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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

gster 02-05-20 07:03 AM

Interesting Oddball
listed as a 1955 German built Jaguar 3 Speed
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b7dbdfcfb0.png
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b59c07023c.png
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d65e2cbcef.png
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6ef03d5cea.png
Torpedo hub and ??? trigger?

arty dave 02-05-20 03:48 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21314577)

Wow, this is really cool, nice laid back angles like a DL1, cool hub, lovely pinstriped rims. A barrel shifter very much like this was used by SA I think, but it was earlier, maybe teens, 20's?

jackbombay 02-05-20 04:16 PM

Love the fender ornament!!!

The shift cable has a really cool end to it, no nut/bolt clamp to home the cable at the hub end!

JJScaliger 02-05-20 06:25 PM

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f946573d5c.jpg

I got my first commute in today on the Raleigh 3 speed. 5 miles each way with a couple of small hills on the way in. The AW range is ok for me on this short flat ride. 48 x 18

Last week I determined that only 2 gears were engaging in the hub. I flushed the rear hub with a healthy spray of wd40. After letting it set for a couple of days I gave it a try and was able to get all 3 gears to engage, sometimes. I splurged on a new chain indicator and was able to get all 3 gears, most of the time.

That was good enough to give the new ride a chance today. It rode ok, I missed a few shifts at some critical points and had a few gear slips between 3 and 2 while pedalling on the flat.

I think the hub will run smoother as I work the wd40 out of it. I plan to add some heavier oil soon.

bluesteak 02-05-20 07:09 PM


Originally Posted by bluesteak (Post 21242136)
I usually put sewing machine oil in the hole after I take the nut off and let it soak for at least an hour. Then drive it out with a framing hammer supporting the crank arm with a pipe against a solid floor.

I have had to drill a few out.

I finally surrendered and opened my tight wallet. Bought a park tool cotter press on eBay. I couldn’t believe how slick it worked.

Hopefully you folks are up to buying it along with my wrenches from my widow when I die.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3236e08da7.jpg

jackbombay 02-05-20 07:24 PM


Originally Posted by JJScaliger (Post 21315711)
I missed a few shifts at some critical points and had a few gear slips between 3 and 2 while pedalling on the flat.

If there is some slack in the cable when the bike is in 3rd gear and you are getting the neutral space between 2nd and 3rd that means you have something wrong inside the hub, it could be gummed up old oil, but it could be something else going on internally as well. 3rd gear is generally very consistent as that is where the springs inside the hub want to go without any input from the shifter.

clubman 02-05-20 08:11 PM


Originally Posted by JJScaliger (Post 21315711)
I think the hub will run smoother as I work the wd40 out of it. I plan to add some heavier oil soon.

I wouldn't wait on that. WD40 goes away fast. Straight 20 weight is good.

gster 02-06-20 05:05 AM


Originally Posted by JJScaliger (Post 21315711)
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f946573d5c.jpg

I got my first commute in today on the Raleigh 3 speed. 5 miles each way with a couple of small hills on the way in. The AW range is ok for me on this short flat ride. 48 x 18

Last week I determined that only 2 gears were engaging in the hub. I flushed the rear hub with a healthy spray of wd40. After letting it set for a couple of days I gave it a try and was able to get all 3 gears to engage, sometimes. I splurged on a new chain indicator and was able to get all 3 gears, most of the time.

That was good enough to give the new ride a chance today. It rode ok, I missed a few shifts at some critical points and had a few gear slips between 3 and 2 while pedalling on the flat.

I think the hub will run smoother as I work the wd40 out of it. I plan to add some heavier oil soon.

It's difficult to diagnose a hub issue through correspondence like this.
JackB makes a good point that it should not slip in 3 (the hub's natural/resting state.)
Slipping in 2 is common and suggests a minor adjustment of the cable
Not engaging in 1 suggests a cable too tight or
something wrong inside the hub..
Mechanical failures are somewhat rare.
Over the years I've only found 2 instances,
one was a warped axle, cause unknown.
The other, a mangled sun gear. caused by over tightening the hub.
The trigger plays a part as well and is susceptible to damage/binding over the years.
Hub, cable and trigger all need to work together but once dialed in, are quite trouble free.
A new cable will stretch a bit and periodic adjustments are needed.
Once it's all sorted, you may want to consider a larger cog.
I prefer a 19T or 20T.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bb9bd826ac.jpg

BigChief 02-06-20 11:06 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21316120)
It's difficult to diagnose a hub issue through correspondence like this.
JackB makes a good point that it should not slip in 3 (the hub's natural/resting state.)
Slipping in 2 is common and suggests a minor adjustment of the cable
Not engaging in 1 suggests a cable too tight or
something wrong inside the hub..
Mechanical failures are somewhat rare.
Over the years I've only found 2 instances,
one was a warped axle, cause unknown.
The other, a mangled sun gear. caused by over tightening the hub.
The trigger plays a part as well and is susceptible to damage/binding over the years.
Hub, cable and trigger all need to work together but once dialed in, are quite trouble free.
A new cable will stretch a bit and periodic adjustments are needed.
Once it's all sorted, you may want to consider a larger cog.
I prefer a 19T or 20T.

It is hard to tell from posts on a message board. But, the most likely problem is that it is slipping into neutral from 2nd and tightening the cable a twist or two on the barrel adjuster would put things right. The next less likely would be slipping into neutral from 3rd from too tight a cable, but the cable wouldn't be slack in 3rd so it would be more obvious. After that would be a loose guide wheel that slips on the seat tube or loose cable stop on the top tube that keeps messing up the adjustment after you set it. We can already dismiss a bent or rusted link in the indicator chain since it's replaced. After all those, you can consider things inside the hub like sticky pawls.

sykerocker 02-06-20 11:17 AM


Originally Posted by bluesteak (Post 21315755)
I finally surrendered and opened my tight wallet. Bought a park tool cotter press on eBay. I couldn’t believe how slick it worked.

Hopefully you folks are up to buying it along with my wrenches from my widow when I die.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3236e08da7.jpg

One of the cornerstones of my shop, and highest priority in my tool hunt at Westminster this Sunday. I'm even held up in my temporary shop, as without one I can't finish disassembling that burned out Armstrong.

thumpism 02-06-20 01:10 PM

Need to borrow one? You can use it long enough for disassembly, then again for reassembly.

BigChief 02-06-20 01:42 PM


Originally Posted by sykerocker (Post 21316557)
One of the cornerstones of my shop, and highest priority in my tool hunt at Westminster this Sunday. I'm even held up in my temporary shop, as without one I can't finish disassembling that burned out Armstrong.

I can positively recommend this one from Bikesmith. This is also the best place for replacement cotters.
New Crank Cotter Press

Ballenxj 02-06-20 01:52 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21316120)

Ah, Kirk Douglas. :thumb:

dweenk 02-06-20 02:10 PM

^^^^ RIP Kirk.

FBOATSB 02-06-20 02:32 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21316869)
I can positively recommend this one from Bikesmith. This is also the best place for replacement cotters.
New Crank Cotter Press

I decided on this tool as well because you use wrenches on it instead of relying on hand strength (arthritis). And because of this line from his website. "New "Deep Throat" design allows you to orient the press in line with the crank arm for removal of cotters. Holding the tool inline with the arm allows the cupped bolt end to center itself on the offset center of the threaded stem of the cotter."

gster 02-06-20 06:08 PM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21316543)
It is hard to tell from posts on a message board. But, the most likely problem is that it is slipping into neutral from 2nd and tightening the cable a twist or two on the barrel adjuster would put things right. The next less likely would be slipping into neutral from 3rd from too tight a cable, but the cable wouldn't be slack in 3rd so it would be more obvious. After that would be a loose guide wheel that slips on the seat tube or loose cable stop on the top tube that keeps messing up the adjustment after you set it. We can already dismiss a bent or rusted link in the indicator chain since it's replaced. After all those, you can consider things inside the hub like sticky pawls.

Good points. I had a hub that just wouldn't adjust until I realized the cable stop was loose and slowly migrating along the top tube.....

W.L.SOON 02-09-20 10:46 PM

Raleigh roadster rod brake parts for rear Sturmey Archer hub brake.
 
Hello to all. Firstly,my apologies for bumping into your posts,but it seems that this is the appropriate thread for me to post rather than starting a new thread,as most if not all of the English roadsters/sports owners on the forum are here...

Well,to keep it short: I am restoring my 1950s' Gazelle roadster(by Raleigh,Nottingham, not the Dutch version) 28"wheel 22"gents frame. I am hoping to get the rod brake parts for my Sturmey Archer hub brakes. I have posted a detailed message with diagrams at The Marketplace:Want to Buy forum.

Please do take a look at it and I hope some good folks here would be able to help me out.

My apologies again for intruding. Thank you very much,all the best,BYE&GOD BLESS.

Sincerely,
W.L.SOON,Malaysia

BigChief 02-10-20 05:27 AM


Originally Posted by W.L.SOON (Post 21321468)
Hello to all. Firstly,my apologies for bumping into your posts,but it seems that this is the appropriate thread for me to post rather than starting a new thread,as most if not all of the English roadsters/sports owners on the forum are here...

Well,to keep it short: I am restoring my 1950s' Gazelle roadster(by Raleigh,Nottingham, not the Dutch version) 28"wheel 22"gents frame. I am hoping to get the rod brake parts for my Sturmey Archer hub brakes. I have posted a detailed message with diagrams at The Marketplace:Want to Buy forum.

Please do take a look at it and I hope some good folks here would be able to help me out.

My apologies again for intruding. Thank you very much,all the best,BYE&GOD BLESS.

Sincerely,
W.L.SOON,Malaysia

That's a difficult one. Many of the linkage parts are the same as on regular pad rod brakes, so parts from current production Flying Pigeon or Eastman bikes could be adapted to work. From my experience with American coaster brakes, the pads are rarely worn down, just glazed. Roughing up the braking surfaces with 120 grit sandpaper makes a world of difference. It's a good bet you could get away without replacing the pads.

gster 02-10-20 08:12 AM


Originally Posted by W.L.SOON (Post 21321468)
Hello to all. Firstly,my apologies for bumping into your posts,but it seems that this is the appropriate thread for me to post rather than starting a new thread,as most if not all of the English roadsters/sports owners on the forum are here...

Well,to keep it short: I am restoring my 1950s' Gazelle roadster(by Raleigh,Nottingham, not the Dutch version) 28"wheel 22"gents frame. I am hoping to get the rod brake parts for my Sturmey Archer hub brakes. I have posted a detailed message with diagrams at The Marketplace:Want to Buy forum.

Please do take a look at it and I hope some good folks here would be able to help me out.

My apologies again for intruding. Thank you very much,all the best,BYE&GOD BLESS.

Sincerely,
W.L.SOON,Malaysia

There's a set here, a bit expensive..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PHILLIPS-Bi...S/282476722509

But I've also seen Asian and Indian re-pros for sale as well.
An email to these guys might turn up something
https://www.hoopriderparts.com/custo...icycle%20parts

W.L.SOON 02-10-20 09:08 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21321593)
That's a difficult one. Many of the linkage parts are the same as on regular pad rod brakes, so parts from current production Flying Pigeon or Eastman bikes could be adapted to work. From my experience with American coaster brakes, the pads are rarely worn down, just glazed. Roughing up the braking surfaces with 120 grit sandpaper makes a world of difference. It's a good bet you could get away without replacing the pads.

Hello BigChief,thanks for sharing. My S.A. hub brakes are in good condition. It's just that I am missing the proper hardware to operate them:namely the rear brake. I am hoping to find the original hardware/set-up,rather than fabricating from generic parts at the moment. I think I will upload the diagrams here for all to see to get a clearer picture of what I need.

Thank you and GOD BLESS.

W.L.SOON,Malaysia

W.L.SOON 02-10-20 09:16 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 21321710)
There's a set here, a bit expensive..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PHILLIPS-Bi...S/282476722509

But I've also seen Asian and Indian re-pros for sale as well.
An email to these guys might turn up something
https://www.hoopriderparts.com/custo...icycle%20parts

Hello gster,thanks for sharing. Yes,I have visited Katsaris site and seen that particular set before. I have even purchased some parts from him. And no,I would not pay that price for something which is not the correct/direct fit.

I might try Hoopriderparts,but I aim to give it a shot first at finding the correct parts here.

I will post a couple of diagrams of what I need for the brakes so you guys will get a clearer picture.

Thank you and GOD BLESS.

W.L.SOON,Malaysia

W.L.SOON 02-10-20 09:20 AM

Raleigh roadster rod brake parts for rear Sturmey Archer hub brake.
 
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b0bbebe633.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5205a1a6b6.jpg
Hello to all. I am currently trying to find the proper parts for the restoration of my 1950s' Raleigh-made Gazelle,28"wheel 22"gents frame.

I am looking for the correct Front Sturmey Archer hub brake lever for the rod brake. The old catalogue says the part is a HSB 204,but I have yet to find one,but only a HSB 408. Is it the correct/direct replacement for the 204? Please help/advice.

Also looking for the complete rear rod brake actuating parts as circled in red in the second photo. I need the parts to operate the rear S.A. hub brake.

If anyone have these parts for sale/could help me out,please do reply.

Thank you very much. All the best to you all,BYE&GOD BLESS.

Sincerely,
W.L.SOON,Malaysia

W.L.SOON 02-10-20 09:27 AM

Hi.My apologies for copying and pasting my post from the Want to buy forum to here. I just feel that you will see what I need when you see the pics,as not everyone is free to 'go and have a look at another forum on what I want to find/buy'. So here it is. Hope you good folks don't mind. And please do help out/advise.

Thank you very much and GOD BLESS.

W.L.SOON,Malaysia

gster 02-11-20 08:21 AM


Originally Posted by W.L.SOON (Post 21321841)
Hi.My apologies for copying and pasting my post from the Want to buy forum to here. I just feel that you will see what I need when you see the pics,as not everyone is free to 'go and have a look at another forum on what I want to find/buy'. So here it is. Hope you good folks don't mind. And please do help out/advise.

Thank you very much and GOD BLESS.

W.L.SOON,Malaysia

https://www.goracycles.com/bicycle-b...ter-india.html

W.L.SOON 02-11-20 09:10 AM

Hello gster. Thank you,appreciate it. They don't seem to have the brake set up that I need,but they do have many other parts that I will spend more time to look at. Thanks again and GOD BLESS.

Sincerely,
W.L.SOON,Malaysia


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