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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

bikamper 04-30-23 03:49 PM


Originally Posted by nlerner (Post 22874934)
Are any of you contributors to this thread heading to Minnesota for the Lake Pepin 3-speed Tour later in May? I signed up last week and plan to bring my '38 Maclean Featherweight with an FW rear hub (yes, 4-speed, but there are allowances).

I'll be there for maybe my 10th ride. I'll have my looks like hell 23" Bitsa Sports with some modern-ish accouterments. Looking forward to meeting you and seeing your Maclean.

gna 05-01-23 12:42 PM

The pads for my DL-1 showed up, but they look like regular brake pads. Shouldn't they be curved?
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...11e828831c.jpg

SirMike1983 05-01-23 01:41 PM

Some of the rod brake pads come pre-rounded and some do not. They will take a shape as they wear-in with use. You can also pre-round them by sanding them down a bit if you want immediate full contact.

cudak888 05-01-23 02:55 PM


Originally Posted by gna (Post 22876816)
The pads for my DL-1 showed up, but they look like regular brake pads. Shouldn't they be curved?

That's not going to fit. Rod brakes use shoes with a mount 90 degrees to the braking surface, not inline with it.

Keep your original pad holders and get these Kool-Stops: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Rou...005FKP3HA?th=1

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1fe0d2f242.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...15c82167b7.jpg

-Kurt

gna 05-01-23 03:08 PM


Originally Posted by cudak888 (Post 22876970)
That's not going to fit. Rod brakes use shoes with a mount 90 degrees to the braking surface, not inline with it.

Keep your original pad holders and get these Kool-Stops: https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Rounded-Philips-Holders/dp/B005FKP3HA?th=

-Kurt

Unfortunately, the brake shoes don't look like they have pad holders--they're closed all around the rubber. Don't look quite like yours.
I found the number of SH144 or ASH144 searching the forum.

cudak888 05-01-23 11:34 PM


Originally Posted by gna (Post 22876984)
Unfortunately, the brake shoes don't look like they have pad holders--they're closed all around the rubber. Don't look quite like yours.
I found the number of SH144 or ASH144 searching the forum.

This is what the current Fibrax model looks like that's DL-1 compatible:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/23348756806...Bk9SR6ComK_7YQ

These are the 144's:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Bik...-/252460875293

-Kurt

SirMike1983 05-02-23 07:09 AM

Kurt is correct about how those particular brakes you photographed mount - those look like the brakes for a Raleigh Sports type caliper brake.

1989Pre 05-02-23 09:25 AM

Flooding on the Lower Androscoggin
 
I tried to ride the M.U.P. today, but it seems that I was unaware of the worst flooding in over 20 years. I didn't know how deep it was, so I rode past a roadie who had stopped before the water and I continued. The water was thirty-three inches deep when I got off my Rudge and turned it back around. The roadie commented, "Thanks! I didn't know how deep it was!" Anyway, I tried, and gave the roadie a show of what three-speeds can do (or almost can do).Lots of leaves and sticks and stuff I had to wipe off the bike, afterward.

cudak888 05-02-23 10:14 AM


Originally Posted by 1989Pre (Post 22877712)
I tried to ride the M.U.P. today, but it seems that I was unaware of the worst flooding in over 20 years. I didn't know how deep it was, so I rode past a roadie who had stopped before the water and I continued. The water was thirty-three inches deep when I got off my Rudge and turned it back around. The roadie commented, "Thanks! I didn't know how deep it was!" Anyway, I tried, and gave the roadie a show of what three-speeds can do (or almost can do).Lots of leaves and sticks and stuff I had to wipe off the bike, afterward. Anyone else have a story of high-water traverse while riding your three-speed? (I'd send you a photo of me in my wet cargo shorts, but it would just look like a guy who fell victim to bladder problems).

Could that water have had any salt in it from any nearby water mass?

If so, pull your wheels, dismount your tires, and get the water out of your rims before they rot from the inside out. Use a compressor to blow water out of the folds in the rim too.

-Kurt

1989Pre 05-02-23 10:26 AM


Originally Posted by cudak888 (Post 22877777)
Could that water have had any salt in it from any nearby water mass?

If so, pull your wheels, dismount your tires, and get the water out of your rims before they rot from the inside out. Use a compressor to blow water out of the folds in the rim too.

-Kurt

Thanks for this advice. We are about seven miles up the river, so we are tidal, but fresh water. Do you think I jeopardized the electrical system on the bike? (the front lamp did not go under water).

cudak888 05-02-23 10:28 AM


Originally Posted by 1989Pre (Post 22877793)
Thanks for this advice. We are about seven miles up the river, so we are tidal, but fresh water. Do you think I jeopardized the electrical system on the bike? (the front lamp did not go under water).

How far was the bike itself submerged? Not the entire 33", was it?

If so, this might warrant Rick Smith to come out of retirement and write one more Yehuda Moon comic strip :lol:

-Kurt

eatontkd 05-02-23 10:46 AM

1953 Rudge... a bit modernized...
Before
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...92527972c5.jpg
After...
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4cdfe73b65.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...08abfa8681.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a69546f936.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0f00b6255c.jpg

1989Pre 05-02-23 10:55 AM

"The water was thirty-three inches deep when I got off my Rudge and turned it back around."

I do not know who Rick Smith is. I tried that link but was warned of an insecure connection, so did not continue.

cudak888 05-02-23 11:00 AM


Originally Posted by 1989Pre (Post 22877836)
"The water was thirty-three inches deep when I got off my Rudge and turned it back around."

I do not know who Rick Smith is. I tried that link but was warned of an insecure connection, so did not continue.

Gotcha. I had assumed you might have been partially submerged and noted 33" from a trailside depth scale. Looks as if your Rudge is an honorary submarine.

Most of the wiring on these bikes is stainless and copper, so I'd shoot it with some electrical cleaner and cross my fingers.

Rick Smith is the author of Yehuda Moon and the Kickstand Cyclery comic strip. The titular character is the sort who rides upright bars, 3-speeds, and wears a rain cape lest he doesn't have a day when he's commuting on a bike. Yehuda riding into a bike-swallowing pond on his commute is something I'd expect straight out of that strip.

-Kurt

1989Pre 05-02-23 11:35 AM


Originally Posted by cudak888 (Post 22877839)
Gotcha. I had assumed you might have been partially submerged and noted 33" from a trailside depth scale. Looks as if your Rudge is an honorary submarine.

Most of the wiring on these bikes is stainless and copper, so I'd shoot it with some electrical cleaner and cross my fingers.

Rick Smith is the author of Yehuda Moon and the Kickstand Cyclery comic strip. The titular character is the sort who rides upright bars, 3-speeds, and wears a rain cape lest he doesn't have a day when he's commuting on a bike. Yehuda riding into a bike-swallowing pond on his commute is something I'd expect straight out of that strip.

-Kurt

Thanks again. I did spy my Carradice bag 1/4 full of water one hour after I returned! It's drying out nicely, now. I checked out a few of Mr. Smith's comic strips, and although they have a lack of joy, there is a certain truth to them. I hope it never floods like this again, because I am not eager to damage or compromise my bicycle(s).. I had gone about 75 feet into the water, and the puddle was about 300 feet long.

Ged117 05-02-23 01:39 PM

Folks,

I have an acquaintance with a '50s Roadster in Toronto, and he's looking for rod brake wheels/rims (26"). I thought they were all 28", but I stand to be corrected. I thought this would be the best place to ask.

cudak888 05-02-23 01:52 PM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 22878010)
I have an acquaintance with a '50s Roadster in Toronto, and he's looking for rod brake wheels/rims (26"). I thought they were all 28", but I stand to be corrected. I thought this would be the best place to ask.

Try the Raleigh Roadsters Facebook group too. Whatever you do, steer clear of those reproductions that are on eBay from the UK. The braking area is wobbly and they're impossible to true.

-Kurt

thumpism 05-02-23 05:49 PM

Took the Sports for a ride today for the first time in a looongg time, just three miles around the neighborhood but it's been over a year since I got severely distracted by house projects. Different saddle and stem/bar combo needed and they're waiting in the wings but it'll be a while before any bike work takes place.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...13e42f0369.jpg

1989Pre 05-03-23 05:33 AM


Originally Posted by cudak888 (Post 22877839)
Most of the wiring on these bikes is stainless and copper, so I'd shoot it with some electrical cleaner and cross my fingers.-Kurt

The Dynohub system works just fine. I just wanted to give an update, and a salute to Sturmey designers.

cudak888 05-03-23 04:04 PM


Originally Posted by 1989Pre (Post 22878532)
The Dynohub system works just fine. I just wanted to give an update, and a salute to Sturmey designers.

Had no question that the Dynohub would make it out - those things will survive any apocalypse.

-Kurt

Elddir_Mot 05-03-23 04:26 PM

Hey all, I was wondering if there's a specific year where the quality of builds starts dropping?

I'm looking at two Raleigh Sports, one '71 and one '67 (identified from decals - thanks to The Headbadge page on Raleigh Sports DL-22: Visual ID/Decal Identification, I'd link if I could! ) and was wondering if, all else being equal, the '67 would be a better bike. Neither seller has the serial number listed so I don't know which location the bikes came out of.

Thanks in advance, I'm very much a novice who happened to fall down the Raleigh rabbit hole :lol:

Elddir_Mot 05-03-23 04:30 PM

Also, I was thinking of posting the info/ pics (once I hit 10 posts) to get people's opinions on which is the better option; would something like that go in the Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals ?

nlerner 05-03-23 05:15 PM


Originally Posted by Elddir_Mot (Post 22879086)
Hey all, I was wondering if there's a specific year where the quality of builds starts dropping?

I'm looking at two Raleigh Sports, one '71 and one '67 (identified from decals - thanks to The Headbadge page on Raleigh Sports DL-22: Visual ID/Decal Identification, I'd link if I could! ) and was wondering if, all else being equal, the '67 would be a better bike. Neither seller has the serial number listed so I don't know which location the bikes came out of.

Thanks in advance, I'm very much a novice who happened to fall down the Raleigh rabbit hole :lol:

I donít think youíll see much difference between those model years. More distinct differences are a decade or more apart, e.g., some say the quality of chrome really fell off after the 1950s.

cudak888 05-03-23 08:48 PM

Any chance someone might have one of these early, serrated Sturmey-Archer washers that they can spare?

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...79047afc76.jpg


-Kurt

1989Pre 05-04-23 04:31 AM


Originally Posted by Elddir_Mot (Post 22879091)
Also, I was thinking of posting the info/ pics (once I hit 10 posts) to get people's opinions on which is the better option; would something like that go in the Classic and Vintage Bicycles: Whats it Worth? Appraisals ?

Hello and welcome to 3-speed land! I am no expert, but the way I understand it is that Raleigh never did lower their design or production standards. Depending on condition, either of these two bikes would be just as good, and give a comparable ride. Myself, I usually go for the older bikes if I can, but that is just my taste. Yours may differ. In regard to your second question, I would post photos here, at this sub-forum, rather than at Appraisals, because you may be looking for specific information to get the bike on the road and optimize its function. These are great bikes. Where will you be riding?

thumpism 05-04-23 09:33 AM

Twenty for ninety in NY. I'd buy it.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...57641332712588

https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...TQ&oe=6459521D

SirMike1983 05-04-23 02:24 PM

Looking for the complete headset (crown race, both frame cups, and the wide top race nut - don't need bearing balls or lamp bracket or lock nut) for a post-war Raleigh Sports/Superbe/Lenton. I rebuilt a 1953 Lenton hoping there was enough life left in the headset, but am finding the steering wants to lock straight-on. I figure I should just replace the whole headset at this point rather than fool around. Let me know if you want to sell or trade for other parts I might have. Thanks.

Elddir_Mot 05-04-23 05:25 PM

Thanks 1989Pre & nlerner ! Pre, Iíll mostly be riding on local streets for short errands (Iím in Watertown, about 20 min outside Boston) and casual rides by the river with my 5yrold who just got her first bike! The classic puttering about town basically.

Here are the two bikes Iím debating between:

Option 1:

$50, 1968 (from what I can tell by the decals/hub)
Frame looks to be in good condition (though pic quality is iffy so who knows). The description is literally just ďRaleigh 3 speed bikeĒ. Thatís it. Seller doesnít have much info other than it was his auntís old bike and she kept it clean. He doesnít know frame size, but either the 21Ē or 19.5Ē would work for me (5í5Ē with a 30Ē inseam). Seat looks like itís not original, maybe?



I wish I could post pics, but maybe this is enough info for someone with pic privileges to find it: Itís on FB marketplace, under:

Antique Raleigh 3 speed bike

$50 / Category: Hobbies / Listed 6 weeks ago in Mattapoisett, MA

If you go to Facebook dot com and add /marketplace/item/248278167554540/ the listing should come up.







Option 2:

Craigslist, $150, 1971. Way more description:

For sale: A Raleigh Step-Through bicycle manufactured in England in January 1971 complete with the leather Brooks seat upgrade. Fully reconditioned and ready for a summer of riding fun. Bike has been thoroughly cleaned and serviced. It has new tubes, tires, brake pads and period correct air pump. The three speed hub is working well and the bike is ready for your next adventure.



Listed in Boston Craigslist under

Vintage 1971 Raleigh Sports Step Through 3 Speed bicycle - $150(Cumberland)



Obviously 3x the price of the 1968 but itís ready to ride, and between the new tubes/tires/brake pads probably come close to making up the $100 difference.





Öso yeah, Iím pretty torn. Theyíre both bronze green too, so I canít even be shallow and decide solely on paint color lol. If it were up to yíall, what option would you go with?

JohnDThompson 05-04-23 05:30 PM


Originally Posted by SirMike1983 (Post 22880038)
Looking for the complete headset (crown race, both frame cups, and the wide top race nut - don't need bearing balls or lamp bracket or lock nut) for a post-war Raleigh Sports/Superbe/Lenton. I rebuilt a 1953 Lenton hoping there was enough life left in the headset, but am finding the steering wants to lock straight-on. I figure I should just replace the whole headset at this point rather than fool around. Let me know if you want to sell or trade for other parts I might have. Thanks.

Is this for a 26tpi steer tube?

SirMike1983 05-04-23 07:07 PM


Originally Posted by JohnDThompson (Post 22880271)
Is this for a 26tpi steer tube?

Yes - 26tpi Raleigh.


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