I went to the library and took a look at the big ol' Schwinn dealer repair manual from the 70's. They had sections on repairing AW hubs and yes, the 333 hub, with exploded diagrams.

I have Glenn's Complete Bicycle Manual, and it does have the 333 in it, too.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...4,203,200_.jpg

But if your library doesn't have it, or you get a different version of the 333...

gna 06-25-15 09:39 PM


Originally Posted by Minksy (Post 17926715)
Hello All,

I am wondering if anyone can recommend a suitable front hub replacement for my Rudge Whitworth "deluxe"
The original front dyno hub is frozen and the associated head lamp is long gone. I'll keep this and maybe try to overhaul it, but in the mean time... I'd like to find a front hub that suits this old bike and can pair with Sun CR 18 rims / Sturmey Archer AW in the back.

Any suggestions/experience would be much appreciated

Is your Rudge a Raleigh-built Rudge, or is it older? What is your fork spacing?

Velocivixen 06-26-15 12:19 AM

@Sixty Fiver - What brake levers do you like for your R20 that still has a "vintage flair" that won't look way out of place? I have the Velo Orange City Levers on my "utility" mixte and they're inexpensive & look almost identical to what's on My R20. Just curious. Thanks.

BigChief 06-26-15 08:17 AM

If it's a Raleigh made Rudge, any 32 hole 3 1/2" hub should work.
Just remembered. The older bikes had front hubs with a sliding clip that covered an oil hole. (if you're looking for originality)

stm25rs 06-26-15 08:23 AM


Originally Posted by gna (Post 17927778)

But if your library doesn't have it, or you get a different version of the 333...

Then what? Just replace the whole hub with another unit?

JohnDThompson 06-26-15 08:39 AM


Originally Posted by stm25rs (Post 17928621)
Then what? Just replace the whole hub with another unit?

BITD, Shimano provided blister-packed innards for the 3.3.3 hub, so when they went bad, you just slid out the old innards and popped in a new one. Probably not a stock item anymore, though, but if you find a working donor hub you pull the innards out and swap them into your wheel.

Minksy 06-26-15 09:07 AM

Thank you gna and bigchief for your responses

I'm not sure if mine is raleigh built. The headbadge says "Rudge Whitworth Nottingham England." Some of the components do bear the Raleigh stamp. The serial is 3770705. Anyways - The front fork spacing appears to be around 90mm.

* What are some general sentiments about widening the fork spacing as opposed to searching for the perfect fit? The 90mm size does not seem to be very abundant on the bay

Thanks

markk900 06-26-15 10:43 AM


Originally Posted by forestine (Post 17926506)
That tab seems fine but I checked again and the band around the middle of the fender (with the tab that connects to the brake assembly) seems very loose, like the whole fender wiggles inside the band. I guess I'll have to take the whole thing off and bend it, or maybe add a shim. That explains why all the bolts are tight but it's still wiggling. Tried to get a photo of what I mean, but it's not really working. (And they weren't sideways when I uploaded them. Stupid thing.)

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=460691http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=460692

Tightened the basket straps and re-wet and bent it up a little higher. Looks like that's solved my issues but I need to wait till it dries and give it a test ride first. Yay!

If you do take the whole fender off to attempt to fix, one trick I use is that I put strips of old inner tube between the band and the fender before I recrimp. It almost guarantees a silent fender (at least from that part of the fender!

BigChief 06-26-15 11:02 AM


Originally Posted by Minksy (Post 17928764)
Thank you gna and bigchief for your responses

I'm not sure if mine is raleigh built. The headbadge says "Rudge Whitworth Nottingham England." Some of the components do bear the Raleigh stamp. The serial is 3770705. Anyways - The front fork spacing appears to be around 90mm.

* What are some general sentiments about widening the fork spacing as opposed to searching for the perfect fit? The 90mm size does not seem to be very abundant on the bay

Thanks

Wow, you're right. I didn't think a Sturmey Archer 32 hole front hub would be hard to find on ebay, but it was. Can't imagine why that should be. Should be a common part. Or at least a messed up wheel with a salvageable hub. My forks measure 3 1/2". That converts to 88.9mm. Seems like 90mm might be a little too wide.

gna 06-26-15 12:51 PM


Originally Posted by stm25rs (Post 17928621)
Then what? Just replace the whole hub with another unit?

I was giving examples of sparse documentation. In my case, yes, buy a whole rear wheel with 333 hub from the recycler.

IIRC, recently someone on the c&v forum was having trouble with a 333 hub. I wonder if he was able to fix it.

gna 06-26-15 12:55 PM


Originally Posted by Minksy (Post 17928764)
Thank you gna and bigchief for your responses

I'm not sure if mine is raleigh built. The headbadge says "Rudge Whitworth Nottingham England." Some of the components do bear the Raleigh stamp. The serial is 3770705. Anyways - The front fork spacing appears to be around 90mm.

* What are some general sentiments about widening the fork spacing as opposed to searching for the perfect fit? The 90mm size does not seem to be very abundant on the bay

Thanks

Is there a date on the rear hub? I would try a old Raleigh front wheel, but I' m not sure if a Raleigh front hub with spigoted cones would fit.

forestine 06-26-15 02:37 PM


Originally Posted by gna (Post 17929431)
I was giving examples of sparse documentation. In my case, yes, buy a whole rear wheel with 333 hub from the recycler.

IIRC, recently someone on the c&v forum was having trouble with a 333 hub. I wonder if he was able to fix it.

Could a person stick an AW wheel on there instead? I have a bike with a 333 that has no cabling or shifter anyway, so I would have to find those to fit whichever hub. I know they have some wheels with AW hubs at the local community shop.

Sixty Fiver 06-26-15 02:47 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 17928042)
@Sixty Fiver - What brake levers do you like for your R20 that still has a "vintage flair" that won't look way out of place? I have the Velo Orange City Levers on my "utility" mixte and they're inexpensive & look almost identical to what's on My R20. Just curious. Thanks.

My wife's R20 has Shimano XT levers, mine has some older silver (Shimano) V brake levers... being period correct was not that important when I was upgrading those.

Avid levers are a little prettier in silver... :D

dweenk 06-26-15 03:03 PM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 17928042)
@Sixty Fiver - What brake levers do you like for your R20 that still has a "vintage flair" that won't look way out of place? I have the Velo Orange City Levers on my "utility" mixte and they're inexpensive & look almost identical to what's on My R20. Just curious. Thanks.

I really like the VO city levers. You are right - they are nearly dead ringers for the originals. Plus they are cheap.

Minksy 06-26-15 04:11 PM


Originally Posted by gna (Post 17929438)
Is there a date on the rear hub? I would try a old Raleigh front wheel, but I' m not sure if a Raleigh front hub with spigoted cones would fit.

You'll never believe it by my neighbor had an old Raleigh sports with a 32 hole Raleigh made bolt on front hub - nice chrome, oil cap and all. He have me the whole wheel and it's a perfect fit. Take that epay!

Thanks for the suggestions.

noglider 06-26-15 06:59 PM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 17929056)
If you do take the whole fender off to attempt to fix, one trick I use is that I put strips of old inner tube between the band and the fender before I recrimp. It almost guarantees a silent fender (at least from that part of the fender!

Clevah!

gna 06-26-15 07:33 PM


Originally Posted by forestine (Post 17929740)
Could a person stick an AW wheel on there instead? I have a bike with a 333 that has no cabling or shifter anyway, so I would have to find those to fit whichever hub. I know they have some wheels with AW hubs at the local community shop.

It may fit fine. It's worth a try. What's cheaper?


Originally Posted by Minksy (Post 17930001)
You'll never believe it by my neighbor had an old Raleigh sports with a 32 hole Raleigh made bolt on front hub - nice chrome, oil cap and all. He have me the whole wheel and it's a perfect fit. Take that epay!

Thanks for the suggestions.

Score!


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:38 PM.


Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.