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Put the forks in last night, can't tell anything was ever wrong with it.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e833e29864.jpg How many other variations in the drop tube frames other than the two advertised sizes, 19 and 21" were there. This one measures 21" but the thing sits and rides taller than my 23" men's Sports. The bars are also closer to me on this bike, the riding position is more on top of the bars rather than behind them. It makes for some knee clearance issues at slow speeds, something I don't notice on a '72 model drop tube Sports I have here also in 21" but that bike has a 1" shorter steer tube. Maybe the Sprite frame was different somehow from the Sports? When comparing this to a '72 ladies model Sports, also a 21" frame, I can see right away that the seat stays and both the top and down tubes are shorter than the Sports, yet the head tube is 3/8" longer and it is less laid back then on the Sports frame When side by side, the top of the head tube on the Sprite is 1/2" more rearward and tilted further forward . The 72 Sports had a 7 1/2" steer tube on its fork vs the 8" on the green Sprite. Both are 26" bikes. The forks on the Sprite have more rake or curve forward, but the the same tire clearance. The difference isn't much, maybe 1/4" or so but compared to an older, mid 50's fork from a ladies bike, the green fork is very different mainlly in the last 4" or so. The earlier forks are much straighter and more rigid. I noticed this before straightening the green fork, I tried mounting up an earlier fork and realized how much shorter it was going to make the bike overall do to having less trail. I believe that fork was from the '59 frame I have stored away outside. (I guess I should mention that I've got about 40 or so of these bikes in various states of disrepair that I got from a number of old bike shops that closed up over the years, with a few being CL and yard sale finds. I've always just parted out the ladies bikes and hung the frames in the trailer out back, but this one was different so it stayed together with the intent to eventually get around to going over it and keeping it. I was going to just pull out the 52, or the 59 to do when I found the bent fork but someone her didn't want a black bike, so green it is). Since someone made a pretty serious offer on this bikes rear S5 hub, I'll have to re-lace the back wheel with an AW. I didn't realize the S5 hubs were so valuable these days. I had pulled both wheels apart to replace a few ugly spoke nipples anyway, and I never did use the hi/lo feature anyhow. I'll just put a larger rear sprocket on an AW and all will be fine. It'll likely never come out of low or mid range anyhow. When assembled, the seat tube and head tube sit more upright on the Sprite and the overall bike is shorter by a few inches. Until I started taking measurements looking for further damage, and trying to use the Sports frame for comparison I never new there were any changes over the years or between models. If I get the chance, I want to dig out a few others and see if those are similar or do they differ was well. I've got a few older ladies frames in my storage trailer and a few in the basement somewhere I have to dig for to find. Out of all of them, it was the green Sprite that I chose to keep together as a beater bike and loaner because it rode so much better, but I do seem to remember having to stay aware that the cranks tended to hit the ground quicker on turns on the Sprite. After measuring the seat stays and main tubes, I can see now that the BB sits a bit lower on this bike than on the sports, but the more upright seat tube makes for a very different feel when riding it. Also, as someone with knee issues, having the cranks located more directly below me makes for a bike that's much easier on my knees. |
Originally Posted by dirtman
(Post 22305786)
Put the forks in last night, can't tell anything was ever wrong with it.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e833e29864.jpg How many other variations in the drop tube frames other than the two advertised sizes, 19 and 21" were there. This one measures 21" but the thing sits and rides taller than my 23" men's Sports. The bars are also closer to me on this bike, the riding position is more on top of the bars rather than behind them. It makes for some knee clearance issues at slow speeds, something I don't notice on a '72 model drop tube Sports I have here also in 21" but that bike has a 1" shorter steer tube. Maybe the Sprite frame was different somehow from the Sports? When comparing this to a '72 ladies model Sports, also a 21" frame, I can see right away that the seat stays and both the top and down tubes are shorter than the Sports, yet the head tube is 3/8" longer and it is less laid back then on the Sports frame When side by side, the top of the head tube on the Sprite is 1/2" more rearward and tilted further forward . The 72 Sports had a 7 1/2" steer tube on its fork vs the 8" on the green Sprite. Both are 26" bikes. The forks on the Sprite have more rake or curve forward, but the the same tire clearance. The difference isn't much, maybe 1/4" or so but compared to an older, mid 50's fork from a ladies bike, the green fork is very different mainlly in the last 4" or so. The earlier forks are much straighter and more rigid. I noticed this before straightening the green fork, I tried mounting up an earlier fork and realized how much shorter it was going to make the bike overall do to having less trail. I believe that fork was from the '59 frame I have stored away outside. (I guess I should mention that I've got about 40 or so of these bikes in various states of disrepair that I got from a number of old bike shops that closed up over the years, with a few being CL and yard sale finds. I've always just parted out the ladies bikes and hung the frames in the trailer out back, but this one was different so it stayed together with the intent to eventually get around to going over it and keeping it. I was going to just pull out the 52, or the 59 to do when I found the bent fork but someone her didn't want a black bike, so green it is). Since someone made a pretty serious offer on this bikes rear S5 hub, I'll have to re-lace the back wheel with an AW. I didn't realize the S5 hubs were so valuable these days. I had pulled both wheels apart to replace a few ugly spoke nipples anyway, and I never did use the hi/lo feature anyhow. I'll just put a larger rear sprocket on an AW and all will be fine. It'll likely never come out of low or mid range anyhow. When assembled, the seat tube and head tube sit more upright on the Sprite and the overall bike is shorter by a few inches. Until I started taking measurements looking for further damage, and trying to use the Sports frame for comparison I never new there were any changes over the years or between models. If I get the chance, I want to dig out a few others and see if those are similar or do they differ was well. I've got a few older ladies frames in my storage trailer and a few in the basement somewhere I have to dig for to find. Out of all of them, it was the green Sprite that I chose to keep together as a beater bike and loaner because it rode so much better, but I do seem to remember having to stay aware that the cranks tended to hit the ground quicker on turns on the Sprite. After measuring the seat stays and main tubes, I can see now that the BB sits a bit lower on this bike than on the sports, but the more upright seat tube makes for a very different feel when riding it. Also, as someone with knee issues, having the cranks located more directly below me makes for a bike that's much easier on my knees. |
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This girl just join the family.
Picked up this Raleigh sport gold as a gift for my wife. It will undergo a rebuild as a proper ladies bike using a new Brooks saddle and leather grips that I will take on as a DIY project. I’m a hobbyist wood worker, so this beauty will have some neat padauk on the front and rear rack to be installed.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...644a69e95.jpeg |
Mine measures between 23 and 24 or just under 24 mm. |
Originally Posted by Salubrious
(Post 22305045)
Thieves got into my garage and stole three bikes- my Superb, a 1960s ladie's Sprite and a 1974 ladies Superbe, which had an alloy 1950s AW hub on a CR18 rim with SA wingnuts. Sheesh.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7872c66065.jpg The Superbe is a bike I've had for about 15 years. It has alloy CR18 rims with a 1962 (IIRC) SA hub, SA wingnuts on the front, alloy bars, Brooks grips, alloy Nitto 'Dirt Drop' stem, 1960s shifter, alloy seatpost and a 1960s Brooks B72. The saddlebag is a wax and canvas Minnehaha. LED lighting front and rear- the rear is mounted high so it can be seen. Crane bell, a frankenstien front brake made of a combo of Weinmann and Raleigh parts- the brake arms are the alloy bits. Weinmann brake levers too. There is a snowflake style Raleigh crank and Lyotard 460 steel pedals. I have the key for the fork lock. |
Oldspokes mentioned that OLD AMERICAN handlebars were 7/8" (22.2mm)........yes, this was the outer diameter of the handlebar's tubing EXCEPT THAT THE CLAMP AREA PORTION is 1" (25.4mm)
So yeah for example you'd have the 22.2 WEINMANN TOURIST BRAKE LEVERS (red dot, gold dot,...whatever..) and your stem would be 25.4mm clamp area. |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 22305838)
Interesting...
1932 Norman https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b60f92254f.jpg https://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details...term=514887089 Also: https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...railleurs.html |
Originally Posted by Alsobay
(Post 22305953)
Picked up this Raleigh sport gold as a gift for my wife. It will undergo a rebuild as a proper ladies bike using a new Brooks saddle and leather grips that I will take on as a DIY project. I’m a hobbyist wood worker, so this beauty will have some neat padauk on the front and rear rack to be installed.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...644a69e95.jpeg |
Originally Posted by 1989Pre
(Post 22306664)
Excellent article from Disraeli Gears.
A good resource. I don't have any derailleur bikes but I do like derailleurs as little machines. I have several on display |
Here in Toronto, the price continues to drop on this one.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e785b3b621.jpg Currently at $55.00 |
3 speed 1952 Claud Butler tandem dolled up for Christmas
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1c23d0ec22.jpg
From inside looking out https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0e75a0df4.jpeg From outside looking up About 60 ft of lights to wrap it. 4 strings. One for each wheel, and the other two around the frame |
Three 3-speeds for cheap in MA; a Phillips and two Sportses, one of them a men's 23". "Best offer."
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...89084501666172 https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...8f&oe=61B5F597 |
Originally Posted by clubman
(Post 22305455)
Well, when you find the steam to build another 3 speed, ask me for parts. I'm starting a 2 year downsize. (retirement?)
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f39f4b1384.jpg This is a royal Enfield 'Lightweight Sports'. I pulled this bike out of mothballs to act as my commuter for the time being. I had thought it was a '48, based on the hub date, but the hardware (notably the fulcrum clip, which in the 1930s was a single piece part, the headset hardware, the Bayliss Wiley front hub and all the black hardware that was chromed after the war) and graphics on the bike suggest its a 30s machine. The Lightweight Sports was supplied without a chain guard. The one seen here was added later. Both hubs were had over-tightened bearing cones and were in need of lubrication. The brakes were in need of adjustment and now the bike brakes fairly well even if the rims are wet. The seatpost is a smaller diameter than expected; it uses a sleeve to fit it to the frame. The original shifter is long gone- I installed a 50s brass shifter to replace the 70s shifter it came with. But the correct shifter was likely a K Patt barrel shifter since the quadrant shifter has no need of a fulcrum clip. |
Ooof. I love those Midland racks on top of everything else, like the painted rim pinstripes.
That's special. |
Originally Posted by clubman
(Post 22308133)
Ooof. I love those Midland racks on top of everything else, like the painted rim pinstripes.
That's special. |
Originally Posted by Salubrious
(Post 22305045)
Thieves got into my garage and stole three bikes- my Superb, a 1960s ladie's Sprite and a 1974 ladies Superbe, which had an alloy 1950s AW hub on a CR18 rim with SA wingnuts. Sheesh.
<--------> The Superbe is a bike I've had for about 15 years. It has alloy CR18 rims with a 1962 (IIRC) SA hub, SA wingnuts on the front, alloy bars, Brooks grips, alloy Nitto 'Dirt Drop' stem, 1960s shifter, alloy seatpost and a 1960s Brooks B72. The saddlebag is a wax and canvas Minnehaha. LED lighting front and rear- the rear is mounted high so it can be seen. Crane bell, a frankenstien front brake made of a combo of Weinmann and Raleigh parts- the brake arms are the alloy bits. Weinmann brake levers too. There is a snowflake style Raleigh crank and Lyotard 460 steel pedals. I have the key for the fork lock. |
Originally Posted by thumpism
(Post 22307303)
Three 3-speeds for cheap in MA; a Phillips and two Sportses, one of them a men's 23". "Best offer."
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...89084501666172 |
Originally Posted by 2fat2fly
(Post 22311328)
Looks like that ad was listed 4 years ago, it may be a running ad for a flipper, or they've now been sitting outdoors for 4 more years since those pics were taken.
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Anyone ever run into 170mm or 175mm length crankarms for cottered cranks? The Williams C34 crank I am using on my '51 Wasp + Sturmey FW has 165mm crankarms and they're bugging my knees. I had this same problem with my Superbe. Bikes with 170mm or 175mm arms don't bother me at all. I'd rather not go out and buy a Stronglight crank or alternative.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a1386c04_b.jpgPXL_20210624_002831127 |
Maybe, will look.
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Originally Posted by Ged117
(Post 22311504)
Anyone ever run into 170mm or 175mm length crankarms for cottered cranks? The Williams C34 crank I am using on my '51 Wasp + Sturmey FW has 165mm crankarms and they're bugging my knees. I had this same problem with my Superbe. Bikes with 170mm or 175mm arms don't bother me at all. I'd rather not go out and buy a Stronglight crank or alternative.
PXL_20210624_002831127 |
Originally Posted by Ged117
(Post 22311504)
Anyone ever run into 170mm or 175mm length crankarms for cottered cranks? The Williams C34 crank I am using on my '51 Wasp + Sturmey FW has 165mm crankarms and they're bugging my knees. I had this same problem with my Superbe. Bikes with 170mm or 175mm arms don't bother me at all. I'd rather not go out and buy a Stronglight crank or alternative.
PXL_20210624_002831127 Edit. The chrome is in better shape than the pics show. Also, the NDS arm looks older, it appears to be nickel plate. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bcc7e2bb57.png |
FREE Raleigh Twenty in MA.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...32596744888103 https://scontent.fric1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...b5&oe=619CBB67 |
Originally Posted by clubman
(Post 22312419)
So I've got a drive side, 7 inch Williams 5 pin crankarm (~177 mm). I've got a similar NDS arm, 'British Made' also 7 " but it has a 1/2 pedal thread so it would have to be tapped to 9/16". Anyway, yours for shipping plus 2 cans of Old Speckled Hen. Sorry I don't have an extra 5 pin ring.
Edit. The chrome is in better shape than the pics show. Also, the NDS arm looks older, it appears to be nickel plate. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...bcc7e2bb57.png |
Front fender stay?
I hope this doesn’t violate forum rules but I thought I would get more traction in this thread.
Looking for a front fender stay for my single speed Rudge. Measurement is a hair over 14.5 inches. TIA https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a3e4fdc7a6.jpg Tape measure is deceiving. 14.5” is accurate. BTW - I’m assumingleft and right are mirror image but I’ve been wrong before…😬 |
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^ Zip ties. They really should have used a full loop of chain, and someone will really be pissed about that wasted Rudge crankarm.
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Where do they get the clock mechanisms? I could make up a clock for my shop.
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Originally Posted by bluesteak
(Post 22317642)
Where do they get the clock mechanisms? I could make up a clock for my shop.
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