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Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 22418167)
I'm using Nicelite NL432 front and NL437R rear LED bulbs in my 51 Rudge's Dynohub system. I highly recommend them. Since the 437R is actually red, it makes up for the faded plastic lens on the rear lamp. Quite bright too. I didn't install a capacitor to smooth out the strobe effect. It's not noticeable at speed, but walking the bike up a hill on a dark country road at night can be a bit...trippy.
http://www.reflectalite.com/LEDpage.html |
My old bike!
hey nlerner,
did you buy that from me? do you know where it is now? I’d love to have it again. thanks
Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 21812410)
I can confirm that both bikes have EA3--26 x 1 3/8" wheels (with the men's rear, at least, not original) with Dunlop tires all around. Perhaps the originals?!
I find it interesting, too, that while the men's frame certainly has more slack angles than later models, they are still a fair amount more upright than an early 1930s Sports that I had for a while: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...be8ef72753.jpg |
Originally Posted by Lumpy Jones
(Post 22421189)
hey nlerner,
did you buy that from me? do you know where it is now? I’d love to have it again. thanks |
Originally Posted by nlerner
(Post 22421251)
I had a two different 1930s Sports right around them. One came from a local friend, and the other I bought from a CL seller in NH. Was that you?
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https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...207bbb21e0.jpg
Rex Classique I bought these maybe 15 years ago new in the box. 1974 date code on the SA rear hubs. Unusual, in that they were built for 27" wheels. The tall one is mine. 25" frame. |
Retroman57, they are in such great condition. Are those saddles Brooks Flyer S?
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Elswick
Just took the Elswick light roadster out for a spin. Thought I would take some photos while I have it out in the sun.
A shout-out to SirMike. The Chain case fits and really dresses up the bike. |
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Originally Posted by bluesteak
(Post 22422232)
Here are some photos.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...97d363be42.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c21e23d982.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7b103cc2ef.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7d4d4e8f43.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0e305d688b.jpg |
Wrights saddles
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I've got a late '70s Raleigh Sports with its original black rubber pedals. One of them has a bent pedal spindle. I got a set of modern pedals to replace them (VO Sabot), but when I install them, the threaded portion of the pedals are longer than the thickness of the crank arm, and thus a bit of the pedal axle sticks out beyond the inside of the crankarm. This bit clips the chain guard on the right side and makes the bike unrideable without badly bending or removing the chain guard. Does anybody know of some sort of spacer that would correct for this imbalance, or am I stuck either grinding the pedals down or just sticking with the stock Raleigh pedals?
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Originally Posted by aoeuidhtns
(Post 22424095)
I've got a late '70s Raleigh Sports with its original black rubber pedals. One of them has a bent pedal spindle. I got a set of modern pedals to replace them (VO Sabot), but when I install them, the threaded portion of the pedals are longer than the thickness of the crank arm, and thus a bit of the pedal axle sticks out beyond the inside of the crankarm. This bit clips the chain guard on the right side and makes the bike unrideable without badly bending or removing the chain guard. Does anybody know of some sort of spacer that would correct for this imbalance, or am I stuck either grinding the pedals down or just sticking with the stock Raleigh pedals?
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
(Post 22424117)
Modern pedals are often sold with washers (spacers) for exactly this purpose. If you can find a set of those you'll be all set.
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
(Post 22424117)
Modern pedals are often sold with washers (spacers) for exactly this purpose. If you can find a set of those you'll be all set.
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Originally Posted by retroman57
(Post 22424020)
Wrights saddles
Actually the saddle on the Elswick is a Brooks b66s, old style, no laces. Which was pretty dear, more than the rest of the bike. I have a Wrights on another Roadster, that’s rideable but pretty uncomfortable. What are the options for restoring it? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...59888a48bf.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a399d6b397.jpg |
Wrights
Twas an answer to post 25761
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Originally Posted by bluesteak
(Post 22424519)
I have a Wrights on another Roadster, that’s rideable but pretty uncomfortable. What are the options for restoring it?
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a399d6b397.jpg |
Originally Posted by dedhed
(Post 22414107)
Got it. Rather than a "battery pack" you modified them to insert in the D battery slots and just remove & recharge.
I did put in a screw base LED flashlight bulb in one but as you say the directionality doesn't make good use of the reflector and voltage. I basically use it for the "vintage accessory look" and a "be seen" light and mount a magicshine when riding at night where I need to actually see. I used two lengths of 1" PVC conduit and two pieces of schedule 10 PVC in the middle with two 12mm extentions set in some rubber hose to make a pair of 18500 batteries fit lengthwise. Light wise, with the homemade LED bulb its no brighter but the run time is seemingly forever. I left it on all day yesterday and all night and it was still lit this afternoon. The batteries were barely down any at all. Both batteries were still over 3.9v. (They came off the charger at 4.2v). No matter what though, the light is brighter now than with the original bulb and two D cells, and its longevity is a lot better but the bulb really isn't taking advantage of the reflector. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a3a66a2496.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e69900352b.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...00c674dfc2.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8507dcf99a.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a43934fe09.jpg |
Looking for a chainguard or chaincase for a Raleigh DL-1: 28 inch wheels. Looking for the guard in Superbe Green (dark green - kind of like "British racing green").
Color: https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-43ze51qtE...506_133332.jpg Willing to purchase or trade (I have mostly old 3-speed parts for Raleighs and Schwinns). |
Overpriced but cool, and Jerry approved.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...79885979805573 https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...Zw&oe=62275562 |
Originally Posted by thumpism
(Post 22428593)
Overpriced but cool, and Jerry approved.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...79885979805573 https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...Zw&oe=62275562 One of these days I'll get around to going over it. I did ride it a few times, its geared low and its light compared to most 3 speeds. Surprisingly I can ride it fairly easily just by raising the saddle up about 4" or so. Mine has a longer stem, alloy bars with the old white plastic levers and grips that came on the UO-18 models then. I was going to give it a set of 27x1 3/8" tires, full length fenders, and a rear rack and make it sort of a spare or guest bike. |
I gave this to a friend and when the gears were too tall for him we changed the rear sprocket and crank. Cottered Stronglight with a 42 in front and 20 in the rear.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c66dd75414.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4a2485bc92.jpg A cotter press was so useful on this. |
With 44/20 gearing in low that thing probably pulls like a tractor.
I set one up with a stock 46t and a 22t rear cog for a friend years ago, and that felt as if the new second gear was lower then the original first gear. With the 22t I seem to recall having to raise the chainguard a bit too. |
Originally Posted by vintagebicycle
(Post 22430022)
With 44/20 gearing in low that thing probably pulls like a tractor.
I set one up with a stock 46t and a 22t rear cog for a friend years ago, and that felt as if the new second gear was lower then the original first gear. With the 22t I seem to recall having to raise the chainguard a bit too. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d16719ee4f.jpg course is set up 42-21 with 700c wheels so 40.5-54-72. you sacrifice top end but I'm in no hurry. If I am I take another bike. This way I can climb easily from the riverfront to the bluff where I live. |
My triumph pulls stumps as well.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...82a45b1998.jpg |
Did some more cleaning up and derusting on Bob the 72 Raleigh Sports today. Front rim cleaned up not to bad but there's nasty patch of pealing chrome on the brake shoe side. I may end up having to source some better rims. I have a pair from a Robin Hood parts bike but they are Endrick style rather than the Westwood style on the Raleigh.
It's funny how some bits rusted badly in its 30 odd years in a dank cellar, while other bits escaped relatively unscathed. The bike won't be a perfect restoration by any means but hopefully it'll function as it should and look respectable going down the road. |
Originally Posted by swampyankee2
(Post 22430605)
Did some more cleaning up and derusting on Bob the 72 Raleigh Sports today. Front rim cleaned up not to bad but there's nasty patch of pealing chrome on the brake shoe side. I may end up having to source some better rims. I have a pair from a Robin Hood parts bike but they are Endrick style rather than the Westwood style on the Raleigh.
It's funny how some bits rusted badly in its 30 odd years in a dank cellar, while other bits escaped relatively unscathed. The bike won't be a perfect restoration by any means but hopefully it'll function as it should and look respectable going down the road. |
$25 Fleet Wing in DE. Beach location might mean corrosion.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...77605179749717 https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...Kw&oe=622A5DAD |
This looks like a very lonely bicycle. It will need a lot of Tender Loving Care to feel better.
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The newest/oldest member of the 3 speed fleet.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9be413ee_z.jpg The badge says Huffy but the frame says Raleigh Sports. It has a weldment for a chain case and a BB oiler, so that dates the frame to early to mid fifties. Wheels are replacements from god knows when, though the AW is date 5/65. The chain guard and front fender are off an American built Huffy Sportsmen my dad pulled out of the trash. This is what it looked like when I got it. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...90a61881_z.jpg |
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