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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

dweenk 11-01-14 01:25 PM

What imabeliever1 said.

Sixty Fiver 11-01-14 01:48 PM


Originally Posted by BGBeck (Post 17268433)
Well I finally have something relevant add to this thread. My 1976 Raleigh Sports. New tires/tubes so far. Rides nicely except for a skip or bump when pedaling. With the right pedal at 6 o'clock, there's a skip or bump as the left pedal crosses 12 o'clock. Not sure if it's the hub or BB. Any ideas?

Check your cotters, the crank arms do look like they are out of phase.

Sixty Fiver 11-01-14 01:50 PM


Originally Posted by auchencrow (Post 17208413)
If you're parking an English 3-speed, make sure the oil port is at 12:00, and you won't have to worry about the cap.
Besides, it wouldn't be English if it didn't leak oil.

Or you are riding an older Harley Davidson...

BGBeck 11-01-14 02:11 PM

Thank you gentlemen I'll check them out. FWIW while I had the rear wheel off, I checked the rear sprocket and it's a 20 tooth.

BGBeck 11-01-14 03:10 PM

Well iamabeliever1 has a good eye. Cotter in backwards? A new BB? Part it out and find another one? (Why didn't I notice this when I bought it? Ebay) :notamused:

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...9401930001.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...9701960001.jpg
Left
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...9501940001.jpg
Right
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...9601950001.jpg

noglider 11-01-14 04:45 PM

Take the cotters out and inspect them. One may be notched. Your bike is still worth keeping.

Sixty Fiver 11-01-14 05:06 PM


Originally Posted by BGBeck (Post 17268774)
Well iamabeliever1 has a good eye. Cotter in backwards? A new BB? Part it out and find another one? (Why didn't I notice this when I bought it? Ebay) http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m...9501940001.jpg :notamused:

The cotters should be opposite, can see that the non drive cotter is also set deeper and could be an indication of it being worn or that it was not dressed properly before it was installed.

Bandera 11-01-14 05:21 PM


Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 17268982)
The cotters should be opposite, can see that the non drive cotter is also set deeper and could be an indication of it being worn or that it was not dressed properly before it was installed.

Exactly.
While the cotters are out remove the crankarms to overhaul the BB w/ fresh grease.

jjhabbs 11-01-14 06:21 PM

I finally started to clean up and overhaul mine. Can someone tell me how to date this thing. Here is a pic of the serial number. Thanks!

http://i1163.photobucket.com/albums/...ps89a0c9f7.jpg
http://i1163.photobucket.com/albums/...ps58586f72.jpg
http://i1163.photobucket.com/albums/...psd741d3db.jpg

jjhabbs 11-01-14 06:35 PM

It may be a 75? what do you think

BGBeck 11-02-14 09:56 AM


Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 17268982)
The cotters should be opposite, can see that the non drive cotter is also set deeper and could be an indication of it being worn or that it was not dressed properly before it was installed.

Sixty Fiver, please explain what you mean by "...should be opposite..." for this poor novice.

auchencrow 11-03-14 06:48 AM


Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 17268982)
The cotters should be opposite, can see that the non drive cotter is also set deeper and could be an indication of it being worn or that it was not dressed properly before it was installed.

+1 . @BGBeck - Cotters are to be installed in opposing directions from each other- i.e., the one on the right side arm points forward while the one on the left points rearward. Otherwise, you end up with cranks that are about 10 deg off-parallel with each other. (As is the case here).

Sixty is also right in asserting that the cotter pictured is set too deeply from being worn or dressed improperly - either that, or it may be an undersized (French/Italian) cotter. - In either case, it needs to be replaced.

blart 11-03-14 07:20 AM

I spotted a pair of humbers at an antique store that were owned by one of our extremely wealthy local families. They're asking quite a bit of money but I'm intrigued by them. I can go snap some pics if anyone is knowledgeable about them or curious.

Salubrious 11-03-14 12:42 PM

Curious- sure!!

BGBeck 11-03-14 01:02 PM

Many thanks for the clarification. :thumb:

Grand Bois 11-03-14 01:12 PM

Where did you get that avatar?

BGBeck 11-03-14 04:24 PM


Originally Posted by Grand Bois (Post 17273175)
Where did you get that avatar?

Me? It's a birthday card I picked up in the market a few years ago.

arex 11-05-14 08:12 PM

I've finished doing most of the prep work on my Sports frame, and I'm going to be powdercoating it soon (as close to the original green as I can). However, before I can do so, I need to remove the head badge. What's the best way to pop those little rivets without damaging the badge?

PedalTraveler 11-05-14 08:26 PM


Originally Posted by arex (Post 17280355)
I've finished doing most of the prep work on my Sports frame, and I'm going to be powdercoating it soon (as close to the original green as I can). However, before I can do so, I need to remove the head badge. What's the best way to pop those little rivets without damaging the badge?

A small sharp chisel on the portion of the rivet inside the headtube usually works well for me. No drills and nothing coming near the badge itself.

PedalTraveler 11-05-14 08:42 PM

A little before and after on my '56 Rudge, it was a really fun project. I was quite glad to find a proper fitting 23" frame The nasty plastic fenders had to go, luckily I had some appropriate oldies for it. All I have left is wiring the light up again.


http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1075a84b.jpg


A test ride pre-fendering during nicer weather

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/...ps385007b8.jpg


http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7e4403fb.jpg


http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/...psd4c4f200.jpg

noglider 11-05-14 09:29 PM

Somewhere you can find my before and after pictures of my 1962 Rudge. I had always wanted a Rudge. It's my favorite 3-speed. Mine was about as crusty as yours. Nice work there.

arex 11-05-14 10:26 PM


Originally Posted by PedalTraveler (Post 17280397)
A small sharp chisel on the portion of the rivet inside the headtube usually works well for me. No drills and nothing coming near the badge itself.

Kind of what I was thinking, but I didn't know how hard the rivets are. Thank you.

fixed1313 11-06-14 12:14 AM

I hope this is alright with you all and I know some people don't like Facebook but I happen to like it as a brainless time killer so here goes.................. I had searched several times in the past for a 3 speed page or group and always came up with nothing so I figured it was time to make one. Basically an "anything you want to post about 3 speeds and English bikes" place. Come by and check it out, maybe it will amount to something and maybe not.

If this is not okay please ignore this post and I won't mention it again.

https://www.facebook.com/EnglishBikes

adventurepdx 11-06-14 12:05 PM


Originally Posted by PedalTraveler (Post 17280437)
A little before and after on my '56 Rudge, it was a really fun project. I was quite glad to find a proper fitting 23" frame The nasty plastic fenders had to go, luckily I had some appropriate oldies for it. All I have left is wiring the light up again.

Nice one! I know what you mean about the 23" frame. I had a '53 Rudge that I just sold. Loved the bike, but it was just too small for me at 21".

arex 11-07-14 12:49 AM


Originally Posted by PedalTraveler (Post 17280397)
A small sharp chisel on the portion of the rivet inside the headtube usually works well for me. No drills and nothing coming near the badge itself.

I rustled up a small wood gouge, but there wasn't enough rivet sticking through the tube to get a bite on. However, I remembered I had a small "roto-tool" I got at Harbor Freight several years ago, and I chucked a very small ball burr in it. I was able to, very carefully, grind off the heads of the soft aluminum rivets with only a couple minor nicks in the brass. The badge lifted off intact, and I was able to punch the remains of the rivets out of the head tube with a pick.

Now, to powdercoat it.


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