I've never done a head badge but I have replaced colors on shifter faceplates. On this one, the colors failed completely right down to the brass. I scraped out the corrosion then tried to fill with paint. Paint might work, but I found you need it to set just right before you wipe the top of the plate or it cleans the color out of the embossed spots where you want it to stay. I decided to use an alcohol based ink instead. This sets very quickly and is easy to use. The skinny font and lines were super easy. I just colored the area with a red sharpie and wiped off the surface with an alcohol dampened rag and bingo, nice red fill in the lines. I did the same with the wider black area and it filled all the small spots and edges, but the rag wiped off some color in the center which I had to touch up with the sharpie. Came out nice I think.

Attachment 577373

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Those shifter covers look really nice. Where did you get alcohol based paint? Just a craft store? I was gonna suggest a paint pen - Blick Art Supply has them with different sized tips, etc.

I just used Sharpie permanent markers. You just go over the area then wipe it off the top surface with the alcohol dampened rag. That fills in all the tiny places.

This is so timely! I will be taking an old shifter apart to replace the spring. Need to see all the info I can about rebuilding one. I know I am in for a fight from what I have read!

Nice work [MENTION=398265]BigChief[/MENTION]

Nice work.

Hi gster!
Great to see you at the show.
glad you could finally get into the guts of the AW hub. THE MOST IMPORTANT adjustment is the play in the axle jam nut..1/4 to 5/8 turn after seating it.
You will find how that tiny amount of looseness effects how it shifts up and down. So try it. Set the loosness to minimum, then go ride ten mins feeling how it shifts. loosen it to midrange in the setting, and ride again, noting how there is a subtle change, then go back and adjust the cones to max, and go for a quick spin.
You should notice and determine a preference as to how loose the cone adjustment is.

I prefer mine just a tickle on the snug side, closer to min 1/3 turn off bearing seat.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4413/...16b6bdfe_z.jpgIMG20170823071445 by arty dave armour, on Flickr

This is after I neutralised it in bicarb water.

Big Chief thanks heaps for the advise! I did try the 'paint and wipe' method but as you said, the paint just wiped right out. The only other advise I'd read was to let the paint dry and then sand the paint off the raised parts of the headbadge. But mine is old and worn already so I didn't want to put it through that and lose more material. Sharpies, cool! ...and easy!
Also BC - nice green on your new ride...it looks far more green than the usual 'bronze' green.

Did a driving trip to SC for the eclipse and checked CL after getting home for the locales I'd passed through. This is in Winston-Salem NC. That's a twist shifter for an old Sturmey. Pretty bike.

https://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/...248023147.html

"RARE FIND" OLDER ARMSTRONG "WOMEN'S" BICYCLE CIRCA 1950's "REDUCED" - $275 (Advance)

https://images.craigslist.org/00S0S_...hD_600x450.jpg

condition: good

Older Armstrong "WOMEN'S" Bicycle

Circa 1950's

Good Condition, Everything Works

CALLS ONLY show contact info ****NO TEXTS PLEASE****

Price WAS $350.00, NOW $275.00

And here's a pretty one in Raleigh. Never heard of Marfield.

https://raleigh.craigslist.org/bik/d...258637442.html

VINTAGE MARFIELD 3 SPEED - $100 (RALEIGH)

https://raleigh.craigslist.org/bik/d...258637442.html

in great condition.made in england.rides great.19in frame.26in tires.cash and carry.if nterested please call or text bob at show contact info thanks.

Another Raleigh made label I never heard of. A google search turned up that it was sold through Marshal Fields. A department store out of Chicago.

True, there is not a hint of metallic in this green. It's just as solid as green porch paint. A little searching on the subject turned up this blog post.
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2017...nze-green.html
Apparently, even if the catalogs only mentioned bronze green, there were variations.

[QUOTE=arty dave;19729097]I'm curious too.

I've also put S5 internals into the AW shell, but haven't tried it with the AB.

Angelo I looked at the parts lists & diagrams for both - the planet cage on the AB looks smaller than the S5 planet cage. So I don't think it will work :(
I have an S5 that is currently out of its shell. I'll leave it that way and compare it with the AB hub from my DL-1 that I want to open and clean. Stay tuned, hopefully within the next week or so I'll post my findings. An AB5 would be a perfect hub for a roadster :)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4428/...ba339257_c.jpgIMG20170823181013 by arty dave armour, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4367/...6b376df2_c.jpgIMG20170823190652 by arty dave armour, on Flickr

In the 1st image I'd already put some black sharpie on the headbadge. I like the result - it's what I was hoping for; a bit more colour & still a bit worn looking. Had to go over it a few times as I'd accidentally wipe out the colour I'd already put in :i I guess you could mask off one colour while doing the other.

Nice job! I can see how these parts would be considerably more difficult than the flat shifter faceplate. The badge on my 72 roadster is completely devoid of color. I think I'll give this a try. Looks great.

Glad you came out.
It was a great show and (as usual) the weather was perfect.
I'm pretty good with adjusting the hub and now that I've spent an entire day messing around with that other hub, I now know what to look for inside.
Here's an interesting bike for sale.
A Raleigh built and re-branded British Supreme 3 speed.
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Thanks for the sound check. I did find a loose nut&bolt on the rear fender which was probably the cause of some rattles.

Got these" old pieces of junk" from my friends dark dusty bins at the LBS. now to figure out if I rebuild or try to repair the one that is pushed in, restricting the spring.

The other is a replacement for my Bluemmel pump nossile.

[MENTION=398265]BigChief[/MENTION], bravo on the shifter renovation!

[MENTION=399166]thumpism[/MENTION], did you buy that bike? Those twist shifters are notoriously bad. I had one, and it was bad for me, too.

No, I was already out of the area by the time I checked CL, my patented method for NOT buying bikes I might be tempted to get (http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...g-failure.html). I did my usual trip prep; had the money, the rack and bungees, etc., but did not need them. Besides, I'm all 3-speeded up anyway.

What a great find!!! Those will turn out beautiful. Couldn't seem to get PM working. I use a 1/16" punch

Still trying to narrow the year on my bike project. Probably a Dawn Tourist serial # 69722. During my hours of google searching I found an image of tube brackets which I can not find now. But, on this bike, on my top tube at the seat tube the bracket is plain like a copper plumbing coupler, at the head tube the top tube bracket has a design feature. [is it called a birds mouth] I find this, plan on one end and design on the other end of the top tube in the 1950, 1951 and 1952 models. Any thoughts?

The Bike that Started it All
 

This 1978 Canadian built Raleigh Superbe was the first 3 speed I bought and started my interest in these machines.
Purchased from a guy up the street seven years ago, this is my everyday work bike and gets the most use. It also gets the most attention. last year all the bearings were re-packed and new cables installed in the original ribbed housings.
Attachment 577681

Yesterday, I installed a 22T cog and a new chain. We'll see that works out.

Attachment 577681

In fact, after buying another English built Superbe in much better condition, I foolishly sold this one. Luckily the buyer had second thoughts (i.e. he didn't have any money) and the bike came back to me.

I don't remember seeing this one. Nice! After I get my green Sports on the road we'll have another pair of twins.

I was in the COOP for a totally unrelated reason and just happened upon this unmarked chrome steel stem while perusing the bins. It just spoke "English three speed" to me. Would this be correct?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Sn...g=w547-h971-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H5...g=w547-h971-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Jg...A=w547-h971-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Of...w=w547-h971-no

Yes, the bracket shapes at the steering tube and seat tube along with the button type oiler in the bottom bracket are the features that date the frame to before 1955. The guide wheel lug on the top tube is the feature that dates the frame after 1950. We know the bike was fixed up sometime after the later 60s by the rear fender and pedals, so it's hard to say if it was originally a Dawn or Dawn Tourist. The tourist was supposed to have both the enclosed chaincase and 3 speed hub as standard. I think it would be correct to restore it to either model.

No. It could be British and if not might even fit, but a 3-speed stem would be very short so that there would be a clearance for the headlight. Stems like this interfere with the headlight location.

Your bike looks like it has the wide bars of the later Sports. I have a pristine root beer Sports that has 66cm wide bars. I find them too wide for comfort, so my daily rider is a beat up Sports with 55cm bars.

[MENTION=380471]FBOATSB[/MENTION]

That stem really looks like the English stem they used on drop bar 10 speeds or upright Raleigh Sprites.

Nice stem but hard to get drop bars through, even if they are the right clamp diameter

[MENTION=398265]BigChief[/MENTION] does it matter which pin you drive out first? Got the punch but now looking for a suitable work surface. Maybe a piece if hardwood with a hole drilled through it?

Thanks! Found the tutorial, now trying to get my head around the sequence.

Thanks. I guess when it spoke, I didn't hear.